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My Teg wouldn't start yesterday trying to leave the store. It almost started but wouldn't. I continued to try more, and it sounded as it was running out of gas...trying to start. Then after a couple more times, it sounded like no gas, no fire...at all. The fuel pump is running and I checked its fuse. My next step is to check the clutch pedal lock switch.
I'm wondering tho, can the filter inside the gas tank clog and keep it from getting gas?
Ok, I realized the only way the engine CAN turn over is if both the starter interlock and clutch interlock work. Otherwise the engine wouldn't turn over at all.
I think next I have to look the fuel pressure regulator? It seemed like it was running out of gas when I tried to start it, so I don't think it's spark, tho that'd be next I guess. I have no idea how to test the regulator. I can look in the books and try and figure it out.
From reading, it seems a poor fuel regulator will only make the run rich or lean, but not keep it from starting? Not sure, but I guess the next thing to check is spark. I don't have anybody to hold the clutch and turn the key, so I guess I'll have to pull the coil out and see if it ohms out correctly?
I did replace the master relay 4-5 years ago. Will that let the starter turn over and keep the car from starting? I was 400 miles from home so I bought a beck-arney replacement. Don't know how good it was.
I've got the beck/arney master relay out, and the car turns over as normal. It could be this relay. I think maybe I should buy another beck/arney (cheaper than OEM), and I'd know if that's the problem. The back/arney lasted 4-5 years so I could get the oem at my leisure....or in the next 2-3 months, if that's the fix.
I ordered the master relay from napa, still 59 bucks. The azone had one for 53. A duralast, but I don't trust azone for nothing besides maybe windshield wiper blades.
The less than oem relays are covered on the back...can't get in them. I saved my oem relay having read you can resolder them, but no tellin' where it is. I may look for it.
Gee I found the testing procedure for the main relay. I wish I'd thought of that before I ordered one.
1. remove.....
2. Attach battery positive voltage to the No.4 terminal and battery negative voltage to the No.8 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay. Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and the No.7 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay.
a. If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach battery positive voltage to the No.5 terminal and battery negative voltage to the No.2 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No.1 terminal and No.3 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay.
a. If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach battery positive voltage to the No.3 terminal and battery negative voltage to the No.8 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No.5 and the No.7 terminal of the Fuel Pump Main Relay.
a. If there is continuity, the relay is GOOD.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
No, that didn't solve it, but I think I'm going to have to test it to make sure it didn't come bad. It's an Echlin a napa brand, should be good but you never know.
Next, I think I'll pull the coil and ohm it. I have no way to check the spark....by myself that I know of.
I'll see if the ignitors can be tested...
I do have an under hood button start I made for my F150, easy on that truck. Pulling the coil and igniters on the Teg is probably easier on it. I am smelling fuel out of my exhaust pipe now that I'm in my garage.
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Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 05-23-2019 at 06:30 AM.
"On the passenger side of your car, under the dash beneath the glove box, you will find a green cover above the kickpanel that houses a blue connector that has two wires.
All that you need to do is turn the ignition off, and using the piece of wire or paperclip, jump the blue connector so that you connect the two wires together. Basically stick one end of the paperclip or peice of wire into one prong on the connector and stick the other end of the paperclip or wire into the other prong."
I don't find a green cover above the kick plate. Not on my car. I find that a lot. Just the blower motor....to the right is the timing bypass plug, under a black cover.
Is it inside the kick plate?
Otherwise I'm not getting any flashing light in the little glass hole, just 6 beeps. 8 the first time, but then just six after I closed the trunk and closed the door.
Where's the jumper described in the sticky?
Is this correct?
"With the test jumper out--
CEL should come on then go out when you turn the key on but don't crank."
I didn't see any light thru the little site glass.
Found this on 'team integra'
"Pulling the codes on our 90/91 tegs is pretty easy!
Now to get the codes there aren't any connectors to cross or anything like that you just have to pull up the carpet on the passenger side (you may, actually you will most likely will have to remove the kick panel as well to get the carpet up)."
...but still...Is this correct?
"With the test jumper out--
CEL should come on then go out when you turn the key on but don't crank."
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Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 05-23-2019 at 10:37 AM.
Apparently the 90 and 91 do NOT have the connector to short, you just turn the key on.....
I had to pull the kick plate to see the light, but it comes on very quickly when you turn the key on, and once again when you turn the key off. No codes in between. I think the ecu is fine....and the issue is not creating codes.
Next I pull the coil and igniter, and test them.
I'll keep posting this.....saga, even without input. Maybe it'll help somebody someday.
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I bought this coil, a bosch, right after I got the car in 2011 or 12. I've never seen anything like this. I have tho, never had a coil that went inside the distributor before. New to me.
You can see the pieces inside the cap and the prong it connected to, at the top.
Problem solved. You know in the old days before all the computers....etc, the coil would've been one of the first things I checked, but then again....they were attached in the engine bay near the distributor.
Anybody ever see one burn like this, or have an idea why....
.
none of it lasts forever. figure 5 years on average.
icm should last a bit longer. currently running airtex icm 6H1001 .
seems decent so far and is a rockauto favorite <3.
It was 8 years ago, and in the photo it looks like it says TEC on the top....maybe I changed my mind at the last minute. I thought I'd put Bosch in it. Or I suppose it's possible the store was out of the Bosch and gave me this one and I didn't feel like waiting.
Either way, I'm trying an NGK this time.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; 05-25-2019 at 06:02 AM.
05-22-2019, 09:33 AM
'90 Teg LS won't start. Fuel pump runs.
Re: '90 Teg LS won't start. Fuel pump runs.
Re:Solved '90 Teg LS won't start. Fuel pump runs.
