GaryTuesday

Hi, I have been working on my 1999 integra gsr for awhile now and am running into quite a few problems. I really need some advice on possible solutions and/or what to do next.

The biggest issue is my car is running weird after I attempted to replace valve seals head on myself in my garage. I finished the job and put everything back together but now the car shakes slightly during idle. It sounds slightly more muffled and doesn't start right up like it used to. At cold it idles at 1000rpm which is high but when it warms up it brings the idle down to sub 600rpm and it feels really weak. The exhaust now has a random low pitched pop, almost like a putter. I fear i forgot something during the repair.

My crankshaft pulley does not have TDC marks on it and i had to judge TDC by using a stick to see the #1 piston go up to the highest point. I was wondering if maybe piston #1 was at the top of the exhaust stroke and piston #4 was at at the top of the compression stroke that could be causing it, but im pretty sure thats determined by the camshafts being at TDC. I used 5mm allen keys to hold my camshafts at TDC when reinstalling my timing belt, i slipped on the exhaust cam first and than intake, cranked clockwise ever so slightly and than tensioned it down. I have adjustable cams btw but i havn't messed with them at all. I read i should have cranked it around a few times before I tensioned it.


Also my #3 spark is burnt, I have new plugs on the way but could this be the issue? i used the same plugs before the job and it was fine for the time being.

The first time I turned it over after the repair i smelt burning rubber, however I believe it might have been mobil 1 full synthetic that fell on my exhaust pipes getting burnt up. Also it shot a good amount of oil out the tailpipe, but hasn't after than with the new seals.

I performed a valve adjustment and had to tighten all 16 of my valves, i tightened my intakes to .006 and my exhausts to .007 but that didn't fix the lumpy idle.

I did drive around a bit to see if it just needed to be broken in after a repair but now theres a new whirring sound relative to engine speed that sounds like a tight timing belt. like a low pitched buzzing. Its possible i overtightened my belt, I couldn't fit my torque wrench onto the tensioner so i had to use feel and guess 40ftlbs on the 14mm bolt.

I also believe it could be a vacuum line, if I am driving with my window down right next to a curb or low wall, i can hear a vaccum like wooshing sound reflecting off the wall from what seems to be my front left wheel.


Next there's the smell of fuel in the inside of my car. I've always had this problem and apparently got used to it because it wasn't until i gave my friend a ride today that she told me it smelled like gas. I will probably replace my fuel filter soon, and I found a new gas cap from the junkyard but im not sure if these will fix the smell. What can i do to pinpoint the source of the smell?

Finally I have a CEL P0325 (knock sensor circuit malfunction) which comes on after about 5 minutes of driving. Ive replaced the actual sensor, that was a b*tch, but it did not fix anything. looking at the knock sensor plug theres some insulating wrap that appears peeled off the wire, The red/blue wire still looks intact at the plug however theres exposed metal strands which i believe could be causing the circuit malfunction. I was wondering if it is possible to cut the wire at the plug and ecu and run new 18 gauge primary wire though my firewall and crimp both ends effectively removing the malfunction?

Any help is truly appreciated!

zanklc

id check under your back seat where the fuel pump is to see if thats where the gas smells coming from but for the rest of your problems only one i had that was similar was when i did the valves on my prelude it gave it like a loping idle but all you did was the seals then i dont see why it would change anything

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

you should put your stock crank pulley back

its a harmonic ballancer not just a crank pulley and is kinda good to have unless you want to replace bearings.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

if you think you forgot then take the valve cover off and re check again.

did you adjust the valve lash after doing the valve seals

and how did you remove the springs and old valve seals did you take the head off?

GaryTuesday

I bought the car with it already installed :\

What should i look for in particular?

I did adjust valve lash all 16 valves were loose, following this guide http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...djustment.html

I removed the springs using this tool, and i removed seals with needle nose pliers and a heat gun.

halfakneegrow

Valve adjustment is 7in 8ex. Also use a stock crank pulley.. Did you check the mechanical timing of the car?

GaryTuesday

B18C
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

I adjusted to where the smaller size fits with slight resistance and the larger one doesn't. I would like to get a stock crank pully, how difficult is it to replace? And I checked TDC for the bottom end by visibly setting piston #1 at TDC, and than both cam gears keyed in at TDC for cylinder #1.

halfakneegrow

Well what is it with the timing light? I know that changed since you had to take the distributor off to get the cams out.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

It's probably not timed correctly. There is a timing mark on the timing belt belt drive pulley...so use that for TDC and check that both cams have the alignment marks pointed at each other. Don't entirely rely on the 'UP' marks on the cams. The alignment marks of the gears should should point at each other at TDC. It doesn't take much for cam timing to be off.

Fliptard

did you lap the valves back in?!

GaryTuesday

I haven't tried checking with the timing light yet, I assumed it wouldn't show anything without TDC markers. Ill still do it sometime tomorrow and update what i find. And I used a sharpie to mark where my distributor should be relative to the top left camshaft holder to find my ignition timing, kinda jenkey but id rather do that then be stuck looking at a blank crank pulley.

I used 5mm hex keys to hold both my camshafts at TDC while I installed my belt, but ill still check them tomorrow and see if they're still at TDC.
How should I crank my bottom end to TDC without that timing mark?

805 Integra

I use a stock pulley to time it and line up marks on the bottom and then I put the light weight back on. Just seems like the most accurate way to me. If the valves moved on you while replacing seals and they were no lapped or had valve job you could be leaking compression.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You'd have to remove the crank pulley to look at the TDC mark on the timing belt drive gear/pulley.

The 5mm allen keys keys don't always assure that your cams end up in the right spot. Also...your ruler method doesn't take into account that as you put the belt on,the crank might have moved.

I always check, double check, and triple check the timing marks after I put the belt on and finish loading and tightening the tensioner. I do this rotating the engine counter clockwise thru one full rotation of the cams and checking for TDC. Then I rotate the engine again to make sure the belt is tight. Then rotate it again thru a cycle to check TDC. I do this because its 1000000X better than realizing the timing is off when you put it back together.

I use the two line marks on the cams and the arrow timing mark on the oil pump (lines up with the mark on the t belt gear).

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Shitty advice there bud. Gsr needs a harmonic balancer. You can buy an ati pulley if you really want an aftermarket one

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Shitty advice?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

sorry not you the guy above you that said put the underdrive pulley back on after its done.


the only b series i know that dont have harmonic balancer is b16b. because of its rod/stroke ratio allows it to do without one.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_balancer

Every time the cylinders fire, torque is imparted to the crankshaft. The crankshaft deflects under this torque, which sets up vibrations when the torque is released. At certain engine speeds the torques imparted by the cylinders are in sync with the vibrations in the crankshaft, which results in a phenomenon called resonance. This resonance causes stress beyond what the crankshaft can withstand, resulting in >>>>>crankshaft failure.<<<<<<


Performance enthusiasts have been known to remove harmonic balancers, usually when the balancer is attached to the crank pulley, deciding that they aren't necessary and their mass reduces the performance of the engine. However, this is unproven and potentially very risky because the danger of damage to the engine from the vibrations the damper is intended to prevent is too high

GaryTuesday

Awhile ago my timing belt slipped and I had a shop retime the car for me. Im pretty sure they did not remove my pulley. How were they able to do this?
Also why wouldn't the allen keys guarantee TDC for my camshafts? aren't they locked into place at TDC?
It is a good possibility that my crankshaft moved i didn't really make sure that it didn't happen. However, I still don't know how to set my crank correctly without the OEM pulley. Oh and I did not have my valves lapped, I am pretty sure the head would have to be off and I've done everything head-on.

Okay so this is my pulley. I am pretty sure my timing is off. However from what i've been reading, I need an OEM pulley with timing marks, and harmonic balancing. But I've recently had a shop time my car with the same pulley and everything worked. I don't really have the money to replace a pulley at the moment, so what is my best course of action?

I found this OEM pulley, but honestly the only way im going to get it in there is if I pay a shop.

My question is how did that shop time my car without the OEM pulley???

805 Integra

I did not say it does not make a difference as far as pulleys go, I simply said I myself remove pulley so I can look at the mark on the gear and line up with oil pump mark put bolt aback on does not have to be too tight just enough to be able to turn crank.[I have an impact so its not an issue for me] I then use a pin punch not a 5mm allen wrench to lock cams so not sure how loose they fit because I dont use allens. once on time I remove bolt and place pulley on
NOT TRYING TO BE A SMART *** just sharing my experience with them. As far as twisting crank it would probably lean a lot towards v8s and other cars making 2 times what our stock engines make and their long strokes. It says energy from the piston can transfer to the crank. Stock = small energy assuming timed and tuned properly, no knocking. I AM NOT SAYING that it would not benefit the crank to run stock pulley in the long run and everyone can take their own risk big or small as I have red lined my DD gsr every day literally for about 4 years 1st and 2nd sometimes 3rd on way to work along with in town ricer moments with light weight pulley on the engine . [really dont recommend even if you can rebuild your own engine] I also know people who run them without problems and thats why they dont seem to bad to me. You can call it dump or stupid but its my engine and I know how to rebuild it no I have not blown one up to this day call it luck if you want. But I do keep fresh synthetic oil doing it 3-4 times a year even tho it does not need it along with good plugs and keeping an eye on everything. I have yet to personally see a cracked or damaged crank due to a pulley.. To reiterate again the stock pulley would probably be better on the engines life in the long run but so would staying out of vtec, using stock clutches for the drivetrains life, keeping stock height along with driving and cornering like a grandma for the cars suspension and bushings.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You really need to remove the crank pulley and check the timing mark on the belt gear vs. Oil pump. I know. It sucks. But with your current pulley, that is your situation.

Remove the pulley. You'll see the timing mark on the gear and the oil pump. Turn that to TDC. Your cams will either be facing straight down or straight up (arrows) when the timing mark on the crank gear is at TDC. If they are facing downward, turn the crank counter clockwise one whole more revolution.

With the crank gear at TDC, the line on both the cam gears should line up. Don't use the up marks as an absolute. Don't use the pin locations where you slipped the allen keys in as an absolute. The two lines on the cams have to be lined up when the crank is at TDC. That is how you check timing.

I'm about 100% sure your timing is off.

GaryTuesday

Thank you this is exactly what I needed. I just ordered a OEM b18c1 pulley that i plan on replacing the aftermarket one with.

Should I attempt this myself? it seems like a really daunting task breaking the crank pulley bolt.
Theoretically do i still have to take of my lower cover to check the oil pump mark if I am using the OEM pulley? Will the woodruff key guarantee the OEM timing marks are good with the lower cover?
Also I have adjustable cam gears, should i still line up the white marks on the side exactly?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

The timing mark is on the plastic cover.
Get a crank pulley socket and prop it against car frame
Jack the car up
Use a breaker bar and press down towards the ground
This gives u enough leverage to break it loose
Or find someone with an impact gun

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Set the adjustable gears to 0 before doing this. You can mark your position so you can put them back to where they were after you time the engine. But time it at 0.

The mark on the timing belt pulley is on the face of the pulley. Its slightly left of the woodruff key. There is an arrow on the oil pump that that mark needs to line with. For REFERENCE, the woodruff key will be pointing straight up when the mark is lined. Use that only for reference....to get you in the ball park. Look closely at the timing mark itself. Make 100% sure it's lined up. You should always do this after setting the tensioner and then rotating the crank 720 degrees...or 2 full rotations till all the marks are set to line up (after putting on a belt).

get a repair manual. The explanations are there with pics.

When all your adjustable stuff is set to 0, and the timing mark on the crank gear (not the pulley...the timing gear) is lined up with the mark on the oil pump, the lines on the cams should be pointing directly at each other. That is the only way to properly time this engine.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

1. Set the cam gears to 0.
2. Set the cam lines to match up
3. Check the crank gear (not the pulley) vs oil pump marks
4. If the crank marks match up, then the engine is timed. If not..continue on.
5. Lock the cams so that the lines mate to each other.
6. Remove the t-belt.
7. Spin the crank so the marks on the gear and oil pump mate
8. Put the belt back on. Make sure ALL your marks mate up still!!!
9. Unlock the cams (take the pins or allen keys out)
10. Release the tensioner.
11. Spin the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE 3 teeth.
11. Lock the tensioner. (Tighten the bolt)
12. Spin the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE till the cam lines mate. This is around 2 crank rotations (1 cam rotation).
13. CHECK THE CRANK. Do the oil pump and crank gear marks mate? If yes...the engine is timed. If no, go back to step 5.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You should use an impact for this since you'll need to undo the crank pulley bolt and then re-zap it on LIGHTLY when the crank pulley is off. This allows you to turn the crank with a 19mm socket and ratchet. Remove the spark plugs before you start. This way the crank turns easily.

Substitute the honda crank pulley tool for the impact if you don't have an iimpact. Impacts help. But don't be an animal with tightening bolts. You uusually need a powerful impact. I have a 1100lb/ft cordless impact. Best money ever spent. I have done a thousand timing jobs and never had to use my crank pulley tool lol...well...except on S2000s because of space constraints.