the425th

Hey h-t

I've been in the honda game for a couple years now and had a few swaps, but never had a built motor. I finally have a job that can support a motor build, so I want to build one of my gsr's that threw main bearings. I'm thinking a 2.0 n/a gsr build. Like I said, I've never built a motor so I want to know all the little things that can make big differences when putting a motor together.

I'm shooting for 260+whp at like a 12:1~ish c/r. And I want to daily it

From what I've read, since I want to rev 9k, I should stick with a 87-89mm crank. Probably this one.

As far as pistons, rods, valvetrain, cams, that's where I still need advice. This might be a stupid question, but since I don't want to stroke it, what rods would I need to use? 1.8 or 2.0 rods?

What pistons are ideal for this kind of build? I've seen JE and Wiseco a lot in some pretty nasty n/a builds. Also, 84 or 84.5? 84 would put me just under 2.0 technically, correct?

Have no clue on what kind of cams n valvetrain. Input needed!

Please provide any input you guys have, I want to make this a successful build, done right the first time.

Thanks in advance

93egSLEEPER

If you want to build a 2.0L GSR its going to take sleeving to 84mm and a LS/B20 crank. I wouldnt mess with buying an aftermarket crank to do it. The easiest way would be to use a B20 block which is already 2.0L and wont require sleeving, but then again you do have a pretty hefty HP goal so sleeving a GSR would also be a nice choice for longevity and to keep your mind at ease. I am "bulletproofer" so if I think it might break I'll spend the extra cash to make it durable. What kind of budget are you looking to go on?

I personally think a 260whp NA motor for DD is on the verge of rediculous, but thats just me.

Mr. EG

You match your rods to your crank. 89mm crank= B20/LS rods while an 87.2mm crank= GsR/ITR rods. If your asking all these simple questions I HIGHLY doubt you know what your doing let alone capable of building a 260WHP motor.

Mr. EG

On that compression it will take some port work/ high end parts and upping the compression to 13+ will require an alternative fuel and it will be un-streetable IMO.

the425th

I feel the same way about parts, budget isn't my main concern, I want a quality build.

the425th

First, I don't know what I'm doing, that's WHY I'm asking questions. You were new once too.

Second, I'm not going for 13+ c/r. Read the post. k?thx

Mr. EG

You may want to lower your standards a bit. And there is no need for that crank a stock LS one will do fine, just get it balanced.

the425th

That's good to know, that'll save a bunch of cash. I just assumed aftermarket internals.

Mr. EG

Don't be a smartass. What I meant was you most likely won't achieve your power goal without that high of a CR.

the425th

For real? I thought I've seen other builds while searching through with the same cr I'm after making pretty comparable power. This guy makes 248whp with 84mm ITR pistons isn't that 11:1?

Mr. EG

Depending on his final CR (milled head, HG, etc), his compression may be higher. He also made his last run on a open header and most likely spent a ton of time tuning. 260WHP is possible, but will take some work. And 10-15WHP takes more than you think in a NA motor.

the425th

I see. I realize it is a difficult goal, but around my area everyone just runs turbos. I want to be able to pull on the boosted kids with just raw power, you know?

What about cams? What do you think of Crower or Skunk2 pro2's?

Mr. EG

I hear you 100%. I hate boosted cars and around my area its the same old crap. I am a huge Skunk2 fan so I say go with Pro2's/Pro3's.

the425th

I got another newbie question. I see people talking about having their blocks decked. What exactly is decking your block?

EG1834

That's when the deck of the block (ie where the head gasket goes) is cut. The purpose of decking is to provide a true flat surface, square to the main housings centerline, and a proper surface finish for the gasket to seal against and to set the distance the piston sits above or below the deck at TDC.

Mr. EG

Taking off material or "milling" to up your CR.

the425th

I really appreciate everyone's input so far. You guys have helped answer many questions. I have a feeling I'm gonna have a lot more lol.

What kind of valvetrain you guys reccomend? or will stock valvetrain hold just fine?

93egSLEEPER

Skunk2 Pro valve train

Mr. EG

Stock Valves. Pro Series springs/retainers + Pro2/3 cams.

PyroProblem

260whp from a 2 liter, daily driven on 12:1 is gonna be a challenge especially being your first build. Not impossible, but improbable. Is K series out of the question?
Most 250+ whp b series are fully built with alot of expnsive parts, higher compression, and race gas/E85.
Your talking about 140BHP/LITER naturally aspirated! Thats quite a feat.

C_Rock77

Bro...you've got a LOT of knowledge to gain before you're going to be able to build a NA engine capable of 260whp. "A lot" doesn't even come CLOSE to the amount of knowledge you need to put this together.

There's a huge portion of this population on this site that doesn't even know what "Building an engine" REALLY entails. It is NOT choosing the parts, putting them together and hoping that you hit your mark. There's a good number of people that call themselves "engine builders" that don't understand what all is required.

I guess what I'm trying to say is you need to either cut your teeth on a milder build or pay someone with the knowledge and skill required to pull a build like this off. No offense, but noone is going to build a 260 whp NA DAILY DRIVEN (i.e. 93 octane) right out of the gate. I hope you realize that a 260 whp build is over 300 bhp (150 bhp/L). That's calculating a 15% drivetrain loss, which is VERY low!

I'm not hating. I'm just being realistic. I think you need to take a step back and do the same.

You said yourself that we all start somewhere. Well, you're at that starting point and it is a LONG way from the point where you have the knowledge to be successful at this endeavor.

BROAD STROKES As far as components for this build:
84-85X89 dimensions
~12:1 Static Compression -- Don't let anyone bull$hit you into trying more with 93 octane
Ported head
Rocket's M24s, M25s, or his SuperCams, Skunk2 Pro2s (MAYBE), Likely Pro3s
Properly sized Intake Manifold/TB OR ITBs (Would help you hit the mark, but not great for DD)
A GOOD header -- SMSP or Hytech Custom 4-2-1, Skunk2
3" Header-back exhaust with free-flowing muffler

Do yourself a favor....Sell that block that spun main bearings. It's junk. You'd be better off buying another block that's never spun anything and sleeve it

lunatics209

iTrader: (1)

Or you can just buy my motor. It's already making 260+ WHP on E85. Don't know the exact calculations for the compression but I'm guessing anywhere from high 12's to low 13's. My chambers were reworked.

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

What makes 260 your goal? Not trying to be a smart ***...just curious. Are you gonna track this car or drag race with it? I personally feel that a 225 to 240 and some attention towards your gearing would be a better choice, and realistic goal for daily driven use. If you get on youtube and type in RM m24x, you should see a video with a green integra. Thats a good customer if mine...to me, that is the perfect dd/track motor.

the425th

I'm lovin' the feedback guys, please keep it comin!

Not looking to go K series. I appreciate the input.

This is the exact kind of feedback I'm looking for. I'm willing to drop my goal, but like I said previously I want to be able to pull on most of the boosted kids (cause most of them buy the $500.00 ebay kit, boost a stock d-series, and talk maaaad ****). 240whp would even make me happy.

Even if I'm rebuilding that motor, you think it's still garbage? I planned on sleeving the block. I've pulled the block apart and stock sleeves aren't scarred or anything mains are just shot. Need a new crank too but I would be investing in a new one anyway.

260 is just what I figured I would be able to make off of a 2.0 with a proper build & tune. I know a kid that has a build b20b in a ek coupe (same car I'll be puttin this motor into) and supposedly makes 240 and he ***** on a lot of people at the track.

So far what I've gathered from everyone is 260 might be a little over excessive. It sounds like I may end up dropping my hp goal but I think I can still come out with a pretty powerful motor.

I know this is my first build, but I have a lot of people who I can locally go to for assistance. My brother has a few builds but he likes to run boost. I'm not sure how much he would be able to help me with my build. He has a nasty single cam in a ef wagon though. Makes 420 on 17lbs (I think 17lbs). Although I'm not sure if he had speed factory build it or if they just tuned it.

N/A

Oh my god its like bad re-runs