all motor junkie

Bump

Jawn Grimm

^^^and 1 more Great read. I can understand people who don't want to deal with the SOHC when it's easy to swap, I really do get it. However, I bought a 2000 EX, that comes with a D16Y8, that's what I want it to have. I'm fine with not pushing 200hp, I don't need or want that. I want a reliable DD that I can have fun in. Are bolt ons a waste of money? I guess if you say so, but they gotta at least help a little bit and they make you look cool. And looking cool is the only reason anyone spends money on cars. Again, great thread!

DelSol_F20B

Hey guys i don't know if i'm bringing this thread back from the dead lol, but i wanted to share my d16Y7 build from PR. Car is a 87 civic hatch with a pretty generic build:

D16Y7 block bored to .40
P29 Pistons
Stock Head with Supertech Springs and Ti-Retainers
Custom Crower Cam
B Series Tri-Y Header
S2 Pro Intake Manifold w/ 70mm TB
Evo 8 560cc Injectors
Tuned on Megasquirt V3

Car currently has 165 whp on 91oct and 175whp on Q16. Let me know what do you guys think

zombie247

^^ I'd like to see that header setup. just cut flange and go d flange? nice numbers!

DelSol_F20B

Yes sir

scrambled_EG6

how much did your d16Y7 build cost you so far? Very impressive #'s by the way for sohc motor

fullybuiltd16z6

Hey im new to this site. to get started bottom end 76mm p29 pistons, new crank with acl bearings, ls rods, high flow oil pump, block is blue printed. head-street race port and polish, brian crower valves dual valve springs retainers, zex comp camshaft 272 grind, head has been milled, running a chipped p28, now im stuck on intake manifold-throttle body size- and injectors size, if you have any info it would greatfully first single n/a build.

Charlstw

hmm, I have been a reader since joining honda-tech, and it seems like everyone would rather go with B-series when it comes to modding.. so I just kept quiet.. heres the thing, I'm located in Asia, and the inspection laws here requires the engine codes to be present while inspecting, which means whatever came on the car originally had to be in the engine bay for the cars to run a legal plate... sucks I know..

well, all the reasons for another SOHC


Mod list:
D16Y8 76mm
p29 piston
y8 rods
milled head
head port and polish
light weight flywheel
zc pulley
AEM adjustable cam pulley
oem cam
oem throttle body
oem intake manifold polished
modified oil pump
walbro 255 fuel bump
custom exhaust
421 header



I'm currently running oem cams, the car is been tuned on E-manage, which is believed to be a shitty system, I'm getting alot of recommendations here to run with Power FC, however, the obd1 setup seem so popular on honda-tech and d-series, I dont know why the local shops here are disagreeing. Also, I'm looking to upgrade to a mild cam in the future, with springs and retainers of course, still debating whether or not to use forge internals before I do such.



I guess I got some questions regarding this build so far, the motor is getting full warranty from this shop I work with..

1. Its still knocking a bit going from complete stop with AC on, or mild acceleration around 2k-3k rpm, slight knock only can be heard when in a quiet street with window down, knock is louder with AC on, still working on tuning that away.. but I'm getting alot of people recommending a better fuel comp.. is there a benefit to use power fc over the usual conver to obd1?
2. Forge parts are rare and expensive here to get, especially on a d, I guess I'm wondering if it is actually neccessary to use forged internals for the bottom end to run aftermarket cams?

Problems unsolved:
1. knocking knocking knocking
2. car is hard to start once a while, it will turn on, but rpm sits super super super low, like 150rpm, and the car will slowwwwwly get to the right idle.

Curlybandit

Hey.

I put this up a few months ago in the NA section.

This motor has been a work in progress for the last couple of years. Last year I had the bottom end built with a stock head and level 2 Bisi camshaft. It made 130whp on 94 octane and was tuned using Crome.

You can see the last build details on a different forum here and here.

This year I had a z6 head built and built a short-geared transmission. It made 156whp (155.6) and 115wtrq on 94 octane following a tuning session on a Mustang Dyno. This time it was tuned using Neptune. We ran it up to 8000rpm and it stopped making power at around 7500rpm. The tuner did an amazing job, considering his system was showing that the thermostat wasn't working properly. He was able to work around it and still get some fantastic numbers.

Undoubtedly the work on the head and the Rocket Motorsports camshaft and valve-train made the biggest difference in creating the power. Together they freed up almost 26whp over last year's build. The high compression pistons, the free-flowing head and camshaft worked beautifully together and the tuning helped to show what they can do.

I'm really happy with the results. But there are a few more horses lurking in there. Due to time limitations that I had (not the tuner) we never got to dial-in the cam-gear. I think I'll be setting up another session to see if we can get a little more power.

Here's the dyno chart:


Here's the video of the final pull:

When you're standing next to the engine like I was, the VTEC cross-over is intense. The audio in the video doesn't nearly do it justice.

Here's a video of me chasing down a B20VTEC swapped Acura 1.6EL and a few other cars on the track during an open lapping day:

Here are the engine details:

Exhaust:
- Megan Racing 4-2-1 header
- Magnaflow high-flow catalytic converter
- Tanabe Medalion 2.25" exhaust

d16z6 block:
- resurfaced 0.004", rebuilt: Top Line gasket kit
- bored to 75.5mm
- P29 pistons (Nippon Racing) - 75.5mm
- NPR piston rings
- ACL race bearings
- ARP rod bolts
- crank journals resurfaced
- Innovative Mounts AT-MT passenger side mount 60A (red) Polyurethane
- Innovative Mounts rear side mount 75A (black) Polyurethane
- Innovative Mounts driver's side mount 75A (black) Polyurethane
- 11.4lbs Competition Clutch flywheel
- miscellaneous parts (i.e. water pump, belts, etc) all Honda OEM

d16z6 head:
- ported and polished
- resurfaced 0.004" (IIRC)
- Rocket Motorsports stage 4 camshaft (re-grind of stock d16z6)
- Rocket Motorsports valve springs
- Rocket Motorsports titanium spring retainers
- AEM Tru-Time camshaft gear
- ARP head studs
- Cometic 75.5mm head gasket
- Denso spark plugs gapped and supplied by Rocket Motorsports
- d16y8 intake manifold - ported to 60mm and polished inlet and runner outlets ported to match head intake ports
- OBX plastic intake manifold gasket cut to match head intake ports
- 56mm d16z6 throttle body with KMS FITV block-off plate
- generic short-ram intake
- generic cotton air filter

Miscellaneous:
- Mishimoto aluminum radiator
- B&M fuel pressure regulator
- B&M fuel pressure gauge
- chipped P06 tuned on Neptune
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump

I'm in the process of researching options to help improve air flow in and out of the motor. NA builds are a delicate balance between what works and what doesn't.

I've picked up a 68mm throttle body and Skunk2 intake manifold. I'm going to be ordering RDX 440cc injectors to go with the Walbro 255lph pump I have. I'm considering the 1320 4-1 header with the 2.5" outlet for top-end power, 2.5" cat that I already have and 2.5" exhaust straight through. I think with a good tune I should see a few more ponies.

jalexander

Ive got an F20A SOHC non VTEC and idk what the head is. Will an F22A1 or A4 bolt right up to an H23 intake manifold? If you know what either is. I’d love to know.

GhostAccord

Need to know what head it is before we can say if an H23 intake will bolt up.

If you were to remove that heat shield and look at the stamped code on the head it will tell you what head that is. If it says PT3, you have an F22A1-4 head If it says PT6 you're better off as that would be the F22A6 head.