Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

what if his fuel map has a nasty hole?

rd91sib18c5r

Lol bwahahahaha

mikeakap

Im either gonna do b20v or d16z6. I don't really care if its n/a or boost i just want a fast as hell build for around 5 or less.

mikeakap

D16 would be the boosted choice obviously.

SpeedwaySlick

Yeah don't boost a b20. Sleeves are too thin compared to the b18a/b.

I've never had a vtec engine, but if you are wanting to go NA, want to womp on an SRT4, and are willing to pay up to 5K, why wouldn't you go with an h2b instead of a d16?

OneBadTurboCRV

^^^ Here we go again. Fellow Hoosier - stop posting misinformation. ^^^

soupE__

seriously

SpeedwaySlick

You can make more power on a boosted stock b18a/b than a boosted stock b20.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

that's what his dyno read ( I know for a fact it reads "high"). don't know the rest. he was happy. What's the problem with my statement here. Can you elaborate more please?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Well I mean the guy said he has a 5 grand budget and you suggested a build that doesnt even break the 200hp barrier, he would be better off just swapping in a B18C5 or something for that price.

mikeakap

I don't want to boost anything other than d16. It's either d16 or a bad *** all motor. Pretty much let me rephrase my question. What all motor engine should I build for 5k. Or would i be better with a d16 turbo.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

B20, in whatever style you want, you dont go small displacement when building a NA car.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Also...not sure if you could squeeze a K swap in there for 5 grand either, but a K24 would probably be more ideal.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I see. Again, you're going by a power/$ perspective. Something I've never done. I'm sure you can get 98+ Spec Type R engines for $5K, but just for about that much.. Through H-motors.

slowsleeper

^^ this would be my 1st option, Greg's been around a while and knows whats going on.

Shoot, I just did a 240 whp 82X89 LS/V 91 octane build and it wasn't near 5k lol.

DA93teg87

If you want fast n/a...better look into spending around 3k in the head alone.

Good port job ~ 1k
Bigger cam - between $400-$700
Bigger cam = aftermarket valvetrain ~$800
then need a bigger intake and throttle body ~$500

Power is all in the head, n/a isn't cheap

Then the block...
Rod/piston combo ~$700 depends how cheap you want
Acl bearings $130
Arp head studs $110
Headgasket $100
all new seals/gaskets ~$200
aftermarket clutch/flywheel ~$600 (need to put the power down)
I can keep going on, then even the price for labor to get it all put together.

Plain and simple a fast n/a car can't be had for $5k starting from a scratch.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Wait...98+ type r motor for 5k? I was going to buy one last year for 2500 cash from a local dealer. Fully assembled with the harness and ecu. Where are you getting 5k from?

hondasdohc

I mean if he wants fast a hell than sure get a ls or ls-v and boost it cheap, and easiest swap to do on any honda civic/integra/crx/delsol for under 5k guaranteed. But if you want an all motor beast H2b is always a great choice and also b20v the only two that actually have some type of ***** on owning the road besides K series. B20v is still under 5k and h2b is closer to 5k so think and choose wisely.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

I think you guys budget poorly, because I can think of a million different combinations that yield great power for 5 grand.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Don't know where you're getting $2500 from. that's FAR from common in most states. Hope that "local" dealer is legitimate. j/k

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again, you're looking at just power level.. not QUALITY builds.

hondasdohc

I mean i'm a budget kind of guy i build my f22a1 block for $300 bucks it has f20b pistons all new bearings and seals and my f20b head i had slapped on. Total money spent on my g22vtec was $400. I had bought my shell for $400 and $69 for the h22 eg mounts and $70 for 93 integra axles. I had a full f20b before in it but i have a g22 now. Talk about budget it's cheap but fast. Did it all my self for free but lost some skin, and some patience lol.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

With all due respect, your idea of a "quality" build is putting overpriced brand name parts on a car that may or may not make less power then a competitor product that is designed strictly for performance for the sake of "class, style, and a tribute to a fantastic company for over 30 years of hand made Japanese development" and just dont see it the way you do. I see...a Honda civic, a throw away economy car that has a great aftermarket if you enjoy tinkering with gokart motors to go fast and have fun in. And while I can appreciate your point of view I just always give my opinion from the point of getting the most out of your money for raw unyielding power.

And yes I know 2500 probably seems a bit low, after some research on these insanely overpriced motors, but I assure you it was quite real.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

and trust me the last thing I want to do is argue with shodan, because hes probably one of the last remaining smart people on this board I actually respect when he makes a post about something

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Oh, stop it.. I just posted a perfectly good engine build not 4 posts ago that didn't fall into that same category that you just stated, in a way that even YOU wouldn't get bent-outta-shape over, which did not use my specific brand of parts components; for the simple fact that MY tastes don't equate everyones. I posted that based upon MY opinion and experience. I know that not everyone can digest it, Hence why I didn't suggest something that I would do to equate to something the OP would be able to do.

Now you're just picking a fight to pick a fight in the name of economics...Don't do that.. don't stoop to that level. we're just talking here.. my goodness..

Now let's be done with this, and let the young guy do what he plans to do and be cool again. whadoyasay?