Idle Problems, HELP!
#1
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Idle Problems, HELP!
Since I have gotten my new cams and TB, Crower 404's and bored out stock from Maxbore(64mm), my car has idled crazy, going from 800rpm to 1600 rpm! Before this it idled smooth with my Crower 403's and stock TB! I dont know what is wrong I have adjusted the Throttle cable and i still idles funny and i have aslo tried adjusting the idle screw and nothing changes it! Someone help me out!
#4
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (hybrid_vtec)
Big bore throttle body + cams with a lot of overlap = **** poor vaccum at idle.
Perhaps stick the stock t-body back in and go from there.
Perhaps stick the stock t-body back in and go from there.
#5
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (EE_Chris)
Is there any way to adjust this to make it idle better!
For the record I am also running P-30 Pistons!
For the record I am also running P-30 Pistons!
#6
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (hybrid_vtec)
you can try to seperate the cam gears a little and see if can kill some of the overlap.
Try advancing the intake cam 1 degree, this will get rid of some, if u wanna try more retard the exhaust cam 1 degree. This will give you two degrees of seperation, it may idle alot better, also it will trap in more compression through-out the powerband.
talking w. crower about some 402's on and lsvtec and they said they had alot of luck w/ keeping them 2 degrees seperated, for example, +2,0 +1,-1, or 0,-2 etc.
Try advancing the intake cam 1 degree, this will get rid of some, if u wanna try more retard the exhaust cam 1 degree. This will give you two degrees of seperation, it may idle alot better, also it will trap in more compression through-out the powerband.
talking w. crower about some 402's on and lsvtec and they said they had alot of luck w/ keeping them 2 degrees seperated, for example, +2,0 +1,-1, or 0,-2 etc.
#7
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (Used2beAb16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can try to seperate the cam gears a little and see if can kill some of the overlap.
Try advancing the intake cam 1 degree, this will get rid of some, if u wanna try more retard the exhaust cam 1 degree. This will give you two degrees of seperation, it may idle alot better, also it will trap in more compression through-out the powerband.
talking w. crower about some 402's on and lsvtec and they said they had alot of luck w/ keeping them 2 degrees seperated, for example, +2,0 +1,-1, or 0,-2 etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting! I'll try that, however I dont think that that maybe the problem b/c the idle goes from 800rpm to 1600rprm and back to 800rpm(flucuating), then when it warms up it drops to 500rpm and then shuts off! It also shuts off when driving down the street and you push in the clutch to stop!
Try advancing the intake cam 1 degree, this will get rid of some, if u wanna try more retard the exhaust cam 1 degree. This will give you two degrees of seperation, it may idle alot better, also it will trap in more compression through-out the powerband.
talking w. crower about some 402's on and lsvtec and they said they had alot of luck w/ keeping them 2 degrees seperated, for example, +2,0 +1,-1, or 0,-2 etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting! I'll try that, however I dont think that that maybe the problem b/c the idle goes from 800rpm to 1600rprm and back to 800rpm(flucuating), then when it warms up it drops to 500rpm and then shuts off! It also shuts off when driving down the street and you push in the clutch to stop!
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#9
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (hybrid_vtec)
Lastnight I checked the FITV by letting the car warm up and removing the intake and placing my finger on the hole in the TB and it still had suction, which my manual said it shouldn't! Anyone know anything adout this and how to correct it?
#10
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Yup, had the same problem not too long ago. You'll need to remove the FITV, 4 bolts if im not mistaken. Some coolant is going to **** out after you disconnect the hoses but just let it drip.
There are two different metal caps, both held by 2 screws on opposites ends of the FITV. Remove the larger housing one first (not the flat metal one) and hold a lighter underneath the wax carrier (little metal thing inside that housing) while looking into the hole on the FITV body where it connects to the TB. Ensure that the piston IS moving after heated up, it may take a few seconds of holding the lighter underneath it.
If it moves, you're in luck, you can fix it yourself (even though Honda specifies these are set from the factory and theres no "fix" for them), and if it doesnt move, you'll need a new FITV.
If the piston moves, then re-attach the metal housing with 2 screws and remove the flat metal cover from the opposite end. There will be a small white plastic screw-in holder that limits the piston travel (i.e. this determines how much extra air the FITV is allowed to inhale to increase idle speed at cold idle).
All you need to do is adjust this, in my case, the holder had come completely loose and was not limiting travel whatsoever. Just tighten the holder down until it is snug (I was able to do it with one screwdriver, you might have to use 2 though being that it has a hole in the middle and two notches on the sides to adjust it).
Re-intstall the FITV to the TB and you're set...I'd suggest starting the engine with an open TB (intake not connected) so that you can check that everything is working properly.
Sorry this turned into such a long post, just trying to be descriptive as I don't have any pictures to post. Good luck
There are two different metal caps, both held by 2 screws on opposites ends of the FITV. Remove the larger housing one first (not the flat metal one) and hold a lighter underneath the wax carrier (little metal thing inside that housing) while looking into the hole on the FITV body where it connects to the TB. Ensure that the piston IS moving after heated up, it may take a few seconds of holding the lighter underneath it.
If it moves, you're in luck, you can fix it yourself (even though Honda specifies these are set from the factory and theres no "fix" for them), and if it doesnt move, you'll need a new FITV.
If the piston moves, then re-attach the metal housing with 2 screws and remove the flat metal cover from the opposite end. There will be a small white plastic screw-in holder that limits the piston travel (i.e. this determines how much extra air the FITV is allowed to inhale to increase idle speed at cold idle).
All you need to do is adjust this, in my case, the holder had come completely loose and was not limiting travel whatsoever. Just tighten the holder down until it is snug (I was able to do it with one screwdriver, you might have to use 2 though being that it has a hole in the middle and two notches on the sides to adjust it).
Re-intstall the FITV to the TB and you're set...I'd suggest starting the engine with an open TB (intake not connected) so that you can check that everything is working properly.
Sorry this turned into such a long post, just trying to be descriptive as I don't have any pictures to post. Good luck
#11
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is there any fuel management caused by this? because on my air/fuel guage it keeps going going lean to rich up and down and whenever it does that,, my car idles go crazy... and barely once in a while when the car runs rich.. the idle is perfect.. by the way check my garage for more details about my car.. this tells you what kind of fuel **** i have
#12
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Re: (kihun_cha)
I think I fixed my problem! I removed my FITV this weekend and screwed that white plastic piece back in! It corrected the problem somewhat but the idle was still surging and dropping so I went back through all the troubleshooting steps again and checked my ignition timing! It was out, so I reset my ignition timing to 16 degrees and adjusted the idle screw and all of the sudden my problem was fixed! Now it idles at 550-600rpm!
#14
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Re: (kihun_cha)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kihun_cha »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you reset ignition timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I mean my ignition timing was too far advanced so I got my timing light out and set it back to factory (16 degrees), by turning the distributor!
Well I mean my ignition timing was too far advanced so I got my timing light out and set it back to factory (16 degrees), by turning the distributor!
#16
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Re: (hybrid_vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I fixed my problem! I removed my FITV this weekend and screwed that white plastic piece back in! It corrected the problem somewhat but the idle was still surging and dropping so I went back through all the troubleshooting steps again and checked my ignition timing! It was out, so I reset my ignition timing to 16 degrees and adjusted the idle screw and all of the sudden my problem was fixed! Now it idles at 550-600rpm!</TD></TR></TABLE>`
congrats, i have to check that on my car....mine idles up and down like crazy...
congrats, i have to check that on my car....mine idles up and down like crazy...
#17
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Re: (Milano98teg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Milano98teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">`
congrats, i have to check that on my car....mine idles up and down like crazy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good Luck
I have thread somewhere that lists some good troubleshooting to locate this problem I will post it up Later, when I find it!
congrats, i have to check that on my car....mine idles up and down like crazy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good Luck
I have thread somewhere that lists some good troubleshooting to locate this problem I will post it up Later, when I find it!
#19
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Re: (kihun_cha)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kihun_cha »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you clean IACV with carb cleaner inside?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, you can I did this when I rebuilt my engine!
Yep, you can I did this when I rebuilt my engine!
#24
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Re: Idle Problems, HELP! (hybrid_vtec)
Check your valve clearances, usually with bigger cams the valve lash must be precise or it will fluctuate the idle. This fixed my Toda Spec B idle issue.
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