tumbaumba

I looked at the EP3 K24A1 swap guide that has been on ephatch and rsx forums for nearly 10 years now... and it seemed like I just need a CR-V mount bracket... and it's a 100% direct drop in.
Well not so fast.

Initial engine prep:
1.K20A3 water pump housing must be transferred onto K24 - you need "Honda-bond" or equivalent gasket maker
Additionally, it's highly recommended to use a new water pump housing O-ring, part number 19322-PCX-003

2.In order to retain the PRB intake manifold support bracket (with the wiring harness bracket on it):
you will need to tap an existing hole in the K24 block and use a bolt with a large washer; you need the large washer because the bolt will sit just below the support bracket, not going through the bracket like on K20A3 block

3.You need to tap the coolant passage on the K24 cylinder head with a 3/8 NPT tap
You will need a 90 degree elbow fitting: 3/8 NPT male on one end(going into the cylinder block), and 1/2" barb on the other end
Alternatively, you can use a K-tuned fitting which will add $100 to your swap budget

The fitting should be far enough from the engine so that the coolant hose isn't touching the engine block (not necessary but recommended)

4.You may or may not be able to use your stock throttle body depending on size/shape of the new coolant fitting you installed, because there isn't enough clearance for the stock throttle body
I ended up removing the cruise control and modifying the throttle body so it clears the coolant fitting

5. You need to use K24 water neck housing and you need to use K24 metal water pipe - because it bolts to the K24 water neck housing
The metal water pipe needs to be carefully bent in two places : 1. to clear the starter wiring connector and 2. to reach the heater core hose.

6. You need an EGR block-off plate to prevent an exhaust leak

Wiring harness:
Because the K24 block is taller in size than K20A3, your wiring harness will need to be modified so that your connectors can reach the sensors on the transmission WHILE retaining sufficient slack to not overstress any wires. It is recommended to take the wiring harness apart and rearrange the wires without cutting anything.

The coolant sensor wire needs to be extended (it's possible to do without cutting the wire)

The knock sensor wire (below VTEC solenoid) needs to be lengthened via cutting and soldering

You have to use a K20A3 intake cam sensor so the wiring connector reaches it without modification

Serpentine belt:
You cannot reuse K20A3 serpentine belt because K24 crank pulley is different diameter (though I am not sure if this is true for all K24s)
You must use either K20A3 or K20Z3 tensioner and idler pulley
With AC removed, you need a belt that is 52.5" absolute minimum in length. Part number 525k6

Exhaust Manifold:
Have to use a K24 exhaust manifold gasket
K24 exhaust ports are larger in diameter
If using stock K20A3 header, you should mark it with a permanent marker and enlarge the openings. Thus port-matching it to the K24 head (not required but recommended)

Air intake:
Cannot use stock airbox in its original location
Do not install any "short ram" intake with an exposed air filter inside the engine bay, it will heat soak

Engine mounts:
CR-V driver engine bracket 11910-PPA-000

Fuel:
330cc injectors are recommended, 310cc are borderline sufficient but will be on the lean side

Other:
The non-ghetto way to install a 2.4L engine cover with a PRB intake manifold is to use the K20A3 engine cover and epoxy the 2.4L badge on top


I am going to update this with photos and other misc K24A1 swap information.

tommycrx

Very good information. I'm not sure why you'd want to do all of that work and then slap an engine cover on top of your work though, especially if you have to frankenstein it.

I just went through a K20A, which is supposed to be even easier, and there were all kinds of problems. Sh*t does happen.