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1994 NSX #41

 
Old 09-07-2018, 08:10 PM
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Awesome!!! Love it.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:46 PM
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MotorMouth93 - any cure for static volume **** on oem radio ?.. i been living with it for years, even with the slightest touch, omg, the static noise bout crack my speakers.. but after may 20 mins, static noise lessen.. i spray with those electro spray and did help for a bit, but didn't fix it tho.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:04 PM
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droopy128 Mine has lots of static in the volume **** too, I've heard that taking it apart and spraying contact cleaner directly into the potentiometer can fix it but I haven't tried it yet. I'll report back once I do.

I started on the LMA job over the weekend, and when it came time to pull the rocker shafts out, disaster struck. One of the 10mm allen key rocker shaft bolts was pretty stuck from not being touched in 25 years and rounded out, space is tight and I didn't want to risk damage to the cylinder head so the engine is going to have to come out. I'm probably going to break from tradition and pay someone else to do it since I don't have the equipment needed to lift the car off of the motor and pulling it out the top isn't an option, and since the clutch is original and has over 100k miles on it and is starting to chatter a bit. I'll just have that replaced along with a few other things that are much easier with the engine out and knock out a bunch of stuff at once like all the water hoses, various gaskets, etc. It will be pricey but I'd have to do it sooner or later, so might as well now.
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Old 10-18-2018, 06:27 AM
  #129  
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Default Re: 1994 NSX #41

Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
droopy128 Mine has lots of static in the volume **** too, I've heard that taking it apart and spraying contact cleaner directly into the potentiometer can fix it but I haven't tried it yet. I'll report back once I do.

I started on the LMA job over the weekend, and when it came time to pull the rocker shafts out, disaster struck. One of the 10mm allen key rocker shaft bolts was pretty stuck from not being touched in 25 years and rounded out, space is tight and I didn't want to risk damage to the cylinder head so the engine is going to have to come out. I'm probably going to break from tradition and pay someone else to do it since I don't have the equipment needed to lift the car off of the motor and pulling it out the top isn't an option, and since the clutch is original and has over 100k miles on it and is starting to chatter a bit. I'll just have that replaced along with a few other things that are much easier with the engine out and knock out a bunch of stuff at once like all the water hoses, various gaskets, etc. It will be pricey but I'd have to do it sooner or later, so might as well now.
ewww good call on not touching it. I've been in similar situations where i wish i would have left it alone and i ended up paying for it in the end.
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Old 10-20-2018, 09:43 PM
  #130  
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A) Great thread, I've just skimmed most of it. I was actually living in Northern CO when you bought your car and made it to a couple of C&C events at the Vault and places.
B) Bummer on the rocker shaft bolt. I've heard at least one quasi-legend of an NSX tech talk about deliberately working on certain parts of the car with the engine "hot" (basically they're quick enough they can drive the car up to operating temp and then get things torn down far enough before it cools much) explicitly to avoid this type of thing. I am not that quick either, lol.
C) Regarding your clutch. If you don't have any power adder (SC/TT), then it's pretty broadly agreed that the OEM twin plate is best. There are some comparably priced alternatives, but one of them chatters, one of them makes the pedal heavy, and one of them requires some weird helper system to work without making the pedal heavy. I put ~10 years, ~60k miles, ~60 track days, and a very big number of autocross launches on an OE clutch and it still had ~30% life left when I replaced it during another engine-out job.
D) When you do the coolant hoses, check out A.S. motorsports. They now make the 8 or so main hoses in silicone (available in black if you want to keep oe look) so less worries about them exploding (which they are prone to....ask me how I know). No affiliation, just learned about the offering at NSXPO.

Good luck!
-fellow owner of a black NSX...and yeah, so many swirl marks
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:20 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by LapoftheWorld View Post
A) Great thread, I've just skimmed most of it. I was actually living in Northern CO when you bought your car and made it to a couple of C&C events at the Vault and places.
B) Bummer on the rocker shaft bolt. I've heard at least one quasi-legend of an NSX tech talk about deliberately working on certain parts of the car with the engine "hot" (basically they're quick enough they can drive the car up to operating temp and then get things torn down far enough before it cools much) explicitly to avoid this type of thing. I am not that quick either, lol.
C) Regarding your clutch. If you don't have any power adder (SC/TT), then it's pretty broadly agreed that the OEM twin plate is best. There are some comparably priced alternatives, but one of them chatters, one of them makes the pedal heavy, and one of them requires some weird helper system to work without making the pedal heavy. I put ~10 years, ~60k miles, ~60 track days, and a very big number of autocross launches on an OE clutch and it still had ~30% life left when I replaced it during another engine-out job.
D) When you do the coolant hoses, check out A.S. motorsports. They now make the 8 or so main hoses in silicone (available in black if you want to keep oe look) so less worries about them exploding (which they are prone to....ask me how I know). No affiliation, just learned about the offering at NSXPO.

Good luck!
-fellow owner of a black NSX...and yeah, so many swirl marks
Iíve never heard of intentionally working on a hot car before but I can see how it could be helpful for stuff like that.

I actually already ordered a factory clutch kit so Iím glad to hear positive things about it. I also ordered factory coolant hoses so itís a bit late for silicone unfortunately. The factory hoses have lasted 25 years/100k miles so far though so Iím not super worried.
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Old 11-27-2018, 03:07 PM
  #132  
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Got the car back from the shop, it did not go well. When I got it back the (brand new) valve cover gaskets leaked oil due to poor installation, radiator leaked coolant, and way too much Hondabond was used. This was at an Acura dealership with a good reputation for NSX service. Oh well, a few hours of my time later and everything seems to be as it should be again.

Anyways.

After taking my headlights apart in July expecting a quick week or two project, I finally finished my HID retrofit 4 months later.



The most time consuming part of this was the wiring. At first I was just going to tweak the factory headlight harnesses a bit and install the ballasts behind the light assemblies. That didn't end up working out though because the factory wiring is old and fairly high resistance, and the ballasts wouldn't reliably ignite the bulbs using that setup. I bought the OrganizedGarageStatus kit that included the Morimoto projectors, projector brackets, and clear lenses.

The ballasts I'm using are the tried and true Hella gen 3 found in many many cars over the past 20ish years. They're easy to find, relatively cheap, 100% weatherproof, and very reliable. They typically come with D2S connectors but I cut them off and soldered on AMP connectors to run them with the Morimoto H1 bulbs, then sealed the connection using adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. This is the first iteration with very short wires, along the way I redid the solders with longer wires when I changed the ballast mounting position.



This was my first ballast mounting solution: zip ties. I wasn't happy with this either, which was another factor in my scrapping of this method.



First headlight wire harness, it was a modified factory harness.



I didn't like it so I made my own from scratch after sourcing the factory plug components, but the 9005 plugs I bought didn't fit in the NSX housing so these were scrapped too, and I ended up reusing the original NSX plugs.



Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the final headlight harness, but rather than a 9006 plug coming out the back for the ballast, it had a smaller waterproof connector that goes to a relay that controls the ballast. I made these (not particularly pretty) ballast and relay brackets from aluminum.



Passenger side mounted.



Driver side mounted.



Everything wired up. I didn't want to drill anything or poke holes in grommets so I ran the ballast turn-on signal and the HID bulb wires in front of the headlight weather seal, then zip-tied it to the factory harness that allows the lights to go up and down, then finally into the connectors at the back of the lights.

(I forgot to upload the picture here I'll do it in a little while)


To align the lights, I built this rudimentary jig to hold the lights perfectly horizontal while I set the alignment of the HID projects and high beam projectors.



Test wiring setup: the car battery with a 9006 and 9005 plug.



Headlights installed.







The output is absolutely amazing, it blows away any of the drop in HID solutions, like absolutely no comparison whatsoever. The OrganizedGarageStatus clear lenses, while pricey, make a huge difference as well, the factory glass lenses distort the output too much and lose clarity as they chip over time.



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Old 11-27-2018, 03:34 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
Got the car back from the shop, it did not go well. When I got it back the (brand new) valve cover gaskets leaked oil due to poor installation, radiator leaked coolant, and way too much Hondabond was used. This was at an Acura dealership with a good reputation for NSX service. Oh well, a few hours of my time later and everything seems to be as it should be again.
If you get lucky and have a good mechanic that's brilliant, but sadly all too often going to dealers can be disappointing and you figure I could do better myself.

And yet again MM your attention to detail and passing on of knowledge is a welcome pleasure to read. And one reason why I like old style forums for this kinda thing. Arsebook is OK, but in car pages, it usually boils down to "check out pictures of my **** hot car", or "check out pictures of my **** hot car/parts I'm trying to sell"


Now that's a cool front MM. The "face" and "smile" of the car reminds me of some likeable but don't **** him off cartoon Japanese robot. And that's so not a bad thing.


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Old 11-28-2018, 07:29 AM
  #134  
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Default Re: 1994 NSX #41

that is a great looking cutoff you got out of those
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Old 11-28-2018, 11:32 PM
  #135  
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Cut off looks deadly, great work as usual.
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:37 PM
  #136  
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Yeah the Morimoto projectors are really nice for the price, the Mini H1s are absolutely tiny too, you could almost fit them into fog lights.

Anyways, here's the forgotten picture of the HID wiring. Strangely enough this is the part I'm most proud of and probably the most time consuming part. I wasn't happy with any of the existing HID wiring diagrams or methods I found for this car so I started from scratch, but maybe this can save someone else some time in the future.



From the battery terminals both 12 gauge wires run up to the fuse block (bolted where the spare tire holder used to attach) which houses a 40A fuse, I might be able to lower it to a 30 or 25 but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.

From there they split off into 16 gauge segments running around each side to the relays mounted next to the ballasts.

From each relay there is a short bit of wire connecting to the ballasts.

The ballasts have ignitors built in so the wires run around the front of the head light weather stripping and back into the bucket and up into the folding portion alongside the factory wiring.

The custom headlight harnesses split the high beam signal into two, one going to the bi-xenon projector high beam solenoid and the other going to the factory halogen high beam projectors. The low beam signal doesn't go into the light housing at all, and instead plugs into the relay coil wires which go back around the weather stripping and back to the relay.

The Morimoto H1 bulbs have AMP connectors and a built in rubber grommet on the wires, so I just drilled the appropriate sized hole in the headlight housing cap, ran the wires through, and put the grommet in place.

The wires going from the battery to the ballasts are sheathed in regular wire loom, while the wires from the ballasts into the buckets use braided nylon sheathing for better flexibility and because it just look good.

Also the car is filthy, I can't wait to get the 540 out of the garage (motor swap in progress :/ ...) so I can give the NSX a full detailing again. I also have a new radiator and mounting grommets on the way since the top seal on mine is seeping a bit.
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:54 PM
  #137  
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Default Re: 1994 NSX #41

Sounds like you built the exact same harness I did for my Integra retrofit almost 15 years ago. I'm also using Philips LVQ-212 ballasts which I believe are identical to the Hella Gen 3, and my ballasts are 16 years old and still working perfectly!
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Old 12-05-2018, 09:27 AM
  #138  
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Yeah I love these old ballasts, I have a friend who used Morimoto ballasts for a retrofit and has had 1 or 2 failures in less than 2 years, whereas I've been using junkyard ballasts for the past couple years with no problems at all. When the Integra was wrecked I took the ballasts and used them in the NSX, and those ballasts were from a 2001ish Audi of some sort that cost me like $5 each at the local pick-your-part lot.

The only issue I'm seeing is that the voltage drop from the headlight motors activating at the same time as the headlights can sometimes cause enough voltage drop so that only one of the HID bulbs ignites.

Also, now the front valve cover gasket is leaking too. How do you botch BOTH valve covers with the engine out of the car? That's just straight up careless and lazy, so looks like I get to redo this one too...
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:43 AM
  #139  
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It's been a while, I've mainly been busy dealing with the motor swap on the 540i and the associated woes, which still aren't all resolved. I found that there's some pretty bad scoring in one of the VANOS oil distribution housings so I get to pull all the timing stuff off again. It runs fine but it makes the typical VANOS clunking sound and I'm seeing some oscillation in the timing advance on the bank with the scoring.

Anyways...



Started off by fixing the coolant leaks that appeared after the dealership worked on the car. They tried to blame the brand new OEM coolant hose (which wasn't leaking) which I had bought myself so conveniently wasn't a warranty issue by claiming it didn't fit properly (it fit just fine). Turned out they had tried to reuse the drain plug and bleeder plug O-rings which had been completely flattened by old age and were leaking, but it was close to the hose so I guess they didn't look closely. Then after swapping out those O-rings I found that they top seal of the radiator was seeping a bit too, I can't really blame the dealership for this though as it's 25 years old and it was bound to give up eventually, and I think being jostled around while the hoses were being swapped out was enough to push it over the edge. If you look at the previous photo of the front bay you can see coolant residue all around the top of the radiator where the plastic top is crimped to the core.



I wanted to buy an OEM radiator but those are out of stock in the entire US with no estimated date of arrival so I went with an aftermarket all aluminum Koyo radiator. Whether it lasts as long as OEM remains to be seen but it appears to be good quality. With the radiator removed I also cleaned out the front bay, radiator shroud, and pretty much everything else I could get to up there, then replaced the rubber radiator mounting grommets as the old ones were getting hard.





Everything cleaned and reassembled. I found the washer fluid tank completely full of regular water...I have literally never used the washer fluid but when I had the bumper off a year or so ago I made sure it was at the correct level with actual wiper fluid, so I guess this is another nice easter egg from the dealer. After sucking it all out with a big syringe I filled it back up for wiper fluid where it will continue to go unused.



The AC idler pulley had some play in it so I swapped that out too, and at the same time learned an important lesson about buying bearings on Amazon. The first Amazon bearing had the center hole too small despite having the same part number. The second Amazon bearing seemed to be the right size but was stamped "JAPAN" while being shipped from China....I don't know about you, but to me that screams counterfeit, so no go there too. Finally I wised up and stopped buying cheap crap on Amazon and bought one through a legit bearing supplier and it worked great, all in all I think I spent like $40 on all the bearings which is still half the price of a new idler pulley from Honda so I still came out ahead. Swapping them out was fairly simple, beat the old one out, tap the new one in with a big socket.



There's a fellow NSX owner who sells weather stripping kits to keep water from dumping on the rear bank coils so I installed that.



When the dealer pulled the cams apparently they didn't even bother to check the valve clearance, or they just did a terrible job of it, you decide. There was a ton of valvetrain noise so I did the front bank first since it seemed the noisiest but I still need to do the rears. I'm getting reallll tired of redoing valve cover gaskets.



I also finally pulled the trigger on wheel spacers, 15mm front and 25mm rear. For the past month or so I've been dealing with a weird vibration at high speeds, I narrowed it down to the cheapo 5mm spacers I had on the rear wheels to keep the tires from rubbing on the Bilstein spring perches. With the spacers gone the tires could touch the perches under some circumstances, so I found a good deal from a fellow owner on some proper H&R spacers.

The rears were simple, they had built in studs so swapping them out took a few minutes, the fronts need extended studs though which were much more time consuming. The front studs won't come out without separating the hub and bearing and the generally accepted solution is to grind a millimeter or so off the carrier. With the old ones out it was a simple job of getting the new studs in using an impact gun and an open ended lug/washer to seat it.



The NSX front hubs are super easy to work with, just 4 easily accessible nuts hold the hubs to the knuckle.



I'm really happy with how my DIY powder coated brake calipers are holding up, they still look perfect ~18 months later.



Fronts done, MUCH better fitment. I'll try to post some better pictures when I get the chance.



Edit: Here's some not-great pictures of the wheel fitment.




Last edited by MotorMouth93; 01-24-2019 at 02:46 PM.
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:38 PM
  #140  
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Holy *****, I just went through this whole thread at work. Didn't do ****, was so into this build lulz! I has questions! MotorMouth93

Are you close to getting that house?
Are you still with the same gf? Have to ask because I laughed pretty good when you said you couldn't devote as much time as when you were single to the car.
Is the NSX as good as people say? You still have it so I imagine you still really enjoy it but in the beginning you say it was your best worse financial decision. Any regrets?
The dealership pisses me off (Comment more so than question.....)
Maybe I missed it but what happened with the 540, engine out? Still have it?
Do you think you'll keep this car forever?

******* awesome stuff you've done to this car. One of the few threads that makes me want to get my dream car now and bring it back to pristine like this.
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Old 02-15-2019, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 09chaplak View Post
Holy *****, I just went through this whole thread at work. Didn't do ****, was so into this build lulz! I has questions! MotorMouth93

Are you close to getting that house?
Are you still with the same gf? Have to ask because I laughed pretty good when you said you couldn't devote as much time as when you were single to the car.
Is the NSX as good as people say? You still have it so I imagine you still really enjoy it but in the beginning you say it was your best worse financial decision. Any regrets?
The dealership pisses me off (Comment more so than question.....)
Maybe I missed it but what happened with the 540, engine out? Still have it?
Do you think you'll keep this car forever?

******* awesome stuff you've done to this car. One of the few threads that makes me want to get my dream car now and bring it back to pristine like this.
To answer two questions at once, I didn't end up buying a house because I'm moving in with the girlfriend.

Well, I mean I'm biased but I like it, it's a very unique and raw driving experience in a world filled with electric power steering and automatic transmissions, but on the other hand a V6 Camry can take me lol.

I have a thread for the 540 on BimmerForums here if you're interested...but I got the motor swapped out and its running well aside from a few hiccups. I need to redo the cam phaser sprockets, one of the parts I used ended up having some bad scoring on a seal surface that I didn't catch at the time so the cam advance on bank 2 isn't very precise and it makes a (harmless but annoying) clunking noise and might be a bit down on low end torque.

I don't see myself getting rid of it, I'd like to keep it forever.
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:42 AM
  #142  
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but on the other hand a V6 Camry can take me lol.
I feel like that's something that guys who drive older sports cars say a lot but it isn't true at all. You could take a brand new v6 Camry in 0-60 and quarter mile easily. Maybe because you're running a stock NA1 NSX it'd be closer, but the extra 20 hp of an NA2 isn't all that much more. You would definitely beat him right off the line with a much better 60'. A stock NA2 NSX will actually beat the new Civic R in 1/4 and 0-60.
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Old 02-18-2019, 12:50 PM
  #143  
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I think you're right, launching a Camry and getting magazine numbers is pretty tricky since it suffers from weight transfer off the driven wheels and in the quarter mile there's nearly a second of difference.
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