MooreJo02

So I'm replacing the clutch on my 02 Si. Shops around here were giving estimates close to $700 and I simply can't afford that. I've been working on it with my brother since Saturday morning and just yesterday we dropped the subframe and we were planning on at least getting the clutch replaced but not finishing entirely.

Problem is, tranny doesn't want to come off. After some inspection, we found another bolt that we're pretty sure is the culprit, but it's near impossible to reach and hopelessly tight. It's the frontmost (respect to the car) bolt right in between the fans and tranny/engine. I've heard you have to remove the IM to reach it, but I think a previous owner swapped the intake because it's not a 2-piece intake like I've seen on other EP3s. I'm kind of a noob when it comes to dealing with any lines that may contain fluid so how can I go about removing the IM along with the fuel rail, etc. without borking it up? Or is there another way to reach the bolt that anyone knows about?

I could be wrong and there's another reason it's stuck, but we're pretty sure it's this since we can't even get it to budge really. Sorry I don't have pictures. I'm not working in my own garage and won't see the car until later this evening.

JRCivic1

If you are referring to the starter bolts... you do NOT have to remove the upper one that is shrouded by the intake manifold. It is only necessary to remove the lower bolt (with the 17mm head). It is found just above the front engine mount. With the cradle removed, it is easiest to access from under the car.

feralcomp

Can confirm; just did this job and did not remove the IM.

There are good links with pics still available if you search around; I'd link you but I apparently forgot to bookmark it. Sorry!

MooreJo02

Sorry for the late reply for both of you. The only guides I've seen have been for DC5s and haven't mentioned that there's a bracket in the way of the bolt, so maybe it's an EP3 problem, or somehow the guides I'm reading just didn't mention it.

I did get the tranny off finally. That last bolt ended of being one of the tightest, probably not helped by the wiggling of the tranny assuming wed removed all the bolts. Now to get the thing back on. Any tips or tricks for that would help. I do have someone else to help.

feralcomp

My number one tip is to make damn sure there are two hollow dowel pins in the trans case to ensure it's located properly once bolted up. I bought my ep3 a couple months ago knowing it needed a new clutch and discovered that the center portion of the clutch disc was coming apart in graphic fashion. My new Exedy (stage I kit w/ LW flywheel, very sweet) came with a set of instructions that said, "Look out for this type damage as it indicates something deeper!". Lo and behold, the exact damage I was seeing was shown on these instructions along with a caption that said, "This is caused by misalignment- make sure the dowel pins are in place."

The seller of my car had worn out the factory clutch at ~130k and had it replaced at the dealer, who lost one of the dowel pins. At 150k miles, the new clutch was toast.

Another tip is to make sure you have plenty of downward tilt in the engine towards the driver side- this will help to allow the trans to slide in.
Finally, don't force it.

MooreJo02

Yeah we have the two dowels. One is on the engine side and the other in the trans. I assume this is no problem since they'll still line up.

​​​​​​Thanks for the engine tip. That probably is what kept us from getting it on last night. My brother gets kind of wrench happy and wasn't being very gentle. Was not fun. Attempting the installation again tonight and we have another set of hands so hopefully it goes smoothly.