B_Swapped93

I've been using enduro 916+(205-50-15) tires for the past 2 seasons one summer on my stock dx civic and another on my integra with rather aggressive/long drives. they had about 80% tread when I go them used back mid last summer used them on my 100% dd civic then threw them on my integra when I got it last October the tires probably have 35,xxxKM's on them more or less. but the inside on all 4 is almost bald and on the out side there's still a ok amount of tread left ! I don't have ridicules camber or offset or have the car slammed maybe a 2'' drop all around. I have a rear camber kit on the car not to try and save the rears should I get one for the front also ? i'll need new tires next season for sure. will take pics of tires. I can try and find the tread wear specs and such but how long are tires supposed to last ?

kyden

alignment. you need one.

B_Swapped93

Sorry forgot got to add that an alignment was done the 2nd week after I got the car, as dumb as this question sounds every time I take the wheels off/swap them do I need to get a new one done ?.

TunerN00b

No.

jdmh22eg2

CAMBER DOES NOT WEAR TIRES. holly crap how many times does this have to be drilled in ppls heads. toe kills tires. i have ran 2.1* of camber in fromt of my hatch for 1.5 yrs with ZERO wear.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

OP has over 4200 post and these question he has asked in the two post ive read are just mind boggling. you needs an alignment try the dealership if you havent done so.

racebum

you usually run some toe which means more camber will accelerate wear

ideally with street tires you would run 1.0-1.5 deg neg camber and .02 toe out each side, the rear would be neg .50-.75 deg with .04 toe in each side

driving habits also are part of it. you will wear the inside edge regardless if you corner and brake hard

m4xwellmurd3r

Aggressive driving roasts the inner edge of tires really quick. Camber wont do it u less your running some retarded number where your footprint consists of the tires corner.

My cars worn out the inner edge of the tires, not a lot of camber in the rear and the alignment is good, but I ran them really hard. Actually, the fronts went bald and my rears are still half way decent. Fronts went bald not from spinning them, but from running up and down mountains a lot, with lots of heavy braking, etc.

Op, get a good alignment done, make sure your toe is in check.

B_Swapped93

pics coming. but yes theses tires do see lots for aggressive driving (corners mostly) the place that did the alignment is reputable but I may try else where once I get new tires.

first car and haven't even owned it a year yet ease up on me...

TunerN00b

Sounds like you need a few things.
1) Learn to drive. Seriously, take a course on advanced/performance driving.
2) "Aggressive" driving, to most people, is poor driving to those who know how to drive well. Smooth inputs, not overworking the front of the car, proper braking technique, etc...
3) If you intend to use the car in performance situations, then you need a performance oriented alignment. 0° toe all around.

racebum

**** this in the ground, car is less stable at 0 all around. the front toes out under braking and the rear needs toe in unless you're going for more rotation. also makes the car nervous in the rain

you can use zero in the front if you want but even a slight amount of toe out will increase turn in. like you can feel a difference between 0 and -.04 total toe out front. on the flip if you have a turbo car and do 140mph pulls you may actually like a slight toe in as it will help keep the car straight

toe in also is what keeps the back straight. when you're zipping along even at 80mph using 0 toe in the rear will have the car wondering around on you. going to even a minor toe in number like .06 total toe in helps, i use to run .10 total toe in out back. worked great and kept the car stable over 100mph

B_Swapped93

first pic is the driver side

2nd pic is the passenger side

the rears are the worst tho plus was running like negative 5 or more degress of camber in the rear.

jdmh22eg2

deff looks like toe scrub to me the way the rubber "rolls" to tread edge on up close shot


wtf are you doing "aggresive" driving on 5+* of camber??? some of have families driving around jack ***'s like you. that is ******* stupid

TunerN00b

Stable is for grocery getters. Less stable is more lively, which is another way of saying responsive. It's also why anyone who intends to drive in a sporting manner should learn how to do so first.

The rear toes in under braking, thanks to the design of the trailing arm bushings. If you're lowered, you're also at a point in the rear toe curve where it toes in under compression as well, helping to reign in the rotation. Hell, it's a nose heavy fwd car, it needs all the rotation it can get.

-2.2° / -1.8° f/r camber
0° toe on both ends
400/400 spring rates
Comptech rear ARB set at stiffest setting
and my GSR is perfectly stable at 130 mph (big track at Willow Springs).

If your car wanders at 80mph, then you have an issue you should look into, but it isn't the alignment. Or are you going to tell us that every single solid rear axle vehicle ever made is dangerous at freeway speeds?

But whatever, this is a discussion on tire wear, and no matter what else is done, 0° toe will produce the least amount of tire wear (even or uneven) of any toe setting. It's also a perfectly streetable alignment, depending on suspension configuration.

kulo

Zero toe all round

B_Swapped93

I lived in the country at the time, where the roads are dead at 2am in the morning and the only danger is a dear or something running out in front of me so i'm just risking my life. and most of the time it's just 200+KPH(140mph) runs down the big highways. Car is stable at those speeds as for wear the fronts are "OK" imo the rears I will try and get pics of but they're not pretty.The car also has seen some track days at Toronto motors sports park, I do know how to drive. Will ask some of my friends who are into this stuff also where they get their car alignments done.

racebum

that it does but rotation is easier to get and easier to control with more spring and more bar rather than trying to make the rear end drive itself when you come down a wave in the road and the rear toes out pulling you one way other the other. regardless of driving ability or anything else a predictable car is going to be faster than a wondering one. the only exception to this is autocross where everyone is driving slow and you want the car to come around fast. 0 toe in the rear makes a lot of sense for that one specific event

most of the honda challenge cars are setup with a 1/8-1/4" front toe out and 1/8-1/4" rear toe in which would be ridiculous for the street but effective if you're shaving tenths

m4xwellmurd3r

Lmao I like the argument that zero toe is best for stability and that if zero toe didnt cause a twitchy rear, then solid axle rear ends would wander as well.

Completely ignoring the fact that a solid axle is just that. Solid. It never changes toe.

And completely ignoring the fact that integras have a sort of multilink irs rear end.