jdm_teg_gs

Hey Guys,

For the past few months my ITR has had trouble starting and i'm not sure what it could be. Obvious solution would be the starter, but I don't think it is, since is starts fine 80% of the time. The problem occurs when you drive the car for about 1/2 hour and then shut it off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then once you go to restart it cranks for a good 5 seconds and finally starts. It eventually starts but it sounds like a vehicle that is having trouble starting in winter weather. Complete tune-up was done a few months ago.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Jeff

GO-FIGHT-KILL

When it's having trouble starting, turn the key to the 'Power' position, and listen for the fuel pump to prime. If you do not hear it, it's more than likely a bad Main Relay is causing the issue. Basically, when the relay heats up, it doens't make its connection like it does when it's cold.

It's a simple fix if that's the problem, should be about $60 brand new at Honda.


Modified by GO-FIGHT-KILL at 8:32 AM 6/28/2008

B18Ch1ck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do not hear it, it's more than likely a bad Main Relay is causing the issue. Basically, when the relay heats up, it doens't make its connection like it does when it's cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, the heat situation makes it sound like a main relay. You can also resolder the connections yourself. linky: "Cracked solder in your EFI Main Relay"

neof69

Main Relay

jdm_teg_gs

Thanks guys, much appreciated.
I'm heading to Honda for a Main Relay.

neo_

Are you running a stock ECU?

crx(gator)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_teg_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys, much appreciated.
I'm heading to Honda for a Main Relay.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no need to, look at the previous post that shows you how to fix it for free...

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx(gator) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no need to, look at the previous post that shows you how to fix it for free...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I resoldered my connections in my old hatch, and my main relay was fixed for a few weeks before it took a **** again.

Josayeee

I actually have the exact same problem. Please tell me if that fixed it.

I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet but I also found this reply on a local forum posted by a guy who owns a 97 Teg. The title thread title was called a "clifford alarm problems". He has the same exact problem as you do. Someone replied with this:

"that model of alarm that you're talking about, along with most of the other "concept" and "intelliguard" models, have a 2 point immobilizer built into the brain itself. if you were to look through the install manual of that alarm, you'll notice that it tells you to cut the ignition and starter wires.

as time has progressed, i've noticed on more than a couple of occassions the older clifford alarms and immobilizers have had issues in which the ignition immobilizer relay gets stuck in the "cut" position. the symptoms you've described are pretty consistent with this possibility. just go to any car audio shop or anyone familiar with vehicle wiring and get them to reconnect your ignition line, and you problem should be solved.

it was a good idea at the time, but i guess nothing lasts forever.....especially since the ignition relay will be activated for as long as you're driving. that's why you won't notice that problem typically with the starter kill relay....it's only active when ignition is on and starter is cranked."

sheekdude

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neof69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main Relay</TD></TR></TABLE>

x5

coolhandluke

iTrader: (2)

The main relay unit is fairly cheap. I understand that the unit can be fixed by resoldering. However, when my took a dump it would cost me more in time (billable hours) to fix than it would to purchase a new unit and make the install. Considering the car had 220,000 miles I'd say I got my money's worth anyhow.

cjames235

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running a stock ECU? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i was going to ask this as well......... if you are running a chipped obd1 ecu, unplug the evap purge valve that is on the firewall.... will do it everytime

free fix FTW

jdm_teg_gs

I'm running a stock ecu. I bought the relay for 60 bucks at the dealer and going to put it in today, I'll let you know how it goes.