92bb2

While some people think it complex to remove a head, it's not a hinderence for me for my intensions.
I'm looking to swap to a thinner head gasket for increased compression ratio; a few questions ensue.
I found a site that suggests that a Mugen gasket will increase compression by +.3, same site says a Spoon gasket (.02mm thinner) will deffinately increase compression by +.3. Weird, but simple enough.
The next site says Mugen gasket WILL increase compression by +.4?!
Any light you can shine on the subject or recomendations you can make will be appreciated!!

Sir-g Turbo

how much compression are u looking to gain?

92bb2

As much as can be expected from a simple gasket swap. +.4 sounds about as much.

I've heard that for every +.2 you can expect 1hp increase, this true. I know it sounds like a lot of work & money for such a small gain, but I want to do it anyway.

Sir-g Turbo

well if ur willing to do all that work then go for it! ur time and money lol. well if ur looking to get as much as possible, get the thinnest one u can possibly find. aight?

92bb2

Is my estimation on power gains about right? & (!NOOB question!!) what' the compression of my b18c1, 10.0? THANX

xteg95

You want to change your headgasket to gain HP? .... or am I missing something?

Sir-g Turbo

yea i think thats wut hes sayin, do u have a usdm or jdm? gsr or Sir-G?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94db8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As much as can be expected from a simple gasket swap. +.4 sounds about as much.

I've heard that for every +.2 you can expect 1hp increase, this true. I know it sounds like a lot of work & money for such a small gain, but I want to do it anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you decrease the thickness of a headgasket, you up the compression of your motor. Depending on your initial HP, conpression, and condition of engine internals, who knows what HP gains you'll yield. There are too many factors to look at when thinking about HP Gains from headgasket swaps.

So i'm going to say : No, the HP Gain theory you previously stated is wrong.

If your headgasket is not leaking, its not worth changing. Why fix something thats not broken? Spend your time and money on areas like cams, valvetrain, and air flow. Then when you work your way to the block internals, you can think about the headgasket you want to run. Unless your car is running like **** due to headgasket leaks and loss of compression, you wont feel the difference in changing it.

95gsr@530

going with a thinner head gasket/decking the head will also make your cam gears closer to your crank gear, therefore retarding you valve timing. I am in the middle of a head gasket job on a 1995 b18c1 and I had the machine shop take .015" off my head, and they warned me that this may have an effect on my valve time. So it's something to think about. If your head gasket is sealed up tight and right I would focus else-where for hp gains. I have the adjustable timing gears, along with a gates timing belt that i'm waiting to install until I can get the car to run smoothly again. I still am without vacuum, and I'm getting coolant into the intake via the IACV. My compression is 150 psi across the board cold so I feel like the felpro is going to seal it up just fine but I clearly have too much deflection in my timing belt, and I'll let you know if I notice a difference in performance due to the potential retardation cam timing.

Does anyone know where I can look to find suggestions on how to properly adjust my timing gears for a head resurfacing/thinner head gasket? I'd imagine just advance the cams until they feel right, but I've head over lap can provide gains in certain ranges. A good thread describing that would be helpfuil
'

B_Swapped93

Stop ******* bumping old *** threads 150 psi is complete crap and borderline service limit aka it's a seriously down on compression. Lol .015 is nothing I hope you didn't go buying cam gears for that reason alone, you don't do **** for that small an amount moving the distributor all the way forward would have more affect.

95gsr@530

what's up with the hate dude? I did that compression test cold just to make sure I didn't **** something up in that part of the installation. I didn't get the cam gears just because of the deck I got them for dirt cheap by chance for the day that I actually need them, like when I get some real cams, and am ready to get a tune.

If you don't have any advice or tips why are you spending your time hating on other people's comments? is your life so idle and meaningless that you cruise forums looking for comments containing questionable information so you can rip on the people leaving them?

Instead of phrasing all that hateful **** the way you did why not just say, "150 psi is kinda low, .015" doesn't call for cam timing, advancing the ignition may be more helpful" ? Less time consuming, less insulting, and maintains a helpful vibe to the site.

B_Swapped93

These old threads are getting bumped out of nowhere lately and you happened to do it too, nah kiddo I'm not in my 20's still driving an old Honda. The high post count comes from my build thread(s) on here as a teenager, original comment budd. 150 is just sad for a VTEC b series that "ohh it was cold" won't make a difference like a WET to dry test would, you or the last guy must have beat the **** out of that engine.

95gsr@530

the car had clearly been beat when I bought it, but I did pay next to nothing for it, so I figured it a good project. So if you're not a 20 year old, and you're some sort of master tech or something, why not lend a hand to us twenty year olds out here still busting knuckles figuring **** out the hard way? I'm a student in an automotive program in Chico CA which is known statewide as one of the best. This doesn't mean that I know everything about every car and the proper procedure for all repair. Although, I do have access to such information easily enough. But as we all know Mitchell1 and AllData are semi helpful at best.

Reason why I bumped the thread is because I am currently in a similar situation so I'm cruising related threads. Sorry if my commenting on one from so long ago offended you, I just want to be part of a discussion and hopefully gain some insight from those more experienced than myself.

B_Swapped93

You took it personally I would post the same remark at anyone, i'm aware of the uselessness of Mitchel/alldata try the FSM you'll have better luck. As for you issue did you even do a WET test? do one and compare the numbers did they jump? **** rings if so. put it all back together and see don't worry about .015 that's not going to do anything in reality especially with a normal rise piston like the p72, you'd have to do more before it would be a concern.

95gsr@530

Thanks I appreciate the advice. I wish I had access to air I would just do a leak down and figure out where the compression is going. I gotta re adjust the valves before I do another compression test anyways. What i'm currently held up on is the damn IACV. The gasket separating coolant and bypassed air is shot to **** and i'm consuming coolant pretty badly. I'm going to try a by pass of the coolant line for now and go on about the rebuild until I can get a new IACV because the list of needs for this car goes on and on as you could imagine. I will try the wet test, in spite of the potential damage to my 02 (brand new, but probably already contaminated) and take those readings into consideration. I mean ****, I just rebuilt the entire top end, might as well do the bottom end too if my rings are gone while the knuckle skin is non existent.
Thank you for the advice, i'm sorry for taking it personally, I just want to be a part of these discussions, especially when i'm working through similar situations my self, a greenhorn in the Honda game. But I do love these cars with a passion.

B_Swapped93

You're over thinking it put it together for now with the new head-gasket drain the coolant(for now) you can do the lash if you like but the amount it "may" be off isn't going to throw the reading. Take the o2 out or just spay it with brake clean they're tougher than you think, it's highly oxygenated fuels like c16/q16 are what do them in fast or just running insanely rich.

95gsr@530

the reason why I feel so strongly about the valve lash adjustment is because when the head was off I not only did the valve stem seals but also a valve grind and valve seats. Rebuilding this head is a feat of it's own. To think of the technology that was being used by Honda twenty years ago... wow. Anyways the head is all lube'd back together with the rocker arm's back in the right place, along with the valves and rocker arm shafts. Oh yeah, and those little LMA's, lubed and installed. Felpro went on sequenced torque properly and in three stages (22,44,66ft lb.s) I know this is a little above manufacturer's spec I found on the integra forum that people had luck with this method. Very soon here I will be adjusting the valve lash, as I did back them off anyways at the beginning, and setting up for a cold cranking compression test, hopefully not needing to go to the wet test based on the results. Thanks for your time once again