1998GsRIntegra

So for the transmission guru's out there, or at least the hondatech members that know transmissions pretty well. I know very little about transmissions so maybe you guys/girls could help me. In my dads track crx we have a JDM Integra Type R transmission 4.785 final drive. Its bolted to a gsr block with jdm ctr pistons with a type r head. In general it doesnt shift worth a crap. We figured the synchros had just seen better days so we replaced 3rd, 4th, and 5th with gearspeed carbon coated synchros. We only replaced 3rd-5th because he only uses 1st and 2nd to get going. The car is a road race car for the record not drag racing. So any way after we replaced the synchros it still shifted like total $hit. The gears are not missing any teeth, nor do they have excessive wear. We are using the hasport hydro to cable conversion kit on it but I doubt that would effect how the car shifts. The only thing I can think of would be to try using synchromesh trans fluid and see if that would do anything. But i figured before we went out and bought some that I would get a couple more opinions. For reference by high rpm i mean 9500. going from 2nd to 3rd doesnt go, 3rd to 4th is impossible and 4th to 5th is not good either. Downshifting is also impossible, all it does is grind. Th car also has a pretty new(less than 800 miles) act 6 puck clutch disc and pressure plate, so i'm reasonably certain the clutch has nothing to do with it. Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks guys/girls.

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Synchromesh is good stuff if you decide to get some. Make sure get the friction modified stuff as its the one you'll want. It cleared up my bad 3rd gear grind. What trans fluid are you using right now?

Dave_Dc2

man theres so many steps at this point, how many quarts of fluid did u put to start out with..should be 2.3-2.7ish quarts..if you did then it has to be either a clutch situation, or worse, the gear selectors were installed impropperly.

1998GsRIntegra

As far as I know gm no longer makes the friction modified fluid. currently using honda mtf. im running regular synchromesh in my street gsr and love it. shifts like butter.

1998GsRIntegra

2.5 quarts of honda mtf. its been going on for a while and im sick of guessing whats wrong with it so thats why i figured id post on here. and could you go into a little bit of depth about the gear selectors being installed improperly? would that cause it to not want to shift at all at high rpm?

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

It isn't, but sometimes you can still find it at dealerships. I struck out on it last time I looked, but a buddy of mine was able to find some not to long ago. I just put in the pennsoil synchromesh, and so far so good.

H2BInspiredDC2

I personally think the Amsoil Synchromesh is by far better than the GM, Royal Purple, or Redline fluids. Honda MTF + a grinding transmission = forget about it. I use the Amsoil fluid in my GSR hydro tranny and it seemed to relieve the 2nd gear notch I was getting before. It didn't grind but it felt crunchy going into gear. After 500 miles on the new Amsoil fluid, no more notch at all.

1998GsRIntegra

At this current point im going to either put amsoil synchromesh in or gm synchromesh in to see if it makes any kind of a difference. If that has no effect on it what so ever then I am just going to rebuild the entire thing over the winter. Thanks for the input guys.

DOHc SIdE

heres your problem . your quote (act 6 puck clutch disc and pressure plate, so i'm reasonably certain the clutch has nothing to do with it.) ACT is junk more than likely the pressure plate is the problem

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I doubt that fluid is going to fix your issue if you're already using Honda MTF. Did you check for bent shift forks inside the trans? Are you certain everything got put back correctly? Is the clutch disengaging properly? Maybe your slave cylinder is bad or maybe the clutch cable is stretched? Have you tried adjusting your clutch engagement point?

Forget the fluid for now.

bakomack

it couuld be your presssure plate. but I presonally think its your slider hubs from shifting so hard

1998GsRIntegra

Hmmm interesting I have always been under the impression that ACT was pretty decent stuff. ok I'll switch it out for something else. Do you have any reccomendations on a clutch and pressure plate company? BTW your not far from me. I'm in bowie. just a trip through the harbor tunnel.

1998GsRIntegra

I dont think fluid will do anything either but i only have a week or so before the last race and I dont have the time or motivation to pull the trans. I just replaced the rear beam along with a whole lot of other things and im beat. plus being in high school tends to take up a lot of my time. back to your questions. the shift forks were not bent when I replaced the synchros about a year ago. am I certain everything was put back together correctly? not really. i just put it back together exactly how i took it appart aside from switching the synchros. It was really bad before i changed the synchros and it didnt get much better after I changed them. As far as the clutch disengaging properly uhh well about that. to engage it the clutch pedal has to be to the floor and the clutch doesnt fully disengage until the clutch pedal is completely released. facking hasport *****. i have no idea how to go about adjusting the thing. i bought it used and it didnt exactly come with an owners manual. its the hasport hydro to cable conversion kit. I just replaced the clutch cable about 6 months ago with a new one. if anyone happens to know how to properly adjust the hasport kit please let me know. i made a thread a while ago about it, but didnt come up with much.

1998GsRIntegra

slider hubs? sorry i dont know what they are. can you describe them at all or where they are located? like I said I dont know transmissions really well.i almost wet myself when i took it appart the last time. its scary in there. lol

0speedoptions.ca

Well, theres your problem. The clutch is not fully engaging. Which hasport conversion kit did your get? Hasport makes two types of cable-to-hydraulic conversions.

There is an all-mechanical one (does not use clutch master cylinder, or slave)
and one that keeps the mc.



For the mechanical one, you need to pull up (towards cable end) on the lever until you cannot pull up by hand anymore. After pulling up, you turn the clutch cable adjustment **** until it meets the bracket and is taut. Adjust as needed to loosen up or tighten. I have found that with some heavy duty aftermarket clutches the release bearings will actually have to apply some pressure to the pressure plate to have proper travel. Of course this will wear out the bearing quicker.


The hydraulic version uses a clutch mc and a slave. This one is adjusted similarily by pulling the lever towards your cable (therefore compressing your mc). Again, adjust the clutch cable adjuster until the cable is taut. Don't forget to bleed out any air in your clutch system (as this can also lead to the symptoms you are experiencing).

1998GsRIntegra

Holy Crap Thank you so much. my clutch cable is at the end of the adjustment so that would explain everything. I hope this works for me. And the motor and tranny are in a 1989 honda crx so it never had a mc or slave cylinder. i also believe i have the original kit as i have had it for several years and i bought it used back then. thanks again!

DOHc SIdE

clutchmasters or spec

0speedoptions.ca

Glad I could help, let us know how it goes.

be18see1

Be careful with those conversions. If you use a heavier clutch, the cable will stretch. I have yet to find any sort of heavy duty clutch cable.

1998GsRIntegra

I decided to stop by my older bros house today after school to see if the clutch cable could be tightened at all. He graciously lets me store the car in his 2 car garage. I can't thank him enough for that. On top of that he lets me work on it there as well. The clutch cable was completely at the end of the adjustment limit. I tightened it and I wound up with about 10 threads or so showing above the adjustment **** before i couldnt turn it anymore. So I am really hoping that was the problem. I'll really find out about a week and a couple days from today. That will be when I can get the car out on the track. I think I will also put some synchromesh in as well. Just for the heck of it. Thanks again for that info.

1998GsRIntegra

Yea I know all about that. I've already broken 2. I replaced them with used ones and they also broke; then I said screw it and bought 2 new ones. The current one on the car is a brand new one that was put on about 6 months ago. I also have a brand new spare that I take with me just in case. If you ever happen to come across a company that makes heavy duty clutch cables let me know. I wouldnt mind having a little piece of mind in terms of the added strength.

0speedoptions.ca

Ya I have seen clutch cables stretch with those kits. It seems that the hasport kit puts alot of unessecary stress on the cables. Have you ever thought about converting to full hydraulic? or transferring the tranny case to a full cable case? IMO It's much more reliable than using the hasport conversion kits.

EmminoDaGreat

If the cable doesnt fix the problem, when you replaced the synchro's did you inspect the sleeves/hubs for any damage?

1998GsRIntegra

I thought about full hydraulic but I really dont want to go through the hassle. I know sonem used to make a kit but I was never able to find one when I was considering doing it. If adjusting the clutch and putting GM friction modified synchromesh in it does nothing then my plan was to transfer over everything to a ys1 cable transmission case which I conveinently have already. After I put in new type r gears and synchros and everything else. Then I will be able to use the $900.00 quaife lsd that has been sitting around for the past two years in my shed. But we'll see what happens.

1998GsRIntegra

Yes I did. They appeared to be fine so that is why I have been so stumped as to what the problem was for so long. I am really hoping the clutch being adjusted and the fm synchromesh will do something.