B18A1 NA Build
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B18A1 NA Build
What's goin on people? I have my first Integra, had a few hondas in the past mainly accords and built those pretty well. The B18 seems similar but new to me. I already swapped in a new head because I had a blown valve, clearly the previous owner ran Nitrous. The piston rings are getting a lot of blow-by and I'm burning more oil than I should so I have a head and currently looking for a block. I'd like to build it from the bottom up, but I'm not looking to boost it as it is my daily driver. Any good ideas for good parts thing that match and don't, on a budget. I don't have 10k to drop into it. Thanks.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
Well if your basically engineless then you should look into just buying a b18c1(gsr engine). There from 800-1500 depending on area mileage and if it comes with a tranny. If not you look on Craigslist for a new b18a1. I don't know how much these go for because there a little harder to come across. But if none of this is appealing to you and you want to just build the motor you have, then look into high compression pistons. Generally n/a builds are high and fi builds are low (compression). Maybe get your block bored and some cams that won't over cam the pistons you have. Also get new springs retainers and valves when you upgrade your cams.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
i live in a huge city with a honda scene being the biggest thing here..we had an over 300 car honda cruise recently..people just over price all the **** here bc its in such demand
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
I was thinking about it, looked over for pistons and new connecting rods, SRP with Eagle, plus rod bearings, cams, cam gears, valves, springs, intake manifold, that alone is gonna cost me about 1700. I've already ported and polished my head, that was a freebe. With no v-tech I think I would be putting down some serious power. I wouldn't come close with a GSR swap, would I? Also, if I can open up my stock intake manifold, would I still be getting the same results as the performance ones on the market?
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
You will have a little more torque than a GSR would, but even with a built LS head it will not rev as high as the GSR. And even with all that put into, you will be lucky to hit 230hp NA, so you may consider that serious power, but I vote LSVTEC or Boosted LS.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
I see what you're saying, boosting might be a better way to go. But then I would need to get a whole buncha components to run it, turbo, turbo manifold, injectors, etc. I'm trying to keep it a daily driver with a kick to back it up with. Found a B18C1 with no trainy and 94k for 1700, doesn't seem worth it, considering I can just rebult the engine with performance parts. Or worst comes to worst just rebuilt it to stock specs and keep my bolt ons. Another thing I was wondering, I baught a high end APC front strut bar and it won't fit due to my ABS pump. Are there strut bars to fit? Or do I need to remove the pump?
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
Basicly my engine life is coming to an end and I want a new one for the best buck, but won't buy a junk yard motor cuz I'm planing to keep the car for some time.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
When I read the title, I immediately thought: waste of time.
The LS motor is better off left alone or boosted to make decent power. You will be lucky to see anything over 200whp NA and that's after spending gobs of money to get there.
It's not worth it. Best thing you can do is to start off with a better platform, such as a GSR or something along those lines. Depending, of course, on what your budget allows.
The LS motor is better off left alone or boosted to make decent power. You will be lucky to see anything over 200whp NA and that's after spending gobs of money to get there.
It's not worth it. Best thing you can do is to start off with a better platform, such as a GSR or something along those lines. Depending, of course, on what your budget allows.
#14
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
Scour craigslist, lol
Thats why my turbo project is so cheap atm lol
You can find engines online but you can get lucky on CL depending how dedicated you are
Thats why my turbo project is so cheap atm lol
You can find engines online but you can get lucky on CL depending how dedicated you are
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
When I read the title, I immediately thought: waste of time.
The LS motor is better off left alone or boosted to make decent power. You will be lucky to see anything over 200whp NA and that's after spending gobs of money to get there.
It's not worth it. Best thing you can do is to start off with a better platform, such as a GSR or something along those lines. Depending, of course, on what your budget allows.
The LS motor is better off left alone or boosted to make decent power. You will be lucky to see anything over 200whp NA and that's after spending gobs of money to get there.
It's not worth it. Best thing you can do is to start off with a better platform, such as a GSR or something along those lines. Depending, of course, on what your budget allows.
With just the gsr motor stock, it'll be pretty quick. A Big step-up from your b18a1.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
Good point, but the gsr b18c motor won't work with the trainy I got, will it? I hate the way it feels like it neds a 6th gear anyway, but if I can avoid it i'd like too.
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Re: B18A1 NA Build
It will work with your tranny, they are both YS1 tranny's, they GSR just has shorter gearing. I recommend upgrading to a GSR tranny later on. You will get the most out of the VTEC motor with a VTEC trans.
#19
Re: B18A1 NA Build
for the price of that b18c1, you could get a b20z AND a decent shorter geared tranny, like a jdm y1 or something along those lines.
honestly, i had a b18c1 in one of my old da's w/ls tranny and i was not impressed whatsoever. the tranny makes all the difference.
with a b20z, you won't need to change the pcm, buy a jumper harness, or wire in vtec.
drop it in as stock and go. that right there alone is a great savings.
plus, a b20z is going to be much cheaper and this way you can throw the tranny and engine in one hit instead of one by one.
you want a little kick, best bang for your buck, there it is. simple. cheap. reliable
just make sure you get the b20z and not b20b1/4.
if you get the b20b, check that there is a knock sensor on the back of the block. this confirms that it is a high compression motor from japan, outfitted with the phk pistons.
honestly, i had a b18c1 in one of my old da's w/ls tranny and i was not impressed whatsoever. the tranny makes all the difference.
with a b20z, you won't need to change the pcm, buy a jumper harness, or wire in vtec.
drop it in as stock and go. that right there alone is a great savings.
plus, a b20z is going to be much cheaper and this way you can throw the tranny and engine in one hit instead of one by one.
you want a little kick, best bang for your buck, there it is. simple. cheap. reliable
just make sure you get the b20z and not b20b1/4.
if you get the b20b, check that there is a knock sensor on the back of the block. this confirms that it is a high compression motor from japan, outfitted with the phk pistons.
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