When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys.. Some of you might be familiar with me, from my business (IdealSound & Performance) or from my "Rally Hatch Build Thread"
So a while ago, I was working for a client and noticed a teal Integra parked up the street. Thought I recognized it, I had seen it before 5 years ago when a friend lived on the same block. Seemed like it was parked in the same spot. I took a quick look while my client was inside and noticed it was a GS-R. So, I left a note saying "If you ever wanna sell this car, give me a CALL!"..I figured the owner likely would either never see the note because it didn't seem like they drove the car and I figured it would end up destroyed by the weather before he read it.
Well, today I wake up to a text.. "1993 GSR, hello, I have a GSR and may be interested in selling. You had left a note on my car a while ago indicating if I was interested in selling to contact you. If you are interested you can contract me at this number. Thanks "
so, I poop my pants and reply, I knew which car it was immediately (although I've given my # on more than a few cars saying the same thing) .. guy said it was still sitting there and he left the hood popped so I could look at the engine. I was thinking crap, maybe I can offer like $500 or something - I mean I honestly can't afford 500 right now but passing up a 92/93 GSR would be silly, and I figured 500 was a low ball unless he had no idea what it was..he does..obviously..he bought it in 93 and kept it for 25 years.
THEN HE OFFERS TO SELL IT FOR EVEN LESS THAN I WAS GOING TO OFFER. I won't say how much, it was too low.
I get ready, anxiously wait for my girlfriend to shower, skip my own shower and drive down to the car and look at it, honestly didn't remember how bad or good of shape it was in.
Other than some rust patches on the driver door, it is pretty damn clean. Interior is super clean. Engine is dusty but clean and stock untouched. So I'm like, in my mind, sure, I'll take it.
I go and call him, he is still in the area (he said he was going out of town later today for 10 days so..) and we meet. I look at it inside, interior definitely clean and he tells me the history.
He bought it in October of 1993, it had been driven for about 10 months as a lease. Whoever had it definitely drove it a LOT as he said there was 25,000km on it when he got it and 25 megameters in under a year is a LOT, like road trips the whole time a lot. That's like across Canada 5 times. I drive a ton and don't even do 25 megameters per year. So he's the second owner. It was maintained it's entire life at Acura.
He tried to boost it last night, said it wouldn't start. Said it wouldn't even turn over or turn on. So I check the main fuse and ask if he out the terminals on backwards, he said it was a possibility. Threw a jumper wire in the fuse box, turned it over a bit, sounded OK. She wouldn't fire, but, 95% of gas here is E10, so I imagine it's gummed, it's been sitting for a while but he also said it was the first time it wouldn't start, ever.
Also, as I was checking out the car, he said maybe we could trade for services from my business. I didn't have the cash on me today anyway. I offered him an additional $100 above his asking price in the form of a gift card and he accepted. So, one day he'll call me up and get a (nearly) free remote starter installed or something, his choice, he said he wasn't in a hurry to redeem it either.
So, the bill of sale was signed. We pushed it into his driveway for now because it can't sit on the street without a plate and he obviously isn't gonna give me the plate and since he is going out of town I figured his driveway would be free for a few days for me to get it running or tow it out and he was kind enough to agree.
anyway, pics or it didn't happen rite?
Last edited by forbiddenera; 05-10-2018 at 09:25 PM.
So, as far as "build" goes, I still have to make a plan for 'er.
Off the top of my head, I think I'll fix 'er up to drive on the street and once she is ready the rally hatch will get pulled off and torn apart for race prep.
First step, we have to get it running. The master fuse was blown but still wouldn't start with a new one, it turned over of course tho..
So, I figure the fuel is gross (we have e10 here everywhere and it was stored without a fuel stabiliser).. there is about 1/2 a tank I'll have to drain.
Got new NGK wires I gotta pick up from parts store for her, I got them for my hatch (same motor) but the hatch is going COP in the next few weeks once my Xtra board comes in from the HondaRulez guy.
Oil looked good, didn't check coolant or anything. Will go back tomorrow and try and get it started with some new gas and such.
Honestly I don't know! I was wondering that myself. We do have salt and **** here and long winters, cars can get pretty bad, if you see my rally hatch build thread then you'll see how bad my civics quarters and rockers are. But it is kind of a wierd pattern, usually it's edges and stuff. But other than the door, the rest of the rust is minor. I'm sure I can find a teal DA door but who knows.
I didn't notice, but I'm assuming all the GS-R's have power windows and locks..? Or is DA too old..?
It's actually a DB2 vin. Both of my other b17a1 motors were from 92's and start with #17*, 170024 and 170484..this one starts with 27..
My 93 service manual only shows 27* engines. #24 came with an ecu that was stock chipped from honda making me think they hadn't finalized the tune by the 24th off the line but did by #484. Funny that only 2000 or so of these cars were built when I just watched that video today with the new CTR - one every 60 some-odd seconds and 775 a day? Hard to imagine any variation with the ECUs with cars only 450 apart on the line but I guess they must have been built MUCH slower.
This is one of the few DA GSRs I've seen with my own eyes. Actually one of two, a kid I knew in highschool's uncle had one (also teal) and this one.
Definitely in for this one. This is one of my favorite cars and it looks to be aztec green pearl. I remember when i was in junior highschool, my neighbor was just into college and he had one of these and i thought it was the coolest car on the planet lol. You got some work ahead of you, but it should be fun!
Definitely in for this one. This is one of my favorite cars and it looks to be aztec green pearl. I remember when i was in junior highschool, my neighbor was just into college and he had one of these and i thought it was the coolest car on the planet lol. You got some work ahead of you, but it should be fun!
Yeah, the aforementioned persons uncle was actually my neighbor so his car was parked in our condo lot. I didn't know **** about Honda's back then I admit but I remember thinking it was sick & that it looked a fuckload better than the Integra's with the 4 bug eye lights, I'd never seem an ITR or even knew which was the newer gen. I'm about 95% sure it was a GS-R but I was a car noob then.
Nowadays I run an automotive company (remote starters, stereos, aftermarket accessories, tuning and performance in particular specializing in B-series Honda's) and definitely know what a GS-R is.
I honestly don't think the work will be much for this one. I could be wrong but from what I have seen, she has been immaculately kept. The only issue I see is the rust and it is super minor compared to my Civic which has to be repaired..although I was gonna go look at another EG Hatch this weekend's that might be dirt cheap and has less rust than mine but..I wasn't expecting this to fall in my lap in the meantime. I can squeeze one more car here, for now, so maybe that's not the best idea but we shall see. I believe it's an auto with power steering and airbags which is not ideal at all for the type of racing I want to do (adjustable steering wheel not allowed I believe), my hatch was super basic for a reason, rear wiper is the only option it has, oh and rear deck lid.. haha. I could swap racks if it's good enough, I'd be swapping the rest if it was. Dunno tho will see. Some decisions ahead..but back to the Integra..
Which also has some decisions to be made. It's tough. I'm one of those that can't leave well enough alone. The SuperStreet article talking about the clean GS-R, shat the author said about himself, sounds exactly like me..
There weren't a large number of '92 or '93 GS-R Integras produced originally. In fact, figures are estimated at less than 5,000 units for both the U.S. and Canada. They still pop up on Craigslist and Autotrader from time to time, but as the years pass, the "pickens" have become quite slim. You'd be hard pressed to find one that hasn't been modified or slapped with the dreaded salvage title like a scarlet letter due to theft or damage, and because they were so reliable and comfortable, mileage is rarely under 200K on the used market. The car pictured is truly a rare beast in that it carries the cliche "cleaner than the day it rolled off the factory line" appearance and even has its original documentation. For a Honda enthusiast, it's like owning a piece of history. For a nut job like myself, it would be the equivalent to holding a piece of raw meat in front of a hungry lion. Listen, I have a problem with leaving well enough alone. I admit it, I'm not proud of it, so let's move on.
If I were to purchase this vehicle, it would remain in this form for exactly one week - just enough time to get a set of coilovers and a rear sway bar delivered and installed. The showroom fresh 14in alloys would be stacked in the corner of my garage, making way for slightly larger and wider wheels and tires. That meticulously maintained engine bay? Well, its heart would be ripped out, completely disregarding the painstaking detailing process that probably included Q-tips and contorting other cleaning devices into all types of quirky shapes to free grime and corrosion from every nook and cranny. The engine's block and head would be split, perhaps for the first time in its life, and a built bottom end would be on the agenda. Though Honda intended for that B17 to scream savagely to redline in all of its naturally aspirated glory, I'd be willing to look right the other way as I shopped for turbo that was neither too big or too small. That old school A/C with the "good air" would be removed as well as the cruise control module and that jittery unrefined ABS along with it.
One of the things I love most about my Civic is how easy it is to work on because there is nothing in the bay, no a/c, no ABS, no cruise, no stock intake boxes, no dashpot, newer t/b with built in map, (civic has better battery location imho), etc it's quite accessible just a good ol turbo and the motor, and really I still wanna clean that bay a lot...
I think I will do the rust very quickly. It isn't too TOO hard to find a DA door, I may go that route. I'd like to get JDM one piece LIGHTS, the guy who sold me my current suspension for the Civic is apparently hoarding them, he admitted to having like 7 pairs..had one pair for sale locally for 350 but said he prob won't sell cuz he can get "doubt on eBay" .. He also has GS-R...though he was like WTF about my find and wanted to buy it off me already..haha..I told him $10k..
I mean once the rust is fixed and it gets a good wash and once over - it'll be a perfect minty-clean relatively low mileage (185 megameters is actually ~115,000 miles, my previous guess on conversion was wrong).. The interior is mint. Engine is dusty, few rusty brackets but mint. Completely stock except for (imho ugly) wheels..although he probably bought those wheels in like 95 or something.
I can't sleep, I need to, I wanna go work on it already and bring her home. Damn it. Stupid FB woke me up , girlfriend was scrolling FB in bed and a video auto-played, at full blast, with the phone beside my head, three times in a row. I had pretty much just fallen asleep too after drooling all night.
Will be going down with the b17 hatch and it's ecu with Demon and my laptop. Stock ECU will be disconnected (for now) and mine hooked up. Will then drain some/all fuel into a can and fill with fresh 94 octane. The oil looks like it was changed recently, I'd guess he had it serviced and then wasn't really driving it. I asked for spare keys, manual, service records and anything else, will see what he says, I didn't see the manual in the glove box. He didn't even know where he filled it last or what brand of fuel so I'm also a bit concerned he wasn't running 91+, I actually didn't even realize the b17a1 requires that until I noticed it in the service manual last night. Funny, I put together another b17a1 and have yet another on a stand right now and I didn't know that, I mean I run 94 in my Hatch because it's Turbo but..I regret now going to 87 when I was between turbo's, I would have retarded my tune for sure..fortunately it's stock so the knock sensor should be intact and functional.
Oh and yay I get another p61 to play with. Needed that!
So I went today to try and get 'er running. Thought I would drain the fuel and refill.
I vented the gas tank. Tried to turn it over once just for ***** n giggles and she fired in under 1/4 sec.
Let 'er waem up, took 'er around the block and did a lil burn out..she runs good. Alignment is good. Suspension feels good. Steering feels good. Everything works - power locks, power windows, power sunroof, air conditioning, all lights worked that I checked (didn't have someone to press the brakes) including interior lights. Radio turned on but I didn't know how to properly enter the code (stock). He's gonna look for the security remote for me too.
From what I can tell the *only* issue with the car is the rust. Just, wow. I'm so luckyyy.
Ones of the first orders of business is going to be to install a CompuStar alarm in the car.
I will do a similar install as my EG, same brain and such unless the new sensor for MT on DC3 is available to me yet. Back up battery. 2way remote, remote start, digital accelerometer based shock/tilt/motion sensor, I also plan on adding a proximity sensor to both cars.
since the Integra has power windows, it will be setup to roll up the windows and close the sunroof if the proximity is triggered, this allows me to park it with the windows down and roof open and if anyone sticks their hand in it closes.
also will be able to trigger the sunroof and windows separately. Defrost will kick in under a certain temp, I can prob do a/c over a certain temp, turbo timer function although I'll prob only set it to 30sec or something since it's n/a (for now..hehe)..
I will wire up solenoids to open the hatch, the fuel door, maybe the hood and I might consider having the doors open electronically too.
gotta fix the rust in the door. Might swap the door for a junkyard one. Might just shave it down and fix it.
Will need to get a stereo.. I have an alpine deck I was gonna use for the sedan along with subs and my old kickers but..if I really do daily it and make the hatch full race, I'll swap my system out of there. Too bad I just drilled my door panels for the new component hertz I got. Dunno if I'd wanna drill the gsr panels tho the interior is soo nice.
Stopped by and started it last night. Fired right up.
Gotta move the sedan over to fit it here, but my hatch rear LCA shock mount bolts were seized and I had to steal the whole rear lca and shock from the sedan to make it drivable for a bit..so gotta figure that out, heh.
In for this build. I'm willing to bet that the rust happened by cars driving by splashing snow, salt and water on the door while it was parked. Go to a junkyard, grab a DA door, strip the door down, drop off at a paint shop to have it paint matched, swap all the guts over and boom! You have a rust free door. Also, more pictures please.
In for this build. I'm willing to bet that the rust happened by cars driving by splashing snow, salt and water on the door while it was parked. Go to a junkyard, grab a DA door, strip the door down, drop off at a paint shop to have it paint matched, swap all the guts over and boom! You have a rust free door. Also, more pictures please.
you're prob right. Where it sat, drivers door was faced to street.
Guys at the shop I partner with do paint. Thinking of grinding the rust down and fixing it, keeps the car original but will see..?
Picked up a battery from pick pullpull today for it, doesn't look too old. Really, whatever I'm driving daily will have my brand new battery but it's good to have a charged batt for all.
she's still not home I still have to make room which involves swapping some shocks and control arms to move my eg sedan lol
Honestly, who cares about keeping a panel original when half of the door needed new metal welded in. It is not worth the headache and the rust will come back once it is in that state. There are lots of integra's in Alberta junk yards. It will save you a lot of time and headache but whichever you choose I wish you all the best.
Congratulations on acquiring a DB GS-R! Welcome to a very exclusive club, haha. I've had my GS-R for 19 years and have nothing but praise for these cars. In the near future I want to get mine back onto the track for HPDE's but before that happens I need to completely overhaul the suspension.
Will definitely be following along with your progress.
Hey guys. I've been absent from here for a bit. Just been busy, really.
I was still dailying my Turbo B17A1 EG and decided to finish my 4x114.3 swap on the rear especially since I got some nice ra-1s cheap.
Bolt broke in frame. GS-R was just begging to get registered. So started dailying Sir Integra (No, my car is not make named even though it sounds like it..see Hellsing anime.. )
We are about 7000k in on mostly 94 Octane from Petro and on the first oil change. Now on M1 synthetic with M1 filter.
The passenger side axle is done. Boot ripped, clicking and clacking. Any time now. I have an extra, hoping it's OK. I /may/ order new axles here right away.
Last few days I've been experiencing clutch problems. Drove out of town for a job, was fine until almost home when it started engaging really close to the floor, almost like a hydro w/air in the line and also chattering on engagement esp when pulling out in 1st. Adjusted clutch cable little bits for about 30 min with varying results. Then rev'd it up to about 4k with the clutch in, in 1st, back to neutral and released. After that, she wouldn't even shift into gear.
Next day, I find an Exedy billet 8.5lb flywheel from another local Honda enthusiast. I started up the GS-R for him and noticed the clutch felt better when starting- and it went into gear. Some more adjusting and I was able to drive, somewhat. Still chattery. Been driving last few days and it's gotten better, still some shitty feeling engagement and chattering in first but not always and a bit better. After a high rpm shift on my way to Honda for MTF, the clutch suddenly felt slightly less stiff but shifted better.
I can't decide if it's clutch cable or release bearing. The rpm related stuff definitely seems maybe bearing.
Now, I've read a lot of crap online but for the release bearing it seems like 90-91 is one type (cable, small shaft), 92-93 is another (cable, large shaft) and 94+ a third (hydro, large shaft)
Honda has no bearings. Or clutch cables.
I am seriously considering replacing the transmission. Not because anything is wrong with the YS1, but because I have a line on a 15k-old rebuilt (by Acura) S4C with a brand new OEM LSD and LS 5th. The 15k on it was daily by another enthusiast who worked at Acura.
It is hydro, I do worry about the pedal ratio difference using a conversion adapter. I may put the s4c in a cable case, I have a spare one (92 y1 I believe).
The price is great, and the trans is not for sale otherwise he only offered to me.. if i do, the flywheel is going in with ARP pp bolts and dlywheel bolts and a new clutch. Need to decide what to order, don't wanna pay more than like 300-500 Canadian. I really want LSD. And the LS 5th would be nice. 4500rpm at 120km/h sucks. And we do have highways in Canada with 120km/h.
Already got the flywheel cleaned up. Cost more than my ACT because it was billet. Either the ACT isn't or they didn't notice, but they said unlikely as billet is way harder to cut thru and they would def notice so...
Also have a S2 intake manifold and t/b
I'll prob put on.
Took the music maker out of the EG. It's supposed to be a racecar anyway. Still gotta take the front speakers, but, I have to make custom tweeter pods. Can't mount them in the door where I did in the EG, vents.
Installed an alarm/remote start combo. Well, the top of the line install that we do (for those that don't know. I own/operate IdealSound and Performance, we do installs and tuning)
Still gotta finish a few features. It's a Compustar MaxIT 7000-AS w/BLADE-TB. The blade is so I can program the system from my tablet, not that I need a bypass, obviously. Digital motion/shock sensor as secondary analog sensor, radar/proximity sensor, multiple sirens, window control modules for both windows and sunroof. Adding a solenoid for trunk release. Also have CompuStar Drone smartphone control w/GPS tracking.
Alarm has extra security measures. Some are secret. Car won't start w/out the alarm hooked up. Siren goes off when it is unhooked. Siren triggers if starter is triggered when armed. Brain is hidden. Has backup batteries.
I haven't 100% decided on functionality but I'll probably have a switch to enable/disable window roll-up on alarm arm, so I can just wall away and it will auto-arm (passive arming) and roll up the windows and close the sunroof. I can also disable that so I can park with the windows down. Why? Because I have a proximity sensor. It will trigger window roll up if someone sticks their hand in the window, along with alarm goes off.
It will auto lock the doors when I drive away and reach 2000rpm. I can lock, unlock and start from my smartphone, tablet or computer as well as GPS track. I will also get notified of any triggers. I can see the temperature inside my car. I can set it to auto start at a certain time or temperature. Trigger defrost at a certain temperature.
I may also add an ultrasonic glass break sensor. I'm also considering adding the CompuStar proximity locking system, so it will unlock as I walk up. But I am also considering making my own system and also use the rfid for an immobilizer and install a push start button. Said custom system could also use my tablet via Bluetooth (and my fingerprint on it) to authorize unlock/start.
I am considering throwimg my spare Demon in the car. I'm not using my EG ecu so I could use that. I don't want to touch this p61, I want to keep one virgin. The other is chipped, the third my soldering iron ruined. Ok, it was my idiot idea to use my butane one for circuit board work.
She occasionally feels slow-ish, shouldn't be octane related, I always run 94. I'd have to datalog to really see why, but, then I wouldn't be running the stock ECU. Well I guess I could datalog the stock but that is a PITA and I don't know if you get much data.
Haven't checked plugs yet. Will replace tomorrow likely with the same ones I use in the civic, ngk racing. Wires look ok, but I may replace, they do wear out. Haven't checked rotor or cap but prob fine, this car was mostly very well maintained.
Will be flushing brakes with red line 600° fluid.
She did overheat a tiny bit one day in stop go. Which is IPods, hasn't happened since and I've been in hotter more stop and go than that so..dunno?
Brakes feel great. Will inspect them. Considering deleting ABS. Almost crashed going to pick up my flywheel, doing the limit, when a car cut in front of me and I braked hard and ABS went on. Also doesn't give me any room for intake.
I found the rare original Acura optional sunroof visor in good shape at the yard. It sat there for 3 weeks. 10 bux. Score.
I am still hesitant on modding the car. I want to do it carefully, respectfully, thoughtfullyand tastefully. I want to improve on what's there, add a few things to make it what it could have been, like LSD, these cars should have had LSDs, Bit more power (likely small turbo, more for flat torque than flashy or big power). I'd love a full hydro clutch but I don't want to cut the vent dust or anything. I may keep the cable and swap cases with the s4c. New clutch. I want to do suspension too, slight drop, not much, definitely not slammed. Body work.
I plan to drive this car for a long *** time. Wanna make it GREAT AGAIN. (F* trump)
3 amps (monoblock, 4ch, 5ch), 3 subs, 2500w inverter w/wire running to pass. Seat w/power bar. Could prob only get maybe 800w peak out of it with current wiring. Still gotta big3.
My friend was here rrom out of town and wanted me to do up her JDM 2000 Toyota Crown Athlete G (1JZ-GE) with an alarm/remote start and new stereo (head unit, amp, speakers, sub). Wiring was a bitch witj no diagrams but I got everything working..including remote start from remote or smartphone (no immo on this non-turbo version), door locks and arming from remote smartphone (wierd rare old toyota lexus door lock detextion system requiring wiring INTO the drivers door with a relay in the door), disarm and arm from the factory key when used in the dricer door cylinder (but not when using the buttons on the driver door), fuel door opening from remote or smartphone, and much more. Did a carplay deck and she loves it.
I also took the opportunity to get new speakers ans got a set of Hertz Energy 3-way components for the front. Yes, 3-way *component* - NOT co-axial. So, up front I will have 3 separate speakers on each side - tweeter, mid, wooder. I also got the "L"/"LOW" version who's woofers are capable of a bit more bass than the non-"LOW" ones.
I will be making custom fibreglass mounts for the tweeters in the A-pillars. I will make custom fibreglass box/kick panel style enclosures for the 4" mids that will shape to the door panel above where the stock speaker mounts. The 6.5" will go in the stock hole, but likely spaced out with a custom ring. I may also try and enclose the woofers in the door with fibreglass butnthat could be a bit challenging.
I did want to add an 8" to my system, we got one for the Crown because some came with an 8", hers didn't so we returned it. At my warehouse a dew days later, I thought I saw the same 8 in the warranty pile, to which I said wtf, I didnt even open it, it shouldnt be sitting in the wareanty pile. Guy said it was the one I brought back. I went and looked and was lile "no way i brougjt it back new with manual and stuff this one is obviously not.." .. the guys at my warehouse joke around a lot so I wasnt sure if he was just messing around. Then he says - do you want it? Only one coil is blown (dvc woofer).. so i say sure.. he says bring me lunch. I say OK and walk out smiling with what I thought was an 8", albeit yes, with only one coil so half power - would've been fine for what I wanted to do with it (mount in rear deck to handle like 60-125 hz or maybe 80-140 or 60-140, somewherr around there...)
Then I get it home, look at it again, measure it on my meter..and realize..****. It is a 10"! And it indeed was one I brought back like 2 months ago for warranty because my customer somehow blew one coil (and they were nice enough to warranty it still, although they prob wouldnt have if both coils were out).. So now I have an extra 10", rated ar 250w RMS over 2 coils so 125w-140w RMS would be the max it could do. Now, I already (personally) have 2 10" JL 10W1 (300w*2) and Kicker Comp 10" (150w I believe, from a big dual box with a huge port - basically a FAS but in a sealed box, from the client who bought the hertz and blew one, needed them because one of the two kickers was seized but still had good coil, lol) in the GS-R with a 10" Rockford P1 in stock box. Oh, and that other kicker with the seizing/rubbing issue which doesnt stop it from working.
I'm wondering if I should maybe try and disaasemble the hertz and rebuild it with better coil or something. Its not quite at the level of being made to be rebuilt, butnthat also doesnt mean it's not possible. If I did, I'd try to oncrease the power handling and decrease the impedence. I think I am going to havr to buy that driver measurement tool I was looking at.
So besides all that and getting new speakers. I also bought a few other parts. I was having problems with my clutch, which got to the point where it wouldnt shift, then went away (prob cable issue, i adjusted and got better/worse, but at first i wasnt sure if it was cable or bearing)
So i bought an billet Exedy 8.5lb flywheel off a local Honda guy. Had it resurfaced. Cost more than my Civic's ACT one, so either that one isnt billet or they missed thst it was last time which they say was unlikely.
The Honda guy quickly saw how passionate I was, found out I was wanting an LSD transmission and offered to sell me a part he wasn't planning on selling - a recently rebuilt (15k ago @ Acura) S4C transmission (hydro but same ratios as my YS1 in the GS-R) with a brand new OEM LSD installed at the same time along with new 2nd and 3rd syncros and longer LS 5th (which is something I also wanted)
I need to decide now whether to do a full hydro conversion, change the pedals, use a cable-to-hydro adapter (and which one), swap the cable case onto the s4c.. my gsr is #s matching and all, the hydro trans does have a full vin# while the older cable just has the standard serial #. Technically, I beleive swapping the s4c into the ys1 case would pretty much be equivalent to,a full rebuild of the ys1 thus keeping it matching. Then I could swap my ys1 guts into the s4c case and essentially have another stock s4c (same ratios)
That aside, I also picked up a small Mitsubishi (not sure exaxtly which, prob like t25 or t28 size) prob an ebay knock off guessing by the cast but, w/e) with a damn small manifold that should make it fit in the GS-R with mimimal modifications. I may or may not still get a traction bar. Def leaning towards it but also like to keep this car stock.
Need a new AGP driver door and wing/maybe hatch. Rust makes me wanna cry.
Need to decide on a clutch and order one. Need to decide on transmission actuation method too.
Need to order intake piping and intercooler. I wanna keep this car very stock looking/sleepy and mostly stock period as well as easy to put back to stock, so I might go with a side mount instead of a fmic.
Cant wait to boost her now. But I am not planning on rushing this one or doing it as cheaply, I am going save, get parts, wait, do it right. The Civic is more of a beater rally budget racer, lol.the teg I wanna make nice.
Someone took a left turn and hit thr GS-R. Shes mostly OK. Fog kight is done. Hood tiny dent, bumper tiny dent, trying to decide what to do.
replaced most of the exterior lights with LED. Except licence plate and fogs. The led headlights I got from the company whomsupplies my business. They are OK, couldmbe better. My lock rings dont fit around the fan on them. Dunno if i wanna modify the rings. Got a fkasher instead ofnusing resistors on the signals. Now I wanna do my interior and dash. Did an led for the overheard so far butnthats it
still finishing up my alarm and stuff..will be a sick alarm..already is sick..will do a demo vidnwhen done.
swapped my extra kicker for a rockford in a vented. Much deeper and louder whilemstill retaining the punchiness from the two JLs in the sealed
gotta still decide whether i wanna swap cases on the trans or convert to hydro..
got 3way hertz speakers for front of car, have to makemmounts for the mids and tweeters still. I wanna sound treat the car too.
05-09-2018, 06:18 PM
93 Integra GS-R DB2 #270040 Build Thread
)
