fuzzysig

i mighr have found a way to reflash the 05-up rl wirh j35a8
but i first need to actually upgrade parts
i see some j32 motors built
but not found many j35

what can be done to the motor besides boltons and how agressive can it be built? NA
whats the rpm limit of the j35? csn it be pushed to say 8500-9000rpm


if anyone have any links to j35 build or a magazine or something that would be great

so far im planning to either swap to newer heads with full vtec
or maybe just buy the newer j35 if cheap enough
and maybe in the long run swap a 6 speed transmission into it from 2010 tl sh-awd
i like the rl design. (for people who ask the obvious question why)
im aware that i can simply buy a 2010 tl.
just like i can buy a gsr instead of swapping a gsr motor into ls...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The same things people upgrade with the J32, they do with the J35. It's just a displacement change. As for "bolt ons" that's all they do to those engines due to a lack of inexpensive tuning tools available. most don't delve into the engine like the B-series or K-series unless they plan to FI the engine, or create an entire racecar out of it. About 250-290whp is what most get out of that engine.

If you're trying to do all the bells and whistles you might as well get the 2010 TL and get a 6 spd. Most doing a J-swap have enough invested to perform that swap only and not get fancy.

fuzzysig

i really just want the transmission
and i love high rpm so i would have better luck with 3.5 liter because of the rod stroke rather than 3.7L
can this motor be pushed to 8500-9000 rpm since its belt driven?
im not a big fan of the tl body style and would like to have this with a mugen or a spec kit and a built j35. i love the kb1 design. i think it looks like a tank. it feels like a tank when i drive it. which i cant say about the 2010 tl

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Those engines don't like those rpms at that piston speeds.. Belt driven or not.

k20z1ej1

See Jeff Evans j series a/m integra if you want to see what a built 3.6 (i think) can make - 440whp on a dynapack. His engine wasn't at the very limit, but it was close. And if im not mistaken it was turning over 8500rpm, however, like the Shodan said, thats a very stressful rpm for a j series. Of course, you wouldnt want something like that for street use, but with lower compression, a plenum manifold instead of ITBs and e85 or 93 pump gas, im sure you could have a solid 320-350 whp while remaining streetable. All that said, its alot of work and money.... maybe just enjoy the Rl for what it is, a luxury car

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

One thing Jeff Evans said about the J series is that it was very reliable even how they pushed it. He said the only maintenance they had to do all season and between seasons is change the oil. A 440hp J series is putting 73hp per cylinder Vs a K series at the same hp putting 110hp per cylinder. There is a lot less stress per cylinder than a K series. Then on top of that as long as you build the bottom and top end for high rpms, 8500rpm is no issue. Evans car had inlinepro H beam 3.7 rods, custom forged pistons and you know he would have balanced the rotating assembly. That along with the built head is very reliable for high rpm use.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I say skip the dumb **** and do this:

https://honda-tech.com/articles/this...d-is-for-sale/

fuzzysig

looks nice:0
i want rl though
i love the kb1 styling

GhostAccord

Haven't had it on the dyno yet but I love the throttle response and power output that I feel from a few bolt-ons on my J35Z5 Ridgeline.

6" x 5" K&N cone filter
3.5" custom CAI w/stock MAF and housing
Acura (70mm) Throttle body
Port matched and ported J35 intake manifold
Bisimoto stage 2 cams
RV6-Performance pre-cat delete and J-pipe
Magnaflow high flow 2.5" Cat
Borla 2.5" cat back
Street tuned with KTuner

Going to be taking a road trip this spring to strap it to the dyno. Hoping my trans shytes the bed before that so I can do a TL 6Spd swap.

pfa......








by GhostAccord, on Flickr

fuzzysig

does it trigger your o2 sensors?

GhostAccord

With KTuner I have the ability to disabled the secondary O2 sensors malfunction indicator light. The RV6-P cat delete pipes come with O2 bungs that allows you to run the O2 sensor without disabling them. It pulls them out of the exhaust gas flow.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

To me, it's the above statement that GhostAccord uses that keeps me hovering around your threads, fuzzysig.

I can tell that you've been in this game for a nice bit, and you're testing out a lot of things in different areas in the "grown up" line of Hondas/Acuras.

But I think a continual pattern that I've noticed in your threads is that you believe that you can still manipulate these lines of engines as though it were like the 90's: wire bypassers, simple ECU solutions (flashed programs), and bolt-on products and just allow the engine to increase power without triggering any emissions codes or software.

Unfortunately for you, these particular lines of engines and vehicles require a lot more investment than what you maybe typically used to, and that involves all aspects of that particular chassis and performance system. Everything from intakes, exhausts, anything that deals with emissions in any way shape or form, cannot simply just be "flashed" or hardwire bypassed or anything of that nature any longer. You seriously have to get your software/hardware game on with resources other than yourself in order to get a lot of these results that you were seeking after. That means going back to the roots of establishing relationships with shops, and not just specific questions for a forum to answer by consensus

By 2004, manufacturers took a serious look at the amount of carbon emissions and other factors that they're contributing to the environment. Honda especially started to invest more in this, by way of using engine management, CAM-BUS integration, and ECU systems that simply cannot be hardware bypassed, and therefore,have to use real programming and real solutions in order to allow for these engines to perform in the same style that you're used to from the B series and even k series platforms.

I get it. You're still coming back into the game and learning these new areas. I'm no different in the Ford performance world. But that also means that you have to do a bit more than what you're used to by way of gathering the correct resources, and sadly, that means in many cases, you're going to have to actually invest and pay for these services, as the people that are now involved have to invest in hundreds of thousands in new equipment, R&D, and testing to make sure that these tunes actually work. They have resources that you simply cannot just buy or use at your local store to create a "home-brew" styled work-around to save a few dollars (and yes, I realize hundreds of dollars if not more are on the line, here).
I'm not saying you shouldn't try, its just that the investment time that you'd expect us to have to understand in-depth about what it takes to get your needs met, is something the newer cars and their enthusiasts won't put in anymore. In some cases, it's better to just get that product for your solution, and stop asking the "why" & "How". Because, well, you can't give gold nuggets of information away, and second, no one takes the time to make a write-up or "how-to" for that same solution. I agree, it sucks ***..

Also remember, a lot of consumer who use this equipment get the pros to work on them to ensure reliable and repeatable results, and in most instances do not have the time to head to the bonyard, "jerry-rig" or learn the entire infrastructure from scratch to save themselves that money like we used to do.. It's much more complicated than it had been before. Much more complicated.

Fewer of the people on this forum are in the same class of needs that you're looking for. In many cases, they simply just take the car as it is, perform a few tweaks, and go on about their day, because of the fact that there is so much investment involved in order to get that "perfect" combination that you're looking for. Comfort, performance, reliability, all in one chassis (almost V.I.P. style from the mid 2000s) are a serious price now. So much so, that by the time you finish your creation, a new platform with everything you wanted from the factory with warranty has already been released and sold on the streets, as cars are now considered more "disposable" than ever. .

I just don't want you to get too wrapped up in so many different questions, (not seeing over the trees to get through the forest) that you can't be able to understand that you're going to have to go outside the normal "boxes" of this forum, and get creative or find your own sources. Because honestly, the information you're looking for just isn't here like it was before. Not since the Amazonifcation of consumerism emerged about 6 years ago.

I'​m not at all ​​​​​​ranting, I'm just trying to prevent you from becoming frustrated by continually asking some seriously exotic questions, and not getting anywhere.

keep the faith.

GhostAccord

Gotta pay to play

After all of my street tuning, my secondary O2 sensors don't even require disabling. My (foot off the throttle) MPG is actually better than it was before all the upgrades. As TheShodan mentions, tuning hardware and software is essential, and having someone who knows how to work it is key, there are no shortcuts on these engines.

fuzzysig

im very new to the k and j series you re right
i stuck around in b land as long as i could( and probably will buy another one some day) i still love the sound of stock b18c5
im leaning still so some questions might sound easy to me but complicated to someone who already knows about these engines
I usually dont stop until i tried everything. then take a break and see if theres anything else i can do

im still trying different ways to integrate aftermarket stereo in the RL and learning more possible ways to do so
i did already have a working indash in mine but it needed some cutting and soldering the circuit board to make it work to retain the climate controls

i mean after reading and searching for few months i built a rod and piston balancing rig myself for big and small end and with piston then confirmed it at the machine shop was within half a gram on all 4 big and small end with pistons mounted
car made great numbers on the dyno and then with SC after i sold it
2 harbor freight digital scales and some brackets... until i got consistent results.


i bought the tools from a well known shop in russia( hes a distributor for the bitedit and pcm flash)
and he tuned a few of the j35s mostly with basic boltons and one or two boosted j35 in the kb1 legends but he had to use the pcmflash and a piggyback for turbo
he said that kit will tune NA car because theres no way to replace stock map sensor just yet but hes working on that and adding a datalogger to the bit edit software
he also hooked me up with stock bins and has tuned files for whatever car i need if i cant figure it out myself
spent about 1200 bucks on the kit only thing i need is a way to datalog from obd2 port with stock widebands on RL im still searching for a good dongle to get
i have the kline and can bus pack
problem is i keep getting cars that suck as far as aftermarket support lol
RL
and s2000 which doesnt suck as bad as RL lol but ap1 cant be flashed besides the unicorn oki chip


i dont know if you guys seen it (im assuming you did)
but if not check out here http://ecutools.eu/chip-tuning/ thats the kit i got