silverskateEF9

I have a long block Type R engine freshly rebuilt waiting at the shop, with new cams, pistons, etc. - what is the proper procedure for breaking it in?

Doostur

Someone else posted this and saved it, here you go. Keep in mind everyone will have their own opinion on the best break in prodedure.

let the engine idle for 10 min then idle at 2000 rpm for 10 min. turn car off and let it settle for about 5-10 min.

0-200 miles.
Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles,spin the engine to 4500 rpm in first and sometimes in second gear.

200-400 miles.
Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the revs rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.

400-600 miles.
Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the revs to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency as above.

600-800 miles.
4500 rpm driving limit. rev it to 7000 rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.

800-1K miles.
5000 rpm limit with revs to 7500 with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.


Use non synthetic oil for the first 500 miles, change oil with non synthetic,(it is not necessary to change the filter) then once you meet the 1000 mile mark go ahead and change it with a full synthetic and a new oil filter.

Using regular - non-synthetic - is also at your option, but pick one or the other to use from this point forward. Chaging back and forth is NOT a good idea.

citrus3000psi

I thought the break-in depeneded on what type of pistons where chosen. Cast or fordged

fuko

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

if i were rebuild the motor in my ITR i'd no doubt go this way again

Doostur

^ Good info wiht the link. Made me laugh though:

'Warning:
This is a very controversial topic !!'

RagingAngel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

if i were rebuild the motor in my ITR i'd no doubt go this way again </TD></TR></TABLE>

Something that happened on a certain DC5 from what I recall....

Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett

iTrader: (2)

What Fuko said. Hard and safe, on the dyno

ITR.#1446

good topic i was gonna research this soon

SuckMyDOHC

iTrader: (1)

Good info, i'll be using this soon for my rebuilt motor. I know you're supposed to use regular conventional oil, but I saw that a few companies make break in oil and additives. Anyone ever use these?


http://www.steveschmidtracing.....html
http://www.naparts.com/Product...16755
and I believe NAPA also has a break-in oil branded under their name

RagingAngel

just by going off those links, odd that you can't purchase just one bottle to try for the Joe Gibbs stuff.

IIRC, I think it was Mike K who took the oil pan off a fresh OEM shortblock and discovered Honda's OEM break-in oil - there was maybe half a quart he mentioned?

It would be good to be able to determine just what Honda uses too.

SuckMyDOHC

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RagingAngel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just by going off those links, odd that you can't purchase just one bottle to try for the Joe Gibbs stuff.

IIRC, I think it was Mike K who took the oil pan off a fresh OEM shortblock and discovered Honda's OEM break-in oil - there was maybe half a quart he mentioned?

It would be good to be able to determine just what Honda uses too.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't from that site, but I can from my distributor. I'll probably just buy 5 quarts and use it once I get my motor back. Same price as amsoil

twelvetm

everyone will tell you their own opinion, so its up to you to trust what you know, im more of a break it in on the dyno guy

RedR

break it in on the dyno while its being tuned. I wouldnt even drive it around untuned.
There is an interesting article on http://www.laskeyracing.com

AW

Just did this technique but on the street and the motor seems to be running smooth and my burning oil problem seems to be resolved. More miles will tell me if it worked. Power seems to be good as well.

Comp97GSR

I just broke in a new C5 s/b that I put in the GSR. I went the safe route and took it easy with varing loads and rpms. Once I got about 600 mi on it I followed the other procedure and did some low rpm wot pulls. Doesn't burn any oil. Granted, this is in my DD so longivity is my goal with this motor.

redline32

I have put together and tuned 3 of lasky's motors,,my first one Earl told me to run it for 15min or so checking for leaks, then strap heR down and tune it. He said improper a/f on a fresh motor would kill it much quicker than getting a solid a/f from the get..Held true so far 3 years of hard boost'n with no issues yet

silverskateEF9

I spoke with a shop that has a dyno, and talked to them about this break-in procedure. They agreed that it's a good idea to get on the throttle and put a load on the engine to break it in, but recommended against revving into VTEC range, as they believe that VTEC because of its high RPMs put a severe load on new engines and can distort new rings that haven't fully broken in yet. They reminded me that in the owner's manual for S2000s it is advised for the driver to stay out of VTEC for the first 1000 miles. What do you think?

godnf8

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm

Evs-One

cylinder pressure with proper tuning will be your best bet for seating in rings properly.

It does not take 1k miles to seat rings.

Break it in like you're going to drive it- that's what I've always done.

GRM Scott

Recently, one of our guys got a tour of the BMW factory in Germany. The cars roll off the assembly line and onto a special rolling alignment deal where a technician adjusts the alignment. Then each car goes to a chassis dyno. At the dyno, a technician winds it out through a few gears and then stomps on it to do a dyno pull until the brand-new engine is bouncing off the rev limiter.

Then, presumably, somebody buys the BMW and drives it like a pansy for 600 miles thinking they're breaking it in.

Rdriver

I wonder if Honda's "break in oil" is just a mixture of oil and assymbly lube? A hard break in makes a stronger motor.

The Dude

you can buy break in oil at any NAPA.

fuko

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRM Scott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then, presumably, somebody buys the BMW and drives it like a pansy for 600 miles thinking they're breaking it in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

and then there are the guys that move your car onto the truck, from the truck to the dock, from the port back onto a truck, lot boys, techs (PDI), wash guys etc.

to not bang your ***** wife/gf the first chance you get is just silly - "saving it for marriage"