PeterVSays

I am in a dilemma between purchasing a Fujitsubo RM-01a from ICB or a MFactory 4.9 final drive. They both cost the same. I know at some point I'll end up getting both of them, but I want to know where is the money better spent if I decided to not buy one or the other. Just a little side note, I'll be living back in California after I complete my service in a year and I plan to see Buttonwillow and Thunderhill as much as I can, as well as some local Autox. Thanks.

Xian

Depends... living with a 4.9 on the highway seems like it would suck pretty badly. It's not legal for the STX class in Autocross (ignore if this doesn't matter to you). Additionally,
I'd wager that it would actually hurt your autox performance since it would mean having to pick up 3rd on most courses vs. running the top end of 2nd.

On track, I'd expect the 4.9 to make a big difference unless it puts you having to shift in bad spots on track (middle of a turn).

The exhaust likely won't make a huge difference in performance... Less weight for sure and maybe a couple HP but not nearly as effective on track as the FD. If it was me, if put the $$ toward data acquisition, another test and tune, suspension development, etc..

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Gears are almost always the best bang for your buck.

coolhandluke

iTrader: (2)

A 4.9FD can be annoying. I had one in my 01' which I later removed due to the annoyance during daily driving. I have one in my 97' currently and its getting old, but I'm not tracking enough to justify it. 1st gear is semi-useless and highway RPM's are easily 4500-5000RPM.

Key factor when determining costs. Would you handle the final drive install yourself?

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

FD

Black R

4.9 hands down.

I've posted extensively on this subject.

I also autox a bunch on the 4.9 with a close ratio gearset.

kulo

I have jdm s80 4.4 lsd is good for dd/track

RagingAngel

Between the two choices the OP posted about, the 4.9 is going to make you a lot happier.

I would also consider changing out the flywheel for something nice and light.

HYREV2NR

I'm assuming you have the stock 3.23 first gear?

Ely2.45

iTrader: (-1)

4.9, you will definitely feel a difference,awesome throttle response.

Xian

And that's ^^^ the tough thing with a FD on a street car. For a race/track car, it's a ton easier... look at your local tracks, evaluate shift points/top speed, and pick the right FD. Constantly turning 5k on the highway though...

I can see a 4.9 working fine for autoX when paired with a shorter 2nd and 3rd. At that point, I'd imagine that second runs out a little higher than the stock FD/1st pairing and 3rd runs out a little higher than the stock FD/2nd pairing. If you've got a bunch of power and a bunch of grip to add to the equation, there's no reason it won't work. But if you're just tossing a 4.9 onto an STX type build then I'd fully expect that you'll be going slower than you did with the stock FD.

Black R

Idk, I've never been in STX.

Always SM.

Raise the rev limiter and it prevents having to upshift.


But now I run a jrsc with the 4.9 and can drive the whole course in 3rd.

Xian

LOL. Yeah, yeah, yeah... I know all the cool kids are in SMF and, FWIW, that's probably where I'll end up.

With the Comptech ECU & higher limit, my STX ITR would still tap the limiter every now and then (like 66mph IIRC). I absolutely agree that the "right" combination of FD, 3rd gear, power, and grip can work for autoX. I just don't think the OP is likely to have all the pieces those pieces...

PeterVSays

Well, I probably forgot to mention that I'm going to be buying another DD, looking at a 92-96 Prelude or a EF, since my hometown is the shittiest place in California... Stockton. So, I probably wont drive my ITR around much, thus I wouldnt be bothered with the noise levels or high RPM driving.

Xian, as far as money being put somewhere... I have a BNIB Koni/GC setup but the thing is I need to find a way to make them clear my Mugen tower struts, and i dont feel like ruining the integrity of my OEM tophats just to make them clear. I really want to put them on but I need more options on this, possibly some different aftermarket tophats to be more conducive?

Coolhandluke - I contacted a MFactory distributor/installer from San Dimas. He said that it'll run about $700-800 to install and ship (both ways?) which is around the same cost of a RM-01a from ICB.

If I do decide to go with the 4.9FD route, should I also get shorter gears as well?

Black R

Xian, you know I love you and your advice is always sound if not conservative.

OP, you could do a lot worse than to listen to Xian.
But look carefully at the ruleset first before modding.
If it's just a fun street car with a little bit of motorsport but nothing you're too worried about podium in a certain class, then 4.9 no question - after all, what's a bit of noise and rpm on a honda?


4.9 is usually in lieu of close gearset.
For most, it's an either / or as far as close gearing vs bigger fd.
FD is more affordable, and that's why it's so popular.
The close gearset is better, but more $$$

I have the ATS close ratio gearset AND the ATS 4.9 final drive AND the ATS LSD; all in the aforementioned b18c5'd jrsc'd autox car - but then again I'm crazy.

This is what it looks like when I'm driving on the hwy in 5th gear now:

Xian

True... give conservative advice and then I go full retard myself. Makes perfect sense.

And that's ^^^ the thing. If you can live with the high RPM's, don't care about classing, and are more focused on track than autoX... there's little reason not to go with a 4.9. I'd sit down with one of the online gear calc's and play with the #'s before you pull the trigger on anything though.

If the car isn't going to see street duty much more then maybe a FD is the right option. Depends on what you want and are willing to live with. Play with the previously mentioned gear ratio calculator and see what the FD and/or gear set will get you. I'd pay attention to what gear(s) you'll be in for autoX speeds (45-65mph) and highway cruising in particular.

What'cha mean on the shocks and ruining the integrity of the top hats? Is the top of the shock shaft competing for space with the strut bar?

PeterVSays

Well, my OEM top hats are 10mm whereas my Konis are 12mm rods. It doesnt comply. and using extended top hats that GC offers would not clear my Mugen tower struts. Just need to find some readily available to fit those dampers and comply with my struts.

Black R, hmm. well I could just opt out of the exhaust and get the transmission done. Not in a rush for things but i would like to have one or the other... **** the decisions. Btw I heard that with ATS FD, if you have the USDM J4H trans you'll have to change your first gear to a JDM type r first gear to be conducive with the ATS FD. True?

Black R

Nope not true.

You specify which tranny you have when ordering.

PeterVSays

if you dont mind me asking how much did you end up paying for everything ATS?

I read that with MFactory they use forged gears when you go close gears. Any comparison you have between the two companies?

Xian

Oh, that's easy peasy... the top hat bushings can be easily popped out with a screw driver. Get a drill and bore out the bushings so they fit the Koni hardware/shaft and then re-assemble. If you don't want to "mess up" the OE bushings, you can snag the softer ones off a Civic for cheap online or in a junkyard (or you can buy the ITR bushings through Acura).

PeterVSays

Cool, thanks! I wont have to spend more than i have to haha!

Black R

What you could do is get the Jdm final drive for $400 or less, then use the other $300 to get a custom mandrel bent exhaust + choose the muffler that you want (rm01a or whatever).

Also, if you're worried about hwy rpm then you can get an LS 5th gear - which is dumb IMO, but some people do this...

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/14...dm-vs-ats.html

Comparo graph ^.

Xian

To me, this ^^^ would be more appealing than the 4.9. Gets you some improved gearing for the track, a little HP along with good noises, and won't break the bank.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

i'd vote FD if it was NOT a dd car.

Black R

I got some deals here and there:

$600 for the 4.9
$820 for the 1/3/4/5 gearset
$600 for the LSD
$950 for all new oem bearings and seals
I already had the itr tranny

So I basically have an itr tranny case with itr second gear and everything else is ATS.
And blew a fuckton of $$$


I hear good things about mfactory, but have never tried them.

If my **** breaks, I'll be giving them a call.

Use that gearing calculator. It's a good way to compare different setups.

Or play gt5, you can customize tranny there also.