Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
#51
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Thanks ^
Replaced the rear taillight bulbs today. One burnt out and the other was on its way out. Also decided to pick up the gsr strut bar. Meeting up on Tuesday to grab it. Ordered some rice apparel for the car as well. Some Spoon sports reservoir socks.
Replaced the rear taillight bulbs today. One burnt out and the other was on its way out. Also decided to pick up the gsr strut bar. Meeting up on Tuesday to grab it. Ordered some rice apparel for the car as well. Some Spoon sports reservoir socks.
#52
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Picked up the wheels today... was super excited until I got them home and saw the markings indicating they are 15 inch wheels. The sellers add said 16 inch and I never bothered checking (my bad) when I picked them up. Oh well, they should still look good once I get them mounted. I'm looking forward to ordering up some new decals for the wheels and getting these wheels painted white. Hopefully over the new few months there are some nice sunny/warm days I am able to work on them.
Just leaving this link here for reference.
https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...d-diy-1942094/
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...light-mod.html
Clock colour change
https://honda-tech.com/general-discu...-clock-338396/
Dash colour change
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/7-...b-answers.html
Just leaving this link here for reference.
https://honda-tech.com/acura-integra...d-diy-1942094/
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...light-mod.html
Clock colour change
https://honda-tech.com/general-discu...-clock-338396/
Dash colour change
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/7-...b-answers.html
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 06-02-2017 at 09:28 AM.
#54
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Ya i'm pretty happy about them. I wasn't really planning on buying wheels anytime soon but I was hunting for a 98 spec bumper and stumbled upon them so figured why not. Today I cleaned all the gunk off of them. Holographic stickers are still on the barrels (they were covered with brake dust) and I removed the worn out scratched up p1 racing decals and all the sticky wheel weights. Now they will probably sit in storage for a few months.
This is a good example of what I have in mind for my car.
This is a good example of what I have in mind for my car.
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 05-08-2016 at 07:18 PM.
#57
Honda-Tech Member
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Do you have a pic "then/now" of that one real bad area on the back(IIRC) i'll be really impressed if you got that out. looks good tho man.
#58
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
I do not and it's basically the same. I haven't wet sanded the car yet. That before and after picture is just what an exterior clean, decontamination with clay bar and some polish work made the paint look like. It's a little to cold to be sitting outside with my hands in a bucket of water (3-6 degree Celsius) but i'm hoping in a couple months when it is warmer I can test it out.
#60
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
I've been putting off some work for the Out of Province Inspection I should get done pretty soon. I'm going to ask a friend to go to the local junkyards back home (10 tegs per yard, 2 yards, at any given time) since Vancouver doesn't seem to really have any you can roam around and pick parts from. It's a small list but it must be done.
The horns on the car sound like a dying whale. It really is the saddest sound ever when i've attempted to use them. I'm going to head over to Princess Auto tonight and pick up some low tone aftermarket horns and wire them up. Trailing bushings are shot so i'll dig up the part number and order 2 of those. My hatch actuator is blown as well. I read a few articles on how to fix the broken plastic clutch but it isn't even clicking when I press the button so it sounds like the motor is completely dead. Last but not least, my driver side door (manual lock system) is damaged. I suspect a bent rod or something. It won't lock at all. The door itself opens and closes and latches but if I want to lock the car it won't. There is a crazy amount of resistance preventing me from being able to lock it. I use to be able to pull the door handle as if I were opening it, then press the lock tab and it would lock it once I closed the door but now that won't even work. Suggestions on what it could be are welcome. I'm going to have to pull the panel off soon to inspect. Finally the last thing I want to do is the header gaskets. I can smell (and i'm starting to hear) a very small leak that I suspect is from the downpipe area. I don't see any black marks around the 4 primary runners so this leads me to believe it's off the merge.
List of **** to fix
FIXED -Horns
FIXED -Drivers door lock
FIXED -Fix hatch button
FIXED -Fix glass rattle
FIXED -Fix small rip in drivers door weather strip
FIXED -Hatch actuator
FIXED -Trailing arm bushings
FIXED -Header gaskets
May as well install the strut bar and the new front environment shield at the same time. Also, I found a local seller who has a 98 spec bumper! I'm going to go pick it up later tonight.
Slowly, but surely this car is looking less and less like a beater by the day
The horns on the car sound like a dying whale. It really is the saddest sound ever when i've attempted to use them. I'm going to head over to Princess Auto tonight and pick up some low tone aftermarket horns and wire them up. Trailing bushings are shot so i'll dig up the part number and order 2 of those. My hatch actuator is blown as well. I read a few articles on how to fix the broken plastic clutch but it isn't even clicking when I press the button so it sounds like the motor is completely dead. Last but not least, my driver side door (manual lock system) is damaged. I suspect a bent rod or something. It won't lock at all. The door itself opens and closes and latches but if I want to lock the car it won't. There is a crazy amount of resistance preventing me from being able to lock it. I use to be able to pull the door handle as if I were opening it, then press the lock tab and it would lock it once I closed the door but now that won't even work. Suggestions on what it could be are welcome. I'm going to have to pull the panel off soon to inspect. Finally the last thing I want to do is the header gaskets. I can smell (and i'm starting to hear) a very small leak that I suspect is from the downpipe area. I don't see any black marks around the 4 primary runners so this leads me to believe it's off the merge.
List of **** to fix
FIXED -Horns
FIXED -Drivers door lock
FIXED -Fix hatch button
FIXED -Fix glass rattle
FIXED -Fix small rip in drivers door weather strip
FIXED -Hatch actuator
FIXED -Trailing arm bushings
FIXED -Header gaskets
May as well install the strut bar and the new front environment shield at the same time. Also, I found a local seller who has a 98 spec bumper! I'm going to go pick it up later tonight.
Slowly, but surely this car is looking less and less like a beater by the day
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 08-13-2016 at 09:01 PM.
#62
re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
So it's been another few weeks of constant rain and my trunk has a little water in it. Minimal amounts, but water no the less. I pulled the trunk liners again and found the 2nd source of water. Turns out it is the antenna seal but also the antenna tube. The previous owner broke the antenna tube and seeing as it is hallow under extreme rain it is allowing a small amount to get into the trunk. The seal failing is also allowing a little bit. Naturally I searched if there is a delete plug. ICB has them for $10 but doesn't appear to have a shipping option for Canada. I looked on ebay and sellers are gouging people for $40 a plug after shipping LOL. So with a bit more digging for the part number it turns out TSX models share the same plug and Acura sells them for $3-4 dollars. I'll be calling Burrard Acura tomorrow and getting one ordered up.
just using a photo I found
The part number for those who also need or want it
I installed the new lock actuator that I picked up a few days ago. Good news! The old one was confirmed dead and the new one works. Bad news! The door switch doesn't work to lock it lol. I can hear the motor on this one unlike the old one. However the motor doesn't fire at all when I try to lock or unlock the hatch from the driver door. I can only hear it fire when I put the key in the hatch and turn it. Ideas?
Polished up my 98 spec signal lights tonight too.
While I was waiting in a parking lot I looked down randomly to see my cluster roll over to 230,000 km. Decided to take a picture of it.
leaving this here for my future reference/reminder
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...ges/paint.html
just using a photo I found
The part number for those who also need or want it
I installed the new lock actuator that I picked up a few days ago. Good news! The old one was confirmed dead and the new one works. Bad news! The door switch doesn't work to lock it lol. I can hear the motor on this one unlike the old one. However the motor doesn't fire at all when I try to lock or unlock the hatch from the driver door. I can only hear it fire when I put the key in the hatch and turn it. Ideas?
Polished up my 98 spec signal lights tonight too.
While I was waiting in a parking lot I looked down randomly to see my cluster roll over to 230,000 km. Decided to take a picture of it.
leaving this here for my future reference/reminder
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...ges/paint.html
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 01-28-2016 at 08:45 PM.
#63
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Picked up the plug the other day and decided today was a good day to take care this issue seeing how the skies are clear and it's been raining the last few days. This is what I was talking about when I said the antenna was letting water in. The drain tube looked like it may have a small crack in it, as well the actual upper and lower seals on the antenna system. Seeing as I just listen to Spotify and never the radio I have no problem just deleting it completely.
The culprit
You can see water was draining a little on the trunk area but also condensation in the quarter panel was forming causing it to seep out different ventilation bits. I had already dried up most of the water at this point. I know it doesn't look like much of an issue but the quarter panel near the antenna top seal was soaked. With all the water constantly seeping into the car it felt a little damp (not as bad as when the tail light gaskets were shot) which was enough to still create just a tiny bit of a smell and enough moisture to cause fog in the car.
Unhooked and almost out. I cut the antenna cord. In summer when I have more time i'll remove the left overs from under the carpet.
Plug installed
Interior back in
In other news, i've grown tired of hearing road noise. I've been missing my bmw's (owned a few newer ones over the last few years) and how quiet they were. Since I just moved and am saving for a house for the next few years buying a new car isn't something I should do. So i've looked into a way to reduce the road noise produced by this car. Luxury Liner seems to be the best option. http://store.secondskinaudio.com/overkill/ using the liner and overkill closed cell foam I should be able to reduce the road noise drastically. I'm thinking of lining the doors, the floor boards, a little bit on the firewall (on top of the factory), under the removable cargo shelf, behind the rear seat carpet along their backs, along the rear quarter panel wheel wells, in the trunk area, and the underside of the cardboard trunk mat/support. It will all be well hidden and i'm hoping make it very enjoyable to be driving in the car.
The culprit
You can see water was draining a little on the trunk area but also condensation in the quarter panel was forming causing it to seep out different ventilation bits. I had already dried up most of the water at this point. I know it doesn't look like much of an issue but the quarter panel near the antenna top seal was soaked. With all the water constantly seeping into the car it felt a little damp (not as bad as when the tail light gaskets were shot) which was enough to still create just a tiny bit of a smell and enough moisture to cause fog in the car.
Unhooked and almost out. I cut the antenna cord. In summer when I have more time i'll remove the left overs from under the carpet.
Plug installed
Interior back in
In other news, i've grown tired of hearing road noise. I've been missing my bmw's (owned a few newer ones over the last few years) and how quiet they were. Since I just moved and am saving for a house for the next few years buying a new car isn't something I should do. So i've looked into a way to reduce the road noise produced by this car. Luxury Liner seems to be the best option. http://store.secondskinaudio.com/overkill/ using the liner and overkill closed cell foam I should be able to reduce the road noise drastically. I'm thinking of lining the doors, the floor boards, a little bit on the firewall (on top of the factory), under the removable cargo shelf, behind the rear seat carpet along their backs, along the rear quarter panel wheel wells, in the trunk area, and the underside of the cardboard trunk mat/support. It will all be well hidden and i'm hoping make it very enjoyable to be driving in the car.
#64
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (5)
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
If you are planning to do the deadening, https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products is the place to buy from. I have used Second Skin and SDS and youre going to pay less for a product that will work just as good for your purpose. Get the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) as this is what will block most of the noise. CCF (closed cell foam) products will provide a layer between parts to prevent buzzing too.
#67
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Did a little work on the car today. Decided to break up the colours of the engine bay today by painting my GSR strut bar and adding some Spoon socks. My new p.1 stickers showed up for the rims. I really wanted to replace the crusty hardware along with the painted hardware with fresh stuff I picked off another car. However, I couldn't find it for some reason. I seem to have misplaced it all. Some progress shots. Sorry for the blurry photos, flash sucks and it was getting dark.
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 02-24-2016 at 06:54 PM.
#69
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ Thanks, I think it turned out pretty decent.
I ordered up some rain visors today along with some bright white license plate bulbs since mine are super dim and all the blue led bulbs required to do my cluster, climate control and my dash clock. Going to order the exhaust manifold gasket and the down pipe gaskets on Monday.
Also leaving this part number here for reference for when I start cleaning up the exterior even more.
76925-52020-C0 (valance rubber strips)
I ordered up some rain visors today along with some bright white license plate bulbs since mine are super dim and all the blue led bulbs required to do my cluster, climate control and my dash clock. Going to order the exhaust manifold gasket and the down pipe gaskets on Monday.
Also leaving this part number here for reference for when I start cleaning up the exterior even more.
76925-52020-C0 (valance rubber strips)
#70
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
So over the last month my door lock stopped working. I decided to pop off the panel and discovered there are still hack jobs waiting to be discovered on this car. It appears the previous owner tried to install an aftermarket actuator for the door locks. The wiring harness he made is cut at the end and I assume all the resistance I felt for the first few months of owning the car was caused by forcing an actuator to close manually. I'm pretty sure me doing this caused it to seize which explains when it won't lock at all now. I managed to source an RS door today. I'm suppose to drive and meet up with the guy this afternoon. My plan is to grab the OEM rod required for my manual lock then delete the extra wiring harness, the aftermarket actuator, and 2 of the aftermarket rods installed currently.
I also discovered why my window was rattling. The weather strip on the guide fell into the panel which also clogged up the rain drains. I pulled it out, washed it, cleaned the lower panel and cleared the drains today. I read up on the window rattle and see it is common. I found this good write up and will leave it here for reference.
Fix Window Rattle for G3 Coupe - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Here are the pictures of what i'm dealing with. Also, does anyone know what can clean off all that sound proofing glue? It is smeared everywhere. I'm thinking brake cleaner or something along the lines but if there is something better please let me know, i'm open to suggestions.
What it should look like
Final question for anyone reading this. I replaced my hatch actuator since it wasn't firing as I mentioned earlier in my thread. I hear it firing but it doesn't actually work from the drivers switch. Could this have something to do with it?
I also discovered why my window was rattling. The weather strip on the guide fell into the panel which also clogged up the rain drains. I pulled it out, washed it, cleaned the lower panel and cleared the drains today. I read up on the window rattle and see it is common. I found this good write up and will leave it here for reference.
Fix Window Rattle for G3 Coupe - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Here are the pictures of what i'm dealing with. Also, does anyone know what can clean off all that sound proofing glue? It is smeared everywhere. I'm thinking brake cleaner or something along the lines but if there is something better please let me know, i'm open to suggestions.
What it should look like
Final question for anyone reading this. I replaced my hatch actuator since it wasn't firing as I mentioned earlier in my thread. I hear it firing but it doesn't actually work from the drivers switch. Could this have something to do with it?
#72
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
^ Figured it out. It is the power lock control unit (which is weird since it doesn't have power windows yet has the box with the stamped letters on it saying power window control unit). Turns out mine failed. Bought some parts from someone today parting an integra out who still had the motor in the car with power to everything. It was a 2000 RS model with the hatch button as well. When I pressed the button I could hear the control unit fire. This is definitely my issue. I will report back once it is installed but i'm 99.9% sure this is the cause.
I picked up another decent haul today in parts. The 2000 RS being parted out also turned out to be the same red as mine. The rear bumper was immaculate. No damage what so ever which is awesome since mine has spider webbing, paint pen work, a crack causing sag, and some minor scratches still from the side swipe from the previous owner that I buffed out. I also ran the car for a while and tested the a/c pump! I found myself a good working pump that blasts cold. I pulled the drivers power window control unit, the window motor (mines dying slowly), the door actuator and rods, a fresh drivers door weather strip, along with about 50-60 clips and other misc brackets. Today was a big step towards fixing the remaining headaches this car has and closer to like new condition.
I picked up another decent haul today in parts. The 2000 RS being parted out also turned out to be the same red as mine. The rear bumper was immaculate. No damage what so ever which is awesome since mine has spider webbing, paint pen work, a crack causing sag, and some minor scratches still from the side swipe from the previous owner that I buffed out. I also ran the car for a while and tested the a/c pump! I found myself a good working pump that blasts cold. I pulled the drivers power window control unit, the window motor (mines dying slowly), the door actuator and rods, a fresh drivers door weather strip, along with about 50-60 clips and other misc brackets. Today was a big step towards fixing the remaining headaches this car has and closer to like new condition.
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 03-01-2016 at 10:02 AM.
#73
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
Try Naptha from a hardware store for the glue. Acetone might work, but could hurt the finish. Naptha might also hurt the finish, but it' what I use to remove stickers, chrome plates, etc.
#75
Re: Beater to Bearable RS Teg Restoration
UPDATE!
Got some work done today.
There are many more reasons why I wanted to replace the rear bumper a 2nd time but these were the main two. There are probably a solid 8 damage spots on the bumper but these were the biggest ones. The new one is near flawless. Just a small paint chip under the license plate on one of the brackets that can't be seen :p
I had these LED bulbs sitting in my tool box for close to a decade. I randomly remembered they were rotting away and decided this was as good a time as any to finally put them to use. Now my license plate has a nice white glow to it at night
While the valances were off I decided to check if they were legit Honda or some replica kit. Turned out to be the OEM optional type S kit
Finished, but I was in a bit of a rush so I am going to realign it at a later date. I'm also going to order up those Toyota Matrix rubber strips for the rear valances or possibly find an alternative.
Bumpers off!
My old horn crapped out on me a few weeks back. I was originally going to put an aftermarket horn on the car but since the part out had a working OEM one I just grabbed that and installed it. Much simpler.
98-01 parts pile, fresh a/c lines, mint enviro shield and a whole lot of hardware and clips.
The reason the a/c didn't charge LOL. Turns out there was a huge hole that couldn't be seen easily. New lines replaced this sucker. Once I can source some A/C oil for the pump i'll go pick up another can of freon and install the new pump and belt. I can't wait to have a/c again. This is the longest i've been without it in years.
Finally it looks like a 2000 Integra again. No chips or massive damage. There is however a small hair line split in the paint on the passengers side but it is quiet small. Decided it was worth living with the split than doing body work on the black bumper. I put it up for sale instead. I'll hopefully have a Type R front lip installed sooner than later but it will probably be a little while before that day comes.
I'm planning on hopefully installing the power lock control unit, fixing the door lock rods, cleaning up the glue mess, installing some LED lights I got in the mail the other day, fixing the driver and passenger window track seal (get rid of even the small rattle that's there) and possibly test wet sanding a fender and door. More to come soon!
Last edited by Prudz_lude; 03-04-2016 at 09:38 PM.