kwint

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theslugbug &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump back up to see some:

mods, dynos, and times.

currently running a stock B18B... (curious, by adding CROWERs cams or whatever cams on a bone stock motor with no other upgrade except tune n ecu, would it be faster or make more power than a b16 or gsr?) Seeing if i would be better off with upgraded cams or a VTEC head. Looking for BANG for the BUCK and fast track time.

"who doesnt want to blow all ur money, raise their hand" </TD></TR></TABLE>

From what I've -researched- a b18b with bolts and cams will make more power and torque than a b16 with the same bolt ons. There is a video of a DA on youtube with BC 403 cams and he was claiming 155whp with bolt ons. Not sure what the bolt ons were tho.

The brian crower website shows actual dyno gains with the 402s and 403s. The 403s gained like 15whp already putting you in b16 territory for CHEAPER.

1200 Hobos

iTrader: (7)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1200 Hobos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wanted to bump this thread with some questions that crossed my mind while going through this thread (just finished reading the whole thing aswell as browsing the links of builds within). It was mentioned before but nobody really went into detail about the subject. What is the upkeep like for motors that are built if any (out of the ordinary)? For the most part, I see everyone going with what turns out to be the same set-up. We got the b18b1 long-block with p30s, LS rods, headwork, 404s, some type of valvetrain to hold the revs high, not too many balancing their cranks (more for roadracing applications I guess). My question is what kind of maintanence do these motors need? I'm mostly concerned with a built b18b with 404s tuned producing between 160-180+whp as this is the set-up I decided to piece together and try to build. Are there any special upkeep these motors crave? I'm sure some high quality oil and changes on time are a must but somebody mentioning Ti retainers having to be checked periodically kind of worried me and brought up the question speaking generally for built motors.

Also a more random question, I noticed people using OS valves. Are these necessary? I'm assuming people do this becuase they're porting and polishing the head but are you really taking off that much from the ports where you need to get OS vavles? Or woudl stock sizing work fine? I guess it depends on how much you port/polish and what the previous condition of the head is but if anybody cares to inform me on this I think it would be good to know since I didnt' catch that anywhere, just noticed ppl using OS vavles. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

anybody?

AMLS4dr200whp

u dont need os valves stocks are just fine, as far as maintanance ti retainers do wear out so you have to an eye on them. Oil just use mobil one synthetic after u break in and tune it and you should be fine

six7one

Hey guys I am need some opinions on my build.I was gonna go turbo but due to finaical situation I'm not going to and the Block is all ready put together so I don't wanna change it.
1. Can I use a OEM one-layer headgasket and mill the head 0.020 would there be any Piston-to-valve clearance issue or just use a one-layer head gasket. Resone why I ask this is I want the C/R to be close to stock or a little higher with the pistons I have.
2. Should I port and polish the head or just a simple 3-angle valve job and port match intake/exhaust ports
set up is
Block B18a1
Egale Rods
Wiseco FLat Top pistons -4 81.5mm
ARP Main bolts and Head Studs

Head P75
Crower Springs and Ti-Retainers
Supertech Valves std size
BC STG 2 cams(need to order)

OneSlow92EGSi

My thoughts for the "budget" crowd -
B18 Base Engine.
PCT Pistons $200 .25mm over cause you'll need to bore/hone it.
Probe I-beam rods. $250
Rings/Race Bearings/Thrust Washers $225-275.

At that point, you have a very reliable bottom end.

For the top side, a good 3-angle or radius cut valve job, with the seat opened up toward the edge of the valves, and narrowed considerably. $225-275.

Bolt-on mods, such as decent header, decent intake, etc.
P75 ECU tuned.

AMLS4dr200whp

I have a built head for u guys for a b20 84.5mm or higher I was gonna use it for a future build but now I need money. Help me out guys

Blk_EJ1

up for non vtec...

crispchris

bringin this back thread back from the dead......
basically i'm building this to be a DD, the car will see some track time but 99% of the time its going to be a daily driver. Trying to get in the 170-180whp range with a nice midrange powerband being important.
Now I do plan to eventually mildly turbo this car and keep basically the same engine but wouldn't mind changing to a thicker head gasket or possibly cam swap.
I'd like some of your guys opinions on piston & cam selection.
Heres the parts I have so far and the remaining buildlist
benson slevved 84.5mm b18a
stock crank
adj cam gears
either maxi light crower or carillo rods
PnP pr4 head
crower valvetrain
performer x IM
Spoolin header & 2.5" cat to tip
aem v2 intake & bored 66mm ls tb
tuned on crome

Now for cams I've be deciding between the 403's and 404's, leaning a little bit more towards the 404's because i'm not sure if the 403's will produce the peak power I want.
Also debating on what compression pistons to go with. The car will be running on 91octane and I know it can take higher than the 10-10.5 CR that ive been looking at but as i said earlier I do plan to turbo the car down the road quite some time.

So my questions are would you recommend 403's or 404's for a hopeful 180whp and good midrange for my build?
Can 10-10.5CR get me to 180whp or should i up it to 11-11.5CR and just swap to a thicker head gasket when turbocharging. Again all on 91 octane.
If you have any other cam selections that you think would fit my goal I would be interested to hear or anything else concerning my build I would like to hear them. Thank you

Combustion Contraption

I have a fully ported (hot street package on my website) B18B1 head that might be up for sale due to non-paying customer. I have some parts for it (Supertech outer valve springs and Keepers) if anyones interested, PM me.

turbob18si

Heres a couple pis of my current all motor LS project in process. heres a quick rundown. Its kinda a modest budget build for the summer dd/ weekend warrior. Plan to redo bottem end next winter with a sleeved block and stroker kit

B18B block bored to 82mm
micropolished crank
modified stock rods and ARP hardware
RS Machine 82mm CTR pistons
ARP headstuds
Cometic .030 head gasket
Fully ported and polished P75 head
multi angle valve job with .5mm os valves
dual springs and ti retainers
Crower 404 cams
JG Edelbrock IM portmatched for TB and head with runners cleaned up (original Victor x)
RPM Services 70mm TB
AEBS Cam gears

Still collecting fuel system parts, misc gaskets and other things before it can be dropped in. Hoping to have it in my 1900 lb EG and tuned to in the 180whp ballpark by mid spring

turbob18si

seems the new format has scared quite a few people away

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

check out this members LS build

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/spoolin-headers-review-2447145/

blackeg

heres what ive got on the engine stand right now along with how much it cost, should be in over christmas

97b20b4@ 84.5mm ---160
je proseal rings -------90
rs itr pistons ---------300
stock rods with arp rodstuds--30 for bolts, about 40 to resize the big end
itr oil pump-------used off an old motor 7k miles

97 ls head---------off an old motor
brian crower st 2's-----------285
crower dual valvesprings, oem retainers--170 i think
full race adj. camgears---150 barely used
blox intake manifold.-----160 i think

will also have gangster old school iceman intake--came on car
jdm itr 4-1 header w/2.5" collector---140
2.5" exhaust with magnaflow muffler----piping was free, muffler was 60



im gonna tune it with rtp which cost me 500 bucks installed in an ecu.


overall cost will be between 1500 and 1800 i think. im looking for a cool 170/150 out of this which i feel is achieveable. ive been seeing many good things about the bc cams. this is my daily so im not gonna beat on it, but ill get it on the dyno at some point for tuning and the track for the hell of it

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I have stock b18a1 block, what would the CP ratio be with CTR pistons and a LS head?

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

b18A with PCT CTR pistons

11.4:1

patriot

iTrader: (2)

BlackEG, you're only expecting 170hp from this setup?
Is the head completely stock?

blackeg

head is all stock except the cams, gears and valvesprings. actually the head has about 230k, redone at the machine shop of course. .004" off the surface, hot tank, beadblast, 3 angle valve recut and new valveseals.


yeah 170ish id say. its my daily driver and im going to go very conservative with the timing. for a while when im inbetween turbo drag cars it will be my only car and i cant call out of work because my motor detonated and i cracked a sleeve or some crap. i might run it more on the dyno itself when tuning, but ill dial it back when i leave

patriot

iTrader: (2)

Your compression is going to be close to 12:1, right?
Do you guys have 93 octane in NY?

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I have all these people claiming it would be 13:1 or high 12's. Any reason behind those statements or just mis-information being passed from person to person?

blackeg

rs states 11.2:1 with my head/piston setup, but with the amount taken off the head im gonna be in the 11.5:1 range. got 93 all over, i make nicely over 400 with it in my other car. as said, it can probably make more power, but im not out for tons of power so im gonna keep the tune real conservative.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

i used the CR calculator on c-speedracing.com

DA is best

iTrader: (1)

this thread helps alot thanks

DA is best

iTrader: (1)

what header would you guys choose for best bang for the buck?

kwint

ITR header. Or a megan header with a collector mod.

tougel

who maks stage one cams and stage 2 cams that dont sound all chooppee like doodoodoo. i dont want the cams tto sond like a v6.