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So everyone in here believes this 64 year old man drives a DA with interest in a K-swap?
Why not? So far this is what I've done to this car. The only thing I didn't do by myself was the exhaust welding, and I pulled the knuckles off and took them to an authorized Acura shop to press in the ball joints and front wheel bearings. I don't have a press....and I didn't do the windshield.
In cronological order:
Windshield, wheels, tires.
Some initial electircal fixes (fans and AC).
Coil, igniter, wires....plugs, etc.....
Idler arm and pulley.
Master relay...400 miles from home.
Skunk2 Alpha rear LCAs with spherical bearing at the outside.
Hardrace trailing arm bushings.
OEM front LCA bushings.
OEM front A-arms.
AGX front-Osaka springs, Excel-G at rear.
New Calipers, rotors..brakes.
Oside high empedance, 4 hole injectors. Fan timer.
Magnaflow cat and muffler with resinator and 2" stainless exhaust.
Hood with latches.
Body work and paint. It was too cold, but I had no choice.
OEM water pump and gates blue timing belt.
OEM ball joints, Koyo front wheel bearings. Toyo rear hubs.
1994 Insane intermediat shaft and axles.
OEM (branded) radiator, DC Sports ceramic header, wrapped.
Denso AC compressor. Denso Alternator.
OEM Front engine torque mount.
Ground Control adjustable, 10" Eibach springs with (new) AGX front and Tokico rear.
I've probably forgotten a thing or two, and in the middle of some of this. I built my own house, by myself, with my own two hands. Even the foundation. Just had 5 guys to move the 170 ft. of cement hose around. Plus two garages and three outbuildings.
This car had 125 hail dents from two storms. When I painted, it was barely 50 degrees, but I was getting ready to move.
..and this old guy is getting 75mph around 30mph marked corners not pushing it...much.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 07-13-2019 at 05:48 AM.
Reason: added water pump
So everyone in here believes this 64 year old man drives a DA with interest in a K-swap?
Sounds questionable.. I'm 38 and I can barely get my self to change the oil on my Integra lol I have been going to local Honda shops to do my labor lately, with a full time job and living in a APPT where I cant work on cars I find it more reasonable to have a shop do simple jobs for me cause im being paid well now and I can afford it. I feel to old to be under the car wrenching don't get me wrong I still do lots of work on my kit car but the days of me swapping out motors and trans clutches are over. Only simple jobs even the recent Shift linkage swap I did was way way to much for me and reminded me not to do these types of jobs anymore cause # 1 I get scared even with jack stands crawling under the car # 2 I get a rush of blood to my bald *** head whenever I get under the car for too long so It doesn't feel good to me but this is just me. I'm semi retired lol
I come from two families that produce into their 80s.
This is what my dad built at 75. He was working on another at 88 when he died.
...and my uncle at 82 was developing an new engine for Lycoming.
I retired at 62 and built my house....off grid.
If I don't do stuff all the time....I'd go nuts.
This is last month just after installing the Ground Control....before adjusting them.
If you have such suspicions of buying a lightly used engine, then the other option is to rebuild yours. Luckily, the Honda community has a near infinite amount of resources and information that can be found online about the B-series engines. And we'd all love to read through your build thread here
I come from two families that produce into their 80s.
This is what my dad built at 75. He was working on another at 88 when he died.
...and my uncle at 82 was developing an new engine for Lycoming.
I retired at 62 and built my house....off grid.
If I don't do stuff all the time....I'd go nuts.
This is last month just after installing the Ground Control....before adjusting them.
I'll do this stuff till I'm dead. It's in my dna.
As head chairman of the Honda-tech elders delegation you are here by now known as a OG. Carry on with your bad self!
If you have such suspicions of buying a lightly used engine, then the other option is to rebuild yours. Luckily, the Honda....B-series engines. And we'd all love to read through your build thread here
Originally Posted by Caoboy
It sounds like you building an engine would be perfect.
My engine doesn't need rebuilding. It in great shape at 180k miles. I have concerns what E15 will do to it. Building a k2 would just take too much time...added to a swap. People here are convincing me that HMO is probably a good source. However, I am still considering a remanufactured k2 long-block, and remanufactured trans too. It means buying a lot of parts, but it would make it easier to get some extras I might like. Better intake system, clutch and other...etc. via freight shipping.
Driving 130 mile round trips for machine shop services here in my '97 Ranger is not something I want to do.
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Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 07-13-2019 at 05:55 AM.
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Here's the sticking point. Some of this is a guess on my part. I don't have all the definitive answers to this.
If I go to an obd-2 engine a lot of those systems are run thru the dashboard and probably some other places. My car does not have the wiring. No path between that programming in the ecu and the rest of the car. So in order to accomplish that, which would be an extreme amount of work, most people including the people that design the swap packages, recommend using Hondata/Kpro or other similar systems to make it work. ....and at the very least I'd have to replace my speedo cluster with a DC5 or ES gauge.
This is on the hondata website:
"Warning
Within USA this product is legal only for racing vehicles which may never be used upon a highway."
So what that means, if a vehicle inspector ever sees this, your car is NOT inspectable.
The only alternative would be to try and add all the wiring and systems that the hondata systems replace.
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dont you think you could've led with that in the 1st place. everything comes down to what your county inspects.
How would I know that? I just got to that info, and I had to practically pull teeth to get it. At least I took the time and effort to find out.
Besides some '60s and '70s motorcycles that I got rid of just 4 years ago, I drove and built air-cooled VWs until I was 45, a '97 Range since then, still have it....and this Integra for 6.5 years. I've rewired motorcycles and cars extensively (dated up to 1977)....none of which had much emissions.
This is why I am here asking questions. So really, how would I have known that?
It doesn't matter what the county inspects. It's illegal in 50 states. It's a question if I think I can get away with it....or I would have to figure out how to wire and install all the obd-2 systems from the ecu without the hondata or ktune, etc. That's very difficult if not nearly impossible.
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Here's the sticking point. Some of this is a guess on my part. I don't have all the definitive answers to this.
If I go to an obd-2 engine a lot of those systems are run thru the dashboard and probably some other places. My car does not have the wiring. No path between that programming in the ecu and the rest of the car. So in order to accomplish that, which would be an extreme amount of work, most people including the people that design the swap packages, recommend using Hondata/Kpro or other similar systems to make it work. ....and at the very least I'd have to replace my speedo cluster with a DC5 or ES gauge.
This is on the hondata website:
"Warning
Within USA this product is legal only for racing vehicles which may never be used upon a highway."
So what that means, if a vehicle inspector ever sees this, your car is NOT inspectable.
The only alternative would be to try and add all the wiring and systems that the hondata systems replace.
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When I did my JDM GSR motor swap into my DA, I put in everything 100% CA smog legal and used a stock USDM b18c1 ECU and passed the one-time referee inspection (supposedly notoriously difficult). After I got my BAR sticker, then I slightly modified the car and had it tuned on Hondata. Every 2 years when I had to get my smog inspection, I swapped in a stock USDM GSR ECU and easily passed.
For the first ~5-6 years I would swap out the JDM type-r header for a CA legal DC Header for inspection, towards the end I got tired of swapping the header and just left the DC header in, so the only thing I had to do to pass smog was the ECU swap.
Side note, the JDM type-r header made way more power than the DC header
Another side note, I'll be 47 next month. I just did transmission work on my GSR integra this weekend (had an Mfactory LSD installed). I took the opportunity to put a new flywheel/clutch in. I've been working on Hondas since the mid-90's, it definitely used to be a lot easier when I was younger, I'm a little sore, but its still a hobby, its still fun. The main reason I have the car is to scratch the itch that wants to wrench on stuff. I'm really glad to see older guys doing the same
You don't need to convert your car to obd2. Just make the engine obd1. Only a few things need to be changed on the engine itself and then just use an obd1 engine harness. Easy peazy. This is of course if you're using a b-series engine. Being that there were both obd1&2 versions of those makes it very easy to swap between on the engine side of things. Again, no need to redo your cars wiring to make the world's first obd2 DA Integra...
When I did my JDM GSR motor swap into my DA, I put in everything 100% CA smog legal and used a stock USDM b18c1 ECU and passed the one-time referee inspection (supposedly notoriously difficult). After I got my BAR sticker, then I slightly modified the car and had it tuned on Hondata. Every 2 years when I had to get my smog inspection, I swapped in a stock USDM GSR ECU and easily passed.
For the first ~5-6 years I would swap out the JDM type-r header for a CA legal DC Header for inspection, towards the end I got tired of swapping the header and just left the DC header in, so the only thing I had to do to pass smog was the ECU swap.
Side note, the JDM type-r header made way more power than the DC header
Another side note, I'll be 47 next month. I just did transmission work on my GSR integra this weekend (had an Mfactory LSD installed). I took the opportunity to put a new flywheel/clutch in. I've been working on Hondas since the mid-90's, it definitely used to be a lot easier when I was younger, I'm a little sore, but its still a hobby, its still fun. The main reason I have the car is to scratch the itch that wants to wrench on stuff. I'm really glad to see older guys doing the same
Yes, I can appreciate this, but what a pain in the ace!
Originally Posted by jdmark1
You don't need to convert your car to obd2. Just make the engine obd1. Only a few things need to be changed on the engine itself and then just use an obd1 engine harness. Easy peazy. This is of course if you're using a b-series engine. Being that there were both obd1&2 versions of those makes it very easy to swap between on the engine side of things. Again, no need to redo your cars wiring to make the world's first obd2 DA Integra...
Yeah, I really don't want to make the world's first obd2 DA.
The biggest reason I wanted the k20a2 was that much info states E15 and above should only be run in cars manufactured in or past 2001.
Though, all options are still on the table.....and even tho my b18a1 would last for a long time on E10, 200hp would be lovely.
It's also true that my county Comal, which is in the county just North San Antonio (Bexar), is not likely to have tailpipe inspection. The biggest city New Brunfels is pushing 100,000 in population. However, San Antonio nearly had to go to tailpipe inspections last year. They didn't because they convinced the EPA that most of their ozone is coming from extensive freeway construction that'll be over (?) in the next year or so. At the moment San Antonio is the fastest growing city in the US, and that will effect Comal County. My house is only about 60 miles North of downtown San Antonio.
So it is likely I'd get away with hondata or ktune, but for how long? Go thru all this work and in 4-5 years loose the "privilege" of driving this car.
I think looking more at obd-1 is quite viable, but what will E15 do to any B-Series engine?
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Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 07-14-2019 at 11:07 AM.
You're freaking out over e15 for no reason. At most, update your rubber fuel hoses and maybe your injectors. Take notes from what people are doing that are running e85! It's really not that big of a deal.
lastly, if you were to swap to a K swap, it is very possible to keep it 100% stock, you'd just have to do your due diligence and research. At that point it'd be better to have a parts car that you can take the entire drivetrain, fuel system, and emissions equipment out of and retrofit it into the DA.
obd-0. At least the '90 is. I can't speak to the other year models.
Swap in a b20 and it's literally just moving a couple of sensor plugs. Just swap over your intake manifold, exhaust manifold, crank pulley and alternator+brackets. Move the water temp sensor plug from the back of the hard water pipe to the thermostat housing.
You're freaking out over e15 for no reason. At most, update your rubber fuel hoses and maybe your injectors. Take notes from what people are doing that are running e85! It's really not that big of a deal.
I hope you're right, but all the reading I've done here....nobody is running E85 in an obd-0 car.....I have seen people here updating DAs to b18c1.
....and it is true that the epa and manufacturers recommend 2001 and later cars only, run on E15.
I would like very much to find people or persons running E15 in the b-series engines to know how that's working out.....after a few years of doing so.
If you find those people, I'd very much appreciate it.
From another post:
Originally Posted by JRCivic1
Unfortunately, "not really wanting Hondata" is irrelevant. You MUST have a tuning solution (Hondata, K-Tuner, AEM, Motech, etc.) to allow the engine to run properly and to avoid a ****-ton of work. A "K-Swap" in a 2nd generation Integra will require a primary and secondary O2 sensor, a cat-converter, a return-less fuel system including the emissions related sensors and charcoal cannister, a DC5 or ES gauge cluster and the multi-plexer to control it... shall I go on ???
OP, do yourself a favor and buy Hondata... it will make your life easier and your engine will work properly.
There is no electrical path from a newer ecu, thru my dashboard to the newer systems needed for the k20s2.
.The B18c1 is worth a look.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 07-14-2019 at 01:01 PM.
One thing I forgot to mention, I had the internals of the stock GSR transmission swapped into my DA transmission case. This maintained the cable clutch + GSR gearing + kept the swap looking OEM.
What makes you think that it's going to run better on e15? Where are you finding an advantage?
The vtec is a more efficient engine overall, but if it's only got 40k miles on it, the cylinder walls, rings and valves, etc. should be in much better condition. My a1, at 180k miles has got some years left in it as far as I can tell. It seems pretty strong, but I know that the tolerances are well worn. I'm easier on it than when I got it a 145k, and I have noticed small changes in time I've had it. I crank it up to 6200rpm at 4/5s throttle rarely now.
...and the compression is 10.5 to one instead of 9.5 to 1.
Pure alcohol requires 12:1 compression. The moonshiners of the 20s and 30s used roots type blowers to get high compression. They were readily available at the time. My dad's 1914 Bentley boat-tail roadster came with dual overhead cams and Bentley's version of the roots blower.
The moonshiners didn't have a problem getting blowers.
The 10.5:1 compression will help.
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07-12-2019, 11:55 AM
Re: JDM experiences?
