Tweakmeister

that almost sounds mechanical MiraiZ.

check all the hydrolic lines first though.

MiraiZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that almost sounds mechanical MiraiZ.

check all the hydrolic lines first though.</TD></TR></TABLE>good call you're right...I am needing to vent right now! My ACT clutch died....will be making a vent post in FI forum

92TypeR

Pop the rubber boot off of the slave cylinder area and see if there is movement. If there is movement from the slave cylinder your problem lies within the clutch sytem.

BudMan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kkim &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here's a third way that I used for the clutch.

gravity bleeding... connect hose to the nipple. open bleed screw and let the fluid flow into a container. no need to touch the clutch pedal at all. just be sure to refill the reservoir before it runs dry.

no matter which of the methods you select, be sure to get most off the fluid and junk out of the clutch fluid reservoir and refill with fresh fluid before you start the bleeding process.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gravity feed is the easiest if you're by yourself, because you can watch the level of the fluid in the resevoir...

ek9dc2

i use a long rubber hose that fits the slave and then put the other end into the clutch master in the fluid and have my friend pump the clutch pedal.all the air will bubble out and no air will go back into the system. Thats how i do it at the acura dealership.Also acuras use dot 3

92TypeR

Yes, DOT 3 I've heard is better for a clutch sytem compared to DOT 4.

Anyone have any thoughts on that as well?

This is coming from most of the SCCA boys I speak to.

daver

the first way. I tried the second way a bagillion times and it didn't do stink. Just tried the "first" way and

d

RaVAGE00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use a manual speed bleeder.

Takes about 4 minutes to completely flush your clutch system, and it is 1/10th the effort. </TD></TR></TABLE>

same here.... much faster to perform the bleed.

sinbadman

Hi guys , I'm not sure what is the bleed screw ?
I followed the small metal pipe from the reservoir to the front of the car right below the large Radiator Hose and see the nipple and next to it the line the comes from the container.
Is the bleed screw is the nipple itself I'm suppose to open or am I missing something?

it's an accord 2000 DX 5spd if it matters.

I'm working with the Haynes manual but im not sure about this one.
can someone explain me please?

bam bam

What can I do , my clutch sticks in first and rev. ..... I want to change the fluid in the trans but will this help ?

jdm_94

iTrader: (4)

It's the same thing just different ways to do it!!!!

sing

bringing this up again because i have one question and problem. if done the way #2 states, if the fluids are not being sucked in. would that be the slave or master?

racebum

i've done the pump and squirt method

gravity bleeding

and used a vacula

they all work

sing

ive dont the pump n release valve but nothing. gonna do gravity and if still nothing gonna replace slave. ive done this plenty of time too and really never thought this would be something holding me back.

sing

ok right now doing a gravity bleed im getting just a drip every few second. gonna go check on it n about 15 mins. what should i be expecting? consistent drips or a solid flow?

sing

update

after 15-20mins still only getting drips every other second and reservoir level havent moved well not notable

racebum

?

would be a first.

i've used both, no difference what so ever

on some cars that transfer a lot of heat to the clutch fluid you absolutely want dot 4

racebum

put your vacuum bleeder on it. will speed up the process. pump to 20", crack it, close it at 5", pump to 20, crack, repeat 3-4 times and you should be good

itr1244

i did it the first way. no problems so far ..

joelunchbox

Wow, just finished replacing Master/Slave cylinders on a 2001 Si. Here's what we learned. 1) Flush the system every 5 years and use DOT4+ fluid which is much less hygroscopic. You may as well flush the brake system as well and get the taste of brake fluid out of the way for another 5 years. Note: Synthetic brake fluid DOT5 is slightly compressible, do not use with ABS and I am sure it will not improve your clutch pedal feel either. 2) Pressure bleeder is the way to go if you have one. Otherwise, first gravity bleed, then bleed with speed bleeder (or very helpful helper). I suggest using your arm/hand to depress and return the pedal until it gets too stiff. Watch the resevoir! 3) We had to adjust the rod that goes into the master cylinder to finally get a decent pedal. The car's driving history is a mystery so don't know what shape the clutch assembly is in but it only has 70,000 miles on it. 4) Does anyone know how to drive their car without the clutch? Not recommended for everyday driving but it can save you a tow in a pinch. Rush hour traffic? wait a bit. Is your battery in good shape? good. Okay, do this at your own peril but I have driven from Wichita Falls, TX to Roswell NM in a Corvair minus clutch (clutch cable failed). Put car in 1st gear, start car. You will be moving so be ready!! Accelerate to a speed where you would normally shift at, ease of accelerator and pull out of gear (should do so rather easily), let revs fall as you put pressure on shifter for next gear, should slide in when rpms match. Do not be in a hurry, Do stay in slow lane, Do be aware of your surroundings. When it comes time to stop, ease off accelerator, pull shifter to neutral when it lets you. Coast to a stop, turn off car, repeat. If you are careful/lucky you can time lights so you never have to stop. You can downshift also doing this BUT it is more difficult to do than upshifting. Do this often and you WILL be replacing the syncros in the transmission. By the way, syncros are little clutches inside the trans and that is what let's you do this. Practice this a little with no traffic and you can save some money on a tow or aggravation from having to leave your car somewhere. Oh, if your car is out of tune, doesn't start well, battery on last leg don't even think about this.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

Here's a reverse method, which guarantees no air in the system.

After I installed the new slave and I opened its bleeder valve,
I removed the reservoir's lid,
I pumped brake fluid thru the slave's bleeder valve, up towards the reservoir.
I don't recall if the clutch pedal needed to be pressed or held up, to allow the brake fluid to flow backward thru into the system.

Buy a new oil can, with a handle/trigger style lever. I bought a 2 qt version. Open it and wipe it with a dry paper towel (no water/moisture) and pour in your big bottle of brake fluid. It's better to have too much left over in the oil can, than it is to have to interrupt the flow to refill that oil can.

I connected a clear hose (that would be a tight fit over the bleeder) to the oil can's spout. The hose was about 5 feet long, to allow the oil can to stay out from under the car.
I pumped brake fluid, until the hose was full. Then I snapped the hose over the opened bleeder valve. At this point there is nothing except air, in the system.

Again, I don't remember the position of the clutch pedal, but I pumped the brake fluid upward thru the system, pushing the air out of the top of the reservoir, until that reservoir was full of fluid. I tightened the bleeder, put the lid on the reservoir, and cleaned up.

Steve_86

I was trying to bleed my clutch and sucked a bunch of air into my line like an idiot..
Starting over with an empty reservoir and lots of air in the system. What's the best approach now:
1)The silicone hose + pump method mentioned above?
2)Pumping directly into the bleeder valve, reverse method like you suggested?

Knowing that this isn't just a small bubble or two, what would you recommend?
Thanks

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

I am not a pro and I have done exactly one of these slaves, to my daughter's ITR.

Knowing what I know about gravity and air bubbles, I recommend the reverse flow method. If you can not pump the fluid upward with someone pressing the clutch pedal towards the front have them hold the clutch pedal up and away from the front of the car.

I don't remember which way works, but there are only 2 choices.

My new dry pumpable oil can looks like the TinMan oil can (Wizard of Oz) was (from TCS = tractor supply company) about $15 and the clear hose was about $2. I could see that there were no bubbles as I watched the fluid travel thru the clear hose. My wife watched the reservoir level and my daughter worked the clutch pedal.
We nailed it the 1st time.

Steve_86

Beautiful, thanks very much. Your bleeder injection method sounds like the best way to ensure zero bubbles. I'm going to try it, and will let everyone know which position the clutch pedal needs to be in order to allow fluid to pass.
Cheers

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

Steve86, what's your zip code?