94SiRswap

Okay,so I had some pretty big plans for this car,which I still do..but I picked up another car which needs a little more attention than the civic. So I'm going to address all the crap parts I had on the car when I first got it tuned. A retune with my tuner only costs $180, hence me even considering doing this lol..I just want to get a little more out of it before I back burner this project for my other car.

First things first its basically a stock b16a with ctr cams and aem cam gears. Random ebay sri,autozone filter. It was tuned with a ebay special 4-1 header,now I have a DC 4-1 that's already dented to ****.

I plan on going with the Plm Toda rep, or maybe the plm narrow header because it looks better. If the gains on the toda are substantially more thats what it'tl be. I have a full 3in exhaust and a 3in ktuned turn down muffler. I plan on putting a couple resonators on it,no cat. I'm looking for a 3in ebay cai and I'll put a K&N on it, I can only find 2.75in though which will have to do,unless I ball out and just get the AEM v2 or a Injen.
So thats pretty much all I can think of to squeeze that last bit out of my 1.6 with minimal costing bolt ons. My first tune made 156whp 110wtq,with the parts listed in 2nd line. I previously thought the 2 1/4 (straight through) was good for the 1.6 but ive read 3in is the way to go.I'm hoping to get atleast 170whp 115wtq out of this.. 175whp ill be happy.

Anything else I should do though ? tb? Rather not do anything with the tb because ill have to port the intake for it to be worth it.

Chance EG

Kinda pointless to get an intake tube with a diameter larger than the TB opening, at least to an extent. You can check out Go-Autoworks for some NA intake tubes as well though if you're looking. If you can afford it, getting a proper CAI from Go-Auto along with a port matched TB would be great.

K&N filter is definitely a good idea and would yield some clean/easy gains.

I'd recommend getting a 1320 Toda rep header as opposed to PLM. PLM is just garbage, period.

Otherwise everything sounds good.

94SiRswap

Damn, no go on the PLM huh? any links or bad experiences? Also my cars pretty low,so the RMF 4-2-1 rep would give better clearance than the Toda rep,no?

I checked out the go autoworks cais by the way.Nice.

AYB18c

For reference, i'm pretty sure stock exhaust diameter on the b16a in the ef is something like....2 inches. Maybe 2.25.
In my opinion for a b16 with just cams/gears/bolt-ons you probably would have been fine with a header with a 2.5 collector & a 2.5 in exhaust, plus a straight through muffler. I'm not sure where you got the idea that 3" is the way to go for n/a applications, in my research most of the time 3" is only required for Tha Boost...but hey, maybe I'm wrong! Anyways you've got the 3" setup already though, so roll with it!

If you go down the TB route then you're gonna spend more money b/c you're gonna want to touch the intake manifold & so on and so forth....if it were me & I were on a budget (which it sounds like you are b/c of the work needed to the other car you just picked up) I'd leave the TB alone. Just go with what you mentioned before & tune baby tune.... GL.

P.S. Am I the only one that can't tell the difference between 170 peak whp and 175 peak whp?

Chance EG

Literally just google "PLM manifold reviews", and look at the pictures of what some people have posted. I've heard from a lot of people that have had minor (or sometimes major) fitment issues with them not clearing the oil pan, or even the flanges being angled/skewed. Their quality control is abysmal. Someone on these forums recently purchased a top mount turbo manifold from them and I swear to god some of the steel on that didn't even look stainless, it looked like mild steel that had been MIG welded.

Their NA headers would probably be less risky to go with than their turbo manifolds, but I still wouldn't support them when companies like 1320, IMO, are inarguably better and offer the same replica products for the same price.

As far as ground clearance goes I really don't know for sure. 1320 has a lot of very helpful pictures on their site though that could help you out with that, just look at some of their listings. If I had to guess, I'd at least suspect that a megaphone style header would use more space between the oil pan and ground than a basic merge would, but none of the builds I've worked with have ever been slammed and I've also never worked with (or even seen) a megaphone style header in person honestly.

94SiRswap

Yeah.I had that backwards up there actually the rmf is 4-1 and the toda is 4-2-1. And I've been doing a load of research since I'm about to buy the header, but I'm still undecided. I see all over the place the rmf gives 10-15whp untuned (lol),but I also see the Toda is the best header for b16.I saw the PLM reviews as well, going 1320 when I decide what I'm doing.

And yeah AYB, I thought the same thing but its been proven a 3" will make more power on NA or boost. I'm just going to do intake,exhuast, and go get'er tuned!

I was a little disappointed with my original 156whp, but I'm assuming the ebay header and sri were to blame. I've seen more than a few b16 dynos with just a good header and intake making low to mid 160whp, where I have my ctr cams and am at 156.Rough.

Seriously though Toda or rmf narrow rep. That is the question.

ontariorider

I would go toda rep on the header, go auto works on the intake or make a 3" and get a blox v stack..and if u can find a deal on Craigslist u could find an itr intake manifold and port it to a s2 alpha 68/70 TB that would help too.

AYB18c

Man, well i guess I need to get back to reading, who knew 3" was the bomb dot com for mild n/a builds as well. Thanks for the info!

Anyways, as far as the header is concerned you mentioned the rmf is 4-1 and the toda is 4-2-1; old school thought was 4-1 was better for top end peak power versus 4-2-1 sacrifices a little top end for more mid-rpm grunt....so I guess if you're gonna be revving high on the regular go 4-1? But if just scooting around town & an occasional pull maybe the 4-2-1 is a better idea?

You may consider looking for dynos of the 2 headers and look at the shape of the torque curves on a b16 and see which makes a bigger gain vs. stock in the powerband/rpms in which you spend the most time. That way you're buying a header for *your* driving style, not just a header with the "best" numbers.

Chance EG

I'll definitely agree with this idea.

This is very solid advice too.

94SiRswap

Yeah man. True that. Everyone wants to make the most power and that was the mindframe I was in. I daily this and the car is slammed. That being said Toda it is.

It may be a bit until I get it retuned, Ill dig this up and post the graph when I do.
Thanks dudes.

AYB18c

Yah man all this talk we'll be awaiting the results! Don't leave us hanging!

94SiRswap

I haven't bought the header yet but... I think I'm going to go for the rmf. Lol.
The struggle is real.


Just looked at Mikeyspecs header comparison from back in 2011.. Toda rep beat out the rmf by 4whp and the mid torque curve crushed it. It was on a ITR but still.

AYB18c

Wait so....the toda replica performed better but you're buying the RMF? Now I'm really confused

Chance EG

I think he may have edited in a typo or something, pretty sure he said he was purchasing Toda 2 posts ago lol

94SiRswap

This.

I bought the 1320 Toda rep lol.

Now, I wanna daily with a v stack out the front. How do most people go about doing this? I know ittl be a CAI with custom pipe/v stack typically, but what to do about a filter?

Chance EG

Look into filters like the Blox filter kit. They make them where the velocity stack sits within the filter coupler.

I'm sure there are some other companies that also make them like this: Performance Air Filter Kits - 3"