EG6 Master

WAIT WAIT WAIT!!! You reached 184.6 and 149 TUNED??? From your previous post I assumed you meant completely stock, exactly like mine.

My numbers are from an F20B that has NOT BEEN tuned at all.....

Removing the restrictive resonator assembly from the front wheel well that was connected to the stock filter box is the only thing I did to the car. This DID open up the STOCK air intake piping and the stock PAPER filter to a source of cold air. However, it cannot account for a 20 PS increase in power!!

I say 20 PS because 165 PS is what I expected it would put down. Stock ITRs rated at 200 horses dyno in that range and the USDM H22a that is rated at 200 horses consistantly produce around the same.

Temperature was 65 degrees and Tokyo is 400 feet above sea level.

MAYBE ITS THE ROYAL PURPLE.......HHHMMM

Blazin Si

lol I understand the technical stuff. I'm just trying to understand how you've gone about forming your opinions.

What are you planning to do with this engine after it's built?

State.of.Prime

This is in an accord right? What mods were you thinking itbs? maybe an H head?

jhondayang

Yes, only mods done was a small *** intake from an EF and a catback. Is the hp I pushed out not enough i assume? Looking at the restriction my intake gave me, it should have been just a few ponies more if I had a bigger intake. Also, it was dynoed on a hot humid *** day in socal and on a dynapack which i heard is under rating hp. My friends hatch dynoed his car on a dyno jet and pushed out 342 whp. Then he went on a dynapack and made 324 whp. Go figure. And the place that he dynoed with the Dyno jet was dynoed at a higher elevation place.

EG6 Master

LoL!! Well now you have insight as to how I formulated my opinions about the H and K Series engines.

I dont know yet. I already have a B Series for my EG6, So I wont use it there.

I would like to strip it down, send it the states and have a K24 installed. The engine mounts and chassis are unlike ANYTHING in America. I will have to get custom engine mounts made by Innovative or Hasport for a K swap. No available kit can work for this chassis.

Another option I have is to keep it, modify it to the max and do Time Attack with it. With all the right parts and ITBs I am sure I can obtain 260 from it.

EG6 Master

Yes an Accord CF4. For now I am putting in Skunk2 Stage II cams, I-H-E, K Series intake manifold, H22 head (STILL on its way) with a Stage III P&P from CC Cylinder Heads, Ferrea valves-springs-retainers and tune it with an S300. Want to make 220.

Yours made a lot less than mine and the other two F20Bs. Conditions do play a major role in the numbers that you will produce.

State.of.Prime

What kind of intake are you thinking?

What did mugen do to make this engine 315hp?

EG6 Master

Already installed an Ice Man CAI and Buddy Club Spec III catback. Waiting for my header, test pipe, plugs, wires, custom ECU program, intake manifold and throttle body to be installed before I go back to the dyno again. Since Im currently at 185 I am hoping to make 210 with the additional bolt-ons. Once I get the head work done, install the cams and get tuned I hope to reach 230-240. That is my new goal.

I dont know exactly what Mugen did to produce 315 PS but you can be sure that it included high compression, a very free flowing head, wicked cams and ITBs tune to the hilt. Oh yeah, and RPMs!!

What a lot of Honda types dont know is that the F20B is the precursor to the K20A.

Mugen rotated the head 180 degrees, putting the intake ports in the front, and used a header exactly like the K Series currently uses. This allowed Mugen to mount the engine closer to the firewall for much better weight distribution and better over all balance.

jhondayang

how did my engine make a lot less than yours? and with just bolt ons you will get 210 hp? please believe me, but I am not trying to start a fight, nor an argument. I'm just sayin, if you can reach that much with just bolt ons, I'd like to jump on the band wagon. I know the potential of the motor, "my graph showed alot of restriction due to the EF intake."

EG6 Master

Well, a lot less is certainly relative. I dont know how much untuned power you would have made. All that I am saying is regardless of the intake, tuned with an exhaust is definitely advantageous versus untuned with no exhaust.

Thanks to the dyno, I now know the potential of the motor also my man. With a starting point of 185 as opposed to 165-170, there is no reason that 210 cant be obtained. Cams, P&P, tuning, intake manifold, header and some other very select parts will surely net me near the 210 mark. Its all in the parts that you choose for your particular motor. I specifically only tune Honda engines with high rod ratios, that is my preference. I have been in the game for a long time so I am pretty adept at calculating horse power potential.

asif037

cant wait to get my hands on an F20B...
lots of potential.

Leonidas18

I have a F20B with an h23 trans ported and polished head plm ramhorn headers skunk2 intake manifold blox 72mm throttle body 410cc rdx injector 255 walboro fuel pump with a p28 s300v3 hondata and i put the car on the dyno and i was pushing 178.4 whp and 138.6tq i feel like thats to low for the mods i have has anyone gotten these number wit about the same amount of mods?

Aradin

Super old thread you bumped but I'll bite. What cams? Those numbers are about right for an auto engine with basic mods. Manual engine with the type-s cams is closer to 200whp. It also depends on the dyno. A dynapack(hub dyno) typically inflates numbers 8-10% over something like an actual dynojet.

Leonidas18

its a manual engine

Aradin

That does seem a little low. What kind of dyno was it? Roller or hub dyno? Have you done a compression test?