Mr. Softee

This is brought to you by civicexblackcoupe and 94goldjungsr. It is dedicated to flamenco-t, jonoknut and uberteg!

Parts needed:


This is a rough parts list. I will get more accurate names in about 30 minutes and edit this.

1 Aeromotive FPR. Has 2 inlets and one outlet and one gauge mounting spot.
1 Uberdata Romchip
4 MSD 550CC injectors
1 Gauge. Normal 2 1/16" size.
3 Stainless lines about 1.5' in length. -6AN.
1 45 -06AN fitting
1 180 -06AN fitting
3 straight -06AN hose end fittings
1 -06AN plug if you are only using 1 fuel rail
2 Male Union -6an Fittings for the Fuel rail (not sure what size, ask stan)
2 male Union -6an for the FPR
2 Hose clamps for the return line.

Tools Needed:
1 screwdriver
1 drill
1 rubber mallet
deep/regular sockets/socket wrench
wrenches
needle nose pliers
preferably a 6mm socket and a 1/4" drive socket (this is for the clamps)
Teflon Tape



Directions:

First take off the fuel filter bolt. It is a deep socket 17mm. you will need someone to hold hte fuel filter with their foot or something so it doesnt break the bracket it is on.


Take off the old FPR. Look at this POS!!!


Next take off the return line. Get those needle noses down and dirtay!


Next undo the fuel rail bolts



Next take off the metal square injector clips


Slide the injectors/fuel rail out


Put the fuel filter fitting in


Put the 90 degree swivel on, connect the line, and tighten


Have the fuel rail machined to accept the two fittings.



Test fit the rail/injectors. Dont lose those o rings!


Our rail's holes were too small. So this is one of us drilling it open!


Better pic


Torque that rail to spec! its like 105" / lbs.


Mount the FPR on the back of your firewall. Do this by marking the hole's spots and drilling in with the bit size of your choice.


Screw the screws in!


Mounted regulator, teflon taped poorly end (i improved it i swear!)


Now put the other screw in and hook up the line (provides some support)


Now we didnt take a pic of this but weshould have. But he hardest part is putting the return line on. You have to pull back the steel and put the clamps on the rubber part of the hose. Two clamps will be needed.

Also, we had to hit the brake booster elbow that comes out of the intake manifold with a rubber mallet to rotate it about 45 degrees. This was the only way to clear mounting the gauge.

Connect the vaccum from the old FPR location to the new nipple on the FPR (its on the right side).

Once you have everything in place just connect the lines and tighten!

Dont forget to burn your uberdata 550cc program before you start. Dont worry it will start upt he first time!

Adjust the fuel pressure by loosening the nut on the top and moving the screw's position with an allen key. Tightening one turn raises it like 5psi or so. Make sure you do your FPR setting with the vaccum line off.

Completed Product:


Happy fuelin!

sam





Modified by 94goldjungsr at 12:54 PM 7/30/2003

4-banging

good write up.

one question...if you wanted to mount a fuel pressure gauge, where would you mount it?

DaveF

look at the last pic the guage is on the regulator.

how much hp is a fuel system like this good up to?

Mr. Softee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4-banging &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good write up.

one question...if you wanted to mount a fuel pressure gauge, where would you mount it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

we did mount one its on the front of the FPR.

4-banging

doh, spotted the gauge

Mr. Softee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> look at the last pic the guage is on the regulator.

how much hp is a fuel system like this good up to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well the injectors are going to maxout far before the lines do. We are hoping to make 350whp with no more than 50psi of fuel.

MIKES

Your build up looks good bro. Just one thing tho, you don't need teflon tape for An fittings. They will never leek if tightened properly.

Mr. Softee

Ya we went ahead and did it anyway

ichibanjap

iTrader: (1)

Very nice write up, lovin the pics too. How much did you spend on parts?

gritsak

also..before you mess with any of the fuel fittings you can unscrew the gas cap to let out some of the pressure in the system so not as much fuel comes out.

chidoks

yup..how much did u spend on parts??

HondaGuRu

Nice write up. Good job onlything i would of done differant is getting a JG or Some aftermarket fuel rail. would make it a little easyier. But good job. I have also seen pics of the FPR on the drivers shock tower some people have place them there is that a good Idea?

I have everything for install with those parts with a JG Fuelrail. just to lasy to put it on.

mamaboy

great great write up

SOUNDEFFECTS

good write up

Flamenco-T

Good write up Sam and Bill... I am glad things are looking good.

stan

asterix_2ksi

Curious, what good are braided lines if they don't go all the way back to the pump feed?

If you keep pressures low enough by dropping in injectors slightly larger than what's needed for your hp target you can maintain stock pressures and even run a stock fuel pump up to 320+whp (720cc+). So is it that the stock system hits a limit of flow no matter the pressure on a 300+whp setup, and in your case this restriction is limited to the lines under the hood? I'm going for 550cc and the stock pump/lines (if I can get away with it) for &lt;300whp peak @ 10psi

Thanks for the info!

Flamenco-T

most of the times, it makes it easier to run a 1:1 Regulator with the fuel system with a stainless braided lines than running a barb and hose clamp connector

stan

int3gra

ya how much for the parts, excluding the injectors.

i need all that. lets get a groupbuy started

Flamenco-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by int3gra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya how much for the parts, excluding the injectors.

i need all that. lets get a groupbuy started </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm.....I always give the best prices to honda-tech members... I have many different setup available. I always strongly suggest an aftermarket fuel rail so that you ( or I) don't have to machined the stock fuel rails. I borrowed this pics from arturbo.









IM me for prices. All kit will be assembled, tested and guarantee to work with ANY fuel rail or Fuel pressure regulator. I have the Aeromotive 13109 as well as part of the kit. I am going to try to get Superteg95 to post his setup as well.

stan

Mr. Softee

Listen to flamenco t! He's a cool dude!

Mr. Softee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asterix_2ksi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Curious, what good are braided lines if they don't go all the way back to the pump feed?

If you keep pressures low enough by dropping in injectors slightly larger than what's needed for your hp target you can maintain stock pressures and even run a stock fuel pump up to 320+whp (720cc+). So is it that the stock system hits a limit of flow no matter the pressure on a 300+whp setup, and in your case this restriction is limited to the lines under the hood? I'm going for 550cc and the stock pump/lines (if I can get away with it) for &lt;300whp peak @ 10psi

Thanks for the info!</TD></TR></TABLE>

We felt it would be better to use a walrbo pump, all stainless (less likely to fail, more even flow, no chance of choking), and an aeromotive regulator with 550s for the ultimate street setup. The stock FPR is quite restrictive. Why spend thousands on the motor / turbo setup then only a few hundred on injectors? This is safer and better in every way. Sure running a little lower pressure is nice but as of right now we are bench dynoing. We are going to push the 550s to no more than 90% duty cycle and see if we can leave it at that. If they need to be upgraded we will. But either way its still great security / better performance having these lines, this pump, and this regulator.

SiR Kid

What's the thread size on the outlet for the stock Honda filter, or the part number for the 6an fitting you used there? That's the only part number I don't have/can't look up easily.

Great write up, guys.

gritsak

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the thread size on the outlet for the stock Honda filter, or the part number for the 6an fitting you used there? That's the only part number I don't have/can't look up easily.

Great write up, guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

12x1.25 to -6 is the fitting you'll need...PM Flamenco-T..he can hook you up with it

tegasaurus

ban

Mr. Softee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ban </TD></TR></TABLE>

in soviet russia you BAN MESSAGE BOARDS.