SiR-G DC

^ Wow, Thanks a ton on that.

SiR-G DC

Anyone else have personal experience on break-in's and oil's? Just want to get some different views.

Also, I just might get some Valves/springs/retainers.. Hmmm

SiR-G DC

Update! Here's some pictures (From my phone..Shitty i know but i'll get a camera tomorrow)

Most of my parts should be in tomorrow, I'm hoping.. And praying.. lol

jomama

when i did my b18c1 rebuild, i used straight 30 weight. my understanding for using 30 weight (based on my buddies who helped me who have done a good number of rebuilds) is that:

1. with the new parts in... especially since you're putting in new pistons and rings is that you want something pretty thick to really lube your parts and trap all that metal crap when you break it in. i think i changed out my (30 weight) oil after like 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000 miles or whatever since it was so cheap. i went with cheap wal-mart filters. and then after 1000 miles, i used synthetic.
2. instead of going straight to synthetic, the heavy conventional weight has properties that allowed gaskets to really create seals between parts. synthetic is too thin and doesn't have the same properties.

i babied it for the first 600 miles and made sure i didn't cruise on a constant RPM and made sure i varied the RPMS and throttle so as to "set the rings in" for lack of better words. on the other hand, you'll find people just stomp the F out of their newly rebuilt engines and throw it on the dyno right away to really set those rings in. some of those people are also the same people that say their engines don't lose any oil at all between oil changes. you'll find VERY opposing views the more you read that advocate different theories (like what i've said already ) but sooner or later, you'll just have to pony up and do something that works for you. GL.

SiR-G DC

Thanks, I'm pretty sure i know how I'm going to break it in. Just not sure of the oil's, But from all the forum's and advice.. the 30w seems to be the best choice. Then I'll use the synthetic of my choice after the break in. Thanks again for the words man.

jomama

^ NP. it looks like you're going in the right direction.

SiR-G DC

Thanks for the words

SiR-G DC

Alrightyyyy... Just got my Supertech Valve Seals and ARP Rod/Head/Main studs in today!

I'll get pictures and show you guys more updates tomorrow. Getting ready now for Gasperilla night parade here in Tampa

DC_Legacy

Just a reminder if your using the ARP hardware primarly the Rod & Mainstuds, you'll need to have some machining done to insure proper fitment. The rods will need to be re-sized and the crankmains will need to be alignbored, but IMO honestly these kinds of mods are probably unnecessary unless your racing or building a stronger motor for boost.

SiR-G DC

Yea, I read up on that. My buddy can do that for me

Thanks again! Pictures s0000n

DC_Legacy

Good deal , have fun & be safe at Gasparilla!

ekBrad

hey r u rockin a toda timing belt? do vtec timing belts work on b18b's?

crazydominicanman

Damn i've learned so much in this thread..Josh your building an LS MONSTER just like me!!!

cheapshot

I am in desprate need of a new car or a rebuit motor, I now have a bone stock 94 ls with 150,000 mls.

how much whp will you be getting out of this ls build?

I have no clue which way to go gsr, type r, ctr pictons, what head, I am so confused. I want it to start everyday, drive nice, and burn a lil' rubber.

jomama

^you, buddy, need to do a butt-ton more reading.

jdmthug

im in the process of doing a ls build myself for my hatch. Im doing the same setup on the bottom end.i havent really thought of what internals i will be using for the head yet. the ITR pistons will put you in the high 10s in compression if im not mistaken.ill do some more research on that one.Hopefully ull be satisfied with your setup when its all said and done and ur payin proboly half what everybody else would on this build...for sure your buddy having a machine shop and doing things for free is a good look...

SiR-G DC

I used this and it came out to be 11.67:1 on the CR.... And i still might shave a little off the head, Not to sure yet but most likely not.

http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html

I am very grateful to have a friend like that but it is not free, Nothing is. I'm going to give him some cash for his time

SiR-G DC

Yes i do. They do work as long as you have the correct water pump (VTEC).

jdmthug

so ur runnin the gsr water pump on your ls block..ur using the belt tensioner and everything from that setup also or what

bossm

i see that your buddy is working at brotherz racing they did my timing belt and they didnt screw in my alternator and it was basically just dangeling there and they lost 2 screws for my timing belt cover cus i guess they thought i didnt need them

SiR-G DC

Well that sucks. That's why i don't let people work on my car and i do my own work. But fortunetly I only go there for tuning.

xfrankx

my friend (naeh2na on here) has built a few serious allmotor setups and when he broke his engines in like was stated earlier he just ripped on them then took it to the dyno and they never failed. of course there is a LOT of people that advise against it and i personally wouldnt do it knowing my luck but thats an option too since it works for some

g/l on the build its lookin good so far

SiR-G DC

Thanks

Got my ACL Bearing's and what not today. I'll get some pictures laterrrr

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

In for progress and results.

If you weren't getting a deal on a machine work, would the ARP's have been worth the upgrade?

SiR-G DC

Yea, I woud have still got it done.