93egSLEEPER

I don't have set plans as to how high I will be revving it. With the cams, intake and header I will be running I expect to make peak power between 8500-9k. I'll rev it til it stops making power and can shift right into the meat of the power again. I'm hoping with the 4.7FD it will allow me to keep revs down, preventing over revving to stay in the power after shifting. Ideally I'm hoping to make the best power 6500-9k, and with my tranny/FD setup I wont ever drop out of that RPM range on 22" slicks. Top of 4th should be 105-110ish..which I'm hoping to trap in the 1/4. I've done some calculating to try and hit it that way. I just hope I'm right.

Like I've said before I have done TONS or reading, researching and number crunching to build this motor a specific way and get everything from power, to weight, to gearing to mesh perfectly. If I'm wrong, then back to the drawing board and make some adjustments. I'm confident I'm going to hit the nail on the head.

DDTECH

Who tuned your car?..

Most B20's will take sub 20 degrees timing and rich conditions will cause pinging as well.

Sleeves of the b20 have no bearing, what so ever on Rev range.

B20 Sleeves crack because of High load, Low rpm pinging, which is basically caused by **** tunes, incorrectly setup timing, or bad gas, among other things.

B20 sleeves aren't as weak as everyone makes them out to be..

93egSLEEPER

^^^^ I assume that is a reply to someone else? I'm not worried about the sleeves, I will have a good tune put on it. Either James at speedfactory or Richard Todd of Richtuned. If Kaizenspeed was closer I would check them out too...4 hour drive compared to 30 mins from the other 2.

Got my ferrea 6000 exhaust valves in today to go with the brand new OEM intake valves I already had. Should have the keepers tomorrow then I'll be packing up the head and all components and sending it out for some work in the next week or two. After that it's on to the cams.... this top end is the expensive part I've been dreading LOL

DDTECH

It was, it was to the guy who talked about cracking his b20 sleeve.

93egSLEEPER

Did that guy delete something? I figured it was. LOL I was lost.

Should be sending the head out next week. Once I get it back I'll be looking for some cams. You on Facebook Derek? Wanna chat about something real quick if you have time.

DDTECH

I'm on FB, yes.

4Driver

Andy your project are see really good... I am in the process of building a similar engine...

Good luck with your project

93egSLEEPER

I meant last night LOL. No biggie I got a hold of you today.

Thanks

OMG

what headwork

93egSLEEPER

Performance VJ
Ferrea 6000 exhaust valves w/ OEM intake valves (brand new)
Supertech HD springs and retainers (85lb seat pressure)
Spring type LMAs
Supertech keepers
OEM seals
Port clean up (see pics on first page)

OMG

nice, make sure the VJ is from someone that makes power

93egSLEEPER

Got it covered

Runnerdown

Weird intake valves those don't look oem.

93egSLEEPER

I thought that too. I looked up the part number on the bags they came in and everything matches. Measured them w/ a micrometer too. You can see in the pics 14711-PR3-000 which is the part number for b-series vtec intake valves. It has made in japan stamped on it and not made in china so I'm at ease LOL

DDTECH

Yea.

TracerAcer2.2L

I would like to discuss crankshaft dampers real quick. I've been looking into them lately, namely Fluidampr and ATI. After doing much research, it seems the people who support ATI do so because "that's what the pros run", while Fluidampr seems to have technology that really would dampen at all RPMs, and no need to rebuild.

It appears your damper is the viscous type, like the Fluidampr (which I am leaning towards). What led you to that decision?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see the screws in your damper, perhaps it is a rubber type. Still, what led you in your decision?

93egSLEEPER

It was offered to me by a buddy for $60 BNIB. I had to buy one as the short block I bought to start the build did not come with one. I am not 100% set on running it yet, I have seen mixed reviews about it. The bottom end is 100% balanced, so on this particular build I don't think I'll see much advantage one way or another. If this was a high HP turbo build or a build that would see 9k+ all the time it may be a different story. This motor will be babied unless I go to the track, or have someone who wants to play on the freeway

TracerAcer2.2L

$60 is a good steal. Plus it's a B series...They don't have the vibration problems as bad as the H does, I don't think. I will definitely need the insurance, so my search continues lol

In for more pics and tech

maRtyMar

Think I saw a guy make almost 250 using a pr3 cast head and a rocket motorsports valve job. Not even bowl blend or chamber mod. So far I've seen people who make maybe a little more but fully ported head. Anyone else make good power with just a valve job?

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

Shut up

d15Beta

those are Dokuro brand japan replacement valves..

been around bfor chingchongpam brands LOL

93egSLEEPER

I'm in the gathering stage again right now. I will be updating with more parts and building i the near future. Tech talk is always appreciated

My valve job will make power... the guy having it done for me knows his stuff and has put some very impressive numbers down w/ stock port heads. Plus I've been talking w/ Derek @ DDTECH and will have the cams dialed for this build. Basically a custom grind.

LOL

I did some research and I found this out yesterday as well. Quality parts come out of that factory.

DDTECH

lol.. i laughed.

DDTECH

There's nothing "special" about the OMG HOLY GRAIL over hyped rocket motorsports valve job.

Show me a back to back test, track or dyno of a performance valve job vs a performance valve job. You can't, because they haven't done one. Its all smoke and mirrors, one day, people will realize that.


Any PROPER valve job will make power.

egb18c5

93eg, hit up slow sleeper on here. He can guide you in the right direction for cylinder head work