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1994 NSX #41

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Old 08-27-2017, 08:25 AM   #76
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Default Re: 1994 NSX #41

This thread is almost always the first thread I go to on Honda-tech. That exhaust sounds great pulling away! How do your brakes feel now? Much better?
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:13 PM   #77
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I'm glad you enjoy it!

The pedal feels much better and doesn't sink anymore with the new MC but the problem I tend to have with fresh calipers is that there are tons of little places for air to get trapped that will just take time to work their way out. I had the same problem with the new calipers on the Integra, I would just keep bleeding and bleeding and each time I thought I was done I'd get a few more tiny bubbles. Rather than run through a ton of brake fluid trying to get it all out at first I'm just driving the car for a while then will go back and bleed the brakes again in a week or so to get rid of the tiny amount of air still in there.

Last edited by MotorMouth93; 08-28-2017 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:44 PM   #78
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A few weeks ago I settled on the Blackvue DR470-2CH dash cam for this car, reasons being because it's capacitor based so works well in high heat like we have in Texas, fairly no frills and elegantly designed, and it has 2 separate cameras to record both in front of the car and behind the car. The downside to this is that an extra wire to connect to the rear camera has to be hidden, but since I was planning on removing the headliner to do the install I wasn't too worried.

Taking the headliner out according to the manual is an insanely long and brutal process that requires removing the seats and most of the interior panels, however I was able to do it just by pulling back the weather stripping, removing the A pillar covers, and popping out the top clips of the B-pillar covers and bending them back enough to get the headliner out. Nothing broke and it ended up being a fairly quick and easy process.

With the headliner out I had access to the guts of the dome light assembly, and since the main 3-position switch had gotten pretty finicky I took it apart and found the contacts heavily corroded. Getting to the switch guts is simple, just remove the two screws holding the top part down and pull it back as shown.



Scrubbing them off with a green scotch bright pad worked very well. Same for the contacts on the slider portion. After cleaning everything up I liberally applied dielectric grease to all the contacts to slow down future corrosion and reassembled, the switch works flawlessly now. Not that interesting but it might help someone in the future so here it is.





Anyways, with the headliner pulled down I was able to easily route the cables for the dash cam setup using small bits of paint safe tape to secure the wire.. The cable to connect the front to the rear was about 20 feet long, and since it's a RG174 coaxial cable with proprietary connectors there isn't really a way to shorten it without seriously degrading signal quality so I just coiled it up in the back, it's a bit messy but given the circumstances I'm not sure what else I could have done about it.



With the headliner out, I took the opportunity to really get it clean. It had a bunch of small markings from almost 25 years of use, so letting it soak in a 5:1 dilution of Optimum Power Clean (amazing general purpose detailing cleaner BTW) for a minute or so then wiping down with a microfiber cloth made it look almost new. There's a few corners in the skin that are pulling away a bit but it's not really noticeable with the liner in the car and definitely not worth several hundred dollars to fix. I also replaced the plastic clips that hold it up for good measure.



Everything reassembled, the mirror completely hides the front dash cam from the drivers seat view and the rear camera is just a blurb in the rear mirror, overall a pretty clean install if I do say so myself. It's still powered by the cigarette lighter though, so when I remove the center console plastics to refinish them I'll hardwire it into the accessory power circuit for a completely invisible install.



Also, I changed the oil last weekend since I'm coming up on 5000 miles since the last change, I have a Blackstone Labs kit so I took a sample to have analyzed, should be interesting to see the results.

And a bit of bad news, when I went to drive the car after putting the interior back together I found that the clutch master cylinder had run dry and was barely working, apparently it developed a leak recently so I guess I get to replace that too....
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:41 AM   #79
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Another minor update, I picked up the Cedar Ridge Fabrication heavy duty timing belt shield for $60 with the sale they had going, and since I had some powder left over from my brake calipers I bead blasted it and powder coated it black.



Installation was pretty simple, just loosen the alternator and AC belt tensioners, remove belts, remove crank pulley, install shield. Took about an hour start to finish. The fit is spot on and IMO the black powdercoat came out great. Now I just need to replace the crank pulley for good measure, but now that the shield is there I don't need to worry about it so much.



And coming up next: refinishing my peeling interior trim pieces. I used to build model airplanes and had good experiences with Testors enamel paints, so I bought a few different colors including black and metallic silver so I'm going to start mixing them to try to match the factory finish as closely as possible, then airbrush it on. Since the factory finish is a chrome (or more likely aluminum) plated base with a semi-translucent film on top, perfectly matching the sheen will be impossible but I should be able to get it close enough that anyone who doesn't know what it originally looked like won't see anything out of place, especially once finished with a satin clear coat.
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:01 AM   #80
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Not being single anymore has made it a bit more difficult to devote my life to this car, but here's another update.

I started off by replacing the super long rear dash cam cable with a much more appropriate one and moving the rear camera to the passenger side so it's not constantly visible in the rear view camera. It's much more out of the way now which I like, and the cable isn't wrapped all over the place anymore either.



I also decided I needed more head room, I'm 6'1" and had MAYBE 1/2" of head room, so I cut about an inch of foam out of the bottom of the seat and it makes a bigger difference than you'd think. At first I attempted a "hot wire" approach that involved a hack saw blade, a propane torch, and some dangerous smelling fumes (see the burned stripe across the back of the bottom of the cushion?) but that didn't work so I just used a hacksaw properly to cut straight across the bottom of the seat foam, and then used zip ties instead of hog rings since for the reassembly since I absolutely hate hog rings. Overall it isn't noticeable at all and seat comfort seems unchanged.













Also picked up a set of sun visors to replace mine that are splitting like crazy, the new ones have giant air bag warnings on them though which is annoying... For whatever reason Acura has discontinued them in North America so I had to order them from some guy running an NSX parts shop in Japan.



I also starting taking apart the interior to repaint the trip pieces, then discovered that it takes weeks for the ferric chloride to dissolve the coating on them, so in the meantime I decided to take care of a few others things, so I replaced the clutch cylinders.

After doing some research I found that the cheap Centric branded clutch master and slave cylinders are the exact same parts as the OEM cylinders, but less than half the price. Sure enough, the markings are identical and the master cylinder are both Nissin and the slave cylinders are both made by AS.



While I was replacing the clutch cylinders I decided to install a ScienceOfSpeed clutch damper delete kit since the clutch damper doesn't do a whole lot besides wear down the clutch faster. It's a much cleaner look too since it gets rid of a bracket and extra tube, as well as replaces the rubber line with a stainless line. I'm not a fan of stainless lines but since it's the clutch and not the brakes I can tolerate it. My only real issue with this kit is that the fitting to connect the SS hose to the new slave cylinder was just ever so slightly too large to fit, so I had to sand it with 800 grit sandpaper for a proper fit. After removing one of the brackets I found that the holes were pretty sticky so I ran an M6x1.0mm tap through them and wire-wheeled the bolts for good measure.





With the door panels and center console out I decided it was time to come up with a final solution for the stereo. I have yet to see an actually good looking aftermarket radio install in an NSX, some look okay but mostly they just look tacky, and I don't need audiophile-level sound in this car since I mainly want to hear the exhaust anyways, so I decided to just rebuild the factory amplifiers and get an aux adapter that plugs into the CD changer port on the radio since it gives much better quality than my tape player aux adapter does. As far as I can tell, my amplifiers hadn't actually failed yet, but it's a lot easier to rebuild them before the capacitors start leaking than it is after because the electrolyte damages the circuit traces and just makes everything more difficult, and parts cost almost nothing.

During the rebuild process, I found a bunch of rat poison in the subwoofer box...my only guess is that a mouse set up camp after crawling in through the port then grabbed a bunch of poison bait pellets and stashed them in there. The weird thing is I haven't seen any other evidence of rodents in this car at all, no chewed wires or carpet, no droppings, nothing. I almost think that the sub box must have come from another car and been used to replace the original, since the capacitors in the subwoofer amplifier were different than the ones in the door speaker amp.



After obsessively cleaning up everything in the vicinity of the box after discovering the rat poison, I took it all apart and washed everything with hot soapy water to get rid of any traces of the poison remaining and went ahead with the amplifier rebuild. New capacitors, new MOSFETs, and new conformal coating.



I also fixed a few broken tabs on the speaker box and door panel. Since they are made from ABS plastic I just bought a 12"x12" sheet of 1/8" thick ABS plastic on Amazon, cut pieces to fit the broken tabs, dremeled away the old tabs, and solvent welded the new ones on. So far they seem to be plenty strong but only time will tell how well this fix holds up, I still need to drill the holes and clean up the edges a bit.



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Old 11-14-2017, 01:29 AM   #81
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I don't know what to say, I mean, there is nothing to say about this NSX.
You are really doing it good.
Just keep posting man. :D
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:27 AM   #82
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Default Re: 1994 NSX #41

i can only imagine the WFT moment when you found the poison pellets lol
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