NemesisCBR

Going to say thanks for the write up since i used it to install my 24mm asr bar and brace. I went with asr's recommendation drilling out both holes instead. I was missing my 3/8" bit and had one a size or two smaller and it was sufficient to drill out the threads for the bolts i had. I also had to recheck/tighten the allen bolts that hold the brace to the bracket when i tightened the other bolts. My final install result was a vertical endlink on the pass side, mostly vertical endlink on driver and the bar itself was mostly horizontal. With the bar arm curvature im not sure whats perfectly horizontal anyway but the endlinks are just about all the way shortened already.

Regarding the endlinks, i emailed asr about using the stock endlinks over the adjustable ones because of the people complaining about eventual squeak/noise and Charleston assured me they dont squeak (3 years on his dd) and that the oem endlink cannot be used. He said rsx type s endlinks can be used instead which look similar to that SI endlink but probably has proper length. So far no squeaks on the asr spherical endlinks but i do get the occassional clank however im not sure if thats the rta with the worn bushing more notably heard with the extra stiffening or the movement of the spherical endlink as the bar twists. At this point its an acceptable amount but i will opt for another option if it gets annoying.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Good info, and nice looking setup

PURPLERANGER

Im on my final leg of this project and Im wondering, do I need to replace the inner LCA bushings when I remove the LCA bolt?? I would rather not have to pay extra if its not needed, but if I do, I might just buy new LCAs.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

Only if you wind up cutting out the bolt (because it's bonded to the bushing and won't unscrew). If you can get the bolt out fine you can reuse the bushing, unless of course it's totally shot.

hnjbjp5

Good stuff.. Thanks

DC4PB

B_Swapped93

Glad this write up was here ! I'd like to ad a little bit of a suggestion, while this was an issue with aftermarket LCA's(I'm using F7's) it may not be for everyone I could barley get my hands/wrench around the lower nut that secures the backing plate. I have small hands too so I undid the lca to strut and bent it down made things a lot easier. On the driver's side my integra has a plastic guard that goes around the tube from the gas fill neck to the tank I had to remove it again to get a wrench in easier will be using the ASR 32mm hollow bar on the car now .

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

As noted in the "ASR Instruction Integra" guide, on page 3.
I had to go there to figure out what you did, about the LCA removal, to get my wrench into that small opening.

http://www.passwordjdm.com/Install_N...race_DC_EG.pdf

dave7

Thank you to the OP for posting this guide!! It was by far the best guide that I found searching online. I was able to successfully install the asr frame brace and jdm itr bar on my gsr today. Guides like this help me to learn valuable mechanic skills haha.

wunfstgsr

Is a alignment needed after this install?

361 accord

I was just checking this out last night because I was wondering how to re-route the ABS wire.

ASR now has V1.5 LCAs (the triangular holes go all the way through) but the end link holes are in the middle like most others.
I haven't received them yet, but, wouldn't it be an equal sin to lower the car 2-3" from stock on stock control arms and end links? the bar would be unnaturally angled up. so if you had a lowered ride height and ASR/blox, LCAS it would rotate the sway bar back down to horizontal as it should be, right?

just thinking, adjustable end links would solve any problems that came up, just sucks its another $100 for the metal sway bar collars and decent end links.

dave7

^My gsr has 5 lug from ctr and abs. So the abs lines wouldn't fit under the asr brace like they should. So I just zip tied them on the front side of the subframe and it seems fine.

dave7

I also used a size smaller, 5/16" and it worked just fine. That 3/8" must be a typo in the OP because it would be completely unnecessary and way too big. I only drilled the top hole out and it was just fine.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I use Function7 LCA's with correct sway bar end link placement, no issues after 10+ years with them, and 15+ years with an ITR rear sway bar. I routed my ABS lines in between the shock fork and the LCA and zip tied them to the LCA.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

No, suspension geometry is not affected when installing a subframe brace or sway bar.

aw614

The only thing I can see possibly losing alignment is when you have to pull the rear control arms off and then reinstall it. It feels like my alignment changed very slightly when had to reinstall the control arms. And yes I did tighten at ride height

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Unless there's a ton of play in the bushings or enlarged holes or something, alignment shouldn't change any appreciable amount. But it's never a bad thing to get it checked and adjusted anyway.