AzzKrackBandit

I'm at a loss guys, I go through ball joints on either side quite often... Like every 6 months or so I'll pop one side, then a month or so afterwards the other will go too. I had master pro, upgraded to precision.... I don't think the ball joint itself is supposed to be extremely load bearing, but any advise on exactly Why this keeps happening? Brand new upper and lower control arms, uppers are new too, and give me no problems. The lowers keep breaking Carter pins, and stripping the nut out, thus dropping the lower control arm down in the inside of my rim, and ******* me royally.
1996 acura integra rs, b18b1 swapped from auto to an ls 5.

Caoboy

What are you torquing the castle nut to?

AzzKrackBandit

I'm not, I get her snug snug, and I Carter pin it. But tbh with you, ive been using a nail as a Carter pin, because it keeps snapping Carter pins. When I tried to torque to spec via Hanes and Chilton book spec, I stripped threads. So I've just been playing it by feel. Keep in mind, im broke, and this is my daily so I do whatever I have to do.

Caoboy

What spec is in the Haynes/chilton?

It should be 36-43ftlb. Tighten to 36ftlb, then go to 43 on the torque wrench but only tighten it enough to slip the cotter pin through the hole. the cotter pin is just there to prevent the nut from falling off if it loosens.

You shouldn’t be stripping out the threads with that torque spec.

Make sure to use the castle nut that comes with the ball joint.

New cotter pin, always.

Here is a quick guide for knuckle assembly.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/acura-integra-1994-2001-dc2-hub-knuckle-assembly-2594674/