SIMATIC

whats up guys, i got a 98 accord ex 138k.
few weeks ago my check engine light came on. i reset it then now it came on again. the code is P1457 which i looked up and is a "leak in the EVAP control system". whats that mean? i know i close my gas cap till 3 clicks. any 1 got any ideas??? thanks alot i appriciate it.

honda #1

bill-71SS

have your vent shut valve on the canister under the car checked

SearchBeforeUPost!

It means you have a leak in the emmissions system. You need a special smoke machine to run smoke through the machine and pinpoint the leak.

SIMATIC

ok thanks, i i dissconnected the bAttery n the light came off, gona fill up with engine off n see if comes back..now my radio doesnt work lol code DOESNT WORK.... will mAKE ANOTHER POST FOR IT THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS.!!

m0t0rhead

You probably didn't tighten your gas cap all the way one day..

Or.. the gasket on the inside of the cap is all cracked up.

that will set a code for evap leak.



Modified by Escobar at 9:28 PM 9/15/2004

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIMATIC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok thanks, i i dissconnected the bAttery n the light came off, gona fill up with engine off n see if comes back..now my radio doesnt work lol code DOESNT WORK.... will mAKE ANOTHER POST FOR IT THANKS FOR THE HELP GUYS.!!</TD></TR></TABLE>First, on a '98 you can pull the #13 fuse in the right-side doorjamb to clear the ECU without losing the radio.

P1456 is the code you would get for a loose/bad gas cap.

P1457 is the EVAP canister system, including the popular vent-shut valve underneath the left-rear seat. Check out this thread, I put something towards the bottom...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=748876

danz75

I had that code come on just a few months back and with help and advice from this board, I replaced the evap valve and it solved the problem. as for the radio, there is a serial number imprinted on the top of it. remove the radio, copy the serial number down and call the closest honda dealership and give them the serial number, they should give you the code without any cost. hope it helps you out.

SIMATIC

not my dealership ........45 dollars

philadd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, on a '98 you can pull the #13 fuse in the right-side doorjamb to clear the ECU without losing the radio.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just to add on to this, it's labeled as the "clock" fuse.

digme

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danz75 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had that code come on just a few months back and with help and advice from this board, I replaced the evap valve and it solved the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

which one are you talking about? vent shut valve? solenoid valve?

i just did a test. put a tester at terminal 4 on the 32P connector at the ECM(thanks to Helms for the connector layouts).. NO VOLTAGE when on Ignition II position. HELMS states Terminal 4 at 32P should be +12V(battery voltage) at IgnitionII... does that confirm my suspsion that the vent shut valve is bad, and go ahead replace it or do i need to get that gauge to actually find out if it holds vaccum? is it a good enough test just to check voltage?(i already have that 1457 code)

JimBlake

Yeah, mine was the EVAP canister vent-shut valve.

That doesn't confirm a bad valve. It might still be a broken wire.

I'd try unplugging the wire at the vent-shut valve. Then (key on) see whether one of those wires has battery voltage. If not, check 'upstream' from there for an open circuit (broken wire). If there's voltage, then maybe check for continuity in the other wire leading to A4 at the ECU.

If you don't have a MityVac, try this... Remove the vent-shut valve from the EVAP canister. Make 2 jumpers, & energize the valve directly from the battery. Mine didn't even click. (For grins I took it apart - it was corroded into a lump.) If yours clicks, maybe you can check it by connecting a hose & blowing, sucking, or using a bike pump (gently).

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the vent-shut valve from the EVAP canister. Make 2 jumpers, & energize the valve directly from the battery. Mine didn't even click. (For grins I took it apart - it was corroded into a lump.) If yours clicks, maybe you can check it by connecting a hose & blowing, sucking, or using a bike pump (gently).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the common problem with them, road salt gets in there and destroys them according to Honda. When I get a p1457 I use our Honda scan tool to energize it to see if it clicks before I do anything else.