LIL DAn "lsv"

so my plan:
..... get this old 90 da9 integra ready for the swap.. so body work/ paint/ suspension/break work...put on a hold until parts are acquired..

in the mean time.. college classes, work, buy parts, party, repeat lol..

THE SWAP: b18b1 lsv-t build.

parts acquired: eagle h-beams, (traded blown b18a1 for these..)
underdirve pully
golden eagle block gurtle
arp mains/rod/head studs
fidenza flywheel (very light..bought off ht)
6 puck unsprung clutch (new off ht)
skunk2 pro series manifold
hytech tri-y replica ( being replaced for ramhorn mani and turbo)
68mm throttle body
blox drain pan plug (magnetic)
msd ignition ( full ignition not just cap!)
gsr water pump/timing belt (new)
00' gsr head:
*after further inspection of head: head contains dual valve springs on intake/exhaust side..seems to be modified with inward dished retainers?!
pics of that to come.. any info would be useful!

JUN cam gears
aem fuel rain (with -6an fitting)
golden eaglelsv kit and sandwhich plate.
p28 ecu

..needing a lot more parts here guys!! trying to make 400whp turbo'd lsv.

needed parts: oil pump/pickup. moroso oil pan/ head work: ie cams port work valves new seals.. pistons...MAYBE SLEEVE THE BLOCK?? hot tank to make everything pretty..

AND THE TURBO SET UP..SUGGESTIONS ON TURBO SIZE TO RUN..turbo in pic came off an 89 supra t4-vband ..king motorsports said its too big for my build (supposedly meant for 600hp engines) TRYING TO RUN 15PSI NO LESS.. would i be safe at 15psi with no block guard/sleeves?

thanks again ht..my experience here so far is the best..post count might not show it, but I do my research and own work..

current engine pic under my name..

Gsrsi

Nice u piece it together? Looks like a bit of money lol.

phaphon

imo
1 get rid of the flywheel
2 sleeves would be a nice piece of mind (reliability does not so much depend on psi but how much power your making
a cheaper alternative might be is to run e85 to reach your power goal on stock sleeves. you might also want a vitor x manifold its only 250 here on hondatech new.Also what injectors do you plan on using ?

DirtyDA9

If you care about your bottom end, get rid of the aftermarket crank pulley. Everything looks great though man. You got any progress pics of the engine coming together?

LIL DAn "lsv"

everythings been pieced together on a rather low budget under 1000$ for the car the engine all the mods listed and parts you see..honda tech my friend.." its a cheap mans dream" lol

LIL DAn "lsv"

no progress till summer for the engine.. college takes up my time..wire tucking over winter break though!

any advantages to the crank pully? disadvantages?.. id like to hear this..

LIL DAn "lsv"

1. I just decided to go for a turbo build officially.
2. what would the price comparison be ie: for sleeves vs an e85 tune at 15psi? could i tune 93 octane on hondata and be fine? ..king motorsports is who I plan to having my car tuned at.
3. why is the flywheel not a good idea? jw maybe because it revs to high and drops too fast in rpm? opinions i like...
4. how much of a difference is their in the victor x compared to a skunk2 pro series mani? ..i got the skunk2 for free with the half finished lsv tht i bought out of my buddies car..
5. not sure on what turbo size to even run..let alone injectors! any help would be nice i assume since theirs a resistor box in the harness it would be low impedence injectors that id need?? this is my first honda let alone first turbo kit im going to piece together so advice would be awesome

CleanLikeJdm

You don't need to sleeve for 400hp, but it won't hurt to do it either.
The flywheel is fine, I'm running a dd with 409hp and a 10lb flywheel with no ill effects.

I wouldn't bother changing the crank pulley, stock ones work fine.

If you already have the skunk2 manifold, it'll work good.
But if you plan on doing more than 400hp the victor X is a great manifold for boost/high hp.

Also if you're aiming for 400hp or less, get at least 800cc injectors.

LIL DAn "lsv"

^^ kk thank you. I'm literally recieving the aem fuel rail tommorow so Ill keep the fuel injectors in mind. Im glad to hear that flywheel will be ok. crank pully was cheap so if its gona kill my engine that **ck it!!

I bought a golden eagle block gurtle and I have all the arp studs:MAIN/HEAD/ROD/INTAKE MANI..
im just buying as i go knowing im building for boost.

whats the max psi a b18b1 block can handle until it cracks a sleeve? 400hp is my goal i feel that im heading that way..

CleanLikeJdm

Not sure about the girdle, but I would believe you'll need to run a deeper pan such as the gsr oilpan and pickup.
And the block will have to be line honed if you're using the girdle and different main studs.

Don't base your block safety on psi, figure out what software you're using to tune.
I have a hondata s300 and think its awesome, find a tuner that's comfortable with w/e you use.
Then figure out with him what your hp goals are, and what the turbo you use is capable of.

I don't think you mentioned anything about an adjustable fpr or dif fuel pump.
I would pick up a walboro 255hp pump, and get an aeromotive fuel pressure reg.
The cheap FPRs that you cut your stock one up are junk so don't bother.

LIL DAn "lsv"

^^ king motorsports is 5 minutes away so theyll be doing the tune. over christmas im buying hondata as my tuning source.. the turbo I have they said is capable of 600hp so its to big for what im trying to go for.

moroso oil pan with gsr oil pick-up, type r oil pump and a line hone will be done along with all other work at the machine shop before re-assembally..

ill never half *** an engine its just a waste of time otherwise!!

i want to build the head so valve springs retainers oversized valves some port work ( ill have king bench flow the head and do the works..)
im assuming for a 400hp goal stage 1 stage 2 cams would be a + for powerband?

lol so many questions on a tight $$budget..

so what your saying above is if someone really knew how to time this motor and it was built very "tight" it could achieve higher boost than the standard enthusiest could imagine?

..just seems to me that the ls block/gsr/type r b18 blocks have thin cylinder walls for high boost.. but i guess fuel trim cam timing and compression ratio pay a huge role on block strength?? ..I love learning!

DirtyDA9

Aftermarket crank pulleys throw the balance of the engine off and will eventually throw off the thrust and destroy bearings.

CleanLikeJdm

See if you can get boost by gear for 1st and 2nd, otherwise they won't be of much use.

For your power goals you could get away with better dual valvesprings and gsr/type-r cams easy.
And the forged piston/rod combo can be good enough to make that power.
Obviously having a sleeved block is extra reinsurance about it and good if you want to make more hp.

Just don't constantly abuse the motor, and keep in mind the extra maintenance needed for boost.

LIL DAn "lsv"

sounds pretty practical. I havent dove into the head that was swapped onto this lsv when I first purchased it. ( my buddy had the ls in his #matching 00) heads off a 00 gsr..bought off craigslist so I have to go through it.

looks to me that there are dual valve springs with "dished styled retainers on both intake and exaust side.. further update on that when head is torn down.

any suggestion on a brand name piston? Im assuming 9:1 compression pistons would be necessary, could I go lower like 8.5?

external catch can/venting the valve cover.

besides my standard oil change coolant flush spark plug checks water pump timing belt maintinence..what else is involved in maintaining a turbo honda? Im assuming constant oil checks..compression checks. when I get a tune and have a aem wideband besides oil pressure checking afr's being timed correctly what else is involved?

price range on sleeving the block? brand names/ shops to get it done at?
sorry for to many questions, but your info is very informative!

LIL DAn "lsv"

*PARTS UPDATE: aem fuel rail recieved in the mail today. looking at some skunk2 control arms for my da9 tommorow..

engine harness work coming up here over winter break from school
( tucking the sub harness)

from clip on the car took a hit, rails look good, radiator core support is trashed..when tore down ill update with pics..

may have to find a new shell if damage is too bad.
what do you guys think? heres some pics..

let me know what you think about the core support and if this da is going to be driveable or weather or not I shall get a new shell?

CleanLikeJdm

I'm running 9:1 cp pistons and they've been working good.
The higher the compression the better, just have to be sure about your tune.
Lower will be easier to work with but it'll take more to make power.

Maintenance wise it sounds like you have a pretty good idea on what needs done.
Just remember that your engine oil is going through that turbo and the heat breaks it down quicker.
And always keep in mind about shutting your car off if you were boosting before parking.

I've heard good things about GE sleeving. I'm sure they can match pistons to your bore when sleeving too.
I haven't done any yet, but I would expect to put 1-2k into the block if you do.

TinterJeff

how much would it cost to build a good reliable lsv setup?

LIL DAn "lsv"

Price range seems about correct for the sleeving. Yes this isnt my first build on a turbo car, I just haven't personally owned one since I never had the time or $ to go forth with the project.
Im assuming since the turbo is constantly heating up and cooling down that waiting for 2 minutes or getting a turbo timer is essential when cooling the turbo off..

Whats the break down comparison on oil in lets say this lsv turbo vs a standard lsv. Obviously im assuming the harder the turbo car is run the earlier you should change your oil. Obviously I can check the dipstick and see what my oil looks like, But whats the recommended milage before each change if the cars being daily driven and seeing track time?

LIL DAn "lsv"

depends on how you want to build the lsv. factory build, full build for n/a or turbo..

good parts to start off with// arp head studs arp rod studs golden eagle lsv kit, change out the ls oil pump for a gsr/type r pump..etc.

you can budget and spend low low amounts of money and put one together..or you can spend thousands of dollars building this fine engine..

phaphon

well from what i researched the heavier flywheels help your crank keep spinning. and they are better for boost. so you can also just sell those and use the money to go else where just my opinion and my sleeved block with balancing and pistons and rods cost me about 2300 i also had to pay a extra 100 since i cracked my sleeves. and with stock sleeves its like taking a chance on spending all that money and then boom goes your sleeves the sleeving alone from benson is about 1100 so thats not a bad price

94IntegraRS

Nice build bro,love the progress your making on your ride.

LIL DAn "lsv"

thanks! It's a definite work in progress between semesters and all..

one thing at a time. focusing most of my time lately on buying engine parts, then suspension..
in the mean time im looking for a front clip! the idiot before me smashed the right side fender into something and the result..a mangled mess of a front radiator core support!! some people..

power and handling is the main goal for my build. appearance who knows maybe when she makes the power and handles well Ill decide to repaint the car and do all the body work.. till then ill sit here with my and enjoy my night!

LIL DAn "lsv"

1100 dollars is do-able for the safety. on my budget so far I haven't even tapped in 200 bux towards my bottom end..rods I recieved on trade and the GE girtle I bought for 100.

any piston brand suggestions for 9:1 comp? looking for a set that won't break my bank, but will also perform up to standards..

phaphon

I went with cp but wise co I hear is pretty good I think some people are selling pistonss pretty cheap on Honda tech

kyden

i would ditch the underdrive pulley, it's an oil pump destroyer. i would also sell your msd setup, it's more trouble than its worth.

i honestly would have just done a stock motor with forged rods/pistons. 400whp is no problem on stock sleeves. save your money to buy a nice manifold instead of that ebay one you have.

i'm at 480whp, stock sleeves, no girdle, oem distributor. it's more about putting quality parts on than just throwing parts at it.