mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

I was doing research on the LS/Vtec build and compiling the info I found. Fortunately, my income tax check is substantially larger than what I was planning, so I can go ahead and get a GSR instead of the LS I was gonna have to settle for.
How sweet is that??

I figured this might be useful to someone wanting more info as I did.
Also, try not to post comments on how bad the info is or how bad it sucked or how stupid I am, blah blah blah.
If you have useful FACTUAL info, please feel free to add.

Oh, and I'm responsible for nothing you do to your car by reading this info
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Links to different LS/Vtec articles:
Note: Some are good and some may not work anymore.

http://www.angelfire.com/dc/lsvtec/2019.html
http://www.geocities.com/Motor....html
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...c.php
http://www.drtracing.com
http://www.c-speedracing.com
http://www.hondastyle.com/news/wmview.php?ArtID=5
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h....html
http://www.sportcompactcarweb....ybrid/
http://www.angelfire.com/dc/lsvtec/2019.html
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/....html
http://www.diyracing.com/ls_vtechowto.html
http://www.diyracing.com/ls_vtecpartslist.html
http://www.diyracing.com/sshowto.html
http://www.geocities.com/Motor....html
http://www.dynocenter.com/95LS_cgaines3.html
good good info
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...11889
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1499806
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LS/Vtec builds

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1118097
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1036035
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1415261
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Questions you need to ask before you buy parts:

What cams?
Tuning device?
Where do you want the HP?
Redline?
How much HP?
Driveability?
Reliability?
¼ mile time?
Powerband?
$$$$ how much to spend?$$$$
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Different setups and parts lists + pricing:

B18a block
https://honda-tech.com cost ~$565 shipped
Golden Eagle lsvtec kit and GSR timing belt
https://honda-tech.com cost $260 shipped
.25 os P30 pistons
http://www.jhpusa.com cost $220 shipped
PR4 rods shotpeened with arp rod bolts
http://www.ebay.com cost $150 shipped
ARP b18c5 head studs
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com cost $125 shipped
Honda piston rings .25 os
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com cost $115 shipped
ACL rod, main, and thrust bearing kit
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com cost $118 shipped
ARP Main studs
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com cost $88 shipped

im going to be using pr3 ecu. with the knock sensor on the block.
Hey, so you know, you can cut your price on those acl bearings in half.
http://www.autohausaz.com
parts:
acu061522
hon061503
hon048639
$55.90 shipped.

Cost:
Here are the parts you need for a great setup..
B18b/a block.... $600
B18C1 Head...... $1000 VERY hard to get..
ITR pistons..... $250
ALL new bearings.. $300
Block assembly..... $400
Balance crank...... $200
Head gasket....... $55
Re-tap oil line... $100
Skunk2 intake manifold $320
Type-R throttle body.. $250
Wire harness... $200
Shift linkage... $150
ECU.. GSR.... $300
GS-R tranny... $750
Fuel Regulator + Guage $175 installed.
Cam Gears... $250 installed.
Type-R cams.. $450 installed.
Valve Adjustment.. $50
Motor installation... $800
Intake manifold gasket..$25
Oil/filter.. $15
Axles... $200
Header...4-1 $297
Cold are intake.. $225
New timing belt. $80
New oil pump... $150
New water pump... $150
Dyno Tuning.. $100
270 CC Injectors.. $200 or used prelude..$100
Apex V-AFC controller..$320
6 puck clutch $350
Resurface flywheel.... $30

àB16A Head assembly (Fuel rails, Dizzy, ect): $475
àITR Pistons/rings: $190
à Balance and Shot Peene: 200
àGolden Eagle LS/Vtec conversion parts: $249
àGSR water pump/timing belt: $79
àGSR Oil pump: $80
àAEM Cam gears: $115
-----------$1388.00----------

àHondata S100: $250
àITR Clutch: $150
àPrelude 270cc injectors: $120
àWalbro fuel pump: $100
àB&M fuel pressure regulator: $50

·DOHC VTEC B-series cylinder head complete with valve cover, intake manifold, VTEC solenoid assembly and internals
· VTEC ECU
· VTEC B-series distributor $125.00
· '90-'01 Integra LS head gasket
· '94-'01 Integra GS-R head bolts (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si) $42.44
· '94-'01 Integra GS-R water pump (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si)
· '94-'01 Integra GS-R timing belt (also Type R)
· '94-'01 Integra GS-R knock sensor (also Type R, del Sol DOHC VTEC and Civic Si) $20.00

· -4 steel braided hose with female ends, 22 inches in length
· 1/8-inch NPT female to 1/8-inch NPT female to 1/8-inch BSPT male on run pipe tee
· 1/8-inch NPT male to -4 male straight adaptor
· 3/8-inch NPT male to -4 male straight adaptor
· 1/8-inch internal pipe plug
· 1/8-inch NPT pipe tap
· 3/8-inch NPT pipe tap
· 14mm drill bit
· 10.9mm drill bit
· 12mmx1.25mm tap


B16A1 HEAD
B18B1 BLOCK

P30 PISTONS
SHOTPEENED STOCK RODS
ARP ROD BOLTS
CTR INTAKE CAM
ITR INTAKE MANIFOLD
HOTSHOT 4-1 HEADER
CUSTOM COLD AIR INTAKE
ACT CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE
LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL (-5lbs.)
B&M FPR
REPROGRAMMED PR3 ECU WITH MUGEN LIKE PROGRAM

Y1 TRANNY
TOKICO ADJ SHOCKS
NEUSPEED RACE SPRINGS
FULLY GUTTED INTERIOR
GUTTED ENGINE BAY
:no ac lines/condensor/compressor/etc.
This setup should yield a projected 165-175hp to the wheels. I calculated the cr to be in the high 11's, not sure exactly. I'll be redlining at 8500 rpms. With the scale tipping at around 1900lbs., my goal is to stop the clocks in the 12 zone with slicks.

Misc. Tech arts. on LS/Vtec's
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LS/VTEC CR/VTEC INFO FOR THOSE WHO CAN'T SEARCH Posted: Thu May 27, 2004 10:20 am

I've decided to do something worth while for you all and post the basics the ins and outs of LS/VTEC and B20/VTEC engines. Now if you don't know what LS/VTEC is then you shouldn't even be here, but just incase...LS/VTEC is the process of taking a B-series non-VTEC block, either B18A, B18B, or theres the B20/VTEC which uses a B20 Block. With your B-series block your going to put a VTEC head onto it, and your VTEC head comes from one of 4 places. You'll be using either a B16A, B18C1, B18C5, or B17A Double Over Head Cam (DOHC) VTEC cylinder head. The B16A cylinder head can be found in the first and second generation Civic SiR's, the 1990-1993 Integra XSi, the Del-Sol VTEC known as B16A3, or the 1999 Honda Civic Si known as the B16A2. The B18C1 cylinder head is found on 1994-2001 Integra GSR's and the B18C5 cylinder head is found in the 1997-2001 Integra Type-R. Last but not least the B17A cylinder head is found in the 1992-1993 Integra GSR's.

Sadly there are ups and downs to the LS/VTEC motor. The downs are that the B18A/B18B has a poor rod stroke ratio. To explain the rod stroke ratio you have to understand what it is. Now If you take the engine's stroke, which is the distance between top dead center (TDC) and bottom dead center (BDC), (the distance the piston travels), and then measure the length of the connecting rod, you have the two numbers necessary to calculate the rod length to stroke ratio, now if you divide the rod length by the stroke, you get the rod length to stroke ratio. Now on the B18A1 the rod length is 137mm, and the stroke is 89mm so you divide the rod length by the stroke and come up with 1/54/1 rounded up. I think you get the idea. Now your wondering "Is 1/54/1 bad?" Well its not that bad compared to that of the GSR B18C1's 1/58/1 R/S ratio. However it is a general thought that the ideal R/S ratio is 1/75/1 which means that the B16A is nearly perfect with its 1/74/1 R/S ratio and we get that by dividing rod length of 134mm, by the stroke of 77mm to come up with 1/74/1. Now all this talk about rod stroke ratios probably has you wondering "Whats so important about that anyway?" Well think about it for a minute...think about the tremendous ammount of strain put on the pistons, rods, and cylinder walls at high rpm's in your engine. Do you think thats a good thing? The answer is no, its not a good thing to put alot of stress on a motor with a poor R/S ratio. The B18A/B wasn't meant to rev over 7000rpm it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, bad water pumps and oil pumps etc etc. But then you say, why would I build a LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC motor then? The answer is simple, it can be done cheap, make gobs of power, and most of all torque...the thing missing from all 1.8L Honda motors.

But now for the really good news, all those problems with the LS/VTEC can be fixed! You need to think of it this way, its not really the LS/VTEC part that needs fixing, its the LS block that needs fixing.
So we'll start with the block since it is the foundation of your entire engine. It is wise to make the decision now on the displacement you wish to run, because it will save you money. If you want to run a 2.0L motor your best bet is to start out with a B20Z from a CRV although a B20A will work. I just am telling you that because if you start with the B18A1 or B18B and have 1.8L you just might want 2.0L. It is definately more expensive to bore out a B18A1 and resleeve it than it is to take a B20Z and put a block gaurd in it or none at all. There are other block options though, if you choose to go absolutely over the top on a full race motor look into the Dart B20 Block, or Dart B18 Block. Some good points on the Dart Blocks.

- http://www.superhonda.com/foru...23908
Now the basics of the all motor LS/VTEC block. The LS block does not have a VTEC oil passage (you need this passage to produce the oil pressure to lock the VTEC lobes rocker arm) so you will need to tap the hole on the head or weld it shut. When threading it shut use a 1/8ntp fitting. Its best to have a machine shop thread it for the 1/8th fitting and then just screw it in. Heres what you need now the Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Piece I have it on my motor seen here.



Now this is the "OLD WAY" of doing the LS/VTEC and thank your lucky stars you don't have to do it that way anymore cause people had lots of problems with it the old way. But I'll post it for the LS/VTEC history segment.

"You have to make an external line from the oil pressure sender to the head. Use a 4an to 3/8th ntp plug on the head to a steel braided line to tee'd of to the oil pressure sender hole. You will need a 1/8th tee fitting, a 1/8th to 3/4th's fitting for the line to the tee, a 1/8th to 1/8th adapter to plug the block, and plug the oil pressure sender in the back of the tee. So it will look like this (the T will be used as the tee fitting) 18th to 1/8th adapter T oil pressure sender sensor oil line to head. A suggestion is to have the tee fitting so it is not directly on the block (especially if you are installing an oil pressure gauge) as it can literally crack the threads and you will shoot oil everywhere. So try to run stainless steel lines to someplace that can support the weight" That would be BAD so don't do that just GET THE GOLDEN EAGLE PIECE!!!!!!

So seriously back to the basics. Most likely your starting with a stock B18A1 or B18B block, the things you need to make this motor a real rocket are really simple. Lets start with pistons and choosing a good set of high compression pistons.

Go with something streetable that doesn't have to run on race gas...unless your just building a true race car then go for it and run 13:0:1 compression and up. Honestly theres several great OEM pistons you can run in your LS/VTEC for a good bargain. OEM pistons that are top choice for running all motor would be the Integra Type-R pistons and Civic Type-R pistons.
Approximate Compression Ratios
(when using 'R' Pistons in B-series engine(s)):
• Stock B16B CR=10:8
• B16B pistons in B16A CR=11:1ish
• B16B pistons in B17A CR=11.4ish
• B16B pistons in B18C w/GSR head CR=11.8 or more
• B16B pistons in B18C w/ITR or B16A head CR=11.6 or more
• P73 US pistons in B16A CR=10.4ish
• P73 US pistons in B17A CR=10.6ish
• P73 US pistons in B18C w/GSR head CR=10.8-9ish
• P73 US pistons in B18C w/ITR or B16A head CR=10.6
• P73 JDM pistons in B16A CR=10.6-7ish
• P73 JDM pistons in B17A CR=10.8ish
• P73 JDM pistons in B18C w/GSR head CR=11.3-4ish
• P73 JDM pistons in B18C w/ITR or B16A head CR=11.1

Those are all streetable compression ratios with potential for excellent power potential when combined with Integra Type-R cams or Civic Type-R cams.

It is very important to match compression ratios to the cams you plan on running either at present or in the future. However I personally would reccomend these pistons, either Weisco IB Spec 12:5:1 pistons, or some 12:0:1 pistons by JE. Running 12:5:1 compression is risky business, especially on anything below 93 octane, though it can and has been done...but it will take significant ammounts of tuning.

The next thing you'll be needing is a good set of rods, I would suggest either Crower, Eagle, or Manley rods they have all built a worthy name, though the Crower rods are a bit overkill for NA LS/VTEC's.

However there is a trick up the LS/VTEC's sleeves here to cut corners and budgets too, its called "Shot-Peening." Shot-Peening is a process where small metal ***** are used to bombard the piece of metal being treated. Example, your connecting rods, this makes the metallic structure stronger and less prone to fatigue. It would in other words make your LS rods stronger so you can rev it safely at higher rpms.

Now its very important to take care of the rotating assembly. When your building your motor be sure to have the crank balanced and magnafluxed. Replace all the bearings, the main bearings, rod bearings everything. Another good thing to have done is to lighten the crank, the less rotating mass the better because the motor will rev easier.

Now this is fixing one of those LS block problems we were talking about earlier...this isn't that necessary but it is a good idea to have Integra Type-R VTEC piston and rod oil squirters installed in the bottom end. Basically what that does is lubricate the pistons and rods to keep the bearings from starving of oil at high rpms which can lead to spun bearings, and just bad things. Now the cylinder walls of your engine, if you have the money and want to build a very serious competitor you may want to sleeve the block.

Sleeving the block with new high strength cylinder sleeves such as Darton or AEBS T-Sleeves is not required by any means for naturally aspirated cars...in fact alot of all motor cars are running on stock sleeves (I'm talking weekend warriors and street cars not pro drag cars )

. Your stock sleeves are not that weak, they are actually ductile iron in the B18A1. But their condition always goes back to the R/S ratio and if the motor was abused or pushed hard. If you want to be on the safe side but you're going to run stock cylinder sleeves, I would suggest a block guard such as STR. However...theres down sides to block gaurds...I really don't like them but if you want to run one you can. If you have ever seen an engine without a blockgaurd and an engine with a block gaurd you'll notice the extreem difference in the ammount of coolant that will be able to flow, also to really get the block gaurd into the block you really need to mash it into the block with a hammer which can distort the bore of the cylinders which isn't good either...block gaurd or not thats up to you.

Theres one more thing that you don't really need its another one of those security blanket type deals, its really nice to have a Z10 Engineering Block Girdle to keep the block nice and tight.

Now for the VTEC Cylinder head, and yes just like the R/S ratio you have to know what VTEC is to understand it. VTEC is an acronym for Variable valve Timing and lift Electronic Control (If your considering LS/VTEC or B20/VTEC you should already know what VTEC is and how it works). It is a mechanism for optimizing air/fuel mixture flow through the engine. If you wish to learn more about VTEC and how it works check out this link. I hope that this article has explained some things and what I have missed the following links should get
http://www.leecao.com/honda/vtec/index.html For VTEC information.
Here are more links that should help you better understand LS/VTEC
http://www.b20vtec.com
http://www.lsvtec.org
http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/lsvtec.html
http://www.importreview.com/reviews/lsvtec.html

Good luck on your projects and I hope this was helpful. FEEL FREE TO ADD TO THIS ARTICLE.
END

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Another article from http://www.team-integra.com by Michael Delaney

the key to this setup is WHO does it ....not the parts you should get which is what most novices focus on only, not realizing the impending headache they will face from an improper install.

you need to find a very good machine shop locally who is precise and has a good rep for doing things to spec dead-on (like blueprinting) with aluminum heads and blocks (not just iron domestic blocks). You have to
plug the VTEC oil passage in the VTEC head (usually welding the plug in is better than just using a bolt plug) and then machine the plug down flush with the cylinder head's deck surface. Secondly, since the LS block dowel pins and the VTEC head's dowel pin holes are not aligned, the machine shop must redo the dowel pin holes by slotting them to line things up properly.

The main problem with this setup is, if machining & installing are done improperly by an inexperienced or incompetent shop, you will end up with oil leaks and coolant leaks, since the ducts for oil and coolant in the
head and block are not aligned up...they were never meant to be put together at the factory in the first place and they have to "make" them fit with adjustments at the machine shop.

I always tell LS owners that you can get much more power reliably ,if you invest in a turbo and getting the correct anti-detonation parts , instead of running an LS VTEC.

To run faster than a GSR or ITR with i/h/e, you must upgrade the pistons for higher compression in the LS block. My friend Chistian Gaines runs an LS VTEC with 11:1 CR and makes over 185 peak whp with Type R cams. Chris used to visit us over at Superhonda and gave me good advice.

I suggest at least talking to people like drtracing.com or c-speedracing.com for their advice and experience , if you are thinking of doing this. They don't charge $8000-$10,000 for an LS VTEC build up.The oil/coolant leak thing and lower revs than a VTEC block are huge issues to remember for the LS VTEC reliability.

Another LSVTEC question on how good is it, is it "worth it" (whatever that's supposed to mean), what parts, what's the cost, should I turbo or SC it...

some call it a RS/VTEC, GS/VTEC, or SE/VTEC...

any VTEC Bseries head can go on an LS (B18A or B18B) block... You need the proper machining (increase intake side dowel diameter holes to 14mm) to align the dowel pins and machine taper the dowel pins down to the same height as the amount of deck height you removed (actually 20 thousandths in. more than what you milled off the head deck and block deck) so that the head can seat evenly on the block.

New headgasket, valve cover gaskets, and cam seals are a good idea.
You also need to plug the VTEC solenoid oil duct on the head (Golden Eagle has a simple kit for this now including a headgasket). People suggest using the GSR head bolts or GSR ARP head studs, the VTEC distributor (flange bolt pattern differs from LS distributor and sits lower), and GSR water pump/timing belt (LS head & pump has too much slack). It's up to you as to whether you want to tap the block to add a knock sensor like the VTEC motors using a 10.9mm bit tapped to 12mm x 1.25mm and sealed (remove all shavings). Hondabond is your friend.

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Another post by Michael Delaney

I've been watching this thread drag along for 3 days now with all the advice that you've gotten and surprisingly, there's not even one mention of the "LS/VTEC: BASICS OF BUILDING ONE" Common Topic here yet.

The LS/VTEC has been around since 1996 (there's a nice historical perspective of how Omniman, the same guy in the recent Import (de)Tuner Magazine <1999cc Bseries Shootout , came up with the idea and pioneered the process back then). Most of the info is old news and in that thread from the various links of how to beef up your block with that low r/s.


It's surprising to me that no-one, until now, has mentioned to you about a BLOCK GIRDLE (also another Common Topic as you can see). That's pretty basic now for people doing this.

Line honing the mains if your main caps are not sitting straight (eg. after sleeving, using main studs instead of main bolts, damaged mains, previous detonation or poor crank harmonics) has become another common practice to ensure a centered crankshaft and good consistent main bearing clearances.

I think I've hammered down the emphasis of hand measuring (with accurate bore gauges) the rod big end bore and the crank journal to determine your exact bearing clearances (instead of just plastigauging) and using rod bolt stretch measurements and not rod bolt torque down specs alone.

These are all pretty basic block assembly prep practices that any good shop would use anyway. It's the shortcutters that you want to avoid.

I think it's difficult to meet your restrictive budget if you want precision machining for shortblock preparation. However, it's pretty much common sense that a guy in Iowa or Arkansas or North Dakota will have lower rates for machining/assembly costs than in import-saturated California or Florida. So I think it's wiser to ask in your local forum for pricing or if you're shipping out of state, ask people in the shop you've researched to send it to.

You get what you pay for: precision Sunnen and Serdi machines do a more consistent job than anyone doing it by hand (which may appear to be cheaper on the surface but you pay for it in the long run since machines are better than us humans no matter the experience level on this one). You want the cylinder bores to be round and centered not oval and off center. You want a straight flat deck for the headgasket mating surfaces (especially on the leak proned LS/VTEC).

Secondly, with that limited budget, I don't think we'll be getting into anything fancy like an "LS Block With Oil Squirters" (Another Common Topic here). But you already know about oil pump upgrading.

So I guess, you'll have to sort out first how hard you want to push this block, both static CR and redline wise first, based on your 200 (wheel or crank ?) hp goal and then prioritize what "protective" block prepping services that you'll need for that level of stress. Be realistic.

I hope you also reviewed the various OEM piston swap (PR3, P30, P61) threads into a B18B here (here's a Common Topic on one) and played with an accurate static CR calculator that we like to often use here. You're going to have to get into some level of detail on the specs eventually if you are serious about this (piston to wall clearance, ring end gaps, preferred ring gap orientation, deck clearances including whether you want a fancy stepped deck with re-sleeving, piston to head clearance, bore sizes, crank end play, main and rod bearing clearances).

I hope you read our Engine Honing Common Topic and picked up on some of the debate about whether to hone or not so you can decide whether you can save on some cash on that when the pistons are pulled and you inspect the walls (if you're intending to go that route).

In terms of block prepping before you do your machine work (the machine shop may do this all for you in their services after hot tanking it), you may want to read this nice article by Mike Kojima who I respect immensely for his accuracy and technical helpfullness in the sport compact scene. You may want to look into metalax treating the block to restore some lost metal fatigue by stress relieving the block as well.

Various piston skirt and ring/ringland coatings that reduce heat and wear may also be included in your pricing negotiations with the people doing your machining.

http://www.swaintech.com/
http://www.hpcoatings.com/

Shotpeening is another consideration you'll want to mull over. Here's a couple of good quick, concise definitions that I have found on the web with a search:

wouldn't go too crazy on the crankshaft if you're on a tight budget except to balance it out and clean out the oil galley plugs. The luxury here is to consider coating it if you're running big CR's and therefore big crankcase pressures which generate some heat/wear problems.

I think we've worn out the welcome mat for the topic on r/s here. That's a little more detail than what you've been getting as replies and I hope this is used as a link for future B18 shortblock buidups as a database info source here since I ain't gonna retype this again...LOL

But PLEASE people...use the Common Topics...it's a damn good treasure chest of info if you just make the effort to use it.
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LS/VTEC Information By: Chris Prader July 2002

Ls/vtec is the mating of the B18A/B to a B-series Vtec head like the B18C1, B18C5, B17A or B16A head. The amazing part about this swap is that the Ls blocks did not come with Vtec so there are a few mods you need to know to do the swap right.
A. GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The Down Side. The B18a/b has a low r/s ratio 1.53 which is not bad compared to the 1.58 of a gsr. The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve relief’s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended.
2. Oil lines. The Ls block does not have a Vtec oil passage (you need this hole to produce the oil pressure to lock the vtec lobes rocker arm) so you will need to tap the hole on the head or weld it shut. When threading it shut use a 1/8ntp fitting. Its best to have a machine shop thread it for the 1/8th fitting and then just screw it in. Next you have to make an external line from the oil pressure sender to the head. Use a 4an to 3/8th ntp plug on the head to a steal braided line to tee'd of to the oil pressure sender hole. You will need a 1/8th tee fitting, a 1/8th to 3/4th's fitting for the line to the tee, a 1/8th to 1/8th adapter to plug the block, and plug the oil pressure sender in the back of the tee. So it will look like this (the T will be used as the tee fitting) 18th to 1/8th adapter T oil pressure sender sensor oil line to head. A suggestion is to have the tee fitting so it is not directly on the block (especially if you are installing an oil pressure gauge) as it can literally crack the threads and you will shoot oil everywhere. So try to run ss lines to someplace that can support the weight.
3. You will use the Ls head gasket.
4. Dowel pins: The head needs to be modified for the dowel pins to fit. You have to move and re-drill the dowel pins to be able to fit the head. On the intake side right below where you put the 1/8pipe fitting that plugs the vtec oil passage, you will drill and install one of the dowel pins and do the same on the other side at the exact same point.
5. Timing belt. You will use the Ls timing belt if you use the Ls water pump and the gsr if you use a vtec B17/16 or B18c1/5.
6. Head studs. You will use the vtec head studs for the ls/vtec set-up. I suggest ARP if you want to spend the money.
7. Oil Pump. The oil pumps on the ls's suck so you might want to upgrade to a vtec one or a b20 as they are same part number as the gsr.
8. Heads. There are many heads you can use and there are little differences between them.
First off there is the GSR head which give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then there is the b16/17a head which are the same the only difference is that the b17a has a p61 stamped on the back of the intake manifold the b16/17a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. Then there is the type r which flows even better than the b16a head and has the same combustion chamber. To put this in perspective the b18a/b has a 45cc combustion chamber.
9. GSR Block Girdle. You can use the GSR block girdle on the ls. This will reinforce the bottom end and keep the moving parts in its place. All you need to get is the 3 main caps in the middle, bolts, windage, oil pan and oil pick.
10. Pistons. You can use any b-series vtec piston in your ls block. Any 1.6 b-series piston will be raised by about one full point in the ls block like the b16a(pr3 pistons will raise it from the stock 10.2 comp in the b16a to 11.2ish in the ls block so keep this in mind when building the ls block. Also keep in mind about the combustion chamber size (See heads) when building the motor. . With a GSR, add .2 comp to the stock ratio. (Warning: these are all estimates: they could be off a little).
B16a head and pr3 pistons 11.2
B16a head and p30 pistons 11.4
B16a head and p72 (ao) pistons 9.9
B16a head and p72 (00) pistons 10.5
B16a head and p73 (ao) pistons 10.7
B16a head and p73 (00) pistons 11.2
B16a head and p61 pistons 10.4
B16a head and pct (CTR) pistons 12.2-3ish
B16a head and pr4 pistons 9.5
Add .2 to all to calculate the GSR head with all of these.
Type r and b17a heads have the same combustion chamber so calculates the same.
11. Conclusion. This information should help you get an idea of what it takes to build an LS/VTEC motor. As always, please, if you don’t know what you are doing, call a mechanic who can help you with anything. Team P Imports and the author of this article are not responsible for any damage you do to your car by reading this article.
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I hope this will help someone out. I apologize for it not being better organized, but it'll do. I didn't start make a lil database of info untill the last few days of my LS/Vtec quest, so theres alot of stuff I learned that's not here.
Basically, the thing that you absolutely CANNOT scrimp on is the machine work. If you take the time and money to build a decent bottom end, you can have a good measure of reliability.

Terrance

98IntegraLSNonVtec

nice write-up, eventhough you probably just cut and pasted most of it I might just have a shop build my LS-V, but this is still good info to know, atleast I'll know what extra parts I need to make it a reliable LS-V.

Thanks for the info.

Civicracer17

Nice Write up and thanks for the info... I plan on doing the LSVTEC on my 92 teg anyone know how long it would take if I had all the write stuff?

nickG

looks good..im gonna post this in every lsvtec thread that i come across

mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

I did cut and paste almost all of it so no credit goes to me. I just got it all in one place

Glad to hear it helped someone. Maybe an admin. will slap it in the FAQ?

TheLastSpartan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good..im gonna post this in every lsvtec thread that i come across</TD></TR></TABLE>

iheartDc2

hey buddy, i also had a questions on how long it would take for me to do this with a couple of buddy's if i jad all the right parts, or is it better to take it to a shop, the thing is that kills me is the labor cost, and you never know if the shop is legit.