carfanat1c

Ok... First off I have read and read and read on all the threads about heating problems, so please READ ALL and try to help me... please.

I have a 94 GSR that I am about to blow my face off because of all the heating/cooling problems I have had with this car. Other than that I couldn't ask for more out of this car it runs GREAT.

I bought the car about 2 yrs ago the heat would drive you out of it, it was HOT. That summer I started having problems with the car warming up, noticed small holes in my heater lines. I replaced the hoses that were worn out, still was overheating... took the radiator outta the car had it tested flowed about 2 gpm sooo I replaced the radiator, and thermostat (because it was never replaced 178,000mi)
and that fixed the problem, obviously it was a radiator.

NOW my heat will not get hot, the line going into the heater core is HOT, the line coming out is warm, I unhooked both lines and squeezed them both ways and seen the fluid rise and fall in the hoses when I squeezed both ways... Could my heater core may be partially clogged? It just seems like it should be at least lukewarm???

I'm not overheating but its like 10 degrees in ohio so I don't expect it to.

It seemed like it was taking the thermostat forever to open so I took it out last night and tested it also, it's fine. Now my speedos not working and my check engine light is coming on intermittently, I think thats just because I was fondleing the wire harness on top of the tranny... I'm really not worried about that right now, I need heat.

The ONLY thing that I can think of is one of the hoses that I replaced I kinda cheesed on, I couldn't wait for acura to order one so I just put a generic hose in there and had to loop it because it was such a strong bend. So basically I added about 8 more inches of hose to the system.

Water pump weak not flowing? It pushed water outta the radiator with cap off when I rev the engine.


Sorry for the long post but I'm just about to break down and take it to honda... as sorry as it is. And I am not a dipshit, I have torn whole cars down and rebuilt them but this is testing my patients and I am COLD!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,

Ken

j_bizach

sounds like you need your heater core flushed. The last time i had mine flushed it was rite around $75. Your heater core is just like a radiator, as the hot coolant flows through it, the heat from the fluid is transfered from the radiator to the air, giving you hot air. Having your heater core flushed fixes the "my car blows air but not hot air" problem most of the time.

carfanat1c

Ok, I understand that but why would the water seemingly flow perfect when I squeeze on the hoses?

I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a "main" pipe throught the heater core to where coolant could flow through it but not dispensing throughout it properly, btw I did flush it last year as a precaution.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced my heater core over Thanksgiving. If you've ever taken your dashboard out before, it's not a big deal, although you have to pull your A/C evaporator out to get the heater box out, which means recovering your A/C refrigerant and then getting it replaced again (probably over $100 just for that). Other than that, it's a pretty easy job.

While I was at it, I replaced EVERY coolant-containing hose on the entire engine: all radiator and heater hoses, bypass hoses, oil cooler hoses, everything. Now THAT was a PITA and I would not recommend it to anyone unless the engine is out of the car.

One thing to look at: is the valve mounted on the firewall in-line with the heater inlet hose working correctly? There is a cable going from your heater controls down to the bottom of the heater box. This moves various dampers and flapper doors inside the box. Then there is another cable connected via levers to the first cable, and this cable goes through the firewall right by the heater hoses and connects to a water valve. Make sure this valve fully opens when you slide the temp. control to full hot. The valve has a plastic cover over it, so you'll need to pull this cover off to verify cable operation.

Other than that, I would say to pull each heater hose off of the engine (under the TB and under the distributor on the head) and flush out the heater core by itself, and see if that helps at all.

carfanat1c

Checked the valve... that was actually the FIRST thing I checked thanks!

All I'm wondering is why would the coolant would flow so easily through it if it was clogged?

Again, when I squeeze the unhooked hoses to the heater core they move proportionatly while squeezing, I was gonna try and backflush it tonight just for the hell of it.

Any more thoughts would help, yea I have bled the system thoroughly too.

j_bizach

Yeah i agree PatrickGSR94. It could also be ur heater core valve check that. But i would try having the core flushed before replacing it. Flushing your core is easy to do as long as its not below freezing out then you gotta take it to a shop. U simply disconect both hose going into your fire wall insert a garden hose into on side then run it till the water coming out is clear then go to the other side and and do the same. If youve never flushed your cooling system itd proly be a good idea to runs some radiator flush through your cooling system this will also help clean out your heater core.

If your controls are all working fine then the only thing it can be is a bad core but.... its a lot less money to flush it and if that dont work all your wasted was a half hour. THe coolant may seem like its flowing through but that doesnt mean that its full of rust and gunk.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

eh I dunno about that radiator flush stuff, I've heard it's not so good for Honda radiators.

But when flushing the heater core, I would advise removing the heater hoses from the engine (not from the heater core) and flushing that way. It will be alot easier to get the garden hose up to the end of the heater hose than to get it way down to the heater core pipe on the firewall. Plus it will probably be alot less messy that way.

Also, if there is any air trapped in the heater core, it could affect its ability to heat the air coming through from the blower motor.

Just curious, the last time you filled your radiator and then ran the engine to bring it up to operating temperature, did you notice the coolant trying to rise up and overflow the radiator filler neck? If so, this is telltale indication of air trapped in the system. I have heard of people having this problem after replacing their heater core, however I guess I was lucky enough to not have it happen to me. When I filled my cooling system after replacing my heater core, the coolant did not change level at all until the thermostat opened and the coolant level dropped.

carfanat1c

Thanks for the suggestions guys, As I mentioned I did flush it last year with a little bit of scales coming out and did just take the two hoses loose like patrick mentioned.

I'm pretty sure all the air is outta the system I have a funnel that fits tightly in the radiator and ran it for about an hour last night making sure all the bubbles are out.

And as far as coolant flush is concerned, thanks but no thanks.

The coolant is CLEAN as is every hose and line i have taken off, not trying to be a smartass just trying to explain everything.

I was just hoping for someone to be like "Hey I had the same problem it's this!"

carfanat1c

Oh yea one more question, before when I flushed the core the water came out fast(using a garden hose) should it come out fast? or should it come out kinda slow seeing as though its supposed to go throughout all the rails?

Basically what I'm saying is if 3/4 of the core was clogged it would just run through the 1/4 rapidly and really not flush the 3/4. It would seem like it should slow down quite a bit having to circulate through all those tiny little passages. This make any sense?

I don't know just thinking of possibilites and this might b good to know.