Corksil

Hey guys I am installing a few gauges in my car and I need to program the warning indicator set points and configuration before I can install the gauges where I won't be able to easily access them for programming.

This should be a very simple task for you guys - all of this info is available via my s300 but I haven't driven around enough staring at the laptop to know quite what's what.

Setup is a b20v with I/H/E and that's about it.

Please copy paste this into your post or quote me and fill in the blanks. Much appreciated.

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Normal oil operating temp ____
Hot but not catastrophic engine failure oil temp _____
Surface of the sun, engine is about to melt down oil temp ____

Normal oil pressure ____
Dangerously high oil pressure ____
Dangerously low oil pressure ____

Normal coolant temp ____
Dangerously high coolant temp ____

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Corksil

92civiceg9gsr

Normal oil temp. Around 200*F
Hot oil temp. Around 250*F
Melt down oil temp. Over 300*F

Oil pressure. 25psi-100psi
Low oil pressure. Under 20psi
Extremely high oil pressure shouldn't be a concern.

Coolant up to around 225*F is normal.
Coolant above 240*F is getting too hot.

DDTECH

I dont know the oil temp off the top of my head..

But the above numbers are off pretty badly.

Stock oil psi that is acceptable is 8-12psi via the switch. Normally with built motors this can change depending on bearing clearences and if you shim the oil pump. My built motor idles pretty strongly @ 20psi when operating temp is reached. The oil light, will come on, with oil psi under 5psi.

Normally 10-95psi is the norm of oil pressure.. My gf's stock gsr does around 8-10psi @ idle, and around 80-85 @ wot.
My built motor for comparsion is 20-25 @ idle and 90-95 psi @ wot.. I do shim the oil pump as well.

As for coolant, stock thermostats are 170-180,mugen/spoon's can be got @ 160's, normal operation temps are 170-190, some highly built boosted cars will see 200-210, anything above 220 is overheating..

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

98 integra service manual:

engine oil at 176F
at idle minimum 10PSI
at 3000 rpm minimum 50psi

coolant
thermostat starts to open 169-176F
fully open 194F
radiator fan turns on at 196-203F

your coolant shouldnt go above 206F
neither should your oil

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

My oil psi is at 70 at 3000rpm
And 20 or so at idle

Corksil

Thanks and bump

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Corksil

Thanks and bump. Programming my gauges tonight hopefully

Corksil

How do these numbers look here? This is what I plan on going with.

Normal oil operating temp 170-200
Hot but not catastrophic engine failure oil temp 230
Surface of the sun, engine is about to melt down oil temp 260

Normal oil pressure 15-20 at idle add around 10 psi per 1000 rpms usually
Dangerously high oil pressure over 100 psi
Dangerously low oil pressure under 10 psi at idle

Normal coolant temp 170-200
Dangerously high coolant temp over 220

Corksil

No I have not shimmed my oil pump or anything like that.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

I think AllMotor has it right. I'd maybe bump the coolant range to 170-190 instead. On my ECU VTEC is set to come online around 160 and ECT adjustments to fuel and ignition go to zero between 170 and 177. I run about 190 when everything is warmed up, and a limp mode of sorts happens at 220. So full operating range is 177-190 on my tune.

Keep in mind that pure water boils at 212, so even with antifreeze in, engine coolant is VERY close to boiling at 220.

Corksil

Excellent feedback. I'll look at the settings in my s300 before I decide on the final numbers.

It really helps to hear feedback before I set this isht up, because once I mount all the gauges it will be a royal PITA to get them back out so I can re-program.

Appreciate the help, peeps.

Corksil

not sure if good thing or bad thing i am awared on both images.

brb trying not to blow the welds on my intake manifold. you've seen how i drive, kid, i'd blow myself to pieces.

and yes i'll have the tuna even though i'm aware that no one here likes the tuna.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Lol
Wonder if the manifold was somehow connected to the floorboard

Corksil

yeah man they are all interconnected. That's why I need to monitor my standalone fuel management system with not a bad way to spend ten grand and direct port nitrous injection because TOO SOON JUNIOR! and had me? You had ME? You never had me, and you never had your CAR!

But let's stay on topic here plz.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i dont really know what else you need?

u go above normal operating temps you should be worried

its not like honda just randomly selected those and was like yea it can relally go to 300F but lets just put it at 200 for fun.

early warning is better than late so set them accordingly

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

False.
This is why coolant systems are pressurized, it raises the boiling point of the coolant.

With that said if your coolant is at or above 220 it is reason for concern. 230 and I would be pulling over with the heat on high.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Of course it's pressurized, and of course that helps. But 220 is still very close to boiling. What does the pressurization add? It's only 30 or 40 degrees.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

About 50 degrees for the normal radiator cap. So 260 would be where water would boil if it were straight water, so higher with coolant in the system.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

I just checked -- at 16 psi water boils at 252 or so; 40 F more than at atmospheric pressure. Add 15 degrees or so for coolant. Maybe 270 with a normal mix.

OFC you're not going to hit 220 unless the cooling system has failed, in which case the temperature will either climb very quickly or cooling system pressure is already compromised.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. 220 would be reason for concern.

92civiceg9gsr

ALL MOTOR. My numbers are all pretty accurate... as are yours which are pretty close to mine. If you noticed in my first post I used words like "up to" and "around" as I was stating general limits on temps and pressures... where someone would set they're warning lights to come on at. So the way I see it when oil temps are "under" 150*F its too cold to beat on. I want my oil up "around" 200*F before I start turning 8k+. At 250*F oil is approaching too hot but is still fine to drive on. 300*F oil you need to shut the car off. On a 100 degree day water temps can get "up to" 220*F pretty easily with abuse... thus why I said 240*F is overheating. If your oil pressure is "much under" 20 psi you need to keep an eye on things... but I agree with the general rule of 10psi per every 1000rpm. If I was turning a car 8k+ and the oil pressure dropped to 20psi I would want a warning light to come on.