PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
07-03-2013, 12:28 PM
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PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Well the time has come folks. One of H-T's highest-mileage original stock B18C1's will have to get torn apart. After 329,000 miles of mostly trouble-free miles on the original engine and gearbox, both of which have never been opened up, my B18C1 head gasket has gone and sprung a leak. Car loses like a quart of coolant per week, belches out white smoke when cold, and is usually hard to get it started when cold.
So besides the head gasket issue, there are a few other lingering issues that have either been present for years, or are just annoying, or both. I'm going to try to document the repair process in this thread. Some things I may just never get around to, but at least I can use this as sort of a "log" of what needs to be done and what's been completed.
I've never been that great at taking photos of projects or work I'm doing on the car, but maybe I can make myself do it this weekend.
So here in no particular order are issues I'm having on the car, status, and what my plans are to deal with the issue:
Blown head gasket: *Status - COMPLETE! Engine running smoothly*
I have ordered a new OEM head gasket, intake manifold gasket, I have an OEM exhaust manifold gasket sitting in the tool box that I ordered probably 6 years ago lol... also ordered 16 valve seals (they sent me 2 bags of 10 haha), and new camshaft seals. No I'm not doing the timing belt or water pump or any of that other stuff because those things have less than 60K on them at the moment. The plan is to start taking the car apart tomorrow, 4 July. Unfortunately the machine shop won't be open Friday so I'll have to wait until Monday to take it up there to get it checked for flatness, and also possibly have it cleaned. Then put it back together during the evenings next week.
The parts I listed are the only parts I'm replacing, hopefully, unless I find some other issue. I'm not doing any kind of engine overhaul or rebuild. I don't have the time or money for that. I've been bike commuting a couple times a week which has been awesome (went 3 weeks on 1 tank of gas as of last Friday) but I still need my car sometimes.
Engine rattling noise at certain RPM, most audible when shifting: *Status - COMPLETED during cylinder head reassembly*
This has been an annoyance for several years now. I'm almost certain it's the LMA's that need replacing as they're the old-style oil-filled cylinders. Along with the OEM parts above I also ordered a set of the revised spring-type LMA's from Science of Speed, and will be replacing those along with the head gasket while the head is off the car and camshafts are out.
Weird shifter creaking noise *Status - COMPLETE!*
My shifter (AutoZone short shifter installed 12 years ago) has been making this weird creaking noise when moving it from left to right in the middle of the H pattern. I noticed awhile back while under the car that the rubber seal under there is all dry rotted, so I'm sure the pivot is all full of junk. I have new rubber seals to fix that up, hopefully while the car is jacked up this weekend while the engine head is off.
Weak, flickering Brake indicator light *Status - went away by itself apparently*
This started happening sometime last year. I made a thread on it somewhere. It actually stopped doing it for several months, but recently started doing it again. It may be an issue with the Integrated Control Unit based on PM's from another member, so I'll probably try to open that up and check it out, or possibly get a refurbished unit of eBay or something. I've checked all the usual suspects related to the Brake indicator light, and it's none of those.
19 August 2016 Update: the brake light hasn't flickered for a LONG time now, almost seems like it just went away. I swapped the ICU a couple weeks ago, but since it had already stopped doing the flickering, I have no idea if the problem was the ICU or not.
ABS light is on sometimes, off sometimes *Status - parts on order*
I don't know what's up with this. It almost seems like every other time I start the car, the ABS light stays on. And every time I've tried to pull a code, it doesn't flash meaning there is no code stored.
14 November 2017 Update: After watching some YouTube videos of 94-97 Accord ABS unit service (identical ABS unit to this car), I purchased the two O-rings that are replaceable, to see if maybe the unit is losing pressure and causing the ABS light to come on. I'll also completely replace and bleed the ABS unit fluid.
18 October 2018 Update: ABS pump is fried, O-rings did nothing. I pulled the ABS fuses to prevent the pump from running, so now the ABS light is on all the time. One day I may bite the bullet and replace the pump.
22 January 2019 Update: Finally ordered a replacement ABS pump, hopefully that will get everything fixed up after I install it soon.
Water leak behind ECU *Status - may never get around to it, it may have fixed itself*
lol I've probably been the poster child for 3rd gen Integra water leaks on this forum over the years. Search for Water Leaks in this forum and you'll find my posts abound on the subject. There's that one lingering leak behind the ECU that I've just never done anything about, and don't know if I'll ever get to it. It's been leaking now for oh... at least EIGHT years, so yeah, probably won't get to it.
19 August 2016 update: I'm not even sure if it's still leaking or not. I haven't noticed any soaked carpet in a number of years, though. Water mineral deposits may have sealed it up lol.
Moisture in trunk *Status - when I get around to it*
My car was rear ended and the right tail light replaced back in August 2010. My old tail lights were both sealed along the top edge of the lens to remedy water that was getting in the trunk back in 2005, and now moisture is getting in there again. So I suspect it's this right tail light that was replaced but I've never sealed around the edge of the lens.
Front sway bar bushings and end links *Status - parts acquired*
I replaced all my factory rubber bushings with HardRace rubber bushings back 2-3 years ago, but while I was working on that I found that my front sway bar end links are trashed. One of these days I need to replace those. *edit* also forgot that the front sway bar bushings are also pretty trashed. Those didn't come with the HardRace kit so hopefully I'll also replace those along with the end links.
22 January 2019 update: Installed Moog end links but couldn't get the new end link bushings to go on with the included hardware. Probably going to replace with AC Delco factory-style end links. Have new sway bar chassis bushings sitting on the bench waiting to be installed.
Driver side CV axle *Status - COMPLETE!*
Just noticed that the outer boot on my driver side CV axle is getting ready to rip open. Thankfully it hasn't done so yet, so it hasn't made a mess on everything. But I can see the crack starting in the rubber bellows, so I need to replace this before we driver the car to FL on vacation. The axle on there now is a reman from NAPA, been on there 3 or 4 years now. I recently replaced my passenger side axle with a brand new unit from O'Reilly so I'll be getting a matching brand new axle for the left side.
19 August 2016 additions:
Car jerking, like clutch slipping *Status - FIXED*
A few months ago the car started making this nasty hesitating and jerking when the throttle is opened, particularly at lower speeds. I was thinking it was the clutch slipping at first, but now I'm starting to think it's more so fuel or ignition related. Still more research to do.
Update 24 August: new distributor installed, swapped out under the previous distributor's lifetime warranty. Car fixed, drives 100% normal!
Oil light flashing *Status - should be fixed*
I first saw this earlier this week, when the car died after hesitating and jerking really bad. Just did it again today also. Runs and drives fine and oil level is fine, so I'm thinking it's either the oil pressure switch, or the ICU that I just swapped in a couple weeks ago, or the alternator which has been in the car almost 12 years now, and actually came out of a 99-00 B16A Civic Si.
Update 24 August: Most likely a non-issue.
Clutch interlock switch pedal pad *Status - FIXED*
That stupid little piece of plastic just broke today. I already replaced the other 2 a few years ago - the one on the brake pedal, and the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal. This will be an easy fix, just stick a small bolt and nut into the hole on the clutch pedal and it will be done.
24 August update: pulled whole clutch pedal out, put in a bolt and washer where the plastic piece used to be, all good now.
/end of additions
14 November 2017 additions:
Power steering pump leaking *Status - COMPLETE!*
I noticed my power steering fluid level was low a few months ago, causing noise when turning the wheels. I filled up the reservoir, but also noticed the belts underneath the pump were looking pretty nasty. After studying parts diagrams and the Helms manual, I found something like 6 o-rings in the pump assembly that probably need to be replaced. I also found a PS pump o-ring kit on RockAuto for this car, so I will be ordering that kit and basically doing a rebuild of the PS pump, hopefully this coming Winter 2018.
18 October 2018 Update: JUST NOW got around to getting the rebuild parts, and will be breaking down the PS pump and installing the o-rings hopefully in the next few weeks.
3 December 2018 Update: Broke down the PS pump over the Thanksgiving holiday and got it all back together with a new oil seal and new o-rings. Everything seems to be working great now with no leaks!
Broken interior parts *Status - COMPLETE*
I have several interior parts that need replacing. The clip holding the left hinge peg of the coupe cargo cover has been broken for awhile. I replaced that this past Friday, at a cost of TEN DOLLARS shipped for that one little clip. My clutch pedal pad was also completely worn through and falling off, so I ordered 2 new pads for the brake and clutch pedals. Just have to put those on. I have a few trim piece rattles I'd like to address some day, but I'm not sure if it's even worth it since I hardly drive the car anymore.
Timing belt replacements *Status - COMPLETE!*
The car now has 361,600 miles on it, as of 14 November 2017. The last time the timing belt was replaced was at around 270,000, so it's now time for the car's 5th timing belt. I've always done OEM in the past, but I'm thinking now I may just go with the Gates timing belt & water pump kit from RockAuto. I just can't stomach $250-$300 anymore for an OEM belt, pulley, and water pump. Hope to do that job sometime this coming Winter 2018.
18 October 2018 Update: Finally getting around to this job here in late 2018. Car has 365,000 now, about 5,000 past due for the timing belt change. I bought the parts in July but didn't want to sweat buckets working on the car in summer, so now I'm about ready to get to work on this.
3 December 2018 Update: Finished up the timing belt replacement work over Thanksgiving weekend, engine runs perfectly!
18 October 2018 Additions:
Oil Pan Gasket *Status - COMPLETE!*
I replaced the oil pan gasket along with the timing belt last time in July 2008 when I had the engine pulled out of the car. But it's been leaking again for a few years now, so I'm finally getting around to replacing it when I do this next timing belt replacement in the next few weeks. I have a Fel-Pro Permadry blue gasket with the steel inner frame in hand, ready to go on the car.
3 December 2018 Update: Finished the oil pan gasket install over Thanksgiving weekend, so far so good with no leaks!
Tires *Status - Half Completed"
So a few weeks ago I went to rotate my 205/45-16 Dunlop Direzza tires which were about 5,000 miles past due on rotation. Pulled the front wheels off and found cords showing on the inner tire edges. It's been probably 5 or 6 years since I last had an alignment on the car, and I went way too long before rotating these tires, so I'm blaming it on those two problems. So not wanting to drive on those tires anymore, I threw my stock wheels back on, but those wheels had some old, worn 195/55-15 Kumho tires which were rock hard and SUPER loud while driving. When checking the date code it appears the tires are made in 2004, 14 years ago!! So I jumped on Discount Tire Direct a couple weeks ago and found 195/50-15 Hankook Ventus V2 tires with a $50 off promotion, so they ended up costing less than $150 shipped! Yes I wanted 195/50 as I had that size on the stock wheels years ago and liked them MUCH better than the OEM 195/55 size, especially with my car's low ride height. So I got those in and installed and am now rolling on stock wheels for now. Later on I'll probably just buy 2 new 205/45-16 Direzza tires, replace the bad ones, and then flip the other 2 tires on the wheels because they have much more usable tread life left.
1 October 2019 additions (currently 370,568 miles on the car, original engine, original gearbox):
Guage cluster trip odometer *Status - COMPLETE!*
Back around May of this year I noticed one day that my trip odometer, which I always reset every time I fill up with gas, seemed like it had too few miles for the amount I had driven since last fill-up. Awhile later I looked at it again, and the numbers had not budged! DAMMIT! So now the trip odometer was broken (see post on page 13). I ordered an LS cluster off eBay, but the gauge cluster I received also had its trip odometer broken. So I sent it back, and ordered another one. Same deal. Sent it back and ordered a THIRD one. SAME DEAL!! 3 clusters, all 3 of them with broken trip odometers. By that time I was able to spot the ones on eBay with broken trip odometers. That was back in June and July. But now this past week I finally ordered a FOURTH gauge cluster, and this one works! I swapped out the trip odometer mechanicals, got it all back together, and finally have a functioning trip odometer once again.
PVC Valve *Status - Part Acquired*
Back when I overhauled my engine head and changed the head gasket (when I first started this thread), I put in a MKIV Supra PCV valve on the recommendation of others here on H-T (link below to the install). Apparently it flowed better or something? I don't know. It seems pretty gummed up now, 40K miles later. There's oily residue all over the breather box on the back of the block, which I think may be the source of some of the oily residue I'm seeing on my oil pan, despite replacing the oil pan gasket in November of last year. Just need to put it in.
LED Lighting + Dash Lights *Status - Partially Completed*
Last year I converted most of my exterior lighting to LED from SuperBrightLEDs.com, along with an electronic signal flasher, and they work awesome. But I still have a couple lights left to change, such as the front bumper corner marker lights, and the rear tail corner lights. Also in preparation of selling the car, I want to have ALL interior lights working, including all buttons and switches if I can help it. I have a couple of buttons that need new bulbs, so I may try to source LED's for those, and also need to install new map lights, LED of course.
General Cleanup + Paint (?) *Status - Not Started*
In preparation of selling the car, I want to clean up and polish the car as best as I can with the tools I have. The paint on the front end is in really bad shape, and I'm unsure yet whether I want to put money into repainting the front end in hopes of getting that money back out from the sale. Who knows. But the rest of the paint I want to try to correct as best I can with the tools and knowledge I've learned over the past couple of years. I've already refinished the OEM wheels with fresh gunmetal paint and clear coat, and those came out really nice. I may also try to source a few replacement interior bits, buttons, switches etc. to replace the ones that are pretty worn down in the car now, like the sunroof switch and the rear defroster switch which look pretty rough in my car.
So there we have it. The problems with my car, and hopefully I'll be posting the process of me fixing (at least some of) them.
I'll probably add to this if I think of other things, and update the status on things as they change. Might even try to keep an index of links to posts here in this first post also.
Index:
So besides the head gasket issue, there are a few other lingering issues that have either been present for years, or are just annoying, or both. I'm going to try to document the repair process in this thread. Some things I may just never get around to, but at least I can use this as sort of a "log" of what needs to be done and what's been completed.
I've never been that great at taking photos of projects or work I'm doing on the car, but maybe I can make myself do it this weekend.
So here in no particular order are issues I'm having on the car, status, and what my plans are to deal with the issue:
Blown head gasket: *Status - COMPLETE! Engine running smoothly*
I have ordered a new OEM head gasket, intake manifold gasket, I have an OEM exhaust manifold gasket sitting in the tool box that I ordered probably 6 years ago lol... also ordered 16 valve seals (they sent me 2 bags of 10 haha), and new camshaft seals. No I'm not doing the timing belt or water pump or any of that other stuff because those things have less than 60K on them at the moment. The plan is to start taking the car apart tomorrow, 4 July. Unfortunately the machine shop won't be open Friday so I'll have to wait until Monday to take it up there to get it checked for flatness, and also possibly have it cleaned. Then put it back together during the evenings next week.
The parts I listed are the only parts I'm replacing, hopefully, unless I find some other issue. I'm not doing any kind of engine overhaul or rebuild. I don't have the time or money for that. I've been bike commuting a couple times a week which has been awesome (went 3 weeks on 1 tank of gas as of last Friday) but I still need my car sometimes.
Engine rattling noise at certain RPM, most audible when shifting: *Status - COMPLETED during cylinder head reassembly*
This has been an annoyance for several years now. I'm almost certain it's the LMA's that need replacing as they're the old-style oil-filled cylinders. Along with the OEM parts above I also ordered a set of the revised spring-type LMA's from Science of Speed, and will be replacing those along with the head gasket while the head is off the car and camshafts are out.
Weird shifter creaking noise *Status - COMPLETE!*
My shifter (AutoZone short shifter installed 12 years ago) has been making this weird creaking noise when moving it from left to right in the middle of the H pattern. I noticed awhile back while under the car that the rubber seal under there is all dry rotted, so I'm sure the pivot is all full of junk. I have new rubber seals to fix that up, hopefully while the car is jacked up this weekend while the engine head is off.
Weak, flickering Brake indicator light *Status - went away by itself apparently*
This started happening sometime last year. I made a thread on it somewhere. It actually stopped doing it for several months, but recently started doing it again. It may be an issue with the Integrated Control Unit based on PM's from another member, so I'll probably try to open that up and check it out, or possibly get a refurbished unit of eBay or something. I've checked all the usual suspects related to the Brake indicator light, and it's none of those.
19 August 2016 Update: the brake light hasn't flickered for a LONG time now, almost seems like it just went away. I swapped the ICU a couple weeks ago, but since it had already stopped doing the flickering, I have no idea if the problem was the ICU or not.
ABS light is on sometimes, off sometimes *Status - parts on order*
I don't know what's up with this. It almost seems like every other time I start the car, the ABS light stays on. And every time I've tried to pull a code, it doesn't flash meaning there is no code stored.
14 November 2017 Update: After watching some YouTube videos of 94-97 Accord ABS unit service (identical ABS unit to this car), I purchased the two O-rings that are replaceable, to see if maybe the unit is losing pressure and causing the ABS light to come on. I'll also completely replace and bleed the ABS unit fluid.
18 October 2018 Update: ABS pump is fried, O-rings did nothing. I pulled the ABS fuses to prevent the pump from running, so now the ABS light is on all the time. One day I may bite the bullet and replace the pump.
22 January 2019 Update: Finally ordered a replacement ABS pump, hopefully that will get everything fixed up after I install it soon.
Water leak behind ECU *Status - may never get around to it, it may have fixed itself*
lol I've probably been the poster child for 3rd gen Integra water leaks on this forum over the years. Search for Water Leaks in this forum and you'll find my posts abound on the subject. There's that one lingering leak behind the ECU that I've just never done anything about, and don't know if I'll ever get to it. It's been leaking now for oh... at least EIGHT years, so yeah, probably won't get to it.
19 August 2016 update: I'm not even sure if it's still leaking or not. I haven't noticed any soaked carpet in a number of years, though. Water mineral deposits may have sealed it up lol.
Moisture in trunk *Status - when I get around to it*
My car was rear ended and the right tail light replaced back in August 2010. My old tail lights were both sealed along the top edge of the lens to remedy water that was getting in the trunk back in 2005, and now moisture is getting in there again. So I suspect it's this right tail light that was replaced but I've never sealed around the edge of the lens.
Front sway bar bushings and end links *Status - parts acquired*
I replaced all my factory rubber bushings with HardRace rubber bushings back 2-3 years ago, but while I was working on that I found that my front sway bar end links are trashed. One of these days I need to replace those. *edit* also forgot that the front sway bar bushings are also pretty trashed. Those didn't come with the HardRace kit so hopefully I'll also replace those along with the end links.
22 January 2019 update: Installed Moog end links but couldn't get the new end link bushings to go on with the included hardware. Probably going to replace with AC Delco factory-style end links. Have new sway bar chassis bushings sitting on the bench waiting to be installed.
Driver side CV axle *Status - COMPLETE!*
Just noticed that the outer boot on my driver side CV axle is getting ready to rip open. Thankfully it hasn't done so yet, so it hasn't made a mess on everything. But I can see the crack starting in the rubber bellows, so I need to replace this before we driver the car to FL on vacation. The axle on there now is a reman from NAPA, been on there 3 or 4 years now. I recently replaced my passenger side axle with a brand new unit from O'Reilly so I'll be getting a matching brand new axle for the left side.
19 August 2016 additions:
Car jerking, like clutch slipping *Status - FIXED*
A few months ago the car started making this nasty hesitating and jerking when the throttle is opened, particularly at lower speeds. I was thinking it was the clutch slipping at first, but now I'm starting to think it's more so fuel or ignition related. Still more research to do.
Update 24 August: new distributor installed, swapped out under the previous distributor's lifetime warranty. Car fixed, drives 100% normal!
Oil light flashing *Status - should be fixed*
I first saw this earlier this week, when the car died after hesitating and jerking really bad. Just did it again today also. Runs and drives fine and oil level is fine, so I'm thinking it's either the oil pressure switch, or the ICU that I just swapped in a couple weeks ago, or the alternator which has been in the car almost 12 years now, and actually came out of a 99-00 B16A Civic Si.
Update 24 August: Most likely a non-issue.
Clutch interlock switch pedal pad *Status - FIXED*
That stupid little piece of plastic just broke today. I already replaced the other 2 a few years ago - the one on the brake pedal, and the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal. This will be an easy fix, just stick a small bolt and nut into the hole on the clutch pedal and it will be done.
24 August update: pulled whole clutch pedal out, put in a bolt and washer where the plastic piece used to be, all good now.
/end of additions
14 November 2017 additions:
Power steering pump leaking *Status - COMPLETE!*
I noticed my power steering fluid level was low a few months ago, causing noise when turning the wheels. I filled up the reservoir, but also noticed the belts underneath the pump were looking pretty nasty. After studying parts diagrams and the Helms manual, I found something like 6 o-rings in the pump assembly that probably need to be replaced. I also found a PS pump o-ring kit on RockAuto for this car, so I will be ordering that kit and basically doing a rebuild of the PS pump, hopefully this coming Winter 2018.
18 October 2018 Update: JUST NOW got around to getting the rebuild parts, and will be breaking down the PS pump and installing the o-rings hopefully in the next few weeks.
3 December 2018 Update: Broke down the PS pump over the Thanksgiving holiday and got it all back together with a new oil seal and new o-rings. Everything seems to be working great now with no leaks!
Broken interior parts *Status - COMPLETE*
I have several interior parts that need replacing. The clip holding the left hinge peg of the coupe cargo cover has been broken for awhile. I replaced that this past Friday, at a cost of TEN DOLLARS shipped for that one little clip. My clutch pedal pad was also completely worn through and falling off, so I ordered 2 new pads for the brake and clutch pedals. Just have to put those on. I have a few trim piece rattles I'd like to address some day, but I'm not sure if it's even worth it since I hardly drive the car anymore.
Timing belt replacements *Status - COMPLETE!*
The car now has 361,600 miles on it, as of 14 November 2017. The last time the timing belt was replaced was at around 270,000, so it's now time for the car's 5th timing belt. I've always done OEM in the past, but I'm thinking now I may just go with the Gates timing belt & water pump kit from RockAuto. I just can't stomach $250-$300 anymore for an OEM belt, pulley, and water pump. Hope to do that job sometime this coming Winter 2018.
18 October 2018 Update: Finally getting around to this job here in late 2018. Car has 365,000 now, about 5,000 past due for the timing belt change. I bought the parts in July but didn't want to sweat buckets working on the car in summer, so now I'm about ready to get to work on this.
3 December 2018 Update: Finished up the timing belt replacement work over Thanksgiving weekend, engine runs perfectly!
18 October 2018 Additions:
Oil Pan Gasket *Status - COMPLETE!*
I replaced the oil pan gasket along with the timing belt last time in July 2008 when I had the engine pulled out of the car. But it's been leaking again for a few years now, so I'm finally getting around to replacing it when I do this next timing belt replacement in the next few weeks. I have a Fel-Pro Permadry blue gasket with the steel inner frame in hand, ready to go on the car.
3 December 2018 Update: Finished the oil pan gasket install over Thanksgiving weekend, so far so good with no leaks!
Tires *Status - Half Completed"
So a few weeks ago I went to rotate my 205/45-16 Dunlop Direzza tires which were about 5,000 miles past due on rotation. Pulled the front wheels off and found cords showing on the inner tire edges. It's been probably 5 or 6 years since I last had an alignment on the car, and I went way too long before rotating these tires, so I'm blaming it on those two problems. So not wanting to drive on those tires anymore, I threw my stock wheels back on, but those wheels had some old, worn 195/55-15 Kumho tires which were rock hard and SUPER loud while driving. When checking the date code it appears the tires are made in 2004, 14 years ago!! So I jumped on Discount Tire Direct a couple weeks ago and found 195/50-15 Hankook Ventus V2 tires with a $50 off promotion, so they ended up costing less than $150 shipped! Yes I wanted 195/50 as I had that size on the stock wheels years ago and liked them MUCH better than the OEM 195/55 size, especially with my car's low ride height. So I got those in and installed and am now rolling on stock wheels for now. Later on I'll probably just buy 2 new 205/45-16 Direzza tires, replace the bad ones, and then flip the other 2 tires on the wheels because they have much more usable tread life left.
1 October 2019 additions (currently 370,568 miles on the car, original engine, original gearbox):
Guage cluster trip odometer *Status - COMPLETE!*
Back around May of this year I noticed one day that my trip odometer, which I always reset every time I fill up with gas, seemed like it had too few miles for the amount I had driven since last fill-up. Awhile later I looked at it again, and the numbers had not budged! DAMMIT! So now the trip odometer was broken (see post on page 13). I ordered an LS cluster off eBay, but the gauge cluster I received also had its trip odometer broken. So I sent it back, and ordered another one. Same deal. Sent it back and ordered a THIRD one. SAME DEAL!! 3 clusters, all 3 of them with broken trip odometers. By that time I was able to spot the ones on eBay with broken trip odometers. That was back in June and July. But now this past week I finally ordered a FOURTH gauge cluster, and this one works! I swapped out the trip odometer mechanicals, got it all back together, and finally have a functioning trip odometer once again.
PVC Valve *Status - Part Acquired*
Back when I overhauled my engine head and changed the head gasket (when I first started this thread), I put in a MKIV Supra PCV valve on the recommendation of others here on H-T (link below to the install). Apparently it flowed better or something? I don't know. It seems pretty gummed up now, 40K miles later. There's oily residue all over the breather box on the back of the block, which I think may be the source of some of the oily residue I'm seeing on my oil pan, despite replacing the oil pan gasket in November of last year. Just need to put it in.
LED Lighting + Dash Lights *Status - Partially Completed*
Last year I converted most of my exterior lighting to LED from SuperBrightLEDs.com, along with an electronic signal flasher, and they work awesome. But I still have a couple lights left to change, such as the front bumper corner marker lights, and the rear tail corner lights. Also in preparation of selling the car, I want to have ALL interior lights working, including all buttons and switches if I can help it. I have a couple of buttons that need new bulbs, so I may try to source LED's for those, and also need to install new map lights, LED of course.
General Cleanup + Paint (?) *Status - Not Started*
In preparation of selling the car, I want to clean up and polish the car as best as I can with the tools I have. The paint on the front end is in really bad shape, and I'm unsure yet whether I want to put money into repainting the front end in hopes of getting that money back out from the sale. Who knows. But the rest of the paint I want to try to correct as best I can with the tools and knowledge I've learned over the past couple of years. I've already refinished the OEM wheels with fresh gunmetal paint and clear coat, and those came out really nice. I may also try to source a few replacement interior bits, buttons, switches etc. to replace the ones that are pretty worn down in the car now, like the sunroof switch and the rear defroster switch which look pretty rough in my car.
So there we have it. The problems with my car, and hopefully I'll be posting the process of me fixing (at least some of) them.
I'll probably add to this if I think of other things, and update the status on things as they change. Might even try to keep an index of links to posts here in this first post also.Index:
- Head pulled off, parts laid out
- Head back from machine shop
- Head re-assembly commences
- Shifter rejuvenation
- Toyota Supra Turbo PCV valve
- Cleaned block surface, new CV axle
- Starting the reassembly process
- First engine start after reassembly
- Diagnosing false coolant temp reading
- ECT sensor fixed & windshield washer tube clip fix
- Distributor issues (initially thought to be clutch slipping)
- ABS pump musings
- Timing belt + oil pan parts ordering & installation
Last edited by PatrickGSR94; 10-01-2019 at 09:05 PM.
07-03-2013, 06:26 PM
#2
07-03-2013, 09:40 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
looking forward to this thread...
I use to visit here more often and see you post about your teg's mileage lol
I use to visit here more often and see you post about your teg's mileage lol
07-04-2013, 06:34 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
WOW! that's a lot of miles but it show that if you take care of your baby it will take care of you.
07-04-2013, 08:53 AM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Brief posting from iPhone lol
And so it begins...
Hmmm should be coolant in here methinks
Uh looks worse than I thought. Thought there was just coolant getting into cylinders but looks like it was mixing with the oil as well. Couldn't really tell from the dipstick.
And so it begins...
Hmmm should be coolant in here methinks
Uh looks worse than I thought. Thought there was just coolant getting into cylinders but looks like it was mixing with the oil as well. Couldn't really tell from the dipstick.
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07-04-2013, 09:29 AM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Got a late start this morning because I was watching Stage 6 of the 100th Le Tour de France this morning. I'm really just taking it slow, haven't even raised the car up or drained the coolant yet because I'm feeling lazy
Lol yeah I feel lucky that it went this far. I figured it would probably happen some day. Gotta get it fixed quick because my car is the only one the bike rack will go on, and we're taking our bikes with us to the beach on vacation next month.
Haha no there are no coolant hoses over by the ECU. It's water coming down through the inside of the chassis and inside the car.
Haha no there are no coolant hoses over by the ECU. It's water coming down through the inside of the chassis and inside the car.
07-04-2013, 09:34 AM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
07-04-2013, 09:52 AM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Not on 3G Integras it's not. Heater core is behind dash center stack. ECU is on the other side of the glovebox by the door. Believe me I've troubleshooted this leak for years, just haven't gotten around to doing anything about it.
07-04-2013, 02:59 PM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Man it's sloowww going hahah, just now got the camshafts out. What bolt do folks use to pull the rocker arm shafts out? I think Helms says 12mm thread.
Well I managed to break off the end of my 3/16" punch in the intake camshaft as I was trying to use that to hold the shaft in place while I loosened the cam gear bolt. The piece came out freely out of the camshaft once I had it on the work bench and just turned it so the hole faced down. However there was also a small metal fragment between the rocker arm pads that I lifted out with a screwdriver, but then it dropped down somewhere into the head
Not sure what I'm gonna do about that. It may have gone through the spark plug hole, in which case I can just get it when the head comes off. Otherwise hopefully I'll find it later or perhaps when the head is cleaned at the machine shop that will take care of it.
Trunk full'o parts
Head bolts now accessible
Keeping it all organized
Well I managed to break off the end of my 3/16" punch in the intake camshaft as I was trying to use that to hold the shaft in place while I loosened the cam gear bolt. The piece came out freely out of the camshaft once I had it on the work bench and just turned it so the hole faced down. However there was also a small metal fragment between the rocker arm pads that I lifted out with a screwdriver, but then it dropped down somewhere into the head
Not sure what I'm gonna do about that. It may have gone through the spark plug hole, in which case I can just get it when the head comes off. Otherwise hopefully I'll find it later or perhaps when the head is cleaned at the machine shop that will take care of it.Trunk full'o parts
Head bolts now accessible
Keeping it all organized
07-04-2013, 09:16 PM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Finally got it out! Pulled the head and intake manifold at the same time, and gotta say I'm sure glad I did. I remember the nightmare it was pulling the intake manifold a few years back, and I'm sure glad I'll be able to remove that thing with the head out of the engine bay.
Something odd I saw was the middle head bolt on the intake side had oil on the threads when all the other bolts were dry. After removing the head I could see oil inside that hole. Should I be concerned about that?
First time the pistons have ever been exposed. I think they look alright actually, for having 329,000 miles on them. #3 and #4 pistons are definitely wet, though. Wait, is that why those pistons have less carbon buildup on them, because they've had coolant leaking in there?
Oil inside the upper middle head bolt hole
Current parts layout
Pulled the LMA's out and they definitely feel rather sticky. Can't wait to get it all back together with the new spring-type LMA's. Hopefully it will cure the annoying sound I've been hearing as the RPM's fall during upshifting.
So I have all new valve seals, should I just let the machine shop install them? Helms shows special tools needed to get them out and install the new ones. I'm guessing I could save some cash by renting a valve spring compressor and pulling the valvetrain myself.
Something odd I saw was the middle head bolt on the intake side had oil on the threads when all the other bolts were dry. After removing the head I could see oil inside that hole. Should I be concerned about that?
First time the pistons have ever been exposed. I think they look alright actually, for having 329,000 miles on them. #3 and #4 pistons are definitely wet, though. Wait, is that why those pistons have less carbon buildup on them, because they've had coolant leaking in there?
Oil inside the upper middle head bolt hole
Current parts layout
Pulled the LMA's out and they definitely feel rather sticky. Can't wait to get it all back together with the new spring-type LMA's. Hopefully it will cure the annoying sound I've been hearing as the RPM's fall during upshifting.
So I have all new valve seals, should I just let the machine shop install them? Helms shows special tools needed to get them out and install the new ones. I'm guessing I could save some cash by renting a valve spring compressor and pulling the valvetrain myself.
07-05-2013, 07:28 PM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Had other stuff going on today so not too much work in the garage. Got the IM separated from the head, and also removed the IM studs from the head. Might see if the machine shop can freshen up the IM mating surface on the head, as there are some remnants of the old gasket left.
Managed to break one of the IM studs. I'm hoping the machine shop can get it out because there's absolutely nothing I have that will get it out, and I'm not going to risk drilling the thing.
Also found out the IAB solenoid, attached to the vacuum tank under the IM, is pretty much disintegrated. New one is $130 :eek: and I can't find a single one for sale on eBay. I'm actually trying to decide whether I should just spring for a new one so I can go ahead and get this back together as soon as possible instead of running around trying to find a used one.
It just keeps getting better!
Vac tank and solenoid:
The mounting tab broke, and took some of the solenoid's housing with it:
The little filter piece was literally falling apart in my hands:
Broken stud... really sucks:
My first look at the valves, actually doesn't look too shabby IMHO for 329K miles of use, intake up top, exhaust along the bottom:
Managed to break one of the IM studs. I'm hoping the machine shop can get it out because there's absolutely nothing I have that will get it out, and I'm not going to risk drilling the thing.
Also found out the IAB solenoid, attached to the vacuum tank under the IM, is pretty much disintegrated. New one is $130 :eek: and I can't find a single one for sale on eBay. I'm actually trying to decide whether I should just spring for a new one so I can go ahead and get this back together as soon as possible instead of running around trying to find a used one.
It just keeps getting better!
Vac tank and solenoid:
The mounting tab broke, and took some of the solenoid's housing with it:
The little filter piece was literally falling apart in my hands:
Broken stud... really sucks:
My first look at the valves, actually doesn't look too shabby IMHO for 329K miles of use, intake up top, exhaust along the bottom:
07-05-2013, 11:00 PM
#15
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Couple things... the machine shop should have no problem pulling out your broken intake mani stud. I would definitely have them do a vacuum test on the head - more than likely with the miles this engine has, it probably has some heavy carbon build up on the valves. Might want to strongly consider having them recondition it while its off (disassemble, clean/test, valve job w/ new valve stem seals, etc).
We've got a few spare used vac tanks at the shop. Let me know if you decide you want to replace yours.
We've got a few spare used vac tanks at the shop. Let me know if you decide you want to replace yours.
07-05-2013, 11:21 PM
#16
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
unless some real rarity happened you don't have a blown HG you have a warped block deck or head or both that caused your coolant problem. i have seen more than one b18c that had sleeve shift and took the block out of square. usually can be fixed by decking the block. make absolutely sure they use an ultra fine RA cutting wheel made for MLS gaskets
cylinder head looks amazing for that mileage i have never been able to get a b18c to go over 80k without flying apart
heatercore is a complete bitch. i did one when i had my 97, it's worse than pulling the engine. whole dash has to come out
cylinder head looks amazing for that mileage i have never been able to get a b18c to go over 80k without flying apart
heatercore is a complete bitch. i did one when i had my 97, it's worse than pulling the engine. whole dash has to come out
07-06-2013, 11:07 AM
#18
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
decking the block is only $40, same with the head. just find someone who knows what they are doing to check them. sleeve shift is very common though
the other possibility is that you just had some degree of bolt stretch/loosening that caused it but a guy who knows what he's looking for should be able to tell. if you have a perfect straight edge you might be able to lay across the cylinders and look for light. if you see any at all it's out of square. same with the head.
you got more miles out of that engine that anyone i have ever met, talked to, or read about.
it's the nature of mechanical objects you have to spend $$ on the upkeep
the other possibility is that you just had some degree of bolt stretch/loosening that caused it but a guy who knows what he's looking for should be able to tell. if you have a perfect straight edge you might be able to lay across the cylinders and look for light. if you see any at all it's out of square. same with the head.
you got more miles out of that engine that anyone i have ever met, talked to, or read about.
it's the nature of mechanical objects you have to spend $$ on the upkeep
07-07-2013, 11:57 AM
#19
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
What were your compression numbers last test you did ? really interested to know what it pushes after that many miles !!!
hope to get my GSR to that my miles but I think the k24 I have sitting around will find it's way into my teg before it see that many Km's lol neat to see a car with that many miles still going
hope to get my GSR to that my miles but I think the k24 I have sitting around will find it's way into my teg before it see that many Km's lol neat to see a car with that many miles still going
07-07-2013, 12:34 PM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
I ran a compression test a month ago and got 248-242-267-267 on cylinders 1-4. Oddly enough it seems that cylinders 3 and 4 are the ones that were taking on coolant. I was going to do a leakdown test but figured it was pointless since I knew for sure that coolant was getting past the HG.
Helms lists max difference as 10% I believe, and 242 from 267 is 25 which is less than 10% of the 267 reading.
Helms lists max difference as 10% I believe, and 242 from 267 is 25 which is less than 10% of the 267 reading.
07-07-2013, 12:39 PM
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
decking the block is only $40, same with the head. just find someone who knows what they are doing to check them. sleeve shift is very common though
the other possibility is that you just had some degree of bolt stretch/loosening that caused it but a guy who knows what he's looking for should be able to tell. if you have a perfect straight edge you might be able to lay across the cylinders and look for light. if you see any at all it's out of square. same with the head.
you got more miles out of that engine that anyone i have ever met, talked to, or read about.
it's the nature of mechanical objects you have to spend $$ on the upkeep
the other possibility is that you just had some degree of bolt stretch/loosening that caused it but a guy who knows what he's looking for should be able to tell. if you have a perfect straight edge you might be able to lay across the cylinders and look for light. if you see any at all it's out of square. same with the head.
you got more miles out of that engine that anyone i have ever met, talked to, or read about.
it's the nature of mechanical objects you have to spend $$ on the upkeep
As an aside, if the block and head were both decked a hair's width or whatever it has to be, what would that do to camshaft timing?
Also I've heard of people spraying a new MLS head gasket with copper spray on both sides before installing. Should I do that here?
07-07-2013, 02:25 PM
#22
Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
Nice thread man
I am more interested in the water leak issue on the passenger side. I seen in that other thread FCM was talking about that gasket that doesn't come from Honda, but can be had from body shops, but I know you have already figured out your issue and where it's leaking from.
I am more interested in the water leak issue on the passenger side. I seen in that other thread FCM was talking about that gasket that doesn't come from Honda, but can be had from body shops, but I know you have already figured out your issue and where it's leaking from.
07-07-2013, 03:33 PM
#24
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Re: PatrickGSR94's broken@$$ Integra fix-it thread!
I ran a compression test a month ago and got 248-242-267-267 on cylinders 1-4. Oddly enough it seems that cylinders 3 and 4 are the ones that were taking on coolant. I was going to do a leakdown test but figured it was pointless since I knew for sure that coolant was getting past the HG.
Helms lists max difference as 10% I believe, and 242 from 267 is 25 which is less than 10% of the 267 reading.
Helms lists max difference as 10% I believe, and 242 from 267 is 25 which is less than 10% of the 267 reading.
07-07-2013, 07:27 PM
#25