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I just installed a brand new Distributor King distributor to solve the issue of my motor cutting out while on the track (I guess when it got too hot it simply cut out).

My question is, can it be tested in any way?

The reason I ask is because as I was checking my timing, and the light was flashing, it was not very consistant. Sometimes it would flash several times in a row and sometimes there were brief pauses between flashes.
Is this normal?

I used the same gun on my buddies GSR to check his timing and it flashed nicely on his. He has magnacore wires and I thought that perhaps those sent a better signal, so I swapped them onto my car. It seemed to improve the timing light flash somewhat, but not completely. There were still pauses / breaks between flashes.

What could be causing this?
yes, the service connecter was jumped and the car was fully warmed up.
And no, there are not any engine codes. No sputtering or misfiring. There does however seem to be a little backfiring sound at idle.

mods that probably wont, but might possibly affect it:
JRSC
RC 440cc injectors
Walbro hi flow pump
Hondata S300 on a chipped P28

Haleiwa-Brando

There are several ways to check the distributor. You can check the voltage between several points on the main and secondary coils.

Also, check the resistance for each spark plug wire to see if they are within OEM specifications.

Check the resistance for each fuel injector to see if the are within manufactuer specifications. Don't forget to take a look at your spark plugs. If you know how to read them, see what the have to say and check the gap while your at it.

R you serious

brandon, i had a similar problem this weekend at the track
car kept cutting power on track for a couple secs..
tach needle goes nuts. im figuring its the dizzy.
going to change it out

Haleiwa-Brando

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brandon, i had a similar problem this weekend at the track
car kept cutting power on track for a couple secs..
tach needle goes nuts. im figuring its the dizzy.
going to change it out</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, the same problem I had, when I was down in the AZ visiting you. For me it ended up being my main coil. Though if you have high miles on that engine in the hatch, change the whole dizzy.

Hows the weather? Hows the JDM gf? Hows your crazy *** brother?

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brandon, i had a similar problem this weekend at the track
car kept cutting power on track for a couple secs..
tach needle goes nuts. im figuring its the dizzy.
going to change it out</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is what happened to me, except the needle was fine. I just lost complete power for a couple seconds, then I was back online once again.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are several ways to check the distributor. You can check the voltage between several points on the main and secondary coils.

Also, check the resistance for each spark plug wire to see if they are within OEM specifications.

Check the resistance for each fuel injector to see if the are within manufactuer specifications. Don't forget to take a look at your spark plugs. If you know how to read them, see what the have to say and check the gap while your at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The plugs are brand new, I checked the gap when installing them.
The wires are new as well, factory wires.
I will have to check into the other things you suggested.

Haleiwa-Brando

Also, make sure the fuel pressure is within specifications, make sure all the grounds in the engine bay are making good contact with the chasis.

R you serious

brandon, i didnt know you like jdm chics so much
wifey is well, has to find a job this year or else.. =/
brother is well. looking for a new job though. weather right now it perfect.
now if i could just fix my car.. motor is 99' i think its the dizzy. ima change the whole thing..
swap in the kine dizzy yO

how are things for you!

Haleiwa-Brando

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brandon, i didnt know you like jdm chics so much
wifey is well, has to find a job this year or else.. =/
brother is well. looking for a new job though. weather right now it perfect.
now if i could just fix my car.. motor is 99' i think its the dizzy. ima change the whole thing..
swap in the kine dizzy yO

how are things for you!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mmmmm...Japanese girls. Speaking of, one is visiting from Osaka and staying at my place for ten days. She just flew in yesterday.

Things with me are good. I've been surfing my *** off. Working a lot but not enough. Planning a trip to Japan, Taiwan and Bali this summer.

Back on topic, from my own experience, I think when it's time to replace the main coil, perhaps it is best to just replace the whole dizzy. This way you know everything is fresh. Distributor King prices are too good not too.

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The whole thing was just replaced! all brand new from Distributor King.

walker111

I would say to drive it for a bit, then check you plugs to make sure they arent damaged.

walker111

omg, 1 30100-P73-A02 DISTRIBUTOR ASSY. (TC-08A) (TEC) 1 2000 INTEGRA 584.93 467.94

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Yep,
that is why I went with the D K
$134.99 shipped. It was out of stock on the next business day (when it was supposed to be shipped) so I got upgraded to 2nd Day for free.

And the D K has a better construction that OEM. Lifetime warranty as well.

It drives fine on the street and idles nicely as well.