When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys just posting this up to document my build. This is going to be just a fun car to drive, do a little autox and drag racing. Nothing competitive. Looking to make 200-215whp. Let me know if you have any suggestions.
Going into an EM1.
Parts Already Have From Existing Build:
GSR Head Stock Port
97-99 ITR Cams (Changed to Skunk2 Tuner2)
ITR Dual Valve Springs (Changed to Supertech 70lb Springs)
OEM GSR Valves (Changed to Supertech Valves)
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Alpha 70mm TB
DC Sports 3" CAI
Blox 3" Velocity Stack
AEM Dryflow Air Filter
Hytech Replica Header 2.5" Collector (Changed to PLM Replica Hytech Big Tube)
RDX Fuel Injectors
3" 200 Cell Cat (I really hate the smell of exhaust fumes)
3" ebay catback
S4C Transmission
Mfactory LSD (to be installed)
ACT 12lb Flywheel Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
B20Z2 Block
AEM Uego Wideband
To be Tuned on Crome Pro
Planning To Purchase:
YCP 84.5mm Pistons (11.8 compression on GSR head I believe)
Skunk2 Apha Rods
ACL Main, Rod, Thrust bearings
GE Headgasket
GE Vtec Conversion
I would agree on the cams being the limited factor. I would go with skunk2 tuner 2's personally. I've never liked the pro series cams and I enjoy a louder vtec crossover, call me ricer, it's what makes these cars fun.
I would love to get a set of cams but I really don't want to put ~$800-$1,000 into cams and valve springs. If I sold the ITR cams and OEM valve springs total cost for new cams would be $400-600.
From what I've searched in the forums people with similar setup make around 200-215whp. Or do you guys really think with ITR cams that's not achievable? With Skunk2 Pro1s or Skunk2 Tuner2 where would that put me for whp?
I would agree on the cams being the limited factor. I would go with skunk2 tuner 2's personally. I've never liked the pro series cams and I enjoy a louder vtec crossover, call me ricer, it's what makes these cars fun.
Understood. I like the Pro1s better because the larger primaries allow for better torque transition becuse crossover is smoother. I understand the ricer in you.. (I remember I used to like that big crossover, until I found that torque suffered.)
But either way, whether you go Tuner 2 or Pro1, they address what you need more than OEM TypeR.
From my experience itr cams seem to top out at about 190-200whp, keep in mind some dyno'd read high, a high reading dyno means it might make 220whp but trap like it's making 200. I would say pro1's or tuner 2's would put you right around 220whp but there's allot more to it then just part choice. There's tuner capability, how well the engine is assembled, ring gaps, p2w clearance and everything else.
From my experience itr cams seem to top out at about 190-200whp, keep in mind some dyno'd read high, a high reading dyno means it might make 220whp but trap like it's making 200. I would say pro1's or tuner 2's would put you right around 220whp but there's allot more to it then just part choice. There's tuner capability, how well the engine is assembled, ring gaps, p2w clearance and everything else.
Wow sounds like I'll need to get new cams then.
What do you guys recommend for ring gaps and p2w? I'm thinking 1st ring = 0.014", 2nd ring = 0.018", Oil = 0.018" and p2w 0.0015" this is what i've used in the past on an 81.5 and 82mm gsr blocks. Wondering if I need to go bigger on ring gaps because of the larger diameter bore.
I did mine at .016" top and .020" bottom, mostly because my top rings were all at .016" from the start. I think you'll be fine with those gaps.
I went by the Piston manufacturer specifications. Wisecos tend to have a nice card included with them, but that's what I've gone by in my NA assemblies. You may have better answers in the Machining and Engine Assembly Forum.
I have a nearly identical build going into my car this weekend. Excited to swap out the tired B16 for my B20/VTEC. My goal is very similar, hoping to get closer to 230whp once I get aftermarket cams in.
My current setup:
JDM B20B - honed and milled
RS Machine 84mm type r pistons
new B20B rods shot peened
ARP rod bolts
B20 crank polished and balanced
JDM b16a head
3 angle valve job
GSR cams for now
SMSP replica header to 3" Kteller exhaust
3" short ram with stock TB and B16 intake manifold for now
Engine got assembled. Installed Mfactory LSD. Dropped the engine in.
Started up and my Vtec oil line leaked like crazy. Turns out I tightened them way to much and broke them. This was my first time using AN fittings.
Engine break in and afr tune completed. WOT afr is 12.8-13.2 range. Right now I have Vtec at 5200 rpms so the crossover is pretty loud.
I have 160 miles in. Did a compression test with my Harbor Freight tester and got 190 psi on all four. I wonder if this is normal? Maybe I'll do a leak down test.
Next step is to schedule dyno time and see how much power I'm making and fine tune my ignition timing.
I wouldn't worry so much about the comp number especially with a cheaper comp tester. I have two, both fairly cheap and one reads about 30-40 psi lower then the other. As long as they are even I wouldn't sweat it too much. Also cam duration and timing plays a big roll in cranking pressure from the dynamic compression ratio.
Finally tuned it. See the results below. Looks like I have the classic CAI hump at 4500. Not sure how I get the hump at 6000. AFR around 12.5. Vtec at 4600rpm this is where the lines crossed when doing Vtec at 4k and 6k.
Looks like it could rev out a little more if you were going ok with it. Power is good for sure. What header is on it? I’ve seen the tri-y’s all have a dip around 6500-6700 ish some as much as 30whp.
02-03-2019, 02:57 PM
D21x's EM1 B20VTEC Progress Build
