ActiveAero

I've having problems with my stock wheel studs and lug nuts. I've already rung off one stud and had it replaced. Now several more are getting tight as I try to loosen them. It is keeping me from changing out my rims and rotating my tires for fear of breaking more off. I'm thinking of just replacing all of them with a stronger set and some good lug nuts to compliment them. Any suggestions?

acuracing

I broke off so many of the studs. Honda should realize they are a problem. I did go ahead and change all of mine before. It wasn't too expensive and it was peace of mind that I could "start over."

Reid

The problem I've been hearing isn't seizing, but rather the Skunk2 studs sheering off.

purplehazek4

spoon makes wheel studs as well and they're 10mm longer.
about eight bucks a piece it's not too bad

FSTASNTZ

ARP...

Jason

Reid

This is what I use.

If I were you, George, I would remove the Skunk2 studs ASAP and install ARP units.

Frosty_spl

A lot of guys run moroso ones, i dont remember the thread pitch and such, but they are the same as the skunk ones and cost around 8 bucks for 10. ( i think, they are a whole lot cheaper anyway).

Wai

I think the Skunk2 studs are the same as the Z-speed ones. If yes that I would not recommend it..... Here are mine:


I ended up buying the Spoon ones (10mm longer) and have been using anti-seize. No problem so far (~3 yrs). In your case, I think using anti-seize should solve the problem.

Tweakmeister

how many of you put anti-seize on the studs?

jeff652

iTrader: (1)

Read:

http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/arp_studs/


HTH
Jeff

If You Slip You Die

TurboITR

skunk 2s are garbage get rid of them while you still have a choice - i used arps (for a camaro) and they work great - i have had 0 problems with them

Downey

ARP.

rolow

MY skunk2 almost left me stranded at the track

Honda318dx

I raced at VIR and Summit w/ skunk2 studs, they didn't break... Also have changed the tires several times.. granted, I havn't heard much good stuff about them, but mine havn't broken yet...

magic hat #9

use permatex anti-sieze with oem studs & nuts. you are breaking studs due to: human error or corrosion causing binding between the stud/nut. my lugnuts go on and off like butta'. try anti-sieze before you blow money on aftermarket.

chad

i'm going with junk2's too....and they aren't junk just say that cause...well i have a hatchcrapper

specie

where is the cheapest place to get a set of ARP?

kkim

very good question. with anti-seize and a torque wrench I would think your problem should disappear.

But then I see very knowledgable people here posting that they have been having the same snapping problems. Care to enlighten us on what the problems are with snapping studs? I assume you guys are using AS and a torque wrench, so is this a racing fatigue problem?


[Modified by kkim, 4:26 PM 1/5/2003]

jond

Stupid question. Will motor oil do the same thing as the fancy anti-seize stuff?

.

smokin rubber

no motor oil is not the same,. got to your local auto parts store and buy some anti-size, it's in a little squeeze tube and is only a dollar or two. It's good for spark plugs too.

Jack Black

Problem with motor oil is that it may burn off when the brakes heat up. Anti-seize is made with a metallic lubricant in addition to the petroleum-based lube, so it won't burn off. In fact, my dad used to have a type of anti-seize that was a powder, and it worked just as well as the traditional paste type. Main problem with it was that it got all over everything.

jond

Damn. Glad I asked

Willard

anti-seize and a torque wrench (used correctly) = safe studs all of my life.

ZygSpeed

antisieze
"protection"