GSRaCeRbOI

OK I just went through 3 pages of the brake archives.. and most of the posts were either on how to change them, or pad, rotor, brake upgrade recommendations.. so excuse me if this has been covered before and i couldnt find it..

anyway i just did a brake job on my friends car this weekend.. she couldnt wait for shipping and what not if we ordered online.. so I went to Autozone and got her Performance Friction pads... anyway i did the install no problem.. i put on the suppled shims and applied the anti squeal/disc quiet and i cleaned the rotor disc and every w/ brake cleaner before i worked on it.. and i applied high temp grease/brake lube to the caliper pin bolts..

anyway i did a series of stops to kinda break them in.. but she says on light pedal pressure braking.. like when your coasting to a stop.. they squeal/squeak a high pitched noise.. however stopping performance is fine.. and if u press moderately or hard.. they stop good and dont squeal.. any1 kno how i can get rid of the squeal when she is coasting to a stop?

NoSoup4U

I used to work at a brake shop, and we got a lot of customers complaining about squealing right after installation. The reason 9 times out of 10 for new brake pads squealing is: It usually takes about 300-500 miles of driving to break in the new pads, and during this break-in period the pads will squeak/squeal at times. If you have not already done so, wait until you have broken the pads in for 300-500 miles and see if they still squeak.

GSRaCeRbOI

thanks for your input bro... anyway since you worked at a break shop can you tell me how do you guys break in brake pads? i have heard so many diff things..

on my Hawk HPS pads.. it says to do sumthin like go 45.. then stop to 35.. for like 4-6 stops.. then go 35 and stop down to 30 or sumthing...

then other ppl have told me to just jam on them hard until they fade to break them in.. but then again.. i heard that causes glazing/brake fire

other ppl have said to take it easy for the first 300 miles and stop early cuz it will be like there is no power.. anyway for my brakes.. i jsut did what the Hawk card that came w/ the pads said.. since htats what the manufacturer said to do..

but how do you guys (professional mechanics) break in the pads? or do you guys just install it and leave it to the customer..

what is the PROPER way?

thank you in advance for your reply.. and any1 else feel free to add input/suggetions.. thanks..

NoSoup4U

...Not that I would claim to be a professional mechanic , but the best way to break in a new set of brake pads is to take it easy on them for the first 300-500 miles. Stop gradually so the pads get constant, even wear against the rotor. Avoid hard braking and slamming on the brakes if at all possible...this can heat up the rotors, and cause the pads and rotors to warp to a degree of annoying pulsating whenever you apply the brakes. Hope this helps!

EL Vap133

Did you resurface the rotors when you replaced the brakes?

GSRaCeRbOI

nosoup4u: hell u got hired to work at a mechanic place.. u got an up over me (weekend DIY'er).. thanks for your input..

VAP: yeah she had them turned cuz they were warped.. i tried to get her to buy brembo OE's but her dumbass brother said to turn them... i got my brembo blanks for not much more.. maybe even less than it would cost to have a shop turn them and labor..

bps2799

Several things:

Check the torque on the wheel lugs and be sure its 80 ft-lbs. This avoids pulsation problems from metal fatigue.

Machining rotors should only be done ON THE CAR. Even then, new rotors are far more preferable, since machining removes metal and increases the likelihood of future warpage.

Might help to replace the shims next time in case they've lost some strength. This could help the squealing.

You did grease both sides of each inner shim and same for the outer?

Did you use a black colored molybdenum disulfide grease (e.g., molykote 77) that Honda recommends,
or some sticky blue crap?

GSRaCeRbOI

yup i got a torque wrench.. all the lugs and caliper pin bolts, etc.. are torqued down correctly according to the manauls specs..

yeah i tried to get her to just buy Brembo Blanks like i did when i changed my discs and pads.. but her brother said to just change the pads n he was gonna get the rotors done.. so i was like whatever..

i replaced the shims.. they are brand new..

yeah a greased both sides of the shim..

k only thing of all the things you mentioned are possibly the rotors which her brother had done.. or the anti-squeal.. i used the blue stuff.. Permatex Anti Squeal to be specific..

bps2799

Well, if you feel like wrenching it again, then scrape the blue and get the black.

I had the same problem and had it explained to me that the blue bonds the shim and pad too tightly and they vibrate together, whereas the black moly acts more as an insulator to vibration and everything floats separately.

While you're doing it replace the rotors and explain to her her brother is an ignorant douchebag living 30 years in the past.

GSRaCeRbOI

aight ill see if she wants me to order the rotors and change them.. where do i get the black lube from the honda dealer? thanks

bps2799

Try a good parts store before going to Honda. Honda usually supplies it w/ pads, so I don't know about getting just the grease
there.

It is pretty common stuff.

Fooman

Years ago when I had a brake service done on my Camry (my old car) at Midas Brakes, I had the same problem. I had them replace the brake pads again because I wasn't satisfied. After they replaced them, they said that brake pads usually squeal, but disappear after a while. Well, it continued to squeal even after a few months. So I went back and this is what they told me, "you know, we use cheap brake pads...they will always squeal. What do you expect for free brake pads (warranty)?" Basically, they told me to "fawk off"

but now that i think about it, i feel very sorry for all the sorry ***** that have to work there.

vhd

another way to prevent the pads from squealing is to put a non-directional finish on the rotor after it has been turned/resurface, this will keep the pads from vibrating causing the squealing noise after the brake job


[Modified by vhd, 2:15 AM 2/6/2002]

bps2799

New rotors would obviate the need for this.

GSRaCeRbOI

hahah thats funny.. they straight up told you they use "cheap pads?" hahahah.. I usually just do my own brake job so i dunno about Midas.. lolz..

her *cough* corolla driving *cough* brother is telling her she doesnt need new rotors.. oh well i guess i dont care anymore as long as she stops complaining to me.. if she doesnt want to change the rotors then whatever.. not my car..

thanks for the reponses everyone..