NoUsername84

Fellas,

I live in CA. I currently have an AEM Dual-Chamber intake. I'm looking to uninstall the cat converter and install a mid pipe and keep the stock axel-back exhaust, later chipping it all with a K-Pro by Hondata. (For now, disregard the concern for passing smog). In other words, being CA street legal isn't a problem right now. My question is, I'm caught between DC Sports Racing Headers 4-2-1 and Megans Racing Headers 4-2-1. Prices differ by $200 (give or take a few $) online. What would everyone choose and why? Stainless steel or Ceramic? What about a heat wrap for Stainless steel? Used on eBay? Thanks all.

turbohatchBnuts

I have a short megan racing header on my car. I think it pretty loud tho.
I didnt choose it either thats how i bought the car. If i was going to buy one tho I would buy a long one piece header with a 2.5" collector. Then just heat wrap it. I like the black heat wrap.

NEO_FOLLOWER2

really a shorty header made your car loud?

i think your missing some info here...

are you running stock cat converter or an aftermarket one?

what about the midpipe/axleback?

is the rest of your exhaust stock, i doubt a shorty header alone added that much noise..?

turbohatchBnuts

the header is a megan short header. 2 1/2" downpipe off the header to a straight pipe to a megan catback . no stock exhaust here.

doood

iTrader: (1)

I'd attribute thstraight pipe and exhaust to making the car loud. Not the header.

DaveSi677

Bingo!

I would go with which ever one is cheaper... honestly you won't see much difference between the 2 unless you start spending big money!

NoUsername84

Great, thanks. That's the answer I was looking for.

apexi_rsx

most people in cali like the Jackson racing race header (JRRH) as it has a section where you bolt the test pipe in and you can put a short aftermarket catalytic converter in the test pipes place. its in a spot easy to be swapped out. its not the best performing header but is good quality the only thing it lacks is a flex pipe. most headers will gain the same a few hp or tq which isn't going to be much to feel in a " butt-dyno". the choice is yours. if you go on clubrsx or here and post in the classifieds to find one would be worth a shot. i am running one on my 06 type S i've had no problems with mine and got it all for 200 dollars. Power wise for the cheapest headers the DC sport is supposed to make the most peak hp. the toda or SSR which are expensive make a lot more hp and tq then the other cheap headers.. the 160hp si is weak in power and not worth spending outrageous money to make 5hp. id save for bigger mods like K-pro or Force induction to get the best bang for your buck to make more power because that 5hp you gain from the header your si will still be slow. the A3 head does not have vtec on intake and exhaust it only have vtec on the intake side is like the original D series vtec motors and will not respond to the header as well as the a2 or z1 head that has vtec on the exhaust side too.

jEromy

Honestly id just buy KPRO first. Raise your rev limiter to 75-7700 and tune it, and youll be faster. I have an I/Shorty header+cat/exhaust and honestly, i should have bought KPRO before the header, because its still pulling hard at redline, and you have to shift so early in first.

IMO, the KPRO is a much better purchase and will make your car faster/more driveable than the header will...

NEO_FOLLOWER2

i always hear that getting kpro for the stock ep3 is the best mod you can do.

but i'd imagine that'd put a lot of stress on your engine?

you'd end up breaking something really fast if you keep revving the stock motor too high?

B16AGUY

That is the exact same concern I have.
My Si is bone stock right now and I was thinking of going Kpro with just a few bolt-ons such as AEM V2 intake, a good header and calling it a day.

Just to make it a funner DD but how does it (Kpro) affect peoples reliability?
My old B16 was awesome for revving up and it;s true the A3 feels like you just start to tap into it power and then boom you hit the limiter.

apexi_rsx

get a real tune and it will be reliable just hooking up a base map isn't going to be reliable. unless you know someone that knows how to street tune getting K pro is pointless unless u plan to get it tuned some how.

NEO_FOLLOWER2

so what you're saying is stock internals will hold up even when you keep revving the motor higher than the stock rev limiter?

doood

iTrader: (1)

Don't hit the limiter everytime you drive

jEromy

The problem with revving the A3 out is that its crank isnt fully counterbalanced, and im not sure if the valvetrain is high rev worthy, but i havent researched the top end. IIRC, the reflash that Hondata offers raises the rev limit to 7700rpm, which would be ideal for an EP3 powerband wise. where is the OEM Revlimit? 7200? IMO, the extra 500 rpm wont shorten the life of your motor noticeably unless you are that high in the revs alot. I do 1-2-3 pulls in my EP3 almost daily, and i would feel safe doing that on a reflash, but i would also understand that my engine life IS shortened, but i plan on replacing the A3 with a K24Ax before i hit 100k miles (im at 55k ), so the shortened life isnt that big of a deal to me.

Cliffs:
Revving the A3 to 7700 will shorten the life, but not considerably.
Kpro > I/H/E. or Kpro > Header hehe

NEO_FOLLOWER2

i wouldnt say

kpro > i/h/e

kpro first then i/h/e

you'll get better hp/torque gains with kpro than if you just got i/h/e
just common sense

jEromy

Thats how i should have worded it

turbohatchBnuts

the verdict get kpro before you buy anything else for your car.

NoUsername84

Gotcha! Now that I'm switching gears into making this purchase first, I need to find an online place to make this buy. I know for a fact you can buy this from them direct, however quite pricey. eBay has some and so do other online retail stores, but you get what you pay for and I'd like to make sure I'm purchasing the correct and quality product. Any recommendations? Thank you everyone thus far!!

turbohatchBnuts

im going to get mine off ebay. theres a guy that sells them already installed in prb ecu
for $1225. if you just buy the hardware you will have to have it installed which you will have some down time with your car. do you plan on keeping it a 5spd or converting to 6spd in future?

NoUsername84

I haven't given any thought of going 6 speed. I mainly use it for distance/commuter and some play, nothing radical, it's a solid car. Are you entertaining me with the idea of an engine swap from an RSX S? Isn't that the same performance level as the Euros model "Civic Type R"??

turbohatchBnuts

well if you converted to a 6spd you would have to have a reverse lockout switch hook up to the ecu or you can make one. I personally like to try to keep it as factory as possible.
there fore i would get the prb ecu that has the reverse lock out. even if you dont i would consider the prb ecu to have that option. i would get the ecu with kpro to though. then your options for your car expand to endless possiblitys.

apexi_rsx

the hondata reflash moves the rev limiter to 8500 on the a2/z1 motors. im not too sure what it is raised to on the a3's,but im sure it's not as high as the a2/z1. im pretty sure it would take the revs but i wouldn't be taking it to redline every time you lay on the throttle. raising the rev limiter will not net that much more power most honda motors begin to fall off in power at redline from the factory. honda set the ecu this way because they have done much testing and this was the bes configuration in stock form.

turbohatchBnuts

This reflash is specifically tuned for the USDM Civic Si K20A3.

K20A3-Si ECU flash program 7700 rpm REV limit - $295
Hondata does not sell direct - all sales and payment must be conducted through Hondata dealers. The upgrade information form must be sent with your ECU.

Details

The K20A3-Si program advances the ignition, alters the cam timing and optimizes the fuel for a cold air intake, adding 4-9 ft lb across the rev range.

2002 Civic Si, stock and with K20A3-Si Flash program.





10-12 Peak HP gain depending on the dyno and modifications
4-9 ft lb torque across the rev range
Power peak raised 400 rpm from 6300 rpm to 6700 rpm (higher with headers)
Rev limiter raised to 7700 rpm.
Fully dealer compatible - works with all Honda scan tools and equipment.
0-60 mph times improved by 1 second.

rjmq06

this reflash is good if youre not racing just for DD and to squeeze out some power out from this motor