Vowels771

Okay so I have an 88 crx with a b16a2 from a 97 I believe I recently redid the head gasket and top end with new valve stem seals valve job which the only reason I did a valve job was because after cleaning and grinding I was still able to get bubbles if I put soapy water on the valve and blow air up behind the valve (still had bubbles when I checked for my own curiosity after the valve job) but machine shop assured me it was solid . I also did a very minor port and polish on the intake and exhaust side as well as port Polish on the intake manifold as well to match the head. I didn't do the bottom end because there was almost no miles on the motor but it was smoking on the decel side and the cross hatching in the cylinders was awesome and had even compression numbers across all 4 but cylinder 2 and 3 had very very minor pitting from sitting with the vales open I'm assuming regardless everything back together fires up awesome but I have an idle hunt 1000 to 2200.. Couldn't figure it out so I took it home from my shop.. Power was amazing way more then before .. After hours and hours I get the idle hunt taken care off cleaned iacv fitv new map sensor. I was very confused on my vacuum lines but I've since learner I only need the map sensor the FTP and the dashpod and adjusted TPS idle hunt finally finally gone but now it's idling at 2200 again hours of screwing around someone tells me to remove the dizzy bolts and turn it clock wise to see what happens.. Well about an inch and a half past maximum the idle comes down to normal doesn't seem to be running rough or anything but I won't drive it or Rev it that far back so having enough of this I put dizzy back to my original mark and park it.. I left it for a day I go out fire it up to move it and all of a sudden the idle dropped to 13 1400 so now I'm royally confused and just at my wits end

TPS set to. 45 and goes it 4.5 at WOT anyone have any freaking idea what I'm missing? Anything I'm desperate and I know if I take it to someone I'll have a 500$ bill and still won't be fixed

Any help any ideas or hell any mods? To fix this?
Thank you!

Addition I have no fired it up since to see if it returned to the 2200 or if it stayed lower
Also I have opened the cooling system quite a few times one to clean iacv one for fitv once to try and bleed TB and once more I pulled the TB and replaced idle set screw that was this last time let the car idle for 45 ish with a bleed bowl on top of the rad

Tuopponen

Have you checked the timing?
And you can test the iacv by disconnecting the wire from it, it should idle lower than normally, about 400-600 rpm if everything is OK.
And of course some vacuum leak can also cause this.

Vowels771

Well that's the weird thing the only way I can get it to idle normal is to pull the dizzy bolts and turn it clockwise about an inch or so past bolt max. But when I throw a timing light on it and set the idle is still high.

As for vacuum I have a weird vacuum system 2 round cylinders that have essentially been joined to become one and split off of that hard to explain so I installed a new map sensor and new vacuum line to the map and the line coming off those vacuum cylinder I attached to the FPR. I'm unsure on where there dash pot vacuum line is supposed to go

Tuopponen

I mean the timing of camshafts and crankshaft relation.

Vowels771

Crankshaft timing mark is aligned at whatever it is 10 30 it's lined up with the line on the block which makes the keyhole at 12 o'clock

And both cam shafts are set to as best to "up" as I would assume which is 12 o'clock correct

Vowels771

Hypothetical I order the parts thru the shop I was working for and he ordered the wrong head bolts the first time and it's the same time he ordered the head gasket is it possible that it's a d16y7? (I think that's what the head bolts were) head gasket or is it possible I installed the head gasket upside down or backwards and one of the coolant jackets it's blocked off from the iacv? I do notice that after about 5 minutes idling the car that damn iacv is so hot that if you touch it instant burn

Tuopponen

Cams should not be exatly at 12 o'clock. I suggest that you double check this one.
Google for b16a timing and you will find clear pictures how they should be.

maxwellmercer

You would know immediately when you added fluids if it was upside down or not.

stin1

iTrader: (1)

My b16a2 has a nipple for the cruise control on the back side of the manifold. Every time I work on something I tend to pull it off by accident resulting in a idle around 1300-1400.

wunfstgsr

Your creating a vacuum leak.

OP you need to grab a timing gun and set the ignition timing to spec. If you had a Hondata ECU (S300) you can control/ adjust the IACV very easy.

Vowels771

How do you adjust the iacv?

wunfstgsr

You need a Hondata chipped ECU ( S200- S300 ) , Connect to a lap top and open the Smanager program for Hondata and click the Idle tab on top, then its as easy as moving the bar left or right to lower or raise the idle. This is a good way of knowing the IACV is actually working properly as well.

Vowels771

Yeah I don't have that it's just a b16a vtec obd1 ecu good ol flashing lights for codes... so you're thinking it's my iacv?

wunfstgsr

Yea it could very well be, or a vacuum leak.

Brembomaster

the camshaft pully "up" mark not exactly at 12 o'clock. that should be 11:30 , aglin the mark face to face is correct

Vowels771

What do you mean face to face? And I checked for vacuum leaks all are blocked off except for dash pot FPR and MAP and they're all good

wunfstgsr

Your issue is the IACV!!!, go back and remove it and clean it again or replace it, then use a timing gun and set the ignition timing to spec.