forbiddenera

Flywheel after machining.

3-way Herts speakers to be installed. Have to make mid and tweeter pods. The lows will go in stock spot.

This was Oct 2 2018...damn..usually doesnt snow here much til Nov.


Just led hedlights

Dark comparison

New headlights and fog comparison. Driver side needs new fog lens and headlight lens


Pic from accident

forbiddenera

So I had a Dual XRP540 or something that I got free from a client or something. It worked decent and had a surprising amount of power for what was obviously a cheap amp.

I had it in my Civic for a while and I always had issues with one speaker cutting out in that car. I assumed it was shitty wiring as there was lota in that car but now I am thinking maybe the amp was on it's way out. I had one ofmmy apeamers hanging in the door for testing last night and didnt realize it was touching the door with both terminals (ohm meter didnt show this either) so I kept hitting protection on my Audison amp, I figured maybe my new spekaers were a bit too low impedence for the amp and tried hooking it to the Dual. It squelched a bit and went to protection. Now it's locked into protection mode.

it was supposedly 1200w peak and 150x4@4ohm RMS. I wish those numbers were true, 150x4 rms for $100 would be a steal. And it did seem tonhave good power but if it were really putting 300w rms into the speakers I had (I had it bridged) then those speakers would have been destroyed. This is definitely an amp I would like to see on an amp dyno. I never calculated its clean power output myself as it was installed and setup at a time whe I had no oscope.

So how that it is dead, I got a Hertz HCP 4D. 4 ch, 85w*4 Real RMS. Keeping the Audison 5 ch and also have a 300w rms monoblock for thr main subs. Eventually the 300w monoblock (us accoustics or something) will get replaced with an HCP 1D and I will eventually replace my rear coaxials with some hertz too prob or audison. Essentially the whole system will be hertz for the most part.

I would love a Hertz or Audison Bit processor but the price is a bit high. I suppose a Bit 4.9 may be about the same price as thr processor I am looking at.. hmm. Maybe that is an option.. I was considering the iDatalink processor which has a rockford 360.3 built in pretty much as well as a maestro. Unfortunately this Maestro is only for oem installs and couldnt even be used with an aftermarket deck like a normal maestro i Hope they fix that. But the app for the iData processor is pretty decent. About the only feature missing is Q on the filters/filter type, only butterworth is there. But it does add the per speaker EQ on top of the parametric x-over so you can get a good visualization and adjust the curves a bit.

lets see. Unfortunately I cant say exact prices as I get dealer pricing, but I just checked.. I dont have a price for the idata processor yet but if its about what i think, the processor and hcp1d isnabout the exact cost of a Bit 4.9.. Now lets compare specs..

hertz 4*85w rms 1% thd
audison 4*70w rms 15 thd

the audison would have a bit more in the way of configuration within the processor (mainly filter type) but afaik presently does not have an app and Bluetooth is an extra dongle and if you want any remote control stuff you have to get the DRC and mount that in your car too..

with the idata processor, i lose filter Q, but I get bluetooth support from my phone thru app with easy controls for vol sub etc.

so will install this new amp soon. Dynamat doors. Make speaker rings. Make mid boxes. Wee.

mesonerz

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

VERY cool! I just found someone selling one needing major work and I am thinking about buy it. Missing drivetrain and wheels and needs cleaning up. Thinking about picking it up, particularly since I have a B16 from a 1999 Civic Si that was crushed by a tree.

I have lots of cars I am trying to restore. Check out my Instagram at leftfordeadcars to see what I am working with. Might not be the best idea to get another car but these cars are rare. Would hate to miss out on it.

Anyway, good luck with your build. I am subscribing!

forbiddenera

Hey guys.. been a while since an update.

Still have thr GS-R, driving it daily. Updated the rears to Hertz co-axials, still have to build mounts for the front mids and tweets.

Added an iDatalink Maestro DSR-1 Processor (basically a rockford 360) and a second rockford sub box (3sub total)

Got a lot of work coming up now that the weather is getting nicer.

Just finishing a big alarm on a 99SiR, it has most of the features my GS-R alarm has but also few new ones I will be backporting to my car.

I will be adding (not all these features were done on the SiR due to the owners preferences):
- automatic headlights - light sensor on dash fed to microcontroller which controls a relay turning on the headlights
- reverse mirrors - when I shift into reverse, a trigger is sent to the microcontroller which drives an l298 in h-bridge configuration, both side mirrors will automatically adjust down a bit and return to their orginal spot when shifted out of reverse
- window tuck - windows will roll down a tiny bit when opening the doors (like a lot of convertibles or bmws) and then roll up a bit when you close the door.. having frameless doors, this should already be a feature of the car but isn't - my passenger window never tucks into the weather strip unless I close the door WITH the window.. this feature would ensure the windows ALWAYS tuck into the weather stripping.
- shift indicator - an accelerometer will detect what gear I am in and display it on a 7seg LCD.
- new ignition kill setup tied into backup battery. If the backup battery is disconnected or the alarm is disconnected, the vehicle will not start. The vehicle also has secure gps tracking which I won't go into details on how it works.
- push to start system keyless fob based using the original acura alarm fob (custom, self built using microcontroller and s2000 push start button) with rgb led modification.


This is in addition to all the other alarm/conveinence features I have/am adding (sorry if I already listed this stuff):

- windows/sunroof closes when arming the car (I have a switch to turn this off too)
- one touch window control for side windows
- proximity unlocking unlocks the car automatically as I approach (also used to authorize the push start)
- proximity alarm with 2 stages, first stage warns people away from the car and is active 6-18 inches surrounding thr body of the car, second stage is full alarm and is active anywhere within the vehicle.
- windows close when alarm goes off, so can park with windows open and use proximity sensor to close them if someone gets too close
- keypad on windshield allows people to page me from my car and also allows me to enter a pin to unlock
- locking using the key in the driver door cylinder arms the car (cant disarm as there is no switch in the door for it)
- backup batteries
- gps tracking with backup
- tamper proof starter & ign kill
- smartphone/2way remotes so I get notified of everything
- remote start embedded too of course
- trunk actuator
- open/close windows & sunroof from remotes/smartphone

1stGENGSR

Congrats on the rare find! I’ve owned my 92’ GSR since 2000, I think I’m the 3rd owner. Mine’s been through two high-comp engine builds (both N/A done by me), the second had to happen due to a shattered oil pump gear about a year into the first, but I was able to make numerous improvements from the first go round, so it worked out, and I can also offer advice to anyone as to what worked better the 2nd time around in regard to parts (CTR slugs vs aftermarket, etc). I think one of my favorite things about them is their rarity and only little clues that give away what it is, like the VTEC side moldings on the fenders (all DAs say DOHC). None the less, I did want to warn you that the JDM one-piece headlights are not a direct swap, as I just recently starting resurrecting my car a month or so ago and learned the hard way. Those lights were something I got from a friend who had them on a DA he was getting rid of a couple of years back, so I traded him my OEM 3-piece for them. They use JDM H4H main bulbs which have to be ordered, the foglight plug doesn’t match up with the US one, and the JDMs are only set up for 1 corner bulb instead of 2. I modded some 9003 bulbs to fit the H4H socket (and got some 9004 to 9003 conversion harnesses from Amazon), rewired the foglight plug on the car and the H3 foglight bulbs to make them plug and play, and drilled & notched in a second corner light hole for the extra bulb (turn signal) we have, as the JDM is only setup for a three notch bulb, which is our parking light. It wasn’t too difficult and in hindsight I wish I’d made a guide, because I did a really good job on it, but figured the least I could do is warn somebody else before they go that route. Also, wanted to mention that the JDM foglight housing inside the overall headlight housing will make your foglight amber, no matter what color bulb you use. Eventually I’ll probably install some aftermarket 1-piece lights with halos and a black housing, but I had to get this inspection worthy as my HOA finally caught on that my tag has been dead for several years. On a good note though, I drove it the other night for the first time in 7-8 years (work, life, and laziness have gotten in the way over the better part of the last decade), and am on track to get it back up to daily driver status in the coming weeks. It’s nice to see that enthusiasts are still finding these rare beasts and giving them new life again. I look forward to seeing what you do with it. -Mike

forbiddenera

haven't done much but drive the car lately, hence no update.

my pp finally kicked the bucket. can't disengage the clutch anymore. and it slips a bit.

about to put the s4c in. took me a few minutes to find my flywheel again (okay, HOURS, searched my whole house twice, searched my garage, finally found it at home buried in a milkcrate under a bunch of wires for some dumb reason..?)

I've confirmed with the guy who sold me the s4c that it's got the ITR helical diff, considering the history that should definitely be the case. though aquafina said:

The seller seems pretty reputable, he worked at Acura for a while and the transmission came from a guy who worked at Acura even longer I think? Besides he's like 50, guys that old don't usually f*ck around with this stuff. And if it is exactly how he says it is then I got a pretty good deal anyway. And even if it was viscous, I still got a good deal... but apparently viscous was only a JDM thing anyway and this diff wasn't JDM yo; it's a new USDM ITR diff.

Got a shitty (XTD 6puck, brand new tho) clutch off a friend which came with an even shittier (still new) pressure plate; the pressure plate surface being too small compared to the clutch friction surface. My buddy also included a basically-new (says the car was only really towed around with the PP, it looks like it's been engaged before by looking at the teeth but it doesn't look like there's any wear on the surface) ACT pressure plate which has a wider surface, so I'll be using that instead.

Dug out my flywheel, which I couldn't remember what kind it was but it's the Exedy, which is nice, I also have the bearing kit from the Exedy hyper single (just comes in a nice box really) and a spare new throw out bearing (came with XTD clutch) and like 3 or 4 clutch alignment tools.

I've ordered the Innovative RH hydro mount and their cable adapter kit for now. I'll see how it feels; I'm going to try fabbing up a hydro clutch setup using an old prelude pedal and a welder eventually; for now I thought I'd try this. I'm also considering just finding a cable case and swapping the internals but.. kind of a pain and would be easier to do it before hand or just do it now but I don't want to tear into my good YS1 just for it's case (and would end up putting it's internals in the S4C case..)..

Also doing new thermostat, been noticing lately when car is cold it gets warm, then cold again..enough that it kicks on my cold rev limiter again, which is annoying.

Front windshield washer hose snapped. Fixed it easy though, it snapped right where a fitting already was so just a little slice and massaging.

I guess I never posted last time I did some work; so I replaced the axles with the ones from the EG since it's sitting and they were basically new. I also threw the full suspension (tokico blues and neuspeed race springs) I had on the EG on here (which was always a DA setup and works way better on the DA, rode like **** in comparison on the EG oddly enough) and did the 4x114.3 swap in the read with the trailing arms I prepped for the EG. They didn't have ABS machining so I wasn't able to re-mount the sensors, which was fine for now I guess since I've removed the fuse anyway. I'm still torn on completely deleting the ABS; it's a GS-R and I want to not completely destroy it.

I also swapped on the Skunk2 manifold which wouldn't work with my stock injectors thus I had to install my 550ccs and my chipped ECU and wideband. Started tuning it, did all this right before going to Vancouver and tuned on the way. Sucked. ecTune wasn't wanting to work until half way through the trip and trying to tune on Neptune in comparison wasn't as easy.

Not sure if it's just the Skunk2 TB or what but I'm having bad off/on throttle jerkiness.. The great Endyn mentioned in one of his pages that he had the same TB and had to swap it out for a cheap one as he couldn't get around it sticking at part throttle. I'm wondering if I'm experiencing the same; I've tuned around it as much as I can really. Might try some more adjustments but, I'm not sure.. I may even try swapping in the stock T/B just for SAGS and see how it goes.

It's winter here so the LSD will be especially fun I'm hoping.

I do have a turbo ready for this car; I pulled the bumper when I was doing the last bit of work and shaved it down a bit to try and fit my air/air from the EG, wasn't having it..and no way I could route the intake pipes otherwise.

I think my only decent choice is going to be air/water, with an inline core and small-med heat exchanger up front..much easier to route water lines up there than 2.5-3" intake pipes.

I refuse to delete A/C or P/S or severely hack the **** out of the car. I'm hoping the turbo and manifold I have is small enough that it'll fit with just removing the second fan and replacing it with a smaller one pushing from the front.

I'm not sure but I may actually even run this turbo "backwards", I usually run cold side on drivers side, can usually fit a cone filter right on the turbo no problem, my EG was like this and had perfect IC routing too. If I run it cold side on drivers side, I don't think I'll have enough room for much of a filter. I could just run a screen. If I run it backwards I might be able to fit one in there, I'll probably have to replace the rad fan with a low profile as well maybe. Will ultimately decide on the day I feel like unbolting my exhaust and trying to stuff on the manifold and turbo. I do have two manifolds and turbos avail; the EG is parked (might get its motor pulled and scrapped windows got smashed, dunno if I wanna fix, already pulled most the good stuff)

Biggest thing if I boost is that, 1. I do have an extra Aeromotive a340 pump but the part# is for EG, appartently slightly diff part# for da..I can probably shoe horn it in..but DA/DB2 means dropping the tank to **** with the fuel pump. Thus I'll want new straps, maybe even a new tank while I'm at it. I won't want to do much boost on the stock pump at all.

I would like to upgrade everything for e85/flex; I would have to use neptune or hondata at that point though; I don't think there's any way to trick ectune into doing it. We only have 1 e85 station in town anyway though. That would definitely be further down the road probably but I did upgrade most of the system on the EG thus have a few parts extra unless I put the EG back together too (which I'd like too, but I need windshield, drivers glass, drivers rear quarter..)

I was confused for a minute. Glad I used search before posting. My last flywheel (ACT) took 9, my arp kit comes with 9, the exedy flywheel in my lap only takes 6. I Was like WTF>!$?# IM GUNDAIE!%# but if OEM is 6 then meh.

Weird this flywheel seems nicer in most other ways but..9 bolts couldn't hurt tho..?

Also makes me wonder WTF I got the extra 3 bolts from..lol..I didn't have the arp PP bolts when my eg went together just the flywheel bolts..and I'm pretty sure the aftermarket had 9..

curious where my stock one went too.. oh well..

Can't wait to throw this all together.

The engine mount is supposedly being sorted in my city now; but I still don't have a tracking # for the actuator; they said they overnighted it today; which is odd because it was supposed to ship out Tuesday. Hope it comes !!

forbiddenera

F*cking Fedex.

Driver comes to my door today. Oh there's a $30 tax fee that you have to pay for your package; although every other package I've ever ordered in my entire life from any carrier, if there's been tax, just sends an invoice to me.

Says I can only pay by credit card or cash. Had no cash on me. Pull out my credit card. Oh, that credit card is no good because it's a Visa Debit. I'm like, try anyway? It's supposed to be accepted everywhere Visa is.. Oh I can't! I take it offline. Takes my part and walks away.

I read the slip he gives me "you can pay by credit card, cheque or cash" .. OH!@$ Thanks for telling me! Well, I have like 50 cheques I got for paying rent that I have like ZERO OTHER USE FOR. He was already gone.

I phoned them right away; they took my *exact same credit card* over the phone in like <30 seconds (could've easily been done while the driver was standing there).. Told them that I need the part for my car; that it's kind of a pain in the *** for me to drive up to pick it up. They said they'd send it out again today by 7pm

7pm comes and goes, no package. I call them, "oh sorry, the driver didn't have time today." .. but you told me it was coming 100% by 7pm.. if it was going to just go back to the warehouse, I could've gone up there (actually I was under 5min drive away from there right at 6:30pm so it would've been no issue)

They basically say that I can either come collect it tomorrow or wait for them to try and deliver it again on Monday. I asked to speak to a supervisor. One of her first questions was (lol, after I explain it's car parts I need to fix my car), "was this for a business?", well, technically, yes, I run an automotive business and did order the parts in my business name, so I say "Technically yes, it is being delivered to my house but is addressed to my business" .. she says "Okay, since I understand this is important to you I'll send a note to the delivery managers at that location and have them send it out as a special Saturday delivery"..

Man, I hate it when I'm pissed off at a company or something and then I get someone who's just super nice.. I mean of course, I try not to take my frustration out on people who had nothing to do with it but when you get what you want when you're totally not expecting it and frustrated it's a bit disarming! I thanked her, wished her a happy holidays and hung up. Then remembered I have a booking tomorrow morning and my girlfriend has to work. I was going to drive her, though now I'm going to hang around as long as I can for the package but can't keep my client waiting all day.

Though, if I have it, I'm meeting my client to do their job at the same shop I'll be fixing my car at, so I could potentially do it tomorrow.

The other issue is that I don't have the actuator adapter. Also very frustrating.

I've been researching for a while the different ways to do a hydro->cable swap and was having a hard time deciding on which way to go. Once I saw the Hush Performance piece, I was intrigued and really wanted to order one. Unfortunately they were out of stock of the DA mount and have no idea if or when they will make more. I asked a few other questions about my project and didn't really get much of an answer from them unfortunately. I didn't want to lose my pedal sensors anyway (cruise and clutch start) which is basically a requirement of this kit (the place the adapter bolts on is where those do, you can use the sensors as bolts but they apparently will just break, supposedly a "race" only part "not for street vehicles" as it's not a DOT approved part - well, I get the CYA but I'm not sure this type of part would apply, regardless, I'm in Canada! Especially in Alberta, you can basically do whatever you want to your car here)

Anyway, I moved on to Hasport, asking them a few questions about their different adapters and such. I kept getting told that they would "get back to me soon" or "this afternoon" or .. well basically my questions never got answered.

Then to Innovative, they answered most of my questions (missing only one of my questions, it happens, though I did ask a few times, was just asking if I 100% only need the RH hydro mount to do the swap) and gave me a good description of their adapter (I was basically asking both companies "Why is yours better? What makes it better?", like sell me on it, usually you don't engineer a part if someone already has one on the market (at least with this small of a market) unless you think you can improve on it; so what's improved with the engineering? what makes it better? Well, I got a decent answer from them and no one else, so props to Innovative for that.

Looked around to a few sites for the parts, was going to order from SwapShopRacing as they had the cheapest price; I asked them directly if there was any benefits to ordering direct mentioning that I don't mind dealing with a dealer at all especially when their price is currently lower than the price on the manufacturers site, though I would've preferred to maybe order direct. They responded with a generous coupon code specifically for my order which made it cheaper than SSR's price including shipping, which I was quite thankful for!

I made my order Monday evening, realized immediately that I had selected the wrong durameter rating for the mount and informed them that I wanted the 75A black not the 60A red, their response on Tuesday was: "i changed it for you. this product will be shipping today from two different locations. Expect two boxes later this week" -- Perfect! Was super happy at this point.

I didn't see any tracking #s by the next day until later in the day when I finally got one for the mount which said it would indeed be in by end of week (see Fedex issues above, it was delivered today, sorta). Great.

I still didn't see a tracking # for the actuator though by Thursday, I asked about it and mentioned that if they hadn't sent it out yet that the only chance I was going to get it by Friday was if they overnighted it (and if it got on the truck before cutoff). They did send it overnight as far as I can tell, but it wasn't initially scanned in until ~9pm with the label created at 12pm, thus will supposedly arrive Monday.

Now, I booked a lift bay at local self-serve shop ($200/day) and mechanic friend of mine who works at that shop's time (also $200/day) based on the fact they said it would be shipped out Tuesday and that it should arrive this week.

I'm frustrated that neither item was actually shipped out Tuesday as they said. One item had it's shipping information entered around 1:30pm Wednesday, a full business day. Again, my order was in Monday evening, so ready for Tuesday morning.

I run an automotive business myself and often ship things to clients. As long as an order is received and processed before the delivery truck comes for pickup at our warehouse at approx 3pm everyday, it goes out that day, if not the next. Regardless, the main thing is communication. I understand it's a busy time of year and I understand that things happen. If they had messaged me back Tuesday evening and said, "We weren't able to get your parts on the truck today but we will try for tomorrow" I could've adjusted my scheduling. If for any reason someone orders something from me and there is going to be any kind of delay, I let them know immediately why, how long and when they can expect delivery.

I'm basically stuck now hoping that Fedex delivers the engine mount before I have to leave for the shop tomorrow morning. If it comes, I can still swap my transmission. I won't be able to actuate my clutch however, though that's no different than the situation I am currently in, just for a different reason.

I could probably install the cable adapter at home without the shop, but I really didn't want to drive around on a brand new clutch like that. I really wanted to get it fixed up before Christmas. Regardless this is my only working vehicle at the moment and I need it for work / running my business. Even if I do get the part Saturday, I have to hope I get my client finished quick enough that I have enough time to do the transmission swap as I need my vehicle again the next morning for another install which isn't booked at the shop (though if it was, I wouldn't feel as pressured) so essentially I'll have 3-4 hours max to do the whole swap.

I will have a lift, transmission jack and shop full of almost any tool I could need or want as well as help from an experienced mechanic, so it's not infeasible. The quicker I do it, the less time I have to pay for as well.

UGH I'm so stressed right now, I don't even know if I'm going to be able to fix my car tomorrow.

forbiddenera

On the flip side though.. I am excited to finally have some LSD. Never really driven a FWD car daily with LSD but always loved it in RWD cars.

tony_2018

Ah, so the civic hatchback is done and gone, looking forward to the teal build.

forbiddenera

The EG6 Sedan is gone. The EH2 Hatchback, I still have it; the b17a1 is still in it, pulled the turbo so it didn't get stolen. Windows are smashed out, don't know if I want to fix or just pull the b17.

Windows were also smashed on the EG6 (all of them not just 3)

dunno what to do.. honestly I was helping some young kid with an EG with tuning his car, but his car had a **** ton of issues, which I ended up fixing most of them for like nothing.. felt bad for him, he paid like 3.5k for a rusty shitty EG with a "built" d series and another like 2k for a "turbo kit" with a hx35 or some ****, bigass diesel turbo..exiting out the hood..gave him shifter bushings I got d series by accident so I threw him on his car free and made his shifter nice and tight (was loose as a goose before), replaced his turbo oil feed after his "steel braided line" snapped in half (you couldn't bend it more than like 10 degrees without it snapping..was just fucked) and spewed oil all over my driveway which he promised to clean and never did. did a bunch of re-wiring including race style ignition switches.. chipped an ecu for him and wired up ecu boost control and got him a boost solenoid.. re-did his waste gate plumbing..gave him a throttle body because his had a massive hole in it..bled his brakes..bled his clutch..

finally got it to the point where I wanted to take it out for a pull and do a log (well, not really, had stock/toast brakes, scary to stop after more than one pull, I told him after that he gets brakes or we go to dyno..I didn't feel safe street tuning that ****).. popped the headgasket immediately under boost.. map was rich, ignition was retarded as heck, only was going to 5psi, leaned out a bit up top..

brought it back.. found a fake fuel pump and a graphite headgasket. couldn't even get the ******* turbo off because the turbo was so stupid big; had to pull the turbo and head together.

YES. A GRAPHITE HEADGASKET. Something I've never seen or heard of before on a Honda, let alone anyone I've ever talked to about it.

Got the kid a new headgasket from Honda and threw it back together for him.. compression was **** after.. wasn't great before really either but..

For some reason after the car didn't want to fire at all; not sure why, might have had a bad g101 or I don't know, didn't get time to troubleshoot it. Winter was coming; he said he was going to rent a garage to work on it there, was supposed to come tow it and give me some cash.. gave me a fake address for a garage.. had me leave the keys in the car.. tow driver came and i figured out he was just gonna tow it away without paying me.. I was pretty pissed and almost just had the tow driver take it to my shop but I didn't trust the tow driver to not tell the kid where it was and I didn't trust the kid to not **** my **** up so I just let him take the car.

few days later he is accusing me of smashing out one of his windows. car was fine when I last saw it. i did take my fuel pump back out though, he hadn't paid for it so **** that.

next day, came out and both EGs had smashed windows as well as my in law's camping trailer's windows.

kids name was Alex Power; was like 18 or something..was an ugly teal EG in Calgary..

so yeah.. I wanna maybe keep the EG but I really gotta get the glass and I just haven't been getting enough business lately..need a remote starter? lol

forbiddenera

Ugh.. Now UPS has a shipping exception on my other item (the actuator). Apparently I need to assign a broker; should be automatic with such a small value package AFAIK, I didn't have to do this with FedEx. Plus it was sent 'overnight' and no one called to ask this or anything.

Useless shipping companies.

Anyway, Innovative Mounts did get back to me, apologized for not sending it out when they said / not updating me about it being late / apologized for the shipping issues (though once they did send it, it's out of their hands, I get that) and made a reasonable an acceptable offer to me to make it right; I don't want to advertise what they did for me because I don't want future customers begging them for things over minor issues but I will say what they've done made up for the inconvenience. Still doesn't get my car fixed before Christmas but I accept the apology and what they've tried to do to make it right and I do understand the holidays are busy and hectic so I'm not going to hold it against them.

A+ to Innovative for actually caring about their customers; I admit I was a bit worried last week but I'm sure they had some reason for sending it late/not updating me (packages had to come from two places, assuming one of the parts I needed was only available at one of their dealers or something and thus they had to have the dealer send it out and were relying on them to/hoping they would do it in a timely manner)

I can definitely say I will purchase from them again regardless of the minor issue. I do hope in the future that if they have any shipping issues they let the customer know right away, but again, holidays and ****; not going to hold it against them especially when they apologized and went out of their way to make it right, that means a lot to me. Anyone and everyone can make mistakes or miss things; how it's handled when it happens is what's key.

forbiddenera

Picked up the actuator today. UPS didn't wanna send it out and I didn't wanna wait around all day on Christmas Eve waiting for it.

Really wish it had just come in the morning as the transmission would be in now.

I actually can't wait to see how this cable adapter feels. I think it might work decently OK, but I guess we'll have to see. Looks nice, feels nice and well built. Has nice adjustability in the piece that goes to the release fork, so I can adjust that and the cable to hopefully get a good feel.


Innovate DA Cable to Hydro Mount

Innovative Cable to Hydro Adapter Kit (this is the cable only kit, they also have a kit that uses a master/slave actuated by the cable)

small ding in one of the brackets; I don't care but someone building a blingy perfect car might; then again they'd probably find a way better way to do the conversion than this!

forbiddenera

Sore and f*cking tired.

Didn't take any pictures because my phone was dead most of the time and using a self serve shop and paying by the hour taking pictures doesn't help things go faster.

The S4C w/LSD is now installed with Innovative Mount's 41000 cable-to-hydraulic actuator and hydro left side mount for DA, a brand new 6-puck clutch disc (xtd ebay), ~9lb? exedy flywheel, ACT pressure plate, and the YS1 is out.

The pressure plate that came with the XTD clutch was rediculous, the friction area on the clutch disc was wider than the pressure plate, though the XTD plate was lighter than the ACT plate and OEM, I didn't want a ridge wearing on the inner ring of my clutch and I had a nearly new ACT that also came with the XTD clutch so I figured I'd use it. New exedy throw out bearing/pressure plate bearing from their hyper single kit.

I wasn't sure I'd be able to use my existing clutch cable at first, it didn't seem like it would want to fit but I got the car a bit more together and was able to get it in place. The routing sucks right now, is kind of tight and can probably be much better. I haven't adjusted **** yet and it's disengaging a little closer to the floor than I'd like.

I'd say it's maybe just a bit less than 2x as stiff as it was. I would guess the pressure plate is about 20-30% stiffer than OEM and the rest is from the hydro adaptation. It doesn't feel bad. So far I'm impressed with the actuator. The mount was of good quality. It all installed good and Innovative was quite helpful with my purchase.

As much as I want to go full hydro, I don't regret going this route for now yet, I would've gone hydro if I could've got the DA hush performance kit but I couldn't, I may eventually fab up a pedal set with an old prelude one welded to mine.

One of my left front brake pads exploded on the way to the shop and my pedal ended up on the floor. It was already making noise and I had got brake pads.

The parts store however gave me the wrong pads, they were huge..? Their system shows 92-93 GSR has different pads from LS.. AFAIK they're the same and they are on my GSR so I had to exchange them for 'LS' pads.

I didn't think the newer GSR had bigger brakes? The Type R ones are a bit bigger IIRC (I ended up using Prelude VTEC brakes on my 4x114.3 ITR swapped EG) and I've heard of people swapping in type R brakes but never GSR brakes really? Actually I think 96SpecR JDM brakes are only the 262mm, pretty sure the brakes that came with my ITR swap were the same as any other Integra brakes. I'm sure 98SpecR and USDM ITR is probably the 282mm..? I know the Prelude rotors and calipers I got were definitely larger than what came with the swap. I plan on eventually running that setup on this car. I have a 2nd swap minus one hub which I haven't got from the guy (and dunno if I will )

My best guess was that someone assumed all the GSR's had bigger brakes when making their database? I mean I literally have never heard of any GSR having bigger brakes..?

AcuraPartsNow confirms the '93 GSR has the same brakes as '93 LS/GS/etc..

Kind of a **** off.. Wasted like an extra hour at the shop because of that but hey.. the staff that run the local diy shop are awesome, to say the least.

New transmission drives nice, shifts good, feels like a brand new transmission pretty much, which it should as it was just rebuilt. LSD feels good so far, haven't really hit too hard on it as it's like -10c right now, but had one tire on some snow and the other on pavement and it just went instead of breaking the tire on snow, wouldn't work as well on sheer ice (needs some torque to lock up) but was cool. Can't wait to hit some good corners but that might be a bit.

Clutch grabs good. Definitely have to get used to it.

The transmission has an LS 5th, which is also going to take some getting used to.. It's like, if the GS-R had a 6th gear, that might be the ratio. It's feels like I'm skipping a gear between 4th and 5th.. Under 3000rpm at 100km/h instead of like 4000rpm, literally like a 1000 RPM drop at highway speeds.

Also got a new battery-ish..? Terminals are swapped, which is my fault because I re-did the wires on the car with a battery that was swapped from OEM in the first place, so now I need a backwards battery..I went to exchange it and the guy was a dink about it and wouldn't do it but I'll go back later. Also the name on the f*cking bill isn't even mine.

To sum up;
- new brake rotors
- new brake pads
- cleaned up and greased calipers
- fresh rebuilt s4c w/ brand new LSD installed
- new 6-puck clutch, act pressure plate, exedy lightweight flywheel
- thermostat replaced, new coolant
- oil change done, mobil1 synthetic w/wix XP filter
- put winter tires on the rear, already had 'em on front ( I still had the toyos on the back bad mee.. and now they have like no wet tread left.. haha )
- fresh honda mtf in trans (for now, going to switch to torco mtf/rtf, prob 50/50 whenever I get some soon here)
- new battery

.........I FINALLY HAVE LSD!@#!#$ (and yet I still want some.. )

forbiddenera

So ironic that's the last thing I said after this last weekend...

Anyhow, I haven't posted in a while, haven't done much since the trans swap.

The original clutch cable exploded eventually. I'm sure it was well fuckered before I even started the trans swap, could've been part of my clutching issues although it looked like it was mostly fine.

Got one off an LS from the JY, seems like the grommet line up is a bit different, I had to shove the rubber through the firewall to make it sit right, but finally it's consistent, not moving around (adjustment) and working pretty decent. Still not as good as hydro but better than I expected using just the bracket adapter with a heavier pressure plate.

I'm about to boost the car. I have an A2W I/C on the way from frozenboost. Didn't order either of their pumps, instead opted to try an inverter pump from a Prius.

Got one out of a gen1, accidentally reverse polaritied it (why the heck does toyota use white for ground and black for 12v?) I think and it blew up during testing. I could only find gen3 after, which uses 4 wires to the pump. After a few hours of research, I learn that the other two pins are seemingly an RPM output and a duty cycle input (from prius ecu).. A thread over on PriusChat https://priuschat.com/threads/2001-p...p.77052/page-6 had some people trying to use a gen3 in a gen1 car, the one guy seemed to know his stuff and tested the pins and stuff but I didn't see anything about him actually getting it working. The thread was from 7 years ago, I'm sure there weren't many Prius in the JY then and the pumps were at best $100+ USD, so I understand not wanting to fry one to test.

Reviewing the wiring diagram for a gen3 prius, it showed that the blue wire is +12v from the inverter coolant pump relay and white/black is ground. The other two go to the ECU and are, from what I can tell, the inputs/outputs described above. The thread I linked and the research I had done suggested that this pump definitely has some control electronics and might not even do anything or fail without a duty cycle signal applied or only run at partial duty cycle.

My first pump was $10 CAD from PNP..so I went and exchanged it for a gen3..worst case I have to exchange it again..so I powered it up and it ran..seemed to pump as much as the gen1 did. Sweet. Perhaps I can make a duty cycle controller later to set duty based off temperature.

I also grabbed a couple of vacuum pumps off a Volvo and Audi, hoping to use one for getting some extra brake boost vacuum when the engine is in boost/low vac times/two footing and the other to suck on my PCV/catch can setup. I tested both with the brakes, seems to kinda work OK but I think I need a vacuum res to really help a bit. Will have to experiment and see.

I am also going to remove the ABS. I didn't want to, but again the rear trailing arms that are on now do not have the bosses, so no chance of it working anyway. It's taking up space that I need for my catchcan and other turbo stuff. It almost made me wreck the car. Maybe one day I'll be able to afford Bosch motorsport ABS ($10k+) but hey..

Still don't know which turbo I'm going to use, will have to see how things fit. Swapped out the rad with the one from my EG. Unfortunately my aluminum GSR rad blew up. I replaced my thermostat, used a parts store one, didn't work right, built up pressure and went through a weak spot in the rad. I'm sure it was on it's way out anyway unfortunately. Oh well, the half rad had to go in anyway for boost.

Should be an interesting time coming up :D

forbiddenera

Pulled the boost solenoid, 4040 prop valve (abs delete) adjustable cam gears, oil feed and drain setup from eg for the db2. Gonna pull the oil pan too cuz it has a fitting already..

my intercooler hasn't moved in 36 hours..damn shipping companies..oh wait I've said that.

1stGENGSR

If you run into anymore issues with the hydro2cable conversion stretching/snapping clutch cables, you can always swap the S4C internals into the YS1 case, and it will function like stock. I did this last year with an S4C I got off of a local guy that also had an LSD and LS 5th. Only difference I can tell between ours, is my LSD is a Wavetrac and not OEM. Works great! Big improvement over the LS tranny I was using prior (long story involving an LS trans and clutch disc I already happened to have, and no money [at the time] to repair one of my short geared trans or buy another)... Glad to see you’re still working on it.

forbiddenera

I definitely considered swapping internals, I'm sure I mentioned it above somewhere. I wanted to keep my YS1 intact for re-use or sale purposes. As of now it feels great, basically like stock. I would do a full hydro conversion before swapping internals I think, and eventually I will likely get around to that. Heard there might be a new pedal bracket coming out from somewhere otherwise I was thinking of welding up my own pedal set with parts from a Prelude maybe.

I took out most of the ABS stuff today, accumulator, pump, solenoid block and reservoir etc. Tomorrow I'll pull the intake manifold, install the 4040 prop and finish the brake lines, while the manifold is off I will remove the breather box and plug it's hole and install my catch can fittings in the back of the block, I will also install my sandwich plate for turbo feed/oil pressure sensor. Not sure if I'm going to run a mech gauge in this car, I might just run a sensor into the ECU.

I need to get or build a vacuum reservoir as I plan on using a UP28/UP30/UP32 pump (I have two up28 I think, trying to find a 30 in the j/y) to provide extra vacuum to the brakes when in low vac or boost, I was planning on having the pump engage with a programmable output on the ECU; If BKSW == ON && MAP >= 800MBAR then Engage Vacuum Pump Relay. This way the pump is only on when I'm braking and potentially have low vacuum. Will see how this control method works, the alternate is to use a vacuum switch on the booster/reservoir to control it - unless the ECU method works great, I'll may do this - it would free up an output on the ECU anyway.

I will need to see how much a vac reservoir helps; with the good one of my two pumps I was able to get about 1-1.5 brake applications before vacuum was gone, though that's just the booster. The stronger seeming of the two pumps almost had enough juice to keep it mostly soft even after running out of vac, a reservoir would obviously help the number of applications as well as give the pump a buffer to 'fill' which could help. Another thing I could do is tee in both pumps; I'm pretty sure even the weaker pump will pull too much vacuum on the crankcase, though I'll have to test to be sure. Ideally, I'll find a UP30/UP32 pump instead from the j/y soon as these can provide vacuum quicker and are slightly more powerful and while I can't find a duty cycle specification anywhere from Hella, the UP30/32 is more meant for cars with no vacuum source (electric) thus likely has a higher duty ability. I ran both under load for about 5min and they were a bit toasty; definitely not something to run full time, although that's not really needed, once you've evacuated your booster and any reservoirs running the pump any longer is pointless, at least until you touch the brakes.

My ultimate goal is to be able to two-foot brake through corners without losing brake boost.

Also as I mentioned I may use one of the vacuum pumps to pull some vacuum on my catch can to aid in ring seal and crankcase ventilation, I'm not sure if I still have the rubber fitting that came with my Endyn catch can to do this, though it shouldn't be hard to figure out something. Wondering if the catch can would be enough or if I should use an additional filter in line with that pump. The pumps go for $250-500 online and I got them at the JY for ~$10 so, worth playing with.

I still don't know which turbo I'm going to use; I'm worried about the AC compressor being in the way of things. I'm wondering if maybe the g3 tegs have a smaller compressor or something. I do not want to delete AC. I didn't even really want to delete the ABS but I had already swapped on non-ABS ITR 4x114.3 rear trailing arms, already had the ABS almost make me crash and don't really like the 1g system. I am considering selling it because otherwise it was working perfectly; but I will be running big Prelude brakes up front ITR brakes on the rear with RA1 tires..one day maybe I'll be able to afford the Bosch Motorsport ABS system.

forbiddenera

Going to search on updating the AC to R134a I guess..?

It's always worked pretty decent.. Recently though, it hasn't been working as well - on the datalog it shows that the ACC isn't active sometimes even when the ACSW is; not sure what is causing that..when it does kick on it seems to work good, though lately it's been taking a lot longer to get cold. I'm sure a re-charge and a going-over is in order, I may have to temporarily move stuff to install the turbo so might not have a way around that anyway.

My A2W intercooler cleared customs yesterday; hopefully it will arrive tomorrow. Excited to use a OEM pump instead of having to have spent $$$ on ordering one specific for this.

I also met this pretty cute girl lately who's all into cars (and video games?), works at a JY and has a turbo delsol.. dunno if we'll ever be anything more than friends (though I wouldn't complain, I am in an open relationship) but regardless she seems pretty cool so far. Went out a few weeks ago and did a small base map for her as her tune was just fucked, got it driveable because she needed to move it, but now that the weather is nice she said she's going to get it registered and insured so I'm sure I'll be going back and finishing the tune for her. Driving her Sol definitely made me miss hydro clutchiness. Didn't make me miss Hondata (I still don't understand why I can't easily just go up/down or edit the target table in neptune or hondata, sure you can pre-set 3-areas or modify it on Neptune with a bit of a workaround but it should be as easy as changing the fuel values!) but hey, it works. It's got a B18B1 with a T3/T4, I think she wants to LSVTEC it and I'll likely be helping - at least with tuning and wiring - seems like she wants to turn her own wrenches.

My old wastegate off the EG was a rip off TurboSmart, it kinda worked but I'm seriously considering getting a new real one. I still want to build my electronic WG, I may put some funds into a prototype this year but will see. I'd hate if I bought a $400 WG then ended up building my electronic by the end of summer; that $400 would be better put into the prototype, that said I'm not sure if I want to use the old one at all. Maybe I'll buy a non-rip-off style ebay one for now or something. Will have to see; I'll probably just try it at first and see, I had modified it last time with a weaker spring (from an RC car) so it was kind of in the range I wanted, though a proper wastegate is a definite good thing to have - it's tough for me to want to spend 2x the $ on a WG than I did the turbo (although buying a real (non-ebay) turbo is tempting too..)

forbiddenera

Ordered ebay 2.5" "n1 style" exhaust tonight. The one I had on my eg wasn't terrible although I'll probably hack the muffler off eventually for something more stock looking and not a 4" hole.

Didn't wanna spend 800-1000 on a brand name exhaust although the hks was tempting it was only 2.1" and I'm boosting.

Haven't ordered a downpipe yet, gotta see which way I'm mounting the turbo. On my EG the exhaust was passenger exit and I think I prefer that. I have two log manifolds and two turbos as options. One manifold is the log from the eg with the eBay t3t4 on it, the other is a smaller log with a smaller Nissan style t28-ish-size probably ebay turbo on it.

I am very likely going to just get a new wg as well. Also going to order all new LEDs from superbright and return as many of the parts store ones I van because they almost all flicker and suck.

I got a new drivers side fog and headlight from the JY. Will put that on soon as well.

A guy who visits someone who lives near me has an AGP RS, I left a note offering to buy maybe a bit ago, I'm going to call him back soon. If I get it, likely my gf will drive it as it's auto. I'll likely swap the drivers door and anything else that's in better shape to the GSR though, assuming I get it. Seems like he still drives it. Gotta call him and see though.

forbiddenera

Went out with delsol chick today for some parts - was going to steal hardlines off my EG but grabbed a set from the JY, also got a couple extra 4' lines and double flaring tool, bending tool and cutting tool from autovalue ($100 alone for the ******* double flare tool! probably going back especially if I don't need it, no they didn't have a rental)

Tuned up her 'sol a bit, I still want to switch her from MBC to EBC but will have to modify her ECU and find her a solenoid. I was wondering why no one ever uses the Honda solenoids, might be worth a shot, seen people use them before with MBC setups. Hits almost 10PSI up top right now, she also needs a better map sensor, she grabbed herself a 2bar gm from her work (jy) but we haven't thrown it on yet. Still running a bit lean on startup, Hondata pissing me off huge.

Like, eCtune was never finished but seems like a better program in some respects. I don't know if it was just her laptop but it kept just glitching like I'd highlight some cells to increase then suddenly they weren't highlighted by the time I hit CTRL-I.. Can't individually set target for every cell, only 3 different MAP areas. I had set it to Celsius in the settings but the data area was still showing F, not only that, all the correction factors were supposedly off - for example, the engine was running at 90 deg C or 194 F, the coolant compensation table showed that the highest column was active even though it was specified in C, this was fixed after changing each sensor to use C specifically - whether the correction factors were actually off or just the visual representation of them, I do not know.

Closed loop also wasn't working right, nothing I did would get it to kick on.. Then out of desperation I clicked o2 sensor heator on and off and BAM closed loop kicked in again. Change any close loop settings and it stops working, turn heater on and off again and it works again. WTF. Just minor things, maybe. Not sure. Car was going real lean after a re-start even if the temps barely dropped - no idea what compensation could be causing that, I have a little fuel added on crank and post crank.

Will have to play with it some more later I guess. Did make some progress though, I'd say 80% of main areas of table are within 5% or less of my targets. Haven't touched ign, she only seems to want to run 91 which is understandable as 94 is a bit harder to find (though totally available here) so will tune for that, but going to get fuel nailed in and stuff first, don't have a timing light handy so I don't even know if her dizzy is sync'd to the ECU or not, I backed the timing off a bit from Hondata's default, probably about 1.5deg/PSI@10PSI..

Getting a bit late today, so not sure if I'll get any work done on mine

Intercooler didn't arrive today as I'd hoped, tracking hasn't been updated since Weds@5pm..which is kinda poop..but I guess pandemic..people probably need other stuff more than I need an intercooler..? Not that the postal service knows wtf is in every box but..hey..

I am gonna try and take more pictures as well, I always just get into things and forget or if I do take them I forget to post but I know pictures can be more exciting than these walls of text I post

forbiddenera

Photobombo


What goes better with corona than a Corona?

3g Prius Waterpump to br used as an intercooler punp. I may also plumb in my oem oil cooler though I wouldn't want to overcool the oil.

Hella Vacuum Pump $10 at jy $250+ online

Smaller turbo/manifold, got this one for the teg specific because I figured I would have to go tiny to do it. Will see.

Both turbos. Bigger one is a relatively new ebay t3t4, was on my eg for a bit.

I think a bit of materal transferred from my hondata gasket. Oh well its still plenty good to reuse. Catch can fittings in. Need to get a freeze plug for the breather box hole and wither cap off the top fitting, swap it with a plug or something. The plug from my endyn kit is on my other block, I used a rubber expandable freeze plug grommet thingy on my EG for the breather box which i thought was a good solution but..it wasnt there anymore when I took the catchcan fittings off that block..so..

No studs on firewall to mount prop valve?

Sandwhich installed

I'm not 100% certain on how I'm going to do the ABS delete. Everything is removed now. I read a thread on here that said all your need is eg lines, 4040 and tools. So I got some eg lines, bender, cutter, flare tool and a few extra lines. Other than not having studs on the firewall to mount the bracket for the prop valve I might be OK?

Seems like the rears are fed from behind where the ABS solenoid box was, on an eg it goes from the prop valve straight under the car. I wasn't about to run new hard lines all the way to the back even if the EG ones fit.. I must be missing something, I will have to reread the thread maybe but worst case I can bend up a couple lines to go from the prop to.the rear "thingy"


This is what seemingly feeds the rears? Looks like a prop valve but smaller and only 2 in 2 out..almost like just a coupler but but not 100% sure

forbiddenera

The small manifold I got won't really work.. the bigger manifold puts my waste gate outlet right into AC line's

both turbos fit with the bigger manifold when mounted for passenger exhaust exit. The big one just barely fits and I think I'll need to pull the heat shield off the ac compressor to clock it a few more degrees. Drivers side exit puts turbo intake right into the clutch cable; in retrospect the hasport conversion is probably more turbo friendly than the innovative but eventually I plan on going full hydro so..
​​​​​

I may still run the smaller turbo. I was considering maybe running an internal gate for now but I'd have to block off the wg outlet.

I may end up ordering a better manifold. Not sure. Intercooler arrived today but no one came to the door..? Have to pick up from the post office tomorrow.

trying a rubber plug again, partially in the spirit of keeping everything I'm doing relatively reversable (even the ABS could go back on, I made an adapter cable for the reverse switch instead of just splicing on the newer plug, same with electric fan etc) because GS-R.

Got the prius pump mounted using oem bolt holes hopefully it's in a good spot. Mounted the vacuum pump with a hose clamp and zip tie for now, I plan to get a catch can style mount for it, probably need two since I can't find the bracket for my catch can.

Just need to install my oil pan that has the drain, plumb the intercooler and boost pipes, bleed and test brakes, figure out the waste gate hitting ac hose and I'm mostly done.

still gotta do wiring for intercooler pump, vacuum pump, boost solenoid..

I got my PLX gauge reading custom values from a microcontroller, I'm going to use this to read datalog from the ecu and send it to my multi gauge. Working decent so far although there's some undocumented stuff in the protocol I am the ring to figure out.

there are two sensor types for vac and boost, 3 and 4. If you send sensor type 3 first, it shows 'vacuum' on the gauge and reads from -30 inches to +30psi or so. If I send type 4 first, the gauge says "boost' and shows 0 to 60psi, with a line at 14.7. I've tried sending 03 when in vac and 04 when in boost with no luck. Manipulating a few other values in the data packet seemed to get the gauge to switch pages but I couldn't reliably get it to switch to/from vac/boost. At some point it did show negative units under vacuum which could be cool (normally it's showing no negative sign when in vac or boost making it hard to determine whether you are in vac or boost because it doesn't show units) if that worked at least enough to show negative in vac and pos in boost.

I could simply deal with the gauge saying "vacuum" all the time if I have to but I have a hunch I can get it to read better. I'm considering getting the smpro sensor module (two fluid pressure, two fluid temp, iat, egt, 3bar) but while I'll still want to have my datalog on the gauge, with its built in map I'm not sure I'll need to send vac from the ecu, though if I had that module I could datalog it and figure out if I am missing something in the protocol. I could maybe find somewhere with just the vac/boost module but unless it was dirt cheap I'd probably rather just get the sm pro..

I haven't seen how the gauge is supposed to behave with vac/boost but I'm thinking it has to either show negative in vacuum or change to say boost when in boost. If I send sensor 3 and 4 at the same time only one of the two shows up, unlike any other sensors, so I'm assuming they have to be combined somehow but..really need a datalog from a smpro or sm boost module to gauge..

I should be able to have a microcontroller read datalog from ecu, add in extra values from analog sensors if I want and send it to my mutli gauge as well as output it over bluetooth for tunerview.

weeee

forbiddenera

Oh I also got the brake lines done mostly using all stock lines I had to make a 6 inch line and reuse half the rear coupler for the right front wheel because the stock line was a touch short.

Hoping I got them all to the right spot. Pretty sure I did. Lol

forbiddenera