Austinsharp73

So we took our eg hatch with a b18b1 to gridlife this past weekend and experienced some overheating only on track after about 15 minutes of consecutive racing. Let me go over the list of mods to give some background

Eagle rods
Weiso pistons
Engine bored 20 over
81.5mm rings
Cosmetic head gasket
Decked head and block
New timing belt/water pump

No head work done besides being cleaned up.

We also have a mishimoto radiator with a hardwired fan that is always on while on track. During our racing we found the hoses bulging after a session, resolved by putting a lower PSI rad cap on. However still overheated. Then, made some ducting out of cardboard and still overheated.

One of the session, the lower radiator hose was cold, so we slapped a new OE tstat in and prayed it would fix it, but nope.

I should also add that after every session, we would have a lot of air on the coolant even after burping for well over an hour, and also would have an over flowing overflow tank. So we thought the head gasker was bad, compression test read 150psi on all four cylinders, and the block test passed. Unsure where else to look to determine how fo fix this.

The car can be driven around town with beating with zero issues. Only on track for 15-20 minutes of constant redlines/downshifts.

If i missed anything important, dont hesitate to ask. Need to get this resolved before next track day.

BoostHatchFreak

what water pump did you use ls or gsr? id use a gsr so no clavation

maxwellmercer

Did you see if the radiator is clogged or something of that sort? Was the thermostat OEM Honda or OE autozone crap? Leave the fan circuit as is, as long as the switch/relay/etc are working properly it can keep up without issue. What are you running for liquid? (50/50, water, etc)

Austinsharp73

We used an autozone tstat. Used water and water wettee. And we have a custom harness, thats why we have a switch for the fan

Austinsharp73

Yeah thats what we've been told, but last year we ran an ls pump and never had issue

AllMtrRex

On the same exact build and the engine living at the same rpms for 15 mins?

Replace the aftermarket thermostat or do away with it in general if you are not running OE fan switch, etc.

Austinsharp73

We tracked last year on stock engine and everything, no issue. After engine was properly built is when we had issues. We're gonna throw a GSR water pump and a mishimoto tstat in there to see if it fixes it.

AllMtrRex

The stock LS waterpump was designed for stock LS rpm's. The newer setup is probably seeing higher rpm's for a period of time. The Vtec waterpump was designed with a larger pump gear that would actually turn slower than the LS pump gear as higher RPM's and prevent cavitation. However, if you are not revving this new setup much higher than stock LS, your problem lies elsewhere.