Truecure

I was replacing the cam seal on my teg that went fine. Then I put the valve cover back in place with a brand new gasket kit I just purchased. I pull out my brand new torque wrench set it at 7.2ftlb. The first 2 bolt went fine. Then the torque wouldn't click I went a extra 1/4 turn snap. Broke 2 valve cover studs

I know I'm going to probably have to take the valve cover back a loose again. But how hard is it to get those studs loose and what do I need. They broke right at the bolting surface so I still have some of the stud below the valve cover.


What do I need to take these studs out and replace them?????


Please Help??????

Racermech

Cant help you on removing the studs, but i can give you some advice on using a TQ wrench.

First off you should hand tighten the bolts, not tight, but snug, then set the TQ wrench for 1/2 of the final TQ (in this case about 3.6) then go around and tighten the bolt to that TQ then move up to the final TQ. Alos you will want to do a criss corss pattern. Meaning do lower left, upper right, upper left, lower right.....etc This will help bring down the VC in an even patter, and it puts lesst stress on the bolts as you tighten them down. All of this becomes VERY important when doing something like a header, oil pan...etc.

Dont worry someone will reply about the broken bolt. Another word of advice, when you do get the bolt out look into getting ARP bolts, they are not cheap, but they are well worth the extra $$'s

mr.beeks

I never used a torque wrench on my valve cover
cause I know those bolts are fragil as hell
another tip using the torque wrench set the torque half way
start from the inside out criss cross patterns.
as for the bolts that are broken that hold the valve cover
im pretty sure that if you take the valve cover off you
will still have half of the bolt in there with the bolt pattern that will
allow you to use a wrench.....

R.S.

yea take the valve cover off and unbolt the broken stud from the head and get a new 1 from honda/acura.

SargentNg

Also...torque wrenches are designed to only be accurate between like 20-80% of their rating. I myself have a big torque wrench and a little one. Good luck.

Truecure

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cant help you on removing the studs, but i can give you some advice on using a TQ wrench.

First off you should hand tighten the bolts, not tight, but snug, then set the TQ wrench for 1/2 of the final TQ (in this case about 3.6) then go around and tighten the bolt to that TQ then move up to the final TQ. Alos you will want to do a criss corss pattern. Meaning do lower left, upper right, upper left, lower right.....etc This will help bring down the VC in an even patter, and it puts lesst stress on the bolts as you tighten them down. All of this becomes VERY important when doing something like a header, oil pan...etc.

Dont worry someone will reply about the broken bolt. Another word of advice, when you do get the bolt out look into getting ARP bolts, they are not cheap, but they are well worth the extra $$'s</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks RacerMech

Truecure

Thanks mr. beeks

Truecure

Thanks R.S.

Truecure

All you guys gave me good information I really appreciated!!!!

thanks SargentNg and to you all!!!

InteGsRed

ive snapped like 3 of them over a years period. dealer can set u up with them. they are easy to remove from the heade, just unscrew.