Prox_Denali199

I have a 2000 GSR with 98+Spec JDM 5 Lug that I recently installed. Car was sitting for 4 years prior to installing. Brakes did good for a while then began sticking up front (I've checked/greased guide pins and reset the pistons along with bleeding the brakes) which is telling me the caliper is bad? GSR brake lines looked okay and I am still utilizing the stock GSR brake booster and not an ITR booster which also leads me to believe why I'm experiencing the sticky brakes. Even before I did the conversion the brakes got sticky from time to time. Can anyone confirm this or has anyone experienced similar issues?

Nonetheless I need new rotors and pads (I have access to a pair of USDM ITR calipers and brackets that were boxed up a few years ago sitting in my garage from when my brother installed Spoon calipers on his EG) and am wondering whether or not the stock USDM 98+ Spec brackets will work with the JDM setup or whether or not they are even interchangeable - they should be.... right?

Finally, I've heard Prelude S rotors and Accord Pads will also work on 98+Spec JDM ITR's but have not confirmed this or the years. I am currently looking at purchasing rotors and pads from Advanced for a 98+Spec USDM ITR with hopes that they will work but the JDM's 36mm axle nut size makes me think otherwise. She is my DD, I love her and want what's best for her so any information regarding this would be greatly appreciated!

P.S. - I had to replace rear wheel bearings immediately after the conversion and I personally can 100% (not I think or I'm pretty sure) confirm that a 98+ Spec USDM ITR rear hub/wheel bearing will fit onto a 98+ Spec JDM ITR rear setup. It appears the rear pads and rotors will be the same (USDM vs. JDM) from what I've read on here and by physically looking at them but it is only the fronts that are giving me issues. Just for giggles and not that they need them at the moment but, does anyone know what front wheel bearings to go with in the case that if they were to fail, what fits/interchanges?

Cheers!

milano2kdc2

2000 GSR MC and brake booster are the same as ITR, no need to change. Make sure you bleed the brakes in the 98+ order, LF, RF, RR, LR - this is due to the ABS system.

USDM and JDM ITR Calipers brackets are interchangeable.

Get rotors for USDM ITR, they will fit JDM ITR 36mm.

Get 97-01 CRV front wheel bearings for replacement. They are 36mm with 5x114.3 bolt pattern.

Prox_Denali199

milano2kdc2

Prox, no problem. Most of the things I learned are from H-T, I am simply giving back to the community. Feel free to ask more questions!

dave7

Does that mean that the 2001 gs-r mc/brake booster is also the same as Usdm ITR?

milano2kdc2

Yes. All 98+ Integra, including LS, has 1" MC and brake booster

Prox_Denali199

I've picked up the pads/rotors/Russell brake lines and will be installing everything this weekend, I'll report back with an update to see if this cures my sticky brake situation.

Cheers everyone and Happy Halloween!

Prox_Denali199

Alright, so the brakes are good! Rotors/Pads/USDM Calipers worked! We bled the brakes 3 times @ 10-15 pumps per corner. They stop well and don't seem to be sticking so I guess we got that part figured out! However, I noticed a little bit of grease that was slung around the inside of my D.S Front wheel. At first I thought it might have been a tiny rip in the axle boot but appeared that there was some grease from the fresh outer tie rods and seemingly old/ blown out GSR lower ball joints (looks like I'll have to replace those soon as well) that may have dripped onto the axle then slung around while driving. I wiped it all clean and will check it again this weekend to see if it is indeed the axle or just excess grease. If I do end up having to replace the axle, I don't mind picking up another set of JDM axles from HMO, I'm just curious about what interchanges? I've seen a thread somewhere that a member tried a CRV/Prelude axle but they were too long iirc. I've also looked into the Insane Shafts axles, may be overkill for my little, stock DD but they are readily available and best of all - NEW. Any input from the community on any of these options?

Thanks for reading everyone!

milano2kdc2

I'll save you a headache here. For axles, use RSX Type-S axles as replacements for JDM ITR 36mm axles. Perfect fit.

feck

I'll second what Prox said earlier, you're giving out great advice and clearly knowledgable advice with it.

Prox_Denali199

Milano - man golly dang, you the real MVP! If I get a chance I'll go jack up the car tomorrow and report back. I'm almost positive it was grease from the axle but I don't want to capitalize on a hunch, this way I'll know for sure. The strange thing is it doesn't drive any differently or shake at any point in/out of gear while driving, nor does it make any noises out of the ordinary. I'm sure if it is the axle though it'll only get worse with time but I just don't want to clean up the remnants again! If it is, I'll give the RSX axle a try for sure. *Edit, I spoke too soon and did hear a pop upon reversing this morning from a dead-cold stop. Hmmmm....

Anyone know if US GSR side skirts fit to the JDM fenders? Lol ISO some side skirts, front grille clips, the bolts for the sides of the front bumper, and maybe some headlight seals/the cup that goes behind the headlight. I am trying to get my front bumper to fit more snug up against the bottom of the headlight as it appears to sag a tad bit on the D.S. I know there is probably more I'm missing but I'm glad that this thread is getting a little bit of traction and is being filled with so much knowledge!

Thanks for replying and my apologies to the moderators or anyone who may see this as clogging up the forum with topics that may have already been covered.

Cheers!

milano2kdc2

Yes, GSR side skirts are compatible with JDM front end.

For the bumper sagging, all you need to do is adjust the bumper support bar and your bumper position will follow.

Let me know if you can find the jdm head light seals? I need a pair and cannot find any.

Prox_Denali199

Niceee, I mean $80-$100 for a pair of JDM side skirts isn't that bad, just the shipping and then having to get them painted is another thing. I'd rather just find a pair of O.E US side skirts that are already painted to match closer to home (and probably much cheaper) so I'm very glad to hear that they will fit.

I'll try to get the bumper off this weekend and see if there is any more adjustment in it. I tried while I was installing a new turn signal bulb for the headlight (btw, if anyone is wondering, the bulb size is a 7507 and not an 1157 from what I've heard from other sources) and tried to readjust the bumper with it still on the car but didn't get very far. While I have it off, I may try to see if I can button up the bottom skid a little better and find some used fender liners ITR/GSR (whatever is cheaper) and pop them in. P.S is gone completely and D.S is hanging on by a thread. Turns out the car is definitely in need of an axle too. Walked up to the car and saw grease all along the inside of the wheel again. Haven't picked up an axle yet, I did however call my local Acura Dealership just to see for grins what an O.E axle cost, over $700 lol no thanks. I'll try the Carquest axle for a Type S from Advanced, (limited lifetime warranty and cheap) and see how it does. I may even see if the blown out axle is at all salvageable.

As far as the seals go, I for the life of me cannot find them. I found a hood seal on Ebay, but no headlight seals. I use Ebay pretty frequently so I'll be sure to keep you in the loop if I see them somewhere. I'm guessing it is something that could be picked up from from HMO or JDMland but isn't something that they list on their website but could also be one of those things that "you may as well buy the whole headlight" in order to get "newer" more refreshed seals though. The premium for a nice(r) pair of O.E headlights is insane! Saw a mint pair for almost $800..... and like $450-$500 (blk w/HID) in semi decent/okay condition and seals are in-tact (has the cups behind the headlights too.) Mine are in not-so-good of shape - very oxidized and has some scuffs/scrapes on the lenses but they function and still manage to stay in place despite having one or two broken mounting tabs and the rotting seals. I suppose I'd pay the $450-$500 if it were me just to get a headlight with more clarity, mounting tabs and has good seals while I keep the old ones as spares. Those O.E bulbs/ballasts aren't cheap either!!!!

dc2iggy

Unfortunately the headlight gasket is not sold separately. I use JP-Carparts to look up part numbers for items but have not been able to locate one for the gasket https://tinyurl.com/yddmq5ln

Prox_Denali199

milano2kdc2

Awesome, I'll dig around the jp-carparts site, I've never seen a site with jdm assembly drawings for parts, Thanks!

IIRC Prelude drivers side will work but passenger side is too long by a 1/4 inch. Keep that in mind when you need the other side. Like I said before, RSX-S is the easy way to go.

dc2iggy

Yup. Had to use that site a couple of times to bring in parts for my jdm 99 itr.

Prox_Denali199

dc2iggy - have you purchased from the site directly or do you use them as a reference and search elsewhere? If you have purchased from them directly, how is the shipping state-side? Pretty quick and reasonable? I know they have a long way to go (at least for me) but just curious. I think I may have stumbled upon the same/similar site on accident while surfing google images a while back for parts diagrams for the JDM front bumper, just never surfed the site! The numbers on the diagrams appear really pixelated on my computer making them hard to read, luckily I'm only in search of the front bumper hardware/grommets and grille clips so the pieces I need aren't so expensive. Glad to see a place where I can find at least a part number and potentially purchase from! Thanks again for posting it!

Here is another question for you guys, ISO an exhaust. Currently the car has no cat, the previous owner had it straight piped from the headers to a 10+ year old World Sport catback/muffler. It sounds surprisingly good and quiet at idle/below 2750-3k rpm but then begins to rattle and sound all raspy at 3k rpm (probably because it's straight piped and/or the baffles are worn out in the muffler.) Nonetheless it gives me a CEL for o2 sensors (iirc one upstream and one downstream code, I'll pull the codes again to see exactly what they were) which I've tried clearing but only come back so I think it's time to nip this one in the bud. I've thought to maybe get a O.E USDM/JDM ITR exhaust, another World Sport or to just weld in a cat and put in new o2 sensors to see how it sounds although I just don't think that would clear my CEL problem. It just sounds bad and I think it's leading me to another underlying issue -

Bogging and surging at slow speeds/cruising. It's only happened about three times since I've had the car back and would only last for about a minute or less. It occurred twice when I was pulling out of my driveway after a cold start in 1st/2nd and once while in 5th at about 45mph and warm, so this isn't while doing any digs or spinning through 4th gear lol just always very easy, light-on-the-throttle driving (honestly I try to keep it under 3k rpm so I don't have to hear my hideous exhaust.) I'm led to believe it's something to do with IACV or Evap, but I've also been told it could be distributor, injectors, fuel filter (which has just recently been changed and no I have not seen the issue since but I'm not holding my breath), plugs/wires, throttle body, intake manifold, valve clearance, timing belt, and yes o2 sensors, even seafoam. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has solved it? I thought I might have seen an old recall or TSB on this issue before somewhere? If I can get to my phone in time and if it happens again I will take a video of it.

That's all I've got for now, maybe if it will ever stop raining I'll take a pic of her too. Thanks everyone for all the replies and all the help!

dc2iggy

I have ordered directly through this site before for some replacement badges and decals. Can't speak for the states but it took 3 days for me to receive it in Canada.

You would get an O2 code for the secondary sensor without a cat unless you either use a simulator or a fouler. If you want to keep the straight pipe, have a bung welded into where the cat would be and get an 02 socket extender (fouler). I find the 90 degree ones work the best.

Prox_Denali199

dc2iggy,
Thanks for the response! Dang that is really quick! I may have to give them a try for the miscellaneous little parts I may need.

As far as the straight pipe goes, I would rather not keep it. I've thought about putting a resonator or something like that in it's place to see if it quiets the "raspy rattling" that I'm hearing at or above 3k rpm. My first judgement would be that it would be the right thing to do to get rid of that tone but I could be wrong. I do tend to think it is leaking quite possibly from the welds of the straight pipe as well but I can't say 100% without the car not being on a lift or dropping the exhaust as of right now. I do smell a pretty strong odor of exhaust fumes when I open the door which does give me a hint though so it definitely requires attention regardless of what I end up doing i.e keep it catless and leaving the straight pipe or replacing it all together. I haven't had much time to mess with it since I've done the axle. On a good note, she is driving good for the most part! I did have one more bog/surge moment in 3rd gear the other day, going slow. The car hardly had any gas in it but I do recall it happening after I filled up with fresh gas as well. It has a full tank of fresh gas now and so far, nothing out of the ordinary. I'll eventually post a picture!

Thank you again for your response and Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Prox_Denali199

Greetings everyone! I know it’s been a little while since the last post on this thread but figured I’d give a little update. The end of last week, the brakes locked up on the car while I was at a stop sign sitting on a hill. It seems as if not one but ALL calipers froze. Luckily I was able to limp it the few miles home at the expense of my rotors haha.

My question here is and although it could be a stroke of bad luck throwing on used and almost 20+ year old parts to get rolling but anyone think there is some other underlying issue here?

At this point I’m ready to do the Spoon calipers this go round, just don’t want to put them on the car only to have them freeze up on me because of like a proportioning valve or something. Any ideas or something I may be missing here?

Thanks for reading and hope everyone is doing well!

Regards

Prox_Denali199

Bump,
Just wanted to give another update on the car. It has been a while since I've messed with it, driven it (or even seen it for that matter.) I had a friend of mine pick up the car and trailer it to his shop due to the brakes being stuck. Long story short, the car slid off of the back of the trailer and damaged the driver side fender and door. Since then, I picked up a new set of JDM fenders and another door. The door is on and I am about to put the fender on. Nonetheless, the sticking brake issue and surging/bogging while driving are still problems I'd like to resolve with the car.

Since the last post, I have purchased a set of Spoon calipers for the front and would like to get around to installing them without the doubt of whether or not they will lock up. As for the rear, I may as well pick up some refurb's or something with hopes that they would hold up to the very mild, mannered, around-town driving that I do (forreal). I'd like to maybe look into the master cylinder and/or proportioning valve, even the ABS module if this is something that would cause this. No ABS light appeared upon the brakes locking up and I was able to test the ABS module via scanner so it leads me to believe the ABS module is not at fault but I could be wrong. Do note, the original, stock GSR master cylinder, proportioning valve, hard lines, and ABS module are still equipped on the car. Also note, the car has sat for an extended period before this so God only knows what that has done to the car in itself. The only difference now as it sits is the '98 spec JDM 5 lug and Russell brake lines.

Next thing on the list is the bogging/surging while driving. It seemed to happen more in 1st and 2nd gear at slow speeds and slow acceleration. Honestly it felt as if the motor was shaking so much it was about to launch itself out of the car or something was grabbing the throttle cable and pulling it really fast when it surged, and acted as if it was going to shut off when it bogged down. It did happen once or twice while driving in 5th gear while cruising at about 45mph as well. This would happen all within about a minute showing both symptoms. Not entirely sure where to begin with this one and I surely don't want to throw parts at it that it may not even need. Has anyone encountered this before?

I'd really like for this car to be drive-able and reliable so I can begin work on installing the cam, lifters, dod delete and long tubes on my Denali. I have actually purchased another little beater, an all stock, semi-reliable (has already left me stranded once) 1995 Ranger 2.3l 5 Speed. I did this since my car has been down for so long and didn't have to rely on my big truck for my every day activities (which, it too, is not very reliable at the moment lol).

Thanks in advance,
John

dc2iggy

I've had the front brakes on my old GSR lock up while driving before. The car sat for a while prior to this and my guess is that the cylinder rusted and fused. Replaced it with some reman calipers and it was good for another 50,000 kms before I sold it. You can try pulling the breaks apart and replacing the seals or just order new brakes. Buddy of mine picked up some Type R front brakes for his civic off Rock Auto for $120 canadian https://tinyurl.com/s8xfxbw. Try that if you don't want to spend $1100+ on spoon calipers.

Prox_Denali199

Thanks for responding dc2iggy,
Haha well I've already taken the dive for the spoons, they have been sitting brand new in box since last summer. I'd like to think it's just the calipers going bad. But for me to go through three sets makes me think the calipers aren't solely to blame. It does happen to make sense, all three sets sat for an extended period of time. I just don't see it being coincidental that all three sets locked up (both front and rear) simultaneously. My brother happens to think it could be related to ABS even though I had tested the module to make sure it did work. Either way, I'm not ruling any of them out at this point, I just don't want to keep throwing calipers on it with hopes that they would work. On another note, it sounds like you had a pretty good distance record with your remans, I may just go pick some up and throw them on the rear of the car. I'll probably hold onto the cores just so if I felt like I had time to rebuild them, I will.

dc2iggy

You might want to replace the soft lines while you're at it. If there is debris in the lines it could clogged the lines and stop the pistons from returning.