dc2newb12

Ok so the other day my car randomly would start up and it always starts right up.

I needed it right then n there so i just kicked under the dash where the relays are and played with the battery ground and also the engine harness. Then it started.

Next morning. started right away for work. at lunch started right away. leaving from my house to go back to work however. it wouldnt starts. just turns over.
Acts like it wants to start for a second sometimes

When i turn the key to II position yesterday you hear the main relay click for the injectors then the fuel pump on and off prime click. check engine light turns off. then cranks but no start.

I have cleaned the thermostat housing ground.went through all fuses/relays. checked fuel. yes. spark. yes. Its in time. has fuel pressure. just cranks. always just cranks.

so today i turn the key to the II position no clicks whatsoever, cant hear fuel pump and check engine light stays on. i did try to start another car that had been sitting 2 years with this battery. could it be the battery?

Things to be checked.

Coil
alternator
battery
ecu

im kinda stumped on this..

can anyone help me out please.

Also for reference. my bay is completely tucked, everythings painted. harness has unneccesary wire deleted. car has been running good for weeks since the last time i had the motor apart and this start randomly. also i roll with no hood right now so it gets rained on sometime.

heres a picture

wanabebuff

Sounds like the main relay. If that's the problem, it's a simple fix if you have basic soldering skills, hardest part is getting the main relay out.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...mainrelay.html

Could be wrong though, but sounds like it to me. I just did mine today coincidentally. When it has been running for a while, it heats up the solder joints on the relay which break the connection if you have cracks in the solder, which is why it won't start back up after you have been driving for a while and then shut it off. The cracks are hard to see if you don't know what you're looking for, but basically, if you see a ring around the joint/terminal, it is most likely a cracked solder joint.

Edit- that engine bay looks great, btw

racebum

check engine light being on is a hard failure. pull codes and see what you get. to check the pump you use a pressure gauge on the fuel filter. turn the key to on and see what pressure is at the filter. you may need to cycle the key twice.

checking spark is a really easy way to toast coils. you have to leave the plug hooked up for a spark test.

most common honda no starts are

1. bad coil
2. bad fuel pump

dc2newb12

So i just got the main relay to click fuel to prime check fuel pressure got all of that.

i was thinking coil.

I checked spark again and its still very weak. i had the car starting i could rev it up immediately and then it would shut off right away. i couldnt get it to stay on more than like 2 seconds.

also sometimes it would start and other times the main relay would just start clicking rapidly while it was turning over. thinking im gonna change the main n coil n see whats up.

dc2newb12

Also check engine light goes off after fuel pump primes now.

dc2newb12

haha, thanks man, ive been working hard on it. only problem is its an ls.lol gonna have to get my b16 head done pretty soon.

racebum

you need to check fuel pressure at the filter. if that's north of 40lbs the distributor.coil is the most likely cause

normally what you describe is fuel related. ideally a buddy will watch the gauge as you rev it up. if pressure drops there's the problem. all it takes is one bad tank of gas to plug a fuel filter

dc2newb12

i had used lucas fuel injector cleaner this tank. so i was thinking that maybe clogged the fuel filter but i have a blox fuel pressure guage on my fuel filter. it was reading just fine once i got the pump to start priming.

anyways my buddy whose a manager at autozone told me to just come get a main relay from him to see if it worked n i could buy it if that was it. and WHALA the car started and runs perfectly. which is weird because the relay was totally clicking and working and the ce light would go off after fuel pump prime but sometimes it wouldnt.

thank you guys for your input i really appriciate your time.

wanabebuff

It was the ignition circuit on the main relay, I think. How much did it cost you for the new one? Glad to hear you got it going!

el crapitan

probably bad contacts in the relay. it can still click, but not make contact, creating an open.

dc2newb12

yeah that was my conclusion and since i could get a new one to try from my buddy at autozone helped me rule that out but it happened to be it.

the autozone one cost me like $58. i'd rather have oem but since its lifetime warrenty if it goes out they just swap it out for me for free so i never have to pay for a new one again