fcfromhell420

ok, i try and start the car and it cranks over fine, but wont start, i check for spark and nothing, i have checked the coil and it checks out fine and have even swap out my distributer and nothing

out of couriosity i checked to see if my injectors were sraying and they wernt, i conected them to direct power and they spray fine

so what could cause them both from working, is there a ground that would coause this that i dont know about. this is my first honda and built it from a shell up its a 95 se

the ecu is throwing codes 6 and 10, and ihave change the ITS but still throws, would this cause it not to start?

thanks for help i am pretty desperate to get this thing finished real quick

fcfromhell420

bump

fcfromhell420

all these smart people on here and nobody knows

vshavoc

You said that it was built form a shell right? Did you do anything with the wiring harness like take it off to tuck or unplug things and plug them back in? You may have crossed a couple of plugs and burned the ecu up. I did a head swap on a gsr and crossed the IAT sensor and IACV sensor and it burnt up the ecu. Take the cover off the ecu on both sides and look for burn marks. Also what year engine did you put in it? If it's an OBD2B engine it has an immobilizer chip in the ecu and that will prevent it from starting. It will crank all day but not start.

T-Mo

My experience with the code 10 - Fuel injector:

I did all the steps in the helms and everything was fine and I got to the last troubleshooting spec and it was the wiring. At the computer, my wires were loose. I pushed them in and the code went away

Rbehne2

probably just a bad ground. check the wiring harness under the intake mani, make sure everything is fastened correctly.

Blahblah718293

check all your wiring, grounds, and fuses.

you may have a bad computer.

fcfromhell420

yes it was built from a shell, and i did have to change some wiring but it was just un plug and plug back in and i have also checked and the iat and iavc wiring is in the right place

acorrding to the CEL list on here 10 is IAT - intake air temperature sensor
but my injectors dont open so that fits

i checked the ecu and there isnt any burn marks in it

the engine came out of a 00 so it had obd2b, but i put obd1 wirng, obd1 injectors, obd2 to obd1 distributer jumper(also tried an obd1 dizzy) and a obd2a alternater wired to obd1 harness

checked the fues twice and all came out good, as for grounds the car didnt come with a engine harness so i dont know of any grounds in the loom but didnt see any, and i have a new grounds from trans to frame and valve cover to rad saupport

DA_9

It's gotta be electrical, and I believe u NEED a obd1 dizzy to run a obd1 car, again not sure. CHECK the wiring by the ECU, there may be a wire that is unplugged from the adapter, I had this happen to my speed sensor and it [freak]ed up my tune, It is hard to see but u gotta look at every wire. Go find a diagram to your ECU and find out which wires are for the fuel system, and the IAT, check them all for burn marks, turn the car to the on position check the wires for heat or warmth. If it gets hot its crossed.

vshavoc

And pull the IAT sensor out and see if it is melted or burnt. I think it might be something to do with all the obd2 to obd1 conversions you did. Good luck man. Electrical trouble shooting is a pain in the ***. I bet you if you got the right obd2b harness for it, it'll probably fire right up. You said you change the wiring to obd1 but aren't the sensors different for an obd2b and even an obd2a? Oh and are you using an obd2b ecu? If you are thats your problem for sure dude. The obd2b has an immobilizer chip in the ecu. The car will never start unless the right programmed key is used.

fcfromhell420

it has a obd1 ecu and all the sensors pluged in
any body know exacly how the immobilizer workes, i understand what it does
i know that there is a chip in the key and it sends a signel to the ecu, but dose it have anything to do with the ignition switch

the reason i ask is becouse my ignistion switch came out of the same car the engine did so its obd2b also

thanks for all the help so far guys, now let get this thing running

vshavoc

No if you're using a obd2a or obd1 ecu it doesn't have the immoblizer chip in it so it won't matter. The ecu is what prevents it from starting. It doesn't matter if the immobilizer module is still bolted to the ignition and plugged in and you're using a programmed key as long as the chip isn't in the ecu. Damn man It sounds like it should be working fine. I wish I could come help you trouble shoot it. I'm curious to find out what it is.

fcfromhell420

IT RAN, IT FEACKIN RAN, unfortanatly ran is past tense and ran for bout 30 seconds
well any way i towed my car up to kms today and frank spent like 4 hour hours going threw it and found out that somthing in the dash/ignition wiring is grounding out so if i have the engine to chassis grounds hooked up it shuts evey thing off, so today i started pulling wires and tomorrow hopefully i can get it all swap out and have this bish running