PatrickGSR94

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No cruise control, huh? I use cruise all the time, even if the ABS light is on.

tony_2018

Yeah but just don't have the same thing happen to me, to you. Car died on the road.

PatrickGSR94

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That's exactly what happened when my original Honda OEM distributor went out. At least the replacement gave me some warning before it died completely.

tamboo

what i meant was cruise control can cause probs in wet/icy conditions.
i guess lack of abs could exacerbate if things get dicey under wrong conditions
but who knows. personally not impressed with abs/srs but feel free to prove me wrong.

Don?t Use Cruise Control In The Rain

PatrickGSR94

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sooo yeah, since I made this post quoted above almost a year ago, I ordered the timing belt parts back in July, but didn't want to mess with working on the car in summer. Now it's almost winter and I'm about ready to do the job lol. I've put less than 5,000 miles on the car since that post above. I also just ordered a new oil pan gasket and FINALLY ordered the PS pump rebuild parts. So I'm hoping to get to work on this stuff in the next few weeks, before it becomes freezing cold outside.

For the timing belt parts I went with a kit on Amazon for less than 100 bucks, which includes an OEM Mitsuboshi timing belt, so that's pretty cool I guess. Also came with ALL the top end gaskets plus the crankshaft oil seal. I also just got a nice seal driver kit so I don't have to fumble around with hammering on a big socket to drive seals into place.

ABS light, it's still on, all the time now. I removed the ABS fuses by the shock tower so that the pump won't try to run all the time, which makes the ABS light stay on all the time. Maybe one of these days I'll just suck it up and spend $100 to $150 for a used replacement ABS pump so that I'll have a functioning system again. If I ever get rid of the car, I don't want to be unloading it with a non-functioning ABS system.

So that's it for now. I've been all into the world of Obsessed Garage by Matt Moreman here these past few months, and gotten back into car detailing since my wife now has a car worth detailing (my Integra is not worth it lol). So I'm going to be putting the car up on ramps soon and trying to pressure wash all the old oil and gunk off the bottom of the engine and oil pan before I start this work. Maybe that way it won't be quite so nasty, and hopefully I'll be able to catch any new leaks relatively early.

PatrickGSR94

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And on a side note, all my Photobucket pics in this thread are working again!

PatrickGSR94

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Recently put new tires on my OEM wheels, which have been mostly sitting on the shelf these past 10 years with only sporadic use. The 195/55-15 Kumho rock-hard worn tires were over 14 years old!!! Before taking them to the tire shop I gave the barrels a good scrubbin' so they would have a fresh surface for the stick-on weights.



Only the 2nd time to wash the car in the past year haha. These wheels need new paint bad!

danteisme

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What did you use to get the barrels of the wheels so clean?

PatrickGSR94

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Just regular Meguiar's APC 4:1, and Tarminator for the tough road tar chunks, and a Brillo scrubber pad.

PatrickGSR94

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So over the Thanksgiving weekend I finally got my *** in gear and installed all my new parts to address various issues: timing belt and water pump replacement, oil pan gasket, power steering pump rebuild, all top end gaskets, front main crank seal, plus fresh engine oil and coolant.

Finally got the work bench area looking decent. Compare to the 2nd post in this thread.


Parts ready to go


Looks decent for 367K miles, after replacing the head gasket 5 years ago at 330K miles (wtf I can't believe it's been 5 years since I did that job!).


Oil pickup and ClutchMasters flywheel that haven't seen the light of day since 2008:


Spent an hour trying to remove the old oil pan gasket remnants. Major PITA


Nice and clean!



Power steering pump shaft and bearing. Felt a little loose but no weird noise after I put it back together.


This whole pump was black when I took it off from the leaking.


Finally got a Lisle spill-free funnel and was able to fill the coolant and purge out the air without spilling a single drop!

egsleepercivic

^wow that funnel looks awesome ! link ?

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

367k miles and still looks so clean! i need to invest in one of those funnels.

Prudz_lude

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Damn man, 587,000km!!! (converted for Canadians) That's wild!

PatrickGSR94

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danteisme

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Holy crap, $20? That would be stupid not to add to my garage

PatrickGSR94

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yep, I don't know why I've waited so long to get one. I saw Eric The Car Guy using one on a Honda years ago. Almost 18 years now of changing coolant in various cars and I've ALWAYS made a huge mess with it, until now. Even if you never use the other cap adapters and fittings that come with it, it's still worth it.

It also has a plunger so if you still have coolant in the funnel after the radiator fans come on, you can just stick the plunger down into the hot coolant (without touching it) to close off the bottom, take the funnel out and move it over to your overflow tank to let the coolant go in there. It's a brilliant design.

PatrickGSR94

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Finally ordered the parts to address my front sway bar bushing and end link situation, and also new front lower engine torque mounts to address a "clunk" sound that I'm hearing when opening or closing the throttle. I found the left torque mount torn when I was working on the timing belt a couple weeks ago.

zeroptzero

I get the same clunk noise on deceleration from a higher rpm as I left off the throttle and it engine brakes. I replaced the two front lower mounts , and the upper driver side main mount but the noise is still there. I have an upper tranny mount to do next but I think it is something else doing it.

egsleepercivic

the rear mount on mine was shot causing the clunk, I replaced them all though, but that was the only one that was completely broken

zeroptzero

ah, I was avoiding having to replace that one, it is going to be a real biatch to get that one swapped. I have a new one as I bought an entire kit , I was going to do four of them and hoping I got the issue resolved and hopefully not needing to touch the rear one. Sounds like I may need to do that one some day. Thanks for the reply.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Well I've replaced the rear mount before, and the driver side upper mount is still intact. Plus it didn't make any such clunking noises before I started this latest work, and the driver side lower torque mount is the only one I touched, and it's for sure broken. Also I jounced the suspension up and down, and no clunking noise. It only makes the noise when a torque load is applied or let off from the engine.

PatrickGSR94

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Changed out the front lower engine mounts and the busted-*** front sway bar end links over the weekend. Couldn't replace the sway bar bushings because they put the rear sway bar bushings in the box for the front ones But still the clunk remains which is weird. There was no clunk before I did all the timing belt and oil pan work.

Also I'm still seeing some leaking on the oil pan, possibly from somewhere inside the timing belt covers. I pray it's not the front main seal or oil pump that I JUST put new seals on. Maybe I didn't get the camshaft seals in there correctly or something.

PatrickGSR94

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So the clunk turned out to be the driver side main engine mount bolt, which I left basically hand tight after putting the car back together in November Torqued that to spec and the clunk sound is gone!

Also I finally bit the bullet Saturday and copped a replacement ABS pump unit to hopefully get the system working again so the annoying light on the dash will go away.

Still probably going to swap out the Moog sway bar end links with probably the AC Delco replacement end links, which looks like they might be easier to install properly. And when I do that I'll also swap out the sway bar chassis bushings which are sitting on the work bench.

MotorMouth93

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danteisme

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The MOOG sway bar end links were the biggest PITA to install on mine.