When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks for the input! Ive never heard anything bad about ferrera. What about camshafts? Stay stock vs getting like skunk2 turbo cams? Or other recommendations?
First thing, there's no such thing as a "Turbo Camshaft" from Skunk2. There are camshafts that just happen to work with smaller turbochargers (Tuner 1) and larger 61lbs/min turbos (Pro1) that are made from Skunk2, but there are much better choices out there for these power levels. 500whp, you can keep stock VTEC GS-R Camshafts if you'd like, but camshafts made for specifically for turbocharged applications change the behaviour of the engine in specific ways outside of just using a higher lift camshaft lobe.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
another thing im a little confused about the fuel system. Mines a returnless system so id like to keep it that way for ease and clean look. And my goal is 500hp, heard people say the stock fuel lines can make up to 5-600 other people say not. And also as far as fuel pressure regulators go will the "stock style" ontop of the fuel rail be fine as opposed to "stand alone" adjustable like mounted to the firewall i guess like aem's adjustable fpr? Any input and pics qould be helpful! Thanks.
You're using a B-series engine, you have a standard return-fuel system, unless you made a specific conversion to a returnless system. 500whp-600whp can be done with the stock fuel lines, but only if using C16 or meth-water in conjunction with you 93 octane. If you're using E85 as you knock-resistant fuel, then no, the stock fuel lines will not work, even with upgraded injectors and fuel pump.
You want an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on an upgraded fuel rail with your upgraded injectors. whether or not it's on the fuel rail itself or the firewall, is up to you.
Ya i got it theres no such thing as turbo cams. What i meant was camshafts that are designed for a turbocharged engine that will work better than my stock gsr cams or if those are good. I guess instead of a condescending answer of skunk 2 are **** i was more looking for, skunk2 are not good and i would reccomend x brand or x camshaft. Would perfer this stay as positive and good learning experience as possible, if i knew everything i was doing i wouldnt be on here asking questions.
But ya lol i realise it is a return system, i do work on cars for a living so guess i just got confused for a min of all the brands lol. But ya im trying to run 93 as its the least expensive and easiest/ cheapest option. Even before hp my goal is to make this car as "easy" to drive and streetable as possible or else itll just be a pain in the *** to drive and i wont drive it. Seen too many people build insane cars that are too hard to expensive to drive so they just sit. that being said ill need bigger fuel line from tank to lines and back? Recommendation on fuel line and or thickness ill need? I like the look of the an lines and the in line fuel filter look clean. And so like the aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a good route?
Ya i got it theres no such thing as turbo cams. What i meant was camshafts that are designed for a turbocharged engine that will work better than my stock gsr cams or if those are good.
Yes, there are some fantastic camshafts available for turbocharged Honda B-series. The two that are worth mentioning are GSC T1 camshafts and Kelford 176-T camshafts. The Kelfords are mainly for those running larger turbos of 61lbs/min or more (GT35R-sized). The GSC T1s are made for smaller turbos than that size, as well as the large ones, but don't expect them to sound or behave like a stock camshaft, and will require a bit of tweaking before dyno time.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
I guess instead of a condescending answer of skunk 2 are **** i was more looking for, skunk2 are not good and i would reccomend x brand or x camshaft.
You won't find that here, really. The only "****" camshaftsare Blox, BrianCrower. The rest are either great or a toss-up.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
Would perfer this stay as positive and good learning experience as possible, if i knew everything i was doing i wouldnt be on here asking questions.
But ya lol i realise it is a return system, i do work on cars for a living so guess i just got confused for a min of all the brands lol. But ya im trying to run 93 as its the least expensive and easiest/ cheapest option.
Sure. But we tend to be brutally honest, so hopefully you won't take any critique as a type of insult. But the experience is going to be based upon your input to this thread. In the end, it's your car. We have no "skin-in-the-game" for this, only to truly help.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
But ya lol i realise it is a return system, i do work on cars for a living so guess i just got confused for a min of all the brands lol.
Yeah.... ok.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
But ya im trying to run 93 as its the least expensive and easiest/ cheapest option. Even before hp my goal is to make this car as "easy" to drive and streetable as possible or else itll just be a pain in the *** to drive and i wont drive it. Seen too many people build insane cars that are too hard to expensive to drive so they just sit.
Well, see, the thing is, the simpler "drivable and streetable" options are the ones that cost more than the race versions. If anything, they aren't the cheapest option. If that's what you're looking for, simply grab the nearest CX Racing or eBay kit, and start going... No need for us to witness that adventure.
But I get you're saying that you're looking at about 350whp or less. That's the most you're going to get from 93 octane and still get the attributes you're looking for.
Originally Posted by boostedjd
that being said ill need bigger fuel line from tank to lines and back? Recommendation on fuel line and or thickness ill need? I like the look of the an lines and the in line fuel filter look clean. And so like the aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a good route?
I'll just sum up.. No need for larger lines for 93 octane, but never a bad idea to change because the original lines are old. AEM or AEROMOTIVE are the better options for FPR. How you place it in the car is ultimately your decision.
Ya i think im just gonna keep my stock gsr cams for now for drivability and can always change it up later if i dont like it. Just dont want it to idle like **** i guess. And ya after searching for hours i found a couple people with 500+ hp cars running stock lines. Think on teamintegra.net there was a dude at 585hp with stock lines.
Talked w dan benson for a few and he said stock crank pulleys are good up to 6-700 hp as long as theyre in really good condition. Engine build time is apparently around a month. Went with stock bore and 9:1 compression per his recommendation for my goals. So gonna be a while before i see that. Also ordered the go-autoworks kit, went w ramhorn mani for now, tial everything, and had it all powder coated black cuz im not a fan of chrome. Syas 4-8 weeks for delivery on that. Prob not much parts gonna be ordered till tax refund lol.
But ya its dumb, look on any build or thread and all it is is everyone calling everyone else retarded and ignorant. Idk about anyone else but I don't build race cars for a living so im herr to learn and post a fun build. No wonder nobody posts much if all its gonna be is hate.
And ya i realize no heavily modified car is gonna be easy to drive by any means, but any way i can make it closer to "stock driveability " or just easier to drive in general the better. Just dont wanna put a ton of time and money into something to never use it.
And ya I realize no heavily modified car is gonna be easy to drive by any means, but any way i can make it closer to "stock driveability " or just easier to drive in general the better. Just don't wanna put a ton of time and money into something to never use it.
I got ya that's the issue. I suppose you could go with something like the Skunk2 tuner cams they retain the factory idle and low-speed but are still an upgrade over stock, I know a few people that have them on NA builds, I had the tuner 1s on my old b16 before I upgraded to GSCs'. But the issue is for me anyways is the price. For $500+ brand new, I can get a lot more performance with just $100-200 more and something designed for a turbo. But it's up to you and your goals. I will say with the amount of work you are doing I wouldn't go cheap on any part if you don't have too. You don't have to kill your bank account but just get the best you can afford and what meets your goals and take your time if you can. I like what you have done so far. keep up the great work.
Ya luckily my buddy does powder coating and was doing some black so figured why not while its apart. Probly gonna have him do my valve cover too in wrinkle red if you can powder coat that wrinkle finish.
Thanks man! Trying to do it as nice and "the right way " as possible. Ya ive heard good things about those tuner cams, people getting like 40ish hp on boost just from adding cams so if i do run cams I'm pretty sure those tuner cams is what I'm gonna go with, guess it just depends on how much money i have left and am willing to spend lol. Tax refund think im gonna get valves, springs, retainers, and the head work done. Still gotta figure out what ra i need it finished to for boost and then the head gasket.
Problem i keep running into is every time i do research i see of something else cool i wanna do, like i just saw the chase bays abs delete kit. That way i can get rid of all the extra lines and unit and then tuck my headlight harnesses in my fender well ans clean it up a bit.
Recommendation on headgasket? Dad benson said id be fine running an oem handbasket but idk seems a little odd on high hp and boost, although id assume he knows what hes talking about, im torn lol.
Recommendation on headgasket? Dad benson said id be fine running an oem handbasket but idk seems a little odd on high hp and boost, although id assume he knows what hes talking about, im torn lol.
run stock head gasket. despite your concerns, in this case OEM IS TRULY BEST...
Ya makes sense ill get an oe headgasket. Also just took my valves out of my head and found this just hanging out inside it, anyone have ideas what it could be? 5.5 mm or whatever the standard equivalent is, philips on top also. Found it on exhaust #4 , but moved the head around a bunch so idk if that means anything.
Nothing in the engine uses a bolt like that to my knowledge, the bolt on the clamp for the oem intake hose uses the same shape and size as that, the one that clamps to the throttle body. No idea how it would end up in the head if that is it.
Ya i agree good thing i tore this whole thing down. I've never seen anything like it either but ya i can't imagine its anything from inside the engine. Gonna measure and order the valves and springs. And then gotta find a good machine shop to send it off to and make sure valve seats are good and ive heard its gotta be 50 ra or finer on the head surface finish. Buddys got a turbo k20 and he said thats what he did unless anyones got diff info?
Starting to look like an engine. Got skunk2 tumer stage 1 cams, alpha springs, ferrea 6000 valves, and ferrea valve lock kit. Waiting for the springs to come in and ship the head out to get resurfaced.
01-10-2019, 05:16 PM
re: Boostedjd's Prospective GS-R turbocharger build thread
